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Zebrawood Fill Font Free Download
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Zebrawood font is a joint work of the typeface designers K.B. Chansler, C. Crossgrove and C. Twombly, who also designed Rosewood, Ponderose and Pepperwood together. Like its relatives, Zebrawood also displays a kind of Wild West character. Its style can be traced back to the Toscanienne typefaces which appeared in advertisements and on signs at the end of the 19th century. Typical of this capital alphabet are the split serifs and robust base forms, which emphasize the typeface's decorative character. Zebrawood is, like Rosewood and Schwennel, meant as a bicolor font, meaning that the weight Zebrawood fill complements the inner spaces of Zebrawood regular. When used carefully in headlines, Zebrawood font will be sure to attract attention.
" The wood is difficult to dry because of the alternate hard and soft grain and is liable to distortion. . . . but it is difficult to obtain a smooth finish because of the nature of the grain. Care is required in gluing and a clear filler should be used . . ."
or in English, I take this to mean the dark vs light wood has distinctly different densities. Filler, as you describe, pertains to pore fillers. In a nutshell, sand the surface dead flat. Apply pore filler, remove excess. This fills pores and allows the surface to be flat, sans divots. Apply finish.
For more, search pore fillers, or consult the bevy of lit out there. I think Flexners chapter on fillers in Understanding Wood Finishing is adept at covering the ins and outs of filling with water based, oil based, and even filling with the finish itself (which he doesn't seem to be a fan of).
First, sand in the Liberon with 220-grit, creating a slurry that fills the pores - it'll take about 10 or 15 minutes per surface. Then carefully wipe away all remaining slurry with a clean cotton cloth. Don't start wiping too soon, or you'll drag the slurry out of the pores.
The final coat is sanded-in with 400-grit wet & dry sandpaper, and the gummy, almost-dry, slurry wiped off with clean cotton rags until ALL haze is gone. TO thoroughly remove the slurry from corners, try wrapping the rag around a smooth stick - maybe you can borrow an "orange stick" from a friend who takes good care of their cuticles.
If you're satisfied with the sheen, let the final coat cure for about a week, and apply a coat of Liberon's Black Bison wax, let it sit for 5 or 10 minutes, and buff it out with a clean cotton cloth (an old 100% cotton t-shirt works really well). You can buy Black Bison plain or tinted - I'll leave that decision to you. I don't wait for the wax to haze over as is customary when, say, waxing a car.
If, after doing this, you aren't completely satisfied with the sheen, you can alter it to your liking: If it's not quite shiny enough, step up the the next highest grit of sandpaper and apply another coat of liberon (after wiping off the wax with a rag wetted with naphtha); if it's too glossy, you can apply a coat of wax using 0000 steel wool.
Don't forget to properly dispose of any rags or steel wool that are saturated with Liberon (or any other) oil - I'd hate for the subject of your next post to be about your workshop burning to the ground because of spontaneous combustion!
I don't have a local supply of Liberon oil (though I've ordered some for a future project). Instead, I used pure tung oil cut 50/50 with mineral spirits for the first two coats, and then straight tung oil for the final coat, finishing as you coached.
I have not tried Liberon but sounds appealing, especially with the baby butt smooth finish described and its ease of application. But...my favorite is a coat of tung oil followed by a minimum 4 coats of shellac, although it has a slight learning curb. As a note: I like to prefinish the inside of the box first, before glue up. It makes it much easier rather than try to get those inside corners afterwards.
As a filler, I have been experimenting with epoxy. I have been using saw dust from different types of wood to "color" the epoxy-it is compatible with just about every finish out there, you don't have to worry about being a water based or oil based filler. Smear it on the surface pressing it down into the wood's pores, wait 10 minutes and sand. This works well on large celled wood. With zebrawood my knee jerk reaction may be to use ebony saw dust, but without seeing the wood, grain, color, it is difficult to decide. An alternative would be to use walnut saw dust to bring hints of the color from the boxe's body to the top.
