High Efficiency Devices

High Efficiceinct

My research into high efficiency or as some call them "over unity" devices started with a robot that could not even move itself. If I applied what I know about coils I should be able to get 2 or 3 times more power out of the stepper motors. However my research also found two very promising technologies. One is a motor that is very efficient. It cannot directly power a car, at least not without a continuously variable transmission. However it could power an electric car by charging batteries that then power the car. This would result in an electric car that is actually efficient (most are very inefficient and only move the source of pollution to the power plant). Next I came across a plane that has three times the lift of any previous planes. It looks like it is right out of a science fiction movie but you can buy it and fly it today! I also came across some very high efficiency generators that I will experiment with later.

Types of High Efficiency devices

    • Electric high efficiency motors

    • Electric high efficiency generators

    • Internal combustion Motor improvements

    • External combustion Motor designs

    • Cold Fusion/Gas Plasma Electrolysis

Why the interest in Efficiency? I think it is entirely possible to reduce the cost of transportation, reduce the pollution produced, and MOST OFF ALL REDUCE OUR DEPENDENCE ON FOREIGN OIL. To do this we do not need the so called "over unity" devices but we just need to improve the efficiency of what we have.

High efficiency electric motors

This is a picture of my failed robot project. Even with 4 wheel drive it can barely move itself. It has 4 stepper motors removed from teac 5 1/4 disc drives. One of the stepper motors is shown disassembled to the right. To improve the drive power I first modified the stepping to do half steps with two phases on at the same time.

Normal stepsphase 1, phase 2, phase 3, phase 4, phase 1Half stepsPhase 1, phase 1 and 2, Phase 2, phase 2 and 3phase 3, phase 3 and 4, phase 4, phase 4 and 1phase 1This doubles the power by using 50% more electricity.

The next step would be to replace the bipolar transistor drivers (a ULN2803) with FET's instead. Also I will eliminate the reverse polarity protection diodes. This should double the power by allowing the coils to reverse their magnetic field when power is removed from them. This reversal will cause the coil to first attract the magnet in the rotor then it will push it away with the reversal.

Now for the reality. First the ULN2803 can work in either setup. Second you do not need to eliminate the reverse protection diodes. Instead just add a 12 volt zener in series with them to limit the kickback to 24 volts (12 from the power supply plus 12 from the zener). The power increase is not 100% but only 50%. However that is enough to do the trick. The scope waveforms below show the 4 volt step signal from the computer printer port at top. On the left is with the reverse diodes connected to 12 volts and on the right they are connected through a 12 volt zener to 12 volts. The motor runs much louder in this mode also. I tried two 12 volt zeners in series but it made no noticeable improvement over one 12 volt zener.

The schematic below does not show it but the normal 12 volts on pin 10 goes through a zener to 12 volts. That allows the potential to reach 24 volts. The next question to ask is, can a choke and capacitor be added to use the 24 volt spikes to recharge the 12 volt battery?

Another afterthought is, why do most electric motors only use one side of the electromagnet? Why not turn the coils sideways and use both ends of the electromagnet doubling the output power without using any more electricity?

High efficiency electric generators

Most Electric generators are very inefficient. They use electromagnets so some of the electricity that is produced actually goes into powering of the electromagnet. That design was used because years ago electromagnets were many times more powerfull than conventional magnets. I recently helped a friend fix a generator. His generator had quit so he spent $500 to get it fixed only to have it quit once again. We took a 6 volt battery and connected it to the brushes to power up the electromagnet. After a couple of tries it started working. However a few days later it stopped again. So someone told him to plug in an electric drill and spin it so that it would produce electricity to start the generator. He ended up using his cordless drill to spin his corded drill to start the generator, but it worked!

One type of high efficiency generator is called a unipolar generator. The concept of a unipolar generator is unusual. In a normal generator a magnet passes by a wire to produce electricity. In a basic unipolar generator the wire is a rotating copper plate, but some claim that you can also have the magnet and copper plate both rotate together and still produce electricity. The voltage that is produced is very low but the current can be very high. If this version actually worked then this modification of the unipolar generator could produce electricity and not cause any drag. So the current would be theoretically infinite!

I have not had any success yet in making a high efficiency unipolar electric generator. I have tried building some Unipolar generators using a solid copper covered circuit board and some microwave oven magnets. The output was about .002 volts. What they do not tell you is that the magnet and copper must spin very very fast to produce any real voltage output. Next I tried a pancake coil between microwave oven magnets but also with no real results. How do you wind a pancake coil anyhow? One last attempt at a unipolar generator was to wind the wire around the doughnut shaped magnet. The idea was that the voltage from the turns would add up. It did not. That setup is the one in the picture.

