I talk to a lot of bath and shower folks in my area, what they are doing is using durock on the walls, deck mud base, kerdi drain, and kerdi on the floor and 12 to 18 inches up the walls. They kerdi the niches also.
MAkes you wonder about Schluter though...we know the positives but to say you can hang DW on a ceiling and then kerdi on that and then BIGAZZ tiles if wanted on that...on a ceiling??? I don't think I could sleep at night but maybe they know something we don't!
Here in Kansas the sales commission is 6 percent.The listing agent gets three percent and the selling agent gets 3 percent.(when the home gets listed in the MLS system).I will be selling the house I live in at some point and I would like to sell the house myself and get both sides of the commission.This would mean keeping it out of the MLS system, which is risky because I will be the only one showing the house.I would just have a For Sale By Owner sign in the yard.I think I'll probably start out FSBO and if I'm not getting anywhere in a month or two I'll put it in the MLS system.Good luck!^^^^^^
You're gonna hate this but thats wrong! I started another thread somewhere else about this topic too...over at JLC and John Bridges forums too..and David had THE best answer I've heard to date.
It DOES work on drywall but it should be used on CBU's (sorry) cuz thinset is a cement product not meant to be put on paper really (drywall)..you "can" and I "did" but I won't ever again. If there is a leak behind the drywall...say from a pinhole in a supply line...or where ever...the drywall will turn to mush behind the Kerdi. I'm also concerned about thinsetting real heavy tile to a ceiling and just the kerdi stuck to a paper backing holding it. May be unfounded but it does concern me.
Also...drywall in shower/wet areas is not to "code" in a lot of places.
doesn't matter though once you realize what I said above...its to keep moisture and mildew that forms out...as well as leaks from the inside of the shower.>>>I'll use it if it definitely makes for a better job, or if it makes my life easier.
yeh...she spends alot of time playing tennis...lol.You forget, Real Estate right now is pretty bad so no..she's FAR from raking it in.
We live off of previous house sale profits. Her money has always been gravey.
You forget...I work on my own houses then sell em'. Its one of the "big" perks. Unfortunatly or fortunatly depending on how you look at it my puter room is ten feet from where I'm currently working...ugh.
Nice thing too about working on your own house to make money is your hours are your own...I can start at 4 A.M which I actually do a lot of the time..and quit for an hour or two if I want then start back up and work in the evenings....my time is my own...no one to answer to. I can't think of a better working money making enviorment and it took me almost thirty years to get to this point. It was always the plan from the get go. Course when I start a huge project like this I can't be this lax...wayyyyyyyyy too much to do but I'm wrapping this house up and selling it in less than a year and on to the next venture : )
oh yeh...and I do still think about the San Juan islands over there..too bad theres no tennis for Katrina...really. I searched the web. Seems everywhere I'd love to move hasn't enough tennis for Katrina.
I wish there wasn't "so much" tennis around here. More tennis places than Home Depots..lol.
Then we looked in Northern Calif..and bid on land in Sebastopol before this house but our offer wasn't accepted..I look there currently on line and its more expensive than Long Island,,,ugh.
Friggin' tennis.... Makes for such limitations...lol
My Kerdi job was sitting about two weeks with some drastic weather changes in the room due to the cold and then my bullet heater over and over(its still unheated) FWTW. Right before I tiled I filled the pan right up to the brim (5"ish) and left it most of the day with the drain plugged. Not one dropped leaked (the ceiling's open below). For whatever thats worth...Was worth a lot to me!
I also did a bunch of test pieces. One where I wrapped a chunk of sheetrock with Kerdi in thinset, Dropped it in my cleaning water bucket for days...cut it open..dry as a bone. I did a test on Luan as well...not that you'd be kerdi'ing luan..but I did on the curve I made on my footstool and thats against luan's recommendations. Worked fine "as long as you rough up the luan with a 36 grit sandpaper" otherwise the thinset and kerdi won't hold as well I found..mostly due to the mill haze I think.
