When spare time permits, I like to take on a variety of wood working projects.It is fun to build useful things, great to learn new techniques, and thereis always more to do in the physical world. I have built many things, thispage has a poorly organized set of highlights. The embedded images are fullresolution (sorry) so you can "open image in a new tab" to see the fullresolution if you'd like.
Family DIY treehouse/sandbox/slide is finally done-for-now. Kid tested and approved!It features a nice curved lamination beam made out of resawing + regluing some redwood beams,custom windows, and many other features.[tweet].
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You don't have to be an expert woodworker or own specialty tools to take on one of these 40 outdoor woodworking projects for beginners. Every one of the simple projects included here features step-by-step plans and tips for success.
This raised patio planter is designed to make your patio or deck gardening much easier. Instead of filling it with dirt and planting each flower or plant individually, you simply set pre-potted plants right into the planter. Build one for your outdoor space with these plans.
Its Get Woodworking Week and time to think about the things that encourage others to get started with woodworking. I think working with hand tools can be a great place and a terrible place to start. To walk this fine line and land on the happy side of it, one needs to be VERY specific about what they are building and have a clear plan in mind before you pick up a tool or cut any wood. One probably also needs to turn off the Internet and just dive in.
The specifics project you choose will go a long way to ensuring your success but more importantly you desire to return to woodworking and challenge yourself with another project. This goes doubly when talking about using hand tools to build this first project. There are a few things you should consider in choosing this project.
Building a box will keep the stock costs down and the whole thing feels more approachable. But with small size comes higher scrutiny and you will find there is much less room for forgiveness in sloppy joinery. I actually think boxes are some of the more complex projects for this reason. Plus there is something to be learned from fitting together larger pieces and ensuring they stay square or match up to flanking joints. So think about bedside table sized projects. They keep the investment in materials and time down but also teach you something about making furniture sized parts and joining them together that would be lost on really small projects.
These above concessions will severely limit what you build in your first trip out but that is the point. At the same time there are infinite variations that can come from this kind of blank slate project that allow for creative license. If not during this first build, perhaps on the second or third build where you opt to add in some complexity. With these in mind I suggest the following projects.
This could be as simple as a dovetailed box that hangs on the wall or something that uses through tenons, miters, or even just dados and rabbets. It will teach you to plane stock flat and square and possibly to glue up panels. It will teach you to make a box that is square and again will allow you to focus on single joint, repeated at least 4 times.
In the end woodworking all comes down to a simple series a steps that add up to a finished project. I think with a little planning you can break even the most complex project down to these simple steps and everything looks much easier from that granular level. For the beginner the goal should be to break the project down into these simple tasks and remove as many variables as possible. eg: using only 1 type of joint.
Every bid starts with materials, and I have two methods for estimating how much wood I will need for a given project. The quick and dirty method involves getting an approximate total board foot count for the entire project and adding 20% as a buffer for waste, error and selectivity. Then I head to the lumber yard and pick up the material based on that calculation. The risks you run here are being stuck with less than ideal stock and possibly having to make a second trip to get more wood. So this one could very well bite you in the butt!
Regardless of which method you choose, both will yield a materials cost. I usually take that number and add 10% to cover any miscellaneous costs: extra boards, gas money, your time at the lumber yard, etc.
In general, I would take 50% up front, and 50% upon delivery. That would give me enough to cover my materials and at least part of my labor. And I can say that fortunately, I never had a customer refuse the finished product. But if they ever did, at least I had the 50% initial payment AND the piece of furniture. :)
You have a great point, I am new to woodworking and do it as a side job because I am full time at a university. I hate working normal jobs and woodworking is my passion. I did as well charge little to nothing for my projects because they were for family friends and they loved the pieces and never complained so I have now started to charge normal rates and was surprised to see that people will gladly pay for it if the work is done well. I hope to build up this career and squire more tools as I am using my friends so hopefully I can put my woodworking profits to new tools and increase my work Load.
What worked for getting your business started? Did you run adds, did you get any financial backing from any investors to help with the start up coasts, Or did you just start out small and let word of mouth help you and slowly build up from there.
nice article. One of the hardest things to do is price your work, not matter what product you sell. I always like hearing how people price there work. I think even if we are not selling our stuff, being able to put a value on whatever we make helps us grow. It is a practice that we should all use.
I ended up building a giant LED stopwatch/timer for my shop. Everything gets timed (pulling lumber, cutting, stacking, assembly, etc). Since my stuff is repeatable (I make the same door over and over, for example), I only need to do the timings once.
My materials markup is higher (in the 30% range). It takes a surprising amount of time to drive to the lumber yard, pick good boards, load up the car, bring it home, stack it, etc. The larger markup also gives me a bigger buffer before I have to raise prices (my lumber costs recently went up 5%).
At this point, I am not selling any of my work for profit. I usually just keep track of materials cost and then get reimbursed in the end. Then again, I am only doing this as a hobby. It usually comes down to somebody (friend or family member) seeing something that I have made for my wife or for myself, and then asking if I can do something similar for them. I enjoy the craft, so I am willing to do it as long as I have the skills to complete the project and they are willing to cover the cost of materials.
I use a very similar method, I typically charge time and materials. At the yard where I buy my lumber, most of the hardwoods comes in 10 ft lengths. I calculate my materials based on this 10ft length and a sketch of my cut sheet laid out on 10 ft sections. At the yard I can be sure that the boards I select will fit my design with no questions.
I always leave the stacked lumber in better shape than when I begin picking through it. This has afforded me the opportunity to dig through 500 bd ft of walnut when I only need 50. I always add 20% to allow for the cost of gas, taxes and my time picking through the lumber. You could also include this process in your hourly quote.
Which pieces do you find are worth their time? I assume the bigger the project and less intricate the more worthwhile. Going too complicated is bound to waste time in construction and planning. I try to make fairly simple elegant pieces that will be easy to refinish and long lasting using solid wood. It seems like too many of the store bought items are made of plywood and thin veneers that will not hold the tests of time.
I will say that keeping very detailed records of time spent helps to keep you focused as well. When I first started, I tended to blow a lot of time doing non-productive things, but that has changed now that I keep up with time spent better.
I am a pyrographic (wood burner) and scroll artist. I have to admit that pricing is one of the most difficult aspects of running my business, Project Woodworks. When I first started, I often compared my woodwork to
I too am a hobbyist and get people asking what I would charge to make them a similar piece. It did with the end grain cutting boards.
I bought Cutlist Plus and it helps a lot to figure out how to charge and it also helps with layout.
Very well said! People fail to adjust their prices as their skill goes up. This results in having to produce more pieces to achieve the same profitability. I always recommend to price based on the retail shop your client is most likely to compare your work to, then mark it up from there to set the expectation that hand-made is a premium quality, not a discount one!
Overhead is the total annual cost of our overhead expenses divided my the number of man hours our crews work in a year. We then take that hourly overhead cost and multiply it by the estimated number of man hours in a job.
While our overhead is certainly much more than yours, our company operated for almost 10 years before we finally broke down and calculated it. We were shocked by how high it was and how much we were underestimating it before. Now we re-calculate it every year.
3. You can compare to the competition. In WWing, compare to factory-made pieces for the low end and similar custom pieces (maybe at a gallery) for the high end. Decide where in-between the two you fit.
Now you know what you have to realize on each of the 40 hours you spend in the shop each week. Each job you accept will consume some of the 40 hours and that must factor into your estimate for that job. Include the time for driving and picking the lumber but not the gas. 152ee80cbc
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