Alethea Brown
Sales Design Consultant
5925 Redwood Dr Suite A Ste A, Rohnert Park, CA 94928
707-586-3135 Direct
707-396-0104 Cell
WWW.TUFFSHED.COM
FAQs
Is installation included in your quote?
Yes, installation is included
How long does it take to get my order?
Our lead time is usually 7-10 days
Can I make changes after my order is placed?
Yes, changes can usually be made up to 5 business days before production date.
Is a deposit required to start my building?
Yes, we require a 50% deposit to schedule your build, 40% when we go into production and the remaining 10% once your building is complete. These payments are automatically scheduled at the time of order.
Does TUFF SHED prepare the site before installation?
No, site prep and leveling is the customer's responsibility. We are happy to provide contractor referrals.
Which paint colors are available?
TUFF SHEDs come in the following colors: https://www.tuffshed.com/ppg-paint-colors/
Can I order a custom color?
Yes. Just drop off your paint and we'll paint your shed to order.
Tips and Tricks for your Gravel Shed Foundation
1. Choose a site with:
a. Good drainage
It’s best if your shed is at the highest spot in your yard. That way, water drains away from the shed (and things inside it), discouraging rot, mold, and mildew.
b. Not too sloped
The steeper the slope, the more you’ll have to dig out/build up to make your shed foundation level. A gentle slope is better; an almost-level site is best.
c. Undisturbed ground
Keep your shed foundation away from areas where there’s been any digging/excavation in recent years. You don’t want to install your foundation only to have it start settling. This is especially important if your home was recently built; make sure you don’t pick a spot that was excavated during construction and just recently backfilled.
d. A site without obstructions or debris
If you have to dig up stumps, remove brush, or otherwise clear the site, you’re in for some extra work and sweat, especially if you’re working with hand tools.
e. A site with good lighting
If your shed will have windows, it doesn’t make sense to put it in a shaded area. Think about where the shadow of your house will fall, as well as the shadows of any trees or woods around your property. Plus, more sunlight reduces the risk of algae or mildew taking up residence in/on your shed.
2. Utility Lines
When planning where to put your shed foundations, make sure you know exactly where your utility lines are. You probably won’t need to dig that deep for a shed foundation, but the stakes that fasten the perimeter lumber could go deep enough to hit something. Better to be safe than sorry!
811 is the nationally designated phone number for requesting utility companies to mark lines on your property. It’s a completely free service to you as a homeowner, so by all means, take advantage of it! Someone once said: “Call 811 now so you don’t have to call 911 later!”
3. Local Ordinances
Many cities and counties have specific regulations which govern where outbuildings can be placed on a property and what percentage of the property or yard those buildings may cover. Be sure to research your local ordinances, zoning regulations, and/or building codes to make sure you’re in compliance. Specifically check:
a. Setback
This covers how far your shed foundation must be from primary structures, roads, property lines, and easements, like overhead power lines.
b. Footprint
This governs what percentage of your yard or property can be covered by your new shed.
c. HOA Requirements
Keep in mind that if your property is part of a homeowner’s association (HOA), the HOA may have additional requirements for sheds and gravel shed foundations.
4. Accessibility
Think about the primary use for your shed and plan accordingly. If it’ll be for your garden tools, put it near…the garden! If it’s for household items, put it close to the back door.
5. Materials
a. Pressure-treated lumber
Pressure-treated lumber is the material of choice for building the perimeter/retaining walls for your gravel shed foundation.
When purchasing lumber, choose a size at least 4×4 or larger and make sure that it’s not only pressure-treated, but also rated GC (for “ground contact”).
For a shed pad on level ground, you’ll need lumber equal to the total perimeter length; for a pad on a slope, you’ll need to buy extra for each additional level you need to build up.
b. ½” rebar
You’ll use 2’ pieces of rebar to stake the perimeter lumber down into the ground. If your perimeter lumber will be built up more than 2 or 3 layers, you’ll also want some 16” rebar stakes for fastening multiple layers of lumber together.
c. 4” exterior screws
You’ll use these to fasten together the corners of your perimeter. Make sure the screws you choose are rated for exterior use and contact with pressure-treated lumber. Screws should have hot dip galvanizing or equivalent coating, like polymer. A bugle head design is ideal for countersinking into the wood.
d. Stabilization fabric/geotextile/weed barrier
There are a couple of reasons to use a stabilization fabric or weed barrier when installing your gravel shed foundation.
For one thing, it helps prevent weeds from sprouting up and taking over your shed pad.
Second, it helps to separate the gravel from the dirt beneath it, adding an extra level of stability to the finished foundation. Keep in mind that the fabric you choose will need to be strong enough to support the weight of the gravel and the shed without puncturing, for example a woven stabilization fabric with a Class 3 rating according to the American Association of State Highway and Transportation Officials (AASHTO) M288-17 standards. A woven Class 3 fabric has a tensile strength of 200lbs and a puncture strength of 90lbs and is designed to be used in road construction.
e. Crushed stone
This is going to be the key ingredient of your shed foundation, so make sure you select the right type. There are a few important things to keep in mind when purchasing gravel for installing your shed foundation.
i. Make sure you use crushed stone, NOT actual gravel
This article is all about “GRAVEL shed foundations”, but it’s important to note that we’re actually referring to CRUSHED STONE. Real gravel (also referred to as river stone) is smooth and rounded on the edges.
DON’T use river stone for your gravel shed foundation. With its rounded corners, it won’t lock together properly when compacted, so it will continue to shift and settle once your shed is in place.
DO use crushed stone for your gravel shed foundation. Because it has jagged, uneven edges, it will lock together tightly when compacted and form a firm base for your shed.
ii. Make sure you choose the correct type of crushed stone
Crushed stone comes in a variety of sizes and types. The best type of crushed stone for a gravel shed foundation is ‘¾” clean’, sometimes also referred to as ‘clean stone’, ‘¾” washed’ or ‘#57’, depending on the supplier. ‘¾” clean’ is stone that has been screened through a ¾” square screen and has been washed to remove stone dust and other residues.
It’s important to buy ‘clean’ stone for installing a gravel shed foundation. Some people recommend using a crushed stone mixed with stone dust or ‘fines’ because it packs down harder. (These types of stone are sometimes referred to as ‘crusher run’, ‘#411’, or ‘#21A’, depending on the supplier.)
The problem with using ‘crusher run’ stone for a gravel shed foundation is that the mixture of stone and dust will pack TOO HARD, preventing water from draining through the shed foundation properly and causing puddling and/or runoff. ‘Crusher run’ stone is great for uses where it will be driven on (like a driveway), but ‘¾” clean’ stone is the best for a gravel shed foundation.
iii. Make sure you calculate how many cubic yards of stone to buy
You’ll want a minimum of 4” of stone at every part of your foundation, so figure accordingly. Take the width and length (in feet) of your foundation and multiply it by the average stone depth. Divide that number by 27 and you’ll get the cubic yards needed for your pad.
It’s important that the outside edges of your gravel foundation be about 2’ longer and wider than the dimensions of your shed. That’s because you should have at least 12” of extra space on each side of your shed to allow for water to drain off properly and protect the bottom of your shed.
f. Add double layer of chicken wire to prevent gophers.
g. Plate compactor (optional)
To really get your gravel shed foundation compacted well, we recommend a vibrating plate compactor. It will not only save you a lot of time with the hand tamper, it will also pack your gravel much tighter and make a firmer base for your shed.