PLEASE NOTE: Hand made fabric face masks are not medical grade, so no guarantee of protection is either given or implied.
Try on the mask. The knot is tied loosely so you can adjust the length. The elastics should be short enough to allow the mask to fit close to your face but not so tight that they bend your ears. You can work the knot along the elastic with your fingers while it is loosely tied. Once you have the knot in the right position, grip both strands on either side of the knot and pull it tight so it won't undo. If desired, you can cut the elastic ends about 5 mm from the knot and tuck it into the channel.
Your mask can be washed in hot water with laundry soap and dried on the cotton (hot) setting. The bendable nose bridge strip can be removed from its pocket during washing to preserve its lifespan. If you wish to leave it in, avoid washing the mask with heavy items and use the delicate or gentle cycle. Be sure to wash your hands after handling a used mask and before handling a clean mask.
I try to keep extra strips on hand, so I can provide you with more, or you can purchase them from amazon.ca (not an endorsement) in quantities of 50, 100 or 200. The double wire ties on bags of coffee beans work too. You can cut them with utility scissors or wire cutters and I recommend bending the ends over 1/4 in. and flattening them with pliers.
If it has only stretched slightly, you can re-tie the knot to make it shorter. If it loses its stretch completely, I can provide a replacement, or you can use a narrow hair band, available in most drug stores, cut into two pieces (pony tail holders are usually too short.) You can also convert your mask to a tie-on version by threading shoe laces or something similar through the channels. Use a small safety pin, paper clip or bobby pin to pull the new elastic or lace through the channel.
Your mask is made from three layers of fabric. The two outer layers are a type of woven cotton called batik (buh-teek). I have chosen to use this fabric because it has a higher thread count than most printed cotton fabric sold for quilting and crafting. It does not have the really high thread count that would give the best particle-trapping ability, but it is the best that is readily available.
The third, inner layer is a light-weight, tightly woven but breathable polyester. I am using this fabric because it has electrostatic properties that can trap very small particles. This is the same property that allows a balloon to stick to a wall after you rub it on your hair!
If you are interested in the research on fabrics that has led me to these choices, you can watch this video by Gail Kolmar and look at this research published by the American Chemical Society.
The bendable nose bridge strip is made of two adhesive backed strips of aluminum that are made for adhering to paper masks. I have used two placed back-to-back to make them stronger and so they will insert easily into the pocket.
The elastics are 9 in. to 11 in. (23 - 28 cm) long and 1/8 in. (3 mm) wide. I currently have no information regarding latex content.
I am using a pattern with one seam down the center for shaping and elastics that go around the ears, similar to the Olson Mask Pattern by Clayton Skousen and Rose Hedges. However, I have made several modifications to make it fit better, as well as eliminating the filter pocket and adding the third layer of fabric instead. Some of my modifications include lowering the area directly under the eyes, narrowing the sides near the ears to eliminate gaping, as well as raising this area to reduce pulling down on the ears, curving the lower front under the chin more, and adjusting both the width from ear to ear and the height from nose to chin based on your measurements.
All fabrics and elastic are pre-washed in hot water with soap, and dried on the cotton setting. This reduces the possibility of your mask shrinking or bleeding colour and removes any residual manufacturing dust or chemical treatments. The fabrics are then pressed with a hot iron before the mask is cut out.
The mask is cut by hand using a pattern that has been adjusted to your measurements. The inner layer is machine basted to the lining layer and the center seam is sewn. The center seam of the outer layer is sewn and the pocket for the nose bridge strip is prepared and attached. The center seams of the inner and outer layers are pressed in opposite directions, so that the seam allowance of one layer will help to block any leakage from the seam of the opposing layer. The sides of the lining are trimmed where they will be turned to create the channel for the elastic, in order to reduce bulk in this area.
The mask layers are then sewn together along the top and bottom, and the mask is turned right side out through one of the open sides. The mask is pressed along the top and bottom seams so that the mask takes the correct shape and the lining doesn't show. The sides are folded, pressed and stitched to form the channels for the elastic. The mask is washed again to remove dust and lint generated from handling the fabrics.
Finally, elastics are cut and inserted into the channels and knotted loosely. Nose bridge strips are inserted into the pocket and the mask is packed in a clean zippered storage bag before it is shipped or delivered to you.
From left to right: Adult Large, Adult Women's, Adult Basic, Child's Large, Child's Small
(NOTE: These exact fabrics may no longer be available)