As we reported recently, the Speed Booster is an adapter that allows for a full frame lens to be mounted on APS-C or Micro Four Thirds mirrorless cameras. There are two reasons why this is very big news, and both revolve around the optics inside the adapter. Firstly, Metabones claims that by reducing the image magnification, the Speed Booster gives an overall focal length multiplier of around 1.09x, promising a nearly full frame field of view on APS-C. The second claim, as its name implies, is that the Speed Booster increases the lens's speed by a stop, turning an F2.8 full frame lens into an F2.0 optic that allows for low light shooting at a lower ISO sensitivity.

The biggest remaining challenge, however, with the Canon EF to Sony NEX mount is AF speed, a direct consequence of pairing a PDAF-optimized lens on a CDAF sensor. And to their credit, Metabones makes it very clear that AF performance is going to lag far behind what you'd get by using the Sony NEX's conventional AF system.


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This is probably the best review on metabones speed booster I have read until now.

 Thank you Amadou Diallo!

Chromatic aberration (CA) around the corners is an issue, that becomes a serious problem during movie capturing. 

However Sony has a paid in-camera app that can help: it is named "Lens Compensation" and you can manually create lens profiles for speed booster that will remove the CA during movie capturing. There are serious limitations though, like when you use the "Lens Compensation" app you cannot see the audio levels while capturing.

Personally, definitely not speaking for everyone, but, The only area in which i would find this reducer useful is in a situation where i needed an ultra-wide image on my APS sized sensor. For example using a 10mm lens and actually getting a 11mm image as opposed to a 16mm image. Otherwise i address "Crop factor" by simply moving father away. Sometimes "Crop Factor" is good because it can "Seemingly" increase the reach of a lens. That having been said,, If the reducer speed booster actually increased lens resolution, i would be all in tat in a heartbeat,,but we know it doesn't. The calculated increase in speed is nice , but how does it affect image quality? for example if you put a canon f1.2 lens on there and ended up with a "calculated" f-stop of 0.80 (or whatever) thats awesome,,,, but if the lens image quality is so badly diminished, what's the point?

Anyway, tats just one persons view.

Is the last sentence of the above statement correct? I don't think 50mm + speed booster on an APS-C body will create the same depth-of-field as a 53.25mm lens on a FF body. The math was provided in the previous sentence. It will only create the DOF of a 35.5mm lens on a FF body.

As expected, sharpness, contrast dropped and chromatic aberration increased. However, it is pretty much the effect you'd get if a faster lens were available (say a 50mm f/1.0, etc) for the adapter is working well enough to justify itself as a speed increaser. If you need the speed, it may be the only practical way (financial or otherwise) to obtain it.

I dunno about that, but the slow AF is purely an issue of electronics,, not optics,, one I'm confident will be solved as more people buy this adapter,, looking forward to fast AF on the Speedbooster II.

Exactly Rocco.. 

I agree with you .. you see what i am talking about . So people should stop complaining about how accurate this products claims are and talking about the superior technical knowledge they think they have over the designers.. 

Just use it, take photos .. if you like it great, go out and take photos .. if you don't like it.. return it and move on .. 

I have taken great photos and even had sold some in gallery shows which I took using a Kodak Box camera that have a plastic lens. 

This speed booster is just a tool, a good photographer decides if they want to use it or something else to take photographs with.

Regarding multiple speedboosters, remember that the speedbooster is going behind a lens with a finite back focal distance. Adding the speedbooster decreases that distance further (see white paper), so too many speedboosters=image inside of glass (i.e. you can't actually put a sensor there).

This lens was designed to provide an increase in speed using full frame lenses on an ILC, but I am more intrigued by the potential of this concept to allow full frame lenses to deliver the same field of view on APS-C.

With film you needed hi-speed lenses on the burden of more glass surface. Today, anywhere, software drives it, from cars to cameras. Just increase ISO in our use case. Sensors with contemporary processing power take over.

So how bout EF to Eos M... currently you can mount EF lenses with the Canon adapter, but there is a 1.6 crop. The adapter is merely a spacer with no optics. It seems like this could add optics to eliminate the crop, and speed up the lens too.

It is really about time to change the term used in the English speaking photography community for the capability of a lense to let through more or less light. The term "speed" is absolutely misleading. We from non-english speaking countries have to endure the torture of reading photography related material translated from English by people who have no clue about photography.

