A couple of days in Papua New Guinea

A bit off the beaten path I’ve come

Flying overnight from Seoul, with two ~5+hr legs, I arrived looking disheveled in gorgeous Papua New Guinea at 4:50am, running solely on fumes of adrenaline and perhaps the excellent Korean BBQ Youngjae had fed me the day earlier.

Mariam had asked me about the "why" when I planned this. After all the state department warns of youths with machetes roaming the streets, and I didn’t offer or had an adequate response. I am here now.

They have hundreds of local languages and cultures, but PNG was a British and then Australian colony till ‘75, so many people speak and understand English.

To be prudent FWIW, I am staying next to the airport in what can only be described as a pretty cool place. The city can be unsafe for inexperienced visitors. After taking in the amazing tropical views from my well-appointed room, the humid air, the 30C weather, and stuffing myself with breakfast and trying yummy fruits like fresh passion fruit, I caught up on some work and took a much needed nap.

The views from my balcony. A third floor room would have been nicer. But I don’t have basis for complaining.

Rambo & Dan

The day was energized when Rambo and Dan came to show me around. The people here are very friendly, and these two did not let me down. One thing I noticed was that many people have stained teeth, and learned that chewing on betel nut is the national pastime. It’s a resource constrained country that imports everything and thus is extremely expensive. This makes life even harder when income opportunities are non-existent.

Rambo drove us to the National Museum and art Gallery of PNG. I was the only visitor, and had a great time looking at tribal artifacts. Then another visitor, Donald showed up. Together, we even got to play a traditional drum. I am impressed by the intricate woven fish traps and ornate canoes that people still use. These are impressive and a must see. Interestingly, the signs said to not touch anything, yet the curator was more than encouraging me to touch and see how intricate the patterns are! BTW, the gallery is a modern concrete architecture and pretty amazing.

A collection of impressive masks from different regions of PNG at display at the gallery.

I met Donald at the museum, and he was kind enough to help me explore playing this traditional drum.

It is so green here. I was told this is their rainy season, otherwise many areas are brown from heat.

PNG has a large number of unexplored munition littered all over as the result of WW2, much of which is still considered dangerous. I got to see some war wrecks next to the gallery. I was told that they used to have a museum for this, but funds issues had caused them to just dump the stuff outside. It was an interesting site.

A destroyed plane from WW2.

WW2 wrecks.

After that, we went to see the PNG parliament. It’s an expansive modern structure representing the style of four different regions of PNG. I had fun interacting with lots of people there and also visited the parliament floor. They don’t allow pictures inside. So I took one with the main door, and made friends with someone who said they were the protocol officer.

Next, Rambo wanted to feed me some traditional food for lunch, but we failed as Dan deemed whatever Rambo selected “too traditional;” I suspect this is his code word for something that’s not hygienic and would make me sick. We ended up going to a mall and ate a spicy chicken burger. So like PNG Chick-fil-a I guess. It’s rainy season here, and my quest to do some local shopping was abondoned as the local vendors had packed up due to the rain. We will try tomorrow.

Traditional patterns painted on th walls along the road.

The day comes to an end

There’s a lot of poverty in PNG. I chose not to present that here. But as I sip on my designer cappuccino and enjoy a strawberry mouse under artistically set lighting while listening to the soothing water installment and rain, the chasm between the inside and outside of the hotel is not lost on me.

That Dan and Rambo said that spending the day with me was not like with a tourist but rather “cool and the gang” and like friends did make my day.

Tomorrow, I go outside the capitol city and meet some tribes and locals.

The strawberry mousse was delicious.

The fountain and the rain made it surreal.

It’s rainy season and the days are short

Most people trade in produce and handmade products, so streets get busy early. Even at breakfast, local guests were up and ready at 6am along with my jet-lagged self.