Good choice in woods, isn't that Zebrawood neat? I've just recently finished a Zebrawood humidor myself. For the humidor I was looking for that deep gloss look, so a filled, closed-pore finish was required for me. If you don't want a really flat surface you probably don't "have" to fill. I think I would, because even if you didn't want a glossy look, you could rub your finish down to satin and it would look more even if you filled. For me, I really didn't want to color the pores as Paul talked about, I liked the color of the wood on it's own, so I wanted a clear filler. I used Crystalac, a water based filler, which I got over at Homestead finishing, Jeff Jewitt's site, and it worked great. Wipe on, squeegee for a second to push it into the pores, and burlap it off. I did two applications. Good stuff. Hope you find what you're looking for! Erich
Zebrano and walnut can end up looking like the example below. Personally, I'd have prefered the zebrano grain in the drawer fronts to run vertically, possibly in the form of veneer with a cross banding and stringing of some sort around the edge to pick out the form, but this is the look the customer wanted, chose, and was willing to pay for-- the latter being the primary consideration, ha, ha..
Anyway, the finish is standard oil based alkyd varnish, in this case Pratt & Lambert 38 gloss for a base coat for clarity,and satin to finish. The walnut was water based dye prior to varnishing, and the top of the cabinets grain filled and the varnish applied with a spray gun.
Zebrano is certainly a bit open grained and wee bit coarse, but not overly so in my experience, so I've never found it strictly necessary to fill the grain with a proprietary grain filler-- and because of the decidedly stripey nature of the grain you'd probably be best to select a clear or neutral coloured grain filler if you chose to go that route.
Here I simply sprayed on (if I recall correctly) three coats of varnish the same as I did for the cabinets. A brush would do it too, and so would wiping on ten or so coats of thinned out varnish. Each method will work to fill the grain, and more importantly create a fairly substantial barrier to both moisture ingress and and actual physical damage, but no film finish is immune to either cause of damage in the long term. Because the pores aren't too deep and marked in zebrano, there shouldn't be too much of a problem with the varnish sinking into the pores causing a somewhat uneven grain hugging look. Slainte.
's get placed here -->XReplies SteveSchoene |Jul 29, 2014 03:41pm |#1There are certainly pore fillers that will do this task. Sherwin Williams makes a good one, but only in the gallon size. The one most easily found is likely to be Behlen Por-O-Pak. There are even some transparent pore fillers, such as one by Crystalac that could work, though may take several applications since it shrinks quite a bit as it dries. Be sure to follow directions on these pore fillers, though in general I would alway allow more time than recommended before overcoating with a topcoat.
I second what SteveSchoene suggests. Using Pore filler per the manufacturer's instructions (generally to flood it on and work it into the wood, then wipe off all remaining on the surface with a coarse rag after the filler/solvent mixture has partially dried to a "leathery" appearance) will fill any open-pored wood to a perfectly smooth appearance, ready to be finished. Under a film of finish, there will be no dimpling of the final surface and such woods can be very beautiful finished this way.
But, I recommend embracing the open-pore look of such wood. It's part of the beauty of the species which are often finished in a way to enhance that beauty. Your finish looks bad because it is thick and has piled up around the edges of the pores and grain.
Your tung oil method will work if applied in very thin coats and wiped completely off the surface after allowing to penetrate for a while. Make sure to get all the residual off and give it a day or more to cure before the next application.
We all like different things about the wood we work with. My wife loves zebrawood so I spend considerable time with it. I have to agree with her on one thing, the pores add character.
But, one thing I've had some success with is filling the pores only with a glue syringe and water-based urethane. It's time-consuming, especially waiting for the urethane to dry but it doesn't discolor the wood.
It'll bulge a little, like an asphalt patch on a road, but that's easily remedied.
Hope this helps. 152ee80cbc
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