The age-old sweetness lingers still / Photograph by Raktim Ghosal
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How Hyderabad's small bakeries came out fresh after battling the pandemic
Hyderabad is dotted with bakeries but the recent pandemic affected them adversely. The small, family-run businesses were some of the worst-hit but they persevered and innovated to stay on track to serve the much-relished delicacies.
Ukraine-Russia war has caused a surge in vegetable oil prices, said Zahir Khan, a man in his late twenties who assists his father in their bakery shop near Ambedkar Circle, Masjidbanda. The cream buns, rolls, and other cream-based delicacies were stacked on shelves as he lamented the lack of customers walking in through the door. A few of his friends flocked near the entrance, smoking, and chatting, making it look like a hangout place instead of a sprawling business. Zahir's father, who initially stood near the counter, now took a surrendering seat. He expected me to be a potential customer.
Same blow, different effect
Same blow, different effect
Hyderabad has bakeries almost everywhere one turns their eye, and it is often a pleasant sight for most residents and tourists in this bustling city. When the pandemic hit India, the abrupt lockdown made plans for expansion of business go haywire for the bakeries in Hyderabad while wrecking their predicted sales. The raw produce acquired to run their operations had to be discarded. The small, family-run bakeries took a massive hit during this period. Karachi Bakery was recently fined Rs. 10,000 for selling sweets with fungus on them on January 4, 2022, but that would not have harmed them as much as the lockdown had hit these small bakeries. It was not an amount of money that would harm the giant franchise, and the brand image would also be repaired by consistent marketing and promotion. However, it happened during a time when the small businesses were going through a patch financially, and if this had been inflicted on a smaller bakery, their struggle would have been more exorbitant. The pandemic had put the future of their business and sustenance in jeopardy.
Hyderabad has bakeries almost everywhere one turns their eye, and it is often a pleasant sight for most residents and tourists in this bustling city. When the pandemic hit India, the abrupt lockdown made plans for expansion of business go haywire for the bakeries in Hyderabad while wrecking their predicted sales. The raw produce acquired to run their operations had to be discarded. The small, family-run bakeries took a massive hit during this period. Karachi Bakery was recently fined Rs. 10,000 for selling sweets with fungus on them on January 4, 2022, but that would not have harmed them as much as the lockdown had hit these small bakeries. It was not an amount of money that would harm the giant franchise, and the brand image would also be repaired by consistent marketing and promotion. However, it happened during a time when the small businesses were going through a patch financially, and if this had been inflicted on a smaller bakery, their struggle would have been more exorbitant. The pandemic had put the future of their business and sustenance in jeopardy.
Cost of culture
According to a study named “Market Research And Analysis Of Bakery Industry In Hyderabad,” published in the International Journal Of Creative Research Thoughts (IJCRT),” Hyderabad has three bakeries per 2 sq. km area. The immense number of these eateries gives this city its distinctive touch. "Bakeries have always been a part of Hyderabad. The bun maska, Osmania biscuits, sheermal, naan are integral parts of the Hyderabadi cuisine," said Ayesha Sultana, an acclaimed food blogger whose Instagram account boasts more than 13,00,000 followers. The beautiful eateries in the city are a boon to the locals and the visitors. However, there was intensified competition during the testing period when the pandemic was at its fatal peak.
"Bakeries have always been a part of Hyderabad. The bun maska, Osmania biscuits, sheermal, naan are integral parts of the Hyderabadi cuisine."
Threat of another outbreak looms large / Photograph by Raktim Ghosal
"My family had enough savings to go through the lockdown, but the workers had to bear the brunt of it."
Still not the same
Competition coupled with the surge in the price of raw materials was a double-headed monster. "The prices of the oil that we use increased by Rs 90," complained Khaleel, who insisted to be addressed by only his first name, saying everyone calls him that. He is one of the five brothers who own Royal Bakers. Their father opened this shop at Lingampally more than five decades ago. There is still a steady flow of customers in the shop, which has a certain distinct old-world charm. The shop is situated in the middle of a busy junction, which is supposed to be a prime location for business. However, he said that his business has just recovered by 70%. It is not like the old days. However, he boasts of repeat customers loyal to his delicacies for months and years. He takes pride in his homemade products, and indeed the steady incoming of customers testified that he has been doing something right. Zahir, however, had not had that luck as he awaited the return of footfall in the vicinity of his shop's location like in the days when the world had never even heard of the novel coronavirus.
"Once the work from home ends and the HITEC city is back to its old self, North Indians will return, reigniting the business once again," says Zahir. Hyderabad is not just for the old Hyderabadis anymore; it is clear from Zahir's words. The city is expanding and is genuinely becoming a metropolis where people from all around the country and abroad have found their home. The owner of the 27-year-old Bakery named Baker's Den, Md. Zakir was vocal about his workers' plight. "My family had enough savings to go through the lockdown, but the workers had to bear the brunt of it." This lays bare the hierarchy that exists within the bakery business.
Why not door to door?
It was tremendously challenging to cope with the adversity of the lockdown for Hyderabad’s bakeries when their customers were locked inside their homes. Swiggy and Zomato would have been an idea off the top of one's head trying to look for solutions to keep the transactions going. However, the steep commission percentage, which sometimes may even rise to 25% of the selling price, made these food delivery apps more of a foe than a friend. The products of these bakeries are not as high priced as some of the premium cake shops in the city. So, it is only natural that their profit margin would be lower, and whatever profit they have been making, they are using it mostly for the future of the business . Thus, tying up with the food delivery apps was not a sustainable business model for a lot of small bakeries.
Saving grace
Tradition, culture, and taste come together / Photograph by Rajesh Pamnani
The question arises, how did they stay afloat and survive the brutality of the pandemic? There are different interpretations. Tamanna S Mehdi, journalist and food writer believes that "it all boils down to the quality, taste and customer service. It's nice being treated with a smile and a wave when you go. Of course, the freshness, taste, and price point are the major draws."
Krupa Ranganatha, another food vlogger says, "Bakeries that had their own ovens and baking units functioned normally even in the lockdown. There was a regular demand for their products.” With hardly any marketing, it is difficult for small bakeries to battle against the major bakery outlets that have now mushroomed all across the city. However, there will always be something unique that will draw the faithful of this city and the people from outside who are awed by its unmistakable charm to these small, quaint, but delicious bakeries.
"Someone has to run this business. Till I am here, I'll do it. After that there's Allah," said Mr. Khaleel with a sense of inevitable resignation. His sons aspire to go abroad for their careers, leaving behind the city and the countless bakeries in it, of which their father’s bakery is a small yet significant cog.
"Someone has to run this business. Till I am here, I'll do it. After that there's Allah."
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