JUNE 14 - 16
This photo is from the central market square known as Romerberg. These buildings are not original, but they were designed to look like the original architecture in the area before World War II. Many of Frankfurt's infrastructure was lost from the bombings in that war. In the distance, you can see the steeple of St. Bartholomew Cathedral. Below, you can read about its history.
This building was originally St. Paul's Church before being used as Germany's first meeting place for Germany's creation of a democratic government. It was destroyed in World War II, and it was the first building rebuilt to now serve as a historical marker. US President John F. Kennedy delivered a speech here in 1963 about developing an "Atlantic Partnership" between the United States and Germany.
This cathedral was one of the only buildings that survived the bombings during World War II with just minor damage. It is also known as the Kaiserdome because Roman emperors and German Kings were elected here since the 12th Century. You can see in the top photo that for blocks and blocks around it there is just rubble. They still hold religious services in the church, and we even witnessed a boys' choir practicing when we toured it. You can pay five euros to walk up the tight and narrow spiral staircase of 138 steps to look out the top open arch windows.
Think German mac and cheese. It has fresh egg noodles with irregular shapes that are soft and chewy, and it is baked in a cheese sauce that ends up kind of dry like a casserole and not soupy. It is almost always topped with crispy fried onions.
We know the history of the Holocaust and its impact on the Jewish community, but what is life like for Jewish people in contemporary Frankfurt, Germany?
Judaism is active and dynamic in Germany today even though only around 800 Jews were left after World War II. Architect Dr. Salomon Korn built this center in 1986, and he said, "Whoever builds a house wants to stay, and whoever wants to stay hopes for security." There are estimated to be 6,300 registered Jewish members in Frankfurt today. Remembrance Culture has been strong, but we are reaching a point in the timeline where we have lost nearly all of those first-hand witnesses. There are projects now creating holograms of survivors telling their stories to continue reaching young people because you need to listen to a witness to become a witness yourself.
Anti-Semitism (predjudice against Jews) is still present in Germany and around the world. After Hamas (a named terrorist group by several nations including the US) attacked, kidnapped, and killed Jews in Israel on October 7th, 2023, the Jewish community has experienced a 'reduction in visibility' out of fear, and the German government issued a high level of threat. For us to visit the center, we had to pass armed German police at the locked gate, show passports, have our baggage searched, and pass through a metal detector. In the following days, as we passed any Jewish school or synagogue anywhere in Germany, we spotted armed German police on patrol in response to the increased level of threat that still remains three years after the attack.
We asked the Director what actions she believed should be taken to avoid an event like the Holocaust in the future?
*Be aware of where words can lead
*Learn how to handle misinformation in the news and on social media - fact check
*Stand up for others
*Don't take democracy for granted
Heinrich Hoffmann was a psychiatrist and author. He wrote cautionary stories for children in an attempt to teach them morals and safety. The stories are told in a very dark and sometimes frightening way to scare children from making mistakes that could harm them. These were written for his three-year old son. They were published in 1845, and I included one example below. It is important to note that language and content used in the 1800s in some of his works would not be appropriate in society today.
Apple Wine is a traditional drink in Frankfurt for over 250 years. It is served in a stoneware jug with blue florals, and the glasses have a diamond etched pattern. The reason for this textured pattern was to help it keep from slipping from greasy fingers of those eating. A circle evergreen wreath with a small version of the jug inside is hung above the door of any restaurant that sells the product.
We had a meeting with three members of the European Central Bank. We had to show passports and go through a special screening before being allowed to enter. They provided us an education about the Euro and how its connection and use in the European Union. It was a great lesson in economics.
One day Mamma said "Conrad dear,
I must go out and leave you here.
But mind now, Conrad, what I say,
Don't suck your thumb while I'm away.
The great tall tailor always comes
To little boys who suck their thumbs;
And ere they dream what he's about,
He takes his great sharp scissors out,
And cuts their thumbs clean off—and then,
You know, they never grow again."
Mamma had scarcely turned her back,
The thumb was in, Alack! Alack!
The door flew open, in he ran,
The great, long, red-legged scissor-man.
