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Follow these ten basic steps to start your first garden

Dig into the new gardening adventure with this step-by-step guide to help you make the most of the landscape. The creation of a garden is one of the most lucrative things you can do to destroy plants or create a vegetable garden (or both) and everyone can benefit from getting their dirty hands a little bit, but if you are new to the gardening, it is hard to know where to start. However, it should not be complicated, when we divide our project into controlled steps, you can lighten your gardening at your own pace and soon see the rewards of your efforts with your beautiful views, delicious flavors, and colored flowers these steps will help you start from scratch, but if you have something specific, you can also use the garden plan to guide your design.

1. Let's consider what we grow.

Do you want to grow a garden? Vanilla? Garden? If you choose vegetables and herbs to make donations to the table, grow vegetables and herbs that your family will eat or wish to try if you want to spend on their nature, colour and fragrance, decide whether you want to spend most of the summer each year, but it needs to be replanted every spring, or it's shorter every year, but year after year, year after year. Every garden, even a combination, creates an amazing garden, but it has different maintenance needs. A little bit of advice: start small until you know what stage you're in.

2. Choose the best place in the garden

Almost all vegetables and many types of flowering plants require 6-8 hours of full sun every day. So you have to watch your farm all day to find out which places get full sun against partial or full shade. Don't worry if your farm is mostly shady: you won't be able to grow tomatoes in the shade, but many other plants (such as hostas and ferns outdoors) will simply do well. Check plant days or ask the staff at your local garden center to help you understand how much sun a plant needs.

If possible, choose a relatively flat place for your garden because it is more difficult, time-consuming, and possibly expensive to deal with a sloping garden. And make sure your new garden has easy access to a water source.

3. Clear the Earth

Get rid of the weed and the shit where you plan to plant it. If you need quick results (if it's already spring and you want Vegas this summer), stop. Cut it under Spide's layer, cut it into sections to make it easier to remove, and then put it on your compost pile to decompose. For a longer-term project, it is easier to use the Lasanya horticulture method: cover your future garden with five pages of newspapers; double that amount if your lawn is Bermudian or St. John's. Augustine. Distribute a three-inch layer of compost (or a combination of pottery and topsoil) in the paper and wait. It'll take about four months to spread the compost and paper. But if you start in the fall, by spring you'll have a bed ready to land without grass, weed, and rich soil.

4 Test and improve your soil

To learn more about your soil, a soil test conducted through your co-operative office will lead you to the process: How much soil will you send from any parts of the park and the best time to get samples?

Residential soil almost always needs a special push in new construction, where surface soil may have been stripped of it, as well as a decrease in basic plant nutrients. Soil drainage may also be weak or often narrow: add organic material that adds a layer of 2 to 3 inches of rotting compost, rotting leaves, dry grass clippings, or old compost to the soil when digging or even a new bed.It leaves organic matter on the surface and finally decomposes into humus (organic matter). Earthworms  do most of the work by mixing humus  with  subsoil. 

5. Prepare a planting bed

Loosening the soil in a new bed before sowing or planting will make it easier for the roots to grow  and give you access to the water and nutrients you need. There are two methods: cultivating with a mechanical device such as a rotary tiller, or digging by hand. The first  is a good way to do it if you need to mix a lot of changes. However, overdoing is easy and ultimately damages the soil structure. Digging is more practical to prepare a small bed. In any case, move the soil only when it is moist enough to form a loose ball with a fist, but when it is dropped it is dry enough to fall apart. If the soil is too dry, it will be difficult to dig, and if the soil is too moist, it can damage the soil structure. Gently rotate the top 68 inches of soil using a spade or spade fork while mixing  the organic matter from step 4. (Walking on the prepared bed will harden the soil, so temporarily lay  plywood  to evenly distribute your weight.)

6. Choose your plant 

 Some people peruse the catalog for months. Others go to the gardening center and buy something that excites them. Either way will work, as long as you choose the right plants for your climate, soil and sunlight. You can also search the internet for the plants you want to buy. Here are some easy-to-grow plants for beginners. 

Annuals: Calendula, Cosmos, Geranium, Impatiens, Marigold, Sunflower, Zinnia , Perennials: Black-eyed Susan, Licorice, Lamb's Ear, Pansies, Phlox, Purple Cornflower, Russian Sage ,Vegetables: cucumber, lettuce, pepper, tomato

7. Start planting 

 Some plants, such as pansies and kale, withstand low temperatures and can be planted in the fall and late winter. Tomatoes and most annual flowers, on the other hand, prefer warm temperatures, so  plant them after all the dangers of frost have disappeared. Mid-spring and autumn are good times to plant perennials.  Many annuals are easily grown from seeds sown directly in the garden. Be sure to read the seed packet for  planting time, depth and spacing. If you're an adventurous beginner, get off to a good start during the growing season by sowing seeds indoors a few weeks before the last frost day. Containers or containers specifically designed  for seedlings and potting compost are available at the Gardening Center. Follow the instructions in the seed packet  and place it on a sunny window or under a crow light if you don't have a seat by the window. Keep the seeds and seedlings moist. However, do not get it wet. It can rot. An easier way to get started in your garden is to buy seedlings or seedlings called  transplants. Dig a hole in the prepared bed according to the instructions on the label. Push the plant up from below and remove it from the container. When the roots have grown into large balls (called root bounds), use an old fork or finger to loosen the outer roots before inserting them into the hole. Cut down the soil  around the roots and soak in water.

8. Water at the right time 

 Seedlings should never be dry, so water them daily. It rejuvenates as the plant grows taller. Grafts also need to be watered frequently (every other day or so) until  roots are established. After that, how often you need to water depends on the soil, water and rainfall, but once a week is a good  start. Clay soil dries slower than sandy soil, so you don't need to water it  often. Sunny and windy conditions dry the soil faster than cool cloudy weather. Still not sure? Feel the ground 34 inches below the surface. When it's dry, it's time to water it. Pour slowly and deeply to allow the water to penetrate rather than flow out. Water early in the morning to minimize evaporation.

9. Protect your garden with mulch 

 Cover the soil with a few inches of mulch to prevent weeds and moisture. It does not require frequent watering and keeps the soil out of the sun to prevent weed seeds from germinating. Choose from a  variety of mulch, each with its own unique advantages, such as shredded bark, straw, and river rocks. Organic mulches such as bark, compost, and cocoa bean husks (which, by the way, smell good) nourish the soil as it breaks down. For borders with vegetable fields and annuals, choose a mulch that will break in a few months. For perennials, use long-lasting mulches such as bark chips.

10. Maintain your garden regularly 

 As your garden begins to grow, help it reach its full potential by catching up with gardening. Water the plants before they die. Pull weeds before sowing. Get rid of dead, dying and sick plants. Exile destructive insects by picking them from plants and dropping them in a bucket of  water (such as the five-spotted hawk moth), driving them away, or spraying them on  insecticidal soap purchased from a gardening center. Support tall plants (such as tomatoes) with  trellis, stakes, or tents. Also, harvest the vegetables as soon as they are ready. And don't forget to stop and smell  whatever you are growing.