Foot Stool
Table of Contents:
Click a link below to go to that part of the webpage.
You will only receive 1 board to make this project.
You will not receive another board so take your time measuring before cutting!!!
Cutting the Board
When you get your board, you will need to cut 1 top piece and 2 legs pieces.
Set up the Table Saw Sled stops to 12" and 6"
Use the Table Saw and Sled to cut these pieces.
If this is your first time using the Table Saw in this class, see me for help and supervision.
Double-check your measurements, you will not get another board if you cut these incorrectly.
Top Piece
Identify the top piece.
The top will be 12” long. Your board will already be the correct width (7-1/4").
Legs
Identify the 2 legs.
They should each be 6” long.
They will already be the correct width (7-1/4").
Make sure these are the same length.
Support Brace
Mr. K. will cut 2” wide strips for the class. See me for a 2” strip of wood.
DO NOT try cutting a board Width on your own.
Be sure to start your cut from a good (smooth & straight) edge.
Set a stop on the Table Saw Sled to 8" and cut a piece for your support brace.
If the board is too long to cut safety see me.
You will know it is too long if it does not fit on the table saw. If the piece is hitting the fence I will have to cut it down so you can use it.
This is all you need to do with this piece (the brace) for now, put your name on it and keep it in your classroom locker.
Top Handle Cut Out
Use a T-Square to make these measurements.
The T-Squares are hanging on the wall above the classroom lockers on the right side of the classroom.
T-Square
To make The red lines above, Measure 3” down from one long (12”) edge of the board and make a light line with a T-Square across the board.
Light lines are easy to erase or sand off later.
Repeat this for the other side of the board.
See Top Handle Layout Video for further instructions.
To make the Blue lines above, Measure 5” in from both ends and make vertical lines across the board Using a T-Square.
See Top Handle Layout Video for further instructions.
To make The fuchsia line above (in the center of your board)
Measure 3 ⅝” from either Long edge and mark the Line Using a T-Square.
The center of the board is the same distance from each edge.
Take a minute to measure from both edges and verify you have found the center.
See Top Handle Layout Video for further instructions.
To find the center of the hole locations (the blue X’s above) use the Purple center line and the Blue vertical lines drawn in the previous steps.
Drilling Holes in the Top Piece
This is where you will drill Two 1-¼” holes to begin the handle.
You will be using a 1-¼” Hole Saw.
Make sure the drill bit does not hit the metal supports of the clamp!!!
Hold the clamp securely while drilling!!!
Do not hit the metal parts of the clamps.
After drilling the holes have Mr. K. put the scroll saw blade through a hole in the board.
Cut a straight line (the Red lines above) between the top and bottom of the 2 holes.
You will have best results if you do not try to free hand or even things out using the saw.
Sand off any pencil lines after finishing each process. Use the vibrating sander.
Have Mr. K. remove the blade when finished.
Clamp and file the Cutout to even out and areas that need work.
See the "Drill Holes for Handle Video" below for further details.
Cut Out Handle
See the Cut Out Handle Video below for further instructions BEFORE cutting.
See Mr. K. to have him put the Scroll Saw Blade into one of the holes you drilled in the previous step.
File the Handle you just Cut Out
Your cuts may not have turned out perfect. If they are off, you may be able to use a file to even them out.
See the File Handle Cut Out Video below for further instructions.
Round the Edges of the Top Piece using the Router
Round the top edge of the top piece using the router table. There is 1 router table set up for rounding and 1 for straight cuts.
See the Video for instructions and safety on routing.
See the Router Video below for further instructions.
The Legs
Get the Two 6” x 7-1/4” Pieces you cut for your legs.
Find the center of the bottom edge of the boards. It will be at 3 ⅝” from either edge.
Draw a 1 ½” arc from the bottom center using a compass.
Cut relief cuts, then cut this out using a scroll saw.
Sand the arc on the Spindle Sander (round pole that spins and moves up & down).
Repeat this process for the other leg. Do these 1 at a time.
See the Videos below for further instructions.
Drawing Leg Arc
Get a compass and set it to a 1 1/2" radius.