Usually, the only other time people use the term "speed" in referring to a lens is when discussing "auto focus speed". If the discussion has anything to do with "bright" or "large max aperture" lenses, the term "speed" as in "lens speed" refers to the "max aperture" of a lens. So if you establish the context of the discussion, it's more difficult to get confused by ambiguous terms.

Totally agree with you, and BTW it doesn't really make any more sense in the English language either! Another term often used is "bright" lens, and that is what should be used all the time (especially on photography websites catering to an audience of varying levels of experience). Just because a bright lens allows you to use faster shutter speeds isn't a good reason to call it a fast lens IMO.

I agree, I am native English speaking and when younger had to have lens-speed explained - it comes from the wider aperture allowing a higher shutter speed to be used - hence the "speed" capability of the lens increases. Not logical when speed can mean many things but unfortunately now entrenched in the language of photography. The only excuse is that the present generation of photographers did not introduce it.

The choice of the term speed for a lens, is totally logical, but as some said, perhaps not language wise that obvious. But it refers to the fact that the wider the aperture, the faster it will be for the film and/or the sensor to receive the right amount of light to produce the image, hence the use of the word speed. A lens with an aperture of 1.0 is fast, because it will take a lot less time than a lens with an aperture of 5.6 to let the same amount of light through to the film and/or sensor, fast, slow, is speed.

More like the Pentax K-01 might have really flown in a different orbit if Pentax had the wit to build their own version of the speed booster into that body. (Sorry non English speakers - that is not going to translate that well)

With a Canon lens + Speedbooster mounted on a NEX, the aperture reported by the body is exactly 1 stop larger than the actual aperture set on the lens (save for lenses faster than f/1.4; the NEX can't report f-stop values smaller than f/1.0).

The reason it's reported as 1 stop brighter is b/c if you take into account the focal length reduction (0.71x), the 35mm lens with the Speedbooster is acting like a ~25mm lens on the NEX. But the physical diameter of the lens, wide open, with or without the Speedbooster, remains 35mm/1.4 = 25mm. So now you have a 25mm focal length lens with a 25mm aperture diameter. Since f/stop = focal length/diameter, your f-stop is now f/1.0.

I recently bought the Metabones EF-RF Speed Booster. A lot of people have commented on the Canon and Viltrox EF-RF speed boosters, but only a few people have talked about Metabones' offering on the RF mount, even though it's been on the market for a few years now. This is not a scientific review. I have used the Speed Booster, and I can say the image quality is perfectly good (though obviously with more glass you're always introducing the potential for new aberrations). But I don't have any of the competing products myself, so I can't do any direct comparisons (I've tried to read through the reviews/look at samples for the competitors, but I have not tested them myself.) I also don't have any charts or anything to show you. If there is interest, I can try to go out and generate some samples if you want them (I don't normally share my work on threads here because of the privacy aspects, but if I shot images just for DPR forums, that'd be fine.)

Why use a speed booster? I got the booster mostly because I was interested in using my ultra-wide FF lenses on the R7. I sometimes use my R5 and R7 at the same time; I was recently using my 14-24mm f/2.8 on my R7 and thought I could use a wider field of view for my video from that camera. I could have gone for an EF-S 10-22mm or 10-18mm, but those lenses are f/3.5 and f/4.5 at 10mm, respectively. For around the same price as an EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5, why not go for a speed booster then (for around the same price) and make my FF 14-24mm f/2.8 an APS-C 10-17mm f/2.0?

(A little note, because this can confuse people sometimes. The speed booster does not actually change any properties of your lens. My 14-24mm f/2.8 will show as a 10-17mm f/2.0, but the actual properties of the lens have not changed. The difference is that the image circle has been projected onto a smaller space than usual, just like an extender projects the image circle onto a larger space. This is really useful for packing an image large enough for a full-frame sensor so that most of it can be seen by a smaller APS-C camera sensor. The displayed values are the equivalent ones: the lens now functions as an APS-C 10-17mm f/2.0 lens. But this doesn't change how much light is physically let in through the lens' front element. You will not get more light on your APS-C sensor/in crop mode than you would get on a FF sensor in full-frame mode. Exceptionally, you will get more light on your sensor by using more of the image circle as described in a later section, but this is usually pretty severely limited by the size of the image circle your lens projects.) 2351a5e196

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