My conclusion is that the "over unity" unipolar generator is another Internet legend. It simply does not work. I have come to believe in chronic Lyme disease, natural antibiotics, magnetic devices that treat arthritis, and a host of other things, but I do not believe that this version of the unipolar generator actually works.

Internal Combustion Improvements

Methods to improve the gas mileage of your car;

    • Better spark plugs (platinum or split fire?)

    • Add magnets to the fuel line.

    • Preheat the gas (electric, exhaust, Hot water?)

    • Add water vapors to the air intake.

    • Separate water into hydrogen and oxygen uning electrolysis then add it.

    • Separate water into hydrogen and oxygen using Gas Plasma Electrolysis (Cold Fusion).

I once owned a car that got about 100 miles to the gallon. The trouble was that it could not go over 25 miles an hour. Today I would call such a car a blessing. But when gas was $.30 and I lived 12 hours from home, it was a curse. I took it to a garage and they charged me about $150 for a new fuel pump and filter to no avail. At that point I was totally out of money (Good used cars cost $500 in those days). A friend suggested rebuilding the carburator so I borrowed $25 and bought a kit to rebuild it. Sure enough it fixed the problem. Now I ask, why did it get such good mileage? It was running on vapors!

These days whenever I buy a used car, now costing around $5,000 I modify it to improve its gas milage. Think about the price of cars for a second. If when new cars were $3,000 and used ones were $500 gas was $.30, now new cars are $30,000 (I have bought a house for less) and used ones are $5,000, shouldn't gas be over $3.00? No one complained when they raised the price of cars through the roof because you could borrow the money to buy it. Maybe they should do the same for gas? Are people really that stupid?

The first things to change on a used car are the spark plugs and air filter. I assume the garage changed the oil and transmission fluid (you might want to ask to make sure). In the old days we used to add electronic ignition too. For spark plugs there are the split fire and the platinum ones. The split fire plugs will do a lot for a year, but because they are made out of cheap metal the will loose their sharp edges and will not hold up. Platinum plugs are IMO your best bet, they last over 36,000 miles or more. In either case replace the spark plugs with some high performance plugs. The air filter is very important. Most cars suck the crud off the road and clog their air filter. Good air is very important for good gas mileage.

The next thing to do is to add a magnet or two to the fuel line as close to the carburator as possible. Well actually they are fuel injectors nowdays. Speaking of injectors don't forget to add fuel injector cleaner, they are likely clogged form years of neglect. The magnets can be purchased from some rip offs on the internet for $30 to $50, or you can go to your hardware store and buy magnets designed for magnetizing/demagnetizing your screwdriver. They already have a nice groove in them to fit around the fuel line. Also on modern cars they have 2 fuel lines. One goes to the injectors and the other takes excess fuel from the injectors and returns it to the gas tank. Make sure you connect the magnets to the right fuel line. With these modifications my Geo Prism gets over 35 miles per gallon on the highway!

However on my Plymouth Grand Caravan the MPG only went from 19.5 to 19.7 when I added the magnets to the metal fuel line next to the injectors. So I moved the magnets a few inches to where the fuel line was made of rubber and it went up to 19.8 MPG the next day. It will take a while to determine the total effect of moving the magnets to the rubber portion of the fuel line. Back when I put in new spark plugs the van went from 18 to 19.5 MPG so new spark plugs were more effective.

The next step is one I have not tried yet. A diesel engine can run off vegetable oil or crankcase oil if it is preheated. The same applies to gasoline engines. If the gas is preheated it will burn better. The secret is the temperature. At 160 to 170 degrees you get vapor lock. So it is best to heat it to 120 to 140 degrees. The heater can be electric, with electric heaters it is easier to control the temperature. The heater can use heat from the engine exhaust, but that can easily overheat the fuel. The heater can use heat from the radiator. That would take it longer to start working but regulating the temperature would be easier. You can buy a preheater for a diesel engine and install it on your car.

Another secret to getting more power and better mileage is to add water mist to the air intake. The water mist would be no worse than driving in a fog. However water when heated expands much faster than fuel. The result is more low end power. Also water will clean the engine, remove carbon buildup, and keep the engine running cooler resulting in a better running engine. To much water can damage the engine and cause the valves to rust. The best mixture is around 12 to 24 percent water. There are many kits out there in the Internet to add water vapors but I have heard that it can be done very inexpensively. After researching the water mist idea, it appears to only add about 1% to the fuel milage, and may not be worth the effort.