From the bottom edge of both legs, measure in 3-5/8" and make a small mark.
Use the compass to make a 1-1/2" arc from the middle of a bottom edge on both legs.
See the video below for more details.
Cutting Leg Arc
Use the scroll saw to cut out the arcs.
Cut these out 1 at a time.
Cut relief cuts to prevent the blade from breaking.
See the video below for more details.
Sanding Leg Arc
Use the spindle sander to smooth out the cuts made in the previous step..
See the video below for more details.
Leg Hole Locations
Begin by finding the center of the Legs.
To get the fuchsia line above Measure down 3” from the top of the board and make a line across your board with a square.
The green line Measure 3 ⅝” in from an edge and make a Verticle line on your board with a square.
You will use these lines later to get the hole locations.
See the video below for more details.
The holes will be ½” left and right of the Green Vertical center line.
These will be made on the fuchsia line.
Use a 3/16” drill bit for these holes.
The drill press will be labeled: 3/16” & or Drill bit #1 on the post it note.
See the video below for more details.
Drilling Holes in Legs
Drill the marks made in the previous step.
Use a 3/16" drill bit and a drill press.
See the video below for more details.
Leg Taper
To make the taper in the legs, measure in ½” from each edge on the top.
Draw a line from this mark to the bottom corner (of the same side) using a ruler.
Measure and mark the assembly hole locations BEFORE getting these cut. (Previous page)
Mr. K. Will cut these AFTER you mark all the hole locations. See the video below for more details.
Have Mr. K cut the taper on both legs.
Sand off any pencil lines after finishing each process. Use the vibrating sander.
See the video below for more details.
Countersink Holes in Legs
Use a countersink drill bit on the exterior holes to allow the screws to recess into the legs and top slightly.
The exterior holes are the holes you use a 3/16” drill bit for.
(The Holes through the top and through the side of the legs)
Watch the Countersink Video below.
Drill Pilot Hole in Support Brace
IMPORTANT -
Use a ⅛” drill bit to drill the pilot hole in the end of the brace and top of the legs.
The drill press will be labeled:
Foot Stool Drill bit #2 ⅛”.
These holes are ½” in from the edge and in the center of the board which is @ ⅜”.
See the video below for more details.
This is an end view of the support brace ↓
Drilling Pilot Holes in Brace Video
Drill 1 pilot hole in each end of the brace. We will mark the other hole location using the holes you drilled in the side of the legs.
DO NOT try to drive a screw into the wood without a pilot hole, you will crack the wood.
See the video below for more details.
Attach Legs to Support Brace
This may be confusing see me if needed.
Assemble the legs and brace using a handheld drill and screws.
Remember to drill a countersink hole about ⅛” deep on these 2 holes on each board first.
It should be just deep enough to fit the head of a screw.
Use an Impact driver to drive the screws.
Attach the legs to the brace by driving 1 screw into each side.
Set the support on a flat-level surface.
Mark the other screw hole location on the brace using a screw to make a dent in the end of the brace.
Disassemble the base and drill ⅛” Holes in these locations.
Assemble the base with screws and an impact driver. Use the holes you drilled to prevent cracking.
See the video below for more details.
Centering the Legs with the Top Piece
To center the base on the top, begin by aligning the base along the left edge of the top. (See Above)
These directions will make sense when you watch the videos.
See the videos below for more details.
2. Measure the Distance from the edge of the base to the other edge of the top. (See Above)
3. This is how much bigger your top is than the base.
4. To center the base take the measurement from step 2 above and divide it by 2.
Example 2½” ÷ 2 = 1¼”
5. This will be how much space (in inches) should be on each side of the base.
6. Mark this distance on the bottom of the top (above green lines) lightly using a T-Square.
7. Do the same process to center the base vertically across the top.
8. See the video below for more details.
Base Vertical Centering
Align the base in the bottom left corner.
Measure the distance to the top left edge.
3. Divide this distance in half to find how much space should be above and below the base.
4. Draw these 2 lines (above green) lightly across the bottom side of the top using a T-Square.
The base should have equal space from the top and bottom.
It should also have equal space from both ends.