Nothing scientific, but I did a few test using different thinsets, dry set, lightly modified, heavily modified, etc......then tried to pull the Kerdi off the cement board.They all adhered pretty well, the worst that happened is the spun fleece delaminated from Kerdi's polyethylene core, but the poly itself was pretty tough to tear.So yeah, I feel confident Kerdi can handle a bit of joint movement.Depending on the particular structure, at some joints I also don't thinset the Kerdi to the substrate right at the joint. I'll still thinset the joint, but I'll use a strip of painters tape or something to keep the thinset from sticking to the Kerdi.Kerdi does make a product for that...I don't use it, so I'm unfamiliar with the name...but it's a strip like Kerdi Band that has a 1" or so strip down the center of it where there is no fleece.If you haven't yet done Kerdi over a drypack preslope, you'll like it. I posted some pics on the "Kerdi with Niche" thread over in the Photo Gallery. The floor starts on this post: -breaktime/messages?msg=86714.22
Initially I did small patches, then looked at them late that day and then again the next day. Not much difference between the dry set and the lightly moidified, but the highly modified did take longer. There wasn't a substantial difference, as due to the small size of the patches air getting to the thinset wasn't really a problem.I then did larger squares of Kerdi samples, there the difference was more apparent. The dry set fully cured a little faster than the lightly modified (Versabond). The highly modified (Flexbond) was still not fully cured after a couple of days. The edges of the sample were cured, but it was still soft in the center of the sample.You probably know that modified thinsets require air to cure, and that's why Schluter originally mandated that dry set only be used. No air can get through the polyethelene, so the modified mixes may not get a proper cure. No proper cure means a lower strength bond.My "testing" was as unscientifically low-tech as you can get, and about as subjective (my opinion vs measured results) as you can get. My opinion.To me, the size of the tile could also be a factor. No air will pass through the thickness of a porcelain tile, so modified thinset sandwiched between air-blocking porcelain tile and air-blocking Kerdi may have difficulting reaching a timely cure. Picking extremes, large format porcelains would be more at risk than smaller mosaics for a couple of reasons:
-Large format usually requires a slightly thicker bedding of thinset than small mosaics to ensure full coverage
-smaller mosaic tiles would also allow more air to the thinset through the spaces between the mosaics.Again, unscientific.I have been told by others that natural stone will allow air through it better than porcelains.My conclusions? I wouldn't use a highly modified thinset with Kerdi. I think that you could use a lightly modified thinset on walls with no worries unless you're using large tiles. You might still be able to use it, but ?? who knows. If I were doing tile on a floor over Ditra, I'd just use dry set.To answer your question: On the preceeding shower, I use gray dryset between the cement board and the Kerdi. I used white Versabond between the Kerdi and the tile. Partly because I felt comfortable switching to Versabond, partly because I wanted white thinset behind the tiles and I couldn't get and white dry set.What did I learn? I'd feel comfortable using Versabond to thinset the Kerdi to the cement board. I bought the dry set ahead of time for this shower, so I already had the dry set on hand.If using something like DenSheild as a backer behind the Kerdi? Denshield's facing is a vapor barrier, so I'd only use dryset to adhere Kerdi to DenShield or something like DenShield.A while ago I talked to Schluter's tech department and pretty much asked them about the conclusions that I came to. Back then he said that he agreed that:
-lightly modified thinsets were okay on shower walls and on shower floors where you only have 2-4-6" tiles max on the floors.
-Non-shower tiled floors over Ditra? Use dryset. It's not that the modified won't cure between the tile and the Ditra, but that the cure time may be excessive, restricting how soon you can walk on the floor or grout it. It may seem cured around the edges of the tile, but the interior bond may still be soft. Walking on it could shift or flex the tile slightly, breaking the bond without you knowing it.Makes sense to me.He said that they plan on allowing wider use of modified thinsets in the future, but that they're wrestling with their legal department over it. Mongo
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