When we started, I told Rambo it’d be nice to take a picture with a "Welcome to Port Moresby" arc on the road. He just pulled right over. At another place, there was a Port Moreseby sign. We had to stop. It was cordoned off as they were doing some work around it. Dan literally used me as some kind of a ticket. He goes to the guards on duty there and says “I have him” and we were let in the area.

Adventure Park and Bird of Paradise

First stop, Adventure park, where I saw unique orchids and PNG’s National bird, Bird of Paradise. Being an only visitor has its perks. Was welcomed by a Pelican. Fed coconut berries to exotic birds. Touched treasured bird of paradise feathers. Chatted with a cockatoo. Heard what an excited cassowary sounds like. Held my breath while a caretaker provoked a resting crocodile to come out of a pond for me. Saw bushes blooming with colorful flowers of all kinds. I can safely say that adventure park delivered.

A lake at the adventure park. Entry is free for this location. People usually come here and do picnic.

Jack collecting bird of paradise feathers to show me. They are used in ceremonies etc. Hunting of the bird for plumes is banned, so people pick the feathers and sell them for good money.

The Cassowary got excited to see us. It's call was way too loud in person, like a donkey braying. Loud enough that I had to move away.

Our very own crocodile hunter. He’s unable to speak, but has his own way of communicating with the crocodiles.

Bomana WW2 Cemetery

After the adventure park, Dan suggested we make a quick stop at the Bomana Cemetery where over 3800 soldiers from the WW2 Kokoda trail adventures are buried. A poignant experience indeed. BTW, if you have about a week, and the endurance, you can walk the very popular 98km Kokoda trail from here.

Shopping at the Boroko market

I wanted to buy a cap, so Rambo took me to Boroko market. Here, street vendors sell handicrafts made by tribes people. After an hour of shopping and mostly chatting with everyone, we went to the local fish market. The fish was great, the setting simply beautiful.

The market was an interesting place. And besides usual caution against pickpocketing I did not feel anxious being there. I declare it pretty safe FWIW.

Homes on stilts built by people from outside the city who don't have land.

Making new friends at Lea Lea coastal village

The highlight of my day came with the visit to the Lea Lea coastal village 50km removed from Port Moresby. After crossing a bit of a shaky wooden bridge over an inlet, Everyone wanted to welcome me and wanted me to take their pictures. I especially had a blast interacting with kids. Many of whom spotted me from the sea and waved me to join. My only regret is that I should have brought candies to give out. Something for the next time.

As I was walking when someone called out. Some kids and their mothers asked me to like take a picture together. So I happily obliged. PNG is a polygamous society. I am not sure if many of these people were one family or not. But everyone was so friendly, and I really enjoyed talked with them.

BTW, they build their coastal village houses on stilts to be above the bush for cross ventilation. Up in the highlands where it is colder, the houses are closer to the ground. The country is very diverse with hundreds of different customs and languages, and many diverse people.

Everyone followed me to the bridge when I was returning, and wanted to showcase their skills.

How to chew Betel nut the proper way

Rambo had been itching to give me a betel nut chewing demo since yesterday, so I settled on a vendors shop platform and they all excitedly showed me how it’s done. I tasted the mustard, but wasn’t going to burn my mouth with slaked lime! I do think, if anything, this addiction is holding many back here. PNG has the highest oral cancer occurrences due to this.

Typically one betel nut costs 1 Kina (~33 cents), and you get lime and mustard with it. Same for smokes. The markets and everywhere I go, there are many many stands like this. Rambo’s village stopped growing coffee and switched to betel nut as it brings in more money.

Rambo in action!

Rambo approved of my new shirt.

Farewell

When it was time to bid farewell to Dan and Rambo, they declared me the best visitor who they have shown around! I fully trust their credentials on this :)

A rainbow that was more brilliant than typical appeared to wrap up the day, followed by an even brilliant daybreak to end my visit. A fitting metaphor for the friendly, colorful, and glowing personalities of the people of PNG.

Some more trips are linked on the main page.