See image above, the measurements above may not work on your project.
Unless you build everything PERFECTLY, you will have to make some adjustments to get your project to fit together.
See the video below for more details.
DO NOT DRILL AT THESE LOCATIONS, THESE MARKS ARE USED TO CENTER THE BASE ON THE TOP. THE NEXT STEPS WILL SHOW WHERE TO MARK AND DRILL THE HOLES.
Hole Locations to Attach the Top to the Base
We will first mark the hole locations on bottom of the top.
The hole locations will be in the center of the Legs (width) and ½” in from the edges.
See the video below for more details.
Drilling Holes to Attach the Top to Base Locations
3. The width of the legs is ¾” so the center will be ⅜” from an edge.
4. Use a 3/16” drill bit to drill through the top of the project.
Make sure to use the correct drill bit when drilling all holes of you can ruin your project.
5. Center your base, mark hole locations and drill the correct size holes to assemble the top to the base.
6. Align the base with the holes you just drilled.
7. Countersink the holes before driving screws.
8. Drill ⅛” holes in the top of the legs that align with the 3/16” holes you just drilled.
9. Sand off any pencil lines after finishing each process. Use the vibrating sander.
See the video below for more details.
Countersink Holes in Top
Use the counter sink bit to ciunter sink the holes on the top of the top piece for screws.
See the video below for more details.
Final Sanding
Sand your project before assembling it using a vibrating palm sander. Try getting rid of pencil marks.
See the video below for more details.
Final Assembly
Assemble all the pieces together to finish constructing your project.
See the video below for more details.
Polyurethane - Clear Coat
CLEAR FINISH APPLICATION: Apply a light clear coat to protect the wood and improve the look.
Do not wipe off clear coat. Use a brush to spread drips to dry areas.
See the video below for more details.
Surface must be dry and free of wax, grease, polish, old finishes in poor condition or any foreign matter.
Wait at least 24 hours before applying Polycrylic® Finish over Minwax® Wood Finish™ Stain.
Stir well before and regularly during use. DO NOT SHAKE.
FINISH APPEARS MILKY IN CAN BUT DRIES CRYSTAL CLEAR.
Apply a thin coat of Polycrylic® Finish with a high-quality synthetic bristle brush.
Apply in one direction with the grain. Do not over-brush.
Let dry at least 2 hours then sand with very fine sandpaper (220 grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion of additional coats.
Do not use steel wool.
Remove all dust.
Apply a second coat. For additional coats, repeat Step 6 before applying.
Three coats are recommended.
After final coat, allow 3 hours before light handling and 24 hours before normal use.
CLEANUP: Use Soap and Water.
CAUTIONS: CONTAINS ALKYL PROPANOLS, ETHYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCOL ETHERS AND 1-METHYL-2-PYRROLIDINONE. CONTAINS MATERIAL THAT MAY CAUSE ADVERSE REPRODUCTIVE EFFECTS AND MAY ADVERSELY AFFECT THE DEVELOPING FETUS BASED ON ANIMAL DATA.
VAPOR HARMFUL. Use only with adequate ventilation. To avoid overexposure, open windows and doors or use other means to ensure fresh air entry during application and drying. If you experience eye watering, headaches, or dizziness, increase fresh air, or wear respiratory protection (NIOSH approved) or leave the area. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. Wash hands after using. Keep container closed when not in use. Do not transfer contents to other containers for storage.
FIRST AID: In case of eye contact, flush thoroughly with large amounts of water for 15 minutes and get medical attention. For skin contact, wash thoroughly with soap and water. In case of respiratory difficulty, provide fresh air and call physician. If swallowed, call Poison Control Center, hospital emergency room, or physician immediately.
DELAYED EFFECTS FROM LONG TERM OVEREXPOSURE. Contains solvents which can cause permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents can be harmful or fatal.
WARNING: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.
DO NOT TAKE INTERNALLY. KEEP OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
CONFORMS TO ASTM D-4236. Contact a physician for more health information.
Turning in to be graded
Have something with your name to identify your project.
Place a piece of tape with your name on it when turning in to be graded.