Monster Mash

Back when I was merely an Evil Lab Assistant, I built the Yarmando Mash-Up Sock out of my favorite techniques. Over time, that pattern has grown and mutated, and now I present it in its current, more monstrous form.

Monster Mash features a better-fitting toe than the original Mash-Up, and a different short row heel using the "twin stitch" method from Fish Lips Kiss Heel. Gussets are added to improve the overall fit.

Targets

• • Socks are better with a firm fabric, so consider working with a smaller needle to get a tighter gauge than the yarn band suggests.

Weapons

• • Desirable yarn. It should not pull apart easily when tugged.

  • Long circular needle in appropriate size for the yarn. Cable should be at least 32 inches long. Knit Picks, ChiaoGoo, and Addi Turbos have soft, flexible cables and smooth joins.

  • Stitch markers; coil-less safety pin type is recommended.

Special Skills

• • Magic Loop.

  • Turkish Cast-On.

  • Various Increase Methods.

  • M1L (make 1 left): Yarnover. In the next round, twist the yarnover by knitting through the back loop.

    • M1R (make 1 right): Yarnover. In the next round, twist the yarnover by working as k-twist.

    • k-twist: Slip yarnover stitch knitwise onto the right needle, changing its mount. Slip the stitch back to the left needle purlwise; the front leg of the stitch now lies in back of the needle while the back leg of the stitch comes down the front of the needle. Knit the back leg like it's a normal stitch, which further twists it to the right.

    • KRL (knit right loop): make a new knit stitch in the stitch below the 1st stitch on the left needle

    • PRL (purl right loop): make a new purl stitch in the stitch below the 1st stitch on the right needle.

Knitting the Toe

Begin with your favorite toe-creation method. If you don't have one, try this.

• • Start your Turkish Cast-on with a 12" tail hanging behind.

  • Wrap the yarn until you have 1/2 - 3/4 inch of wraps.

  • Knit across the stitches on your "top" needle, keeping stitches snug on the "bottom" needle.

  • Knit round with tail and working yarn held together.

  • Drop tail, and knit one round working one stitch in each loop.

Toe Increases

• • Knit 2, YO, knit until 2 stitches remain on that side, YO, knit 2. Repeat for other side.

  • Knit 2, twist yarnover as for M1L, knit to next yarnover, twist for M1R, knit 2. Repeat for other side.

Repeat the last two rounds until toe is about 1 inch long.

• • Knit 2, YO, knit until 2 stitches remain on that side, YO, knit 2. Repeat for other side.

  • Knit round, twisting the yarnovers.

  • Knit round plain.

Repeat the last three rounds until your toe is the right circumference. I find that 8.5 inches around is a good target, or about 12% less than the circumference of the intended wearer's foot.

Turning the Heel

The hourglass heel is worked in short rows over the heel stitches only.

• • Knit to 2 stitches before marker. KRL, slip new st to left needle, turn.

  • Purl to 2 stitches before end of heel stitches. Slip 1, PRL, slip the doubled stitch to left needle, turn.

  • Knit to 1 stitch before doubled stitch. KRL, slip new st to left needle, turn.

  • Purl to 1 stitch before doubled stitch. Slip 1, PRL, slip the doubled stitch to left needle, turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until you have the designated number of stitches remaining unworked between doubled stitches.

The Neck of the Hourglass

• • Knit to doubled stitch. Place marker. Knit to end of heel stitches, working each doubled stitch together as a single stitch. Make a new doubled knit stitch in the last stitch before marker, turn.

  • Keep doubled stitch snug. Purl across heel stitches to doubled stitch. Place marker. Purl to end of heel stitches, working doubled stitches together as single stitches. Make new doubled purl stitch in last heel stitch, turn.

The Hourglass Widens

• • Keep doubled stitch snug. Knit to 2nd "neck" marker and remove it. Make doubled knit stitch, turn.

  • Purl to remaining "neck" marker and remove it. Make doubled purl stitch, turn.

  • Knit to doubled stitch, knit it, double the next stitch, turn.

  • Purl to doubled stitch, purl it, double the next stitch, turn.

Repeat the last two rows until 2 doubled stitches remain at each end of heel.

Resume knitting in the round, working doubled stitches together as single when you encounter them.

Work 1-2 rounds plain, ending at the center of the heel stitches.

Gusset Decreases

Set-up for decreases:

• • Transfer first heel stitch to instep needle so it sits alongside gusset stitches.

  • Move the end-of-heel marker one stitch to the right.

Knit to marker, SSK. Continue knitting to last 2 stitches on instep side. K2tog.

Knit 2 rounds plain.

Continue decreasing every third round until you're back to the original circumference.

Cuff

Work the leg of your sock in whatever pattern strikes your fancy. A simple ribbing is always a good choice. The length is completely up to you.

Stretchy Bind-Off

Nothing ruins your work on a pair of socks like binding off too tightly. There are a few techniques you can use to make sure socks aren't too tight at the top; Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn bind-off and Jeny's Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off are common solutions.

This one is easy, fast, and elastic. Work two stitches in pattern, then slide them both back over to the left needle and knit them together through the back loops. Work the next stitch, slide the two active stitches back to the left hand needle and knit them together through the back loop. Continue until finished.

Evil Geniuses gloat.

Break yarn, weave in the ends, and laugh your Evil Genius laugh as you ponder the masterpiece of your perfect sock creation.

Now clone it, so you have a pair.

Evil Geniuses credit their muses.

Yarmando licenses "Mastermind" under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 License. Feel free to use for non-commercial purposes, and if you adapt it, please give credit. Yarmando would like to give credit to the others who inspired this pattern.