The next step would be to separate water into hydrogen and oxygen to use that to improve your gas mileage. I have read that some have used the hydrogen from water to completely power their car. This can be very expensive. First it takes a lot of electricity to produce the hydrogen, it can take as much as all of the power that will be produced by burning it! In fact I have seen one converter on the Internet that used 40 volts (At several hundred amps) across carbon rods that almost took more power to operate than it produced! The better converters seem to use aluminum (you need to replace it periodically) or other metals as the rods in the water to make the hydrogen. The next problem is that if you do not use gasoline you no longer have a lubricant for the valve heads and exhaust system. They will have to be replaced with stainless steel valves and exhaust to prevent them from quickly rusting out. There is someone selling a water electrolysizer on Ebay for $99! I might buy one and test it out.

There are several methods to consider in seperating the hydrogen from the water. Do you use AC, DC or High Voltage? Do you use Stainless, Copper, Zinc, Carbon, Aluminum, tungsten, platinum, or Titanium Rods or Plates? Do you go with no electrolyte, tap water, distilled water, salt, potassium or any of a dozen others? I have started research and my preliminary findings are that AC produces much more hydrogen than DC. That was a real shock to me, and seems to contradict all of my training. So far the frequency of the AC has made little difference, other than my frequency generator gets out of balance at one end of the dial.

What is called Browns gas appears to be just another method of seperating water into hydrogen and oxygen. They use a second stage to help remove any water vapors from the gas. That gives a purer gas so it is better for welding or melting metals. Information on how the second stage works is hard to find.

I may have figured out how the seperator works. I was testing the effect of magnets on electrolysis and although the hydrogen does not appear to react to a magnetic field, the oxygen does strange things in the presence of a magnetic field. I have taken several pictures of it but even with a black background it is barely visible. When the magnet is placed next to the oxygen wire the production of oxygen appears to slow down, but above and below the magnet the oxygen is produced in abundance and travels along the lines of flux towards the middle of the jar. In fact, if I move the magnet to the far side of the jar the oxygen comes flying across the jar to get to the magnet! The picture does not do the effect justice. How can a gas react to a magnetic field?

Cold Fusion or Gas Plasma Electrolysis

What is called Cold Fusion is some sort of high voltage seperator that produces mostly steam and heat. There is no proof that any sort of Nuclear Fusion actually takes place. It is better to call it "gas plasma electrolysis". By studing the heat produced they can show an over unity effect. They use a tungsten rod on the negative side and ramp slowly up to between 200 and 300 volts DC. The negative rod is just barely in the water or is insulated except for a short length. The ramp up is to reach a point where the negative rod is covered with a layer of hydrogen atoms. The hydrogen atoms will essentially form a plasma and insulate the rod thus reducing the current drawn. When the polarity and voltage is correct the short rod will glow and produce lots of heat. For more information search for JLN labs and CFR for Cold Fusion Reactor.

What they seem to be missing in studying just the overunity of the heat that is produced is the tremendous overunity of Hydrogen that is produced. Some claim 80 times more hydrogen is produced than what the same amount of electricity should produce. I can see it now. Plasma Electrolysis can be used to heat your house. The Hydrogen produced can run a generator to provide electricity. Now you have an energy free house, no need for gas or electricity! Add a satellite dish and a cell phone and you are completely wireless! Is it a dream come true, or a cruel hoax? I will be conducting more experiments. I am also considering combining two devices and calling it a "resonant cold fusion reactor". You might eventually be able to add a DC to DC converter to step the 12 volts in your car up to 200 to 300 volts and run a "plasma electrolysis" generator in yout car to make hydrogen as you drive.

So far I have tried low voltage high frequency pulses on the electrolysis rods. Then I tried a high power electromagnet powered by a 1000 watt amplifier. When I would turn the knobs on the frequency generator the aparatus would jump from the magnetic field. Then I tried first one then two ultrasonic transducers. So far I have determined that the water resonates at 25, 30 and 35 Kc with two transducers. If you can hear it, the sound is similar to fingernails scratching on a chalkboard. But there are two problems. The resonant frequency increases with the water temperature, and decreases with water impurities. However electrolysis produces impurities and makes lots of them whenever it runs, it also heats up the water. I have also tried rods made from stainless steel, carbon, copper, and silver. The only interesting thing there is that if the negative rod is barely in the water, it will produce huge hydrogen bubbles. Sometimes they reach 1/2 inch in diameter before they pop.

My Idea was to combine sonoluminesance and gas plasma electrolysis into the same device. This is next to impossible. First both of these devices are next to impossible to get to work. It takes lots of trials and then it is still a long shot. But to get both to work at the same time is really impossible. So for now I have given up on this project. Also if you could get this to work there is the real danger of the hydrogen blowing up.