Oh! children, see! the tailor's come
And caught out little Suck-a-Thumb.
Snip! Snap! Snip! the scissors go;
And Conrad cries out "Oh! Oh! Oh!"
Snip! Snap! Snip! They go so fast,
That both his thumbs are off at last.
Mamma comes home: there Conrad stands,
And looks quite sad, and shows his hands;
"Ah!" said Mamma, "I knew he'd come
To naughty little Suck-a-Thumb."
Taken from free use download on Project Gutenberg website on 6-26-26. For educational use, not distribution.
JUNE 16 - 18
These three stops were in central Germany which is more rural, and they were the highlight of my experience! Geography defines people and often answers the question: How does where you live affect how you live? While on the train to these rural locations, I viewed the natural landscape of the area, and it vividly reminded me of the area surrounding Hermann, Missouri with its rolling hills and open fields. It is no wonder German immigrants of the past chose and settled into areas that resembled their home country.
Our primary source witness today was US Veteran Vern Croely of the Blackhorse Regiment. He was stationed at Point Alpha which was a key staging point between the US in West Germany and Soviet forces in East Germany during the Cold War in the area known as the Fulda Gap. This red line was painted on a hill leading up to the front lines where the sides were separated by just a hundred average meters. When US forces climbed this hill in tanks, they were purposeful in pointing the guns of the tank backward as not to look as if they were engaging with Soviets.
What a sweet treat to meet this master baker and sample her desserts at the 5th oldest bakery in all of Germany, and THE oldest in her state of Thuringia. She inherited the baker from her father, who worked tirelessly to keep it privately run under East German control. To gain the title Master Baker, she had to attend a specialized program and pass specific requirements.
We sampled rhurbarb cake, cheesecake (kasekuchen), and her famous rye bread while participating in a Q and A with her with the help of an interpreter.
VIDEO of a previous interview
VIDEO of a cookie recipe
These musical instruments are created from one natural piece of alpine spruce or pine. They come in sections that have to be pieced together. They were traditionally used in mountainous areas to communicate across valleys, call livestock, or as music. They are most commonly within communities that lie within the Alps Mountains. The Alps are found in southern Germany in the state of Bavaria.
VIDEO sample
Today's tour guide was primary source eyewitness, Aline Gros. She was a child who lived in Eastern Germany in this area between the Rhon Mountains. Eastern Germany was ruled by Communism, and teachers were instructed to teach communist ideas to students in school. Aline grew up to believe in these ideals she was being taught as she knew no different. Eastern Germany was cut off from other ideas and ways of life in the greater world. Her father was an East German border patrol, but he never told her of his work or what he observed at the wall. East Germans were not allowed near the border to view it. Had her father described the wall to her, she may have talked about it at school thus putting her entire family and those she told in severe danger.
It was only when the wall came down in 1989 that Aline learned its truth. The wall was built by her leaders in East Germany not to keep others out but to keep all East Germans in. The barbed wires, metal fencing sheets, land mines, and concrete blocks were all installed only on the Eastern side. There were watchtowers with guards along the eastern side of these fences instructed to shoot anyone who came near believing they attempted escape. She was devastated to learn everything she had been taught to believe was untrue and used against her. To this day, she still carries doubt, fear, and hurt from her upbringing in East Germany.
In 1990, Germany reunified into one country though it was not without challenges. For example, many degrees earned in East Germany were not recognized in West Germany, and those professionals were unable to get jobs in their field. It was a time of difficult transition especially for East Germans.
Initial border patrol gates written in Russian and staffed with guards.
More effective barriers to keep easterners from escaping were soon needed and used barbed wire.
Later, a second fence of barbed wire was placed parallel to the first. Land mines were planted within the space between.
Additional fortifications came later with short concrete walls designed to stop cars from ramming the fence. The fence height and material was also changed.
This is a self shooting rifle device that was installed along the eastern side of the barriers. If an East German climbed the wall and grabbed the wire, the gun fired multiple metal pellets.
This small section of the Berlin Wall was brought to Point Alpha to display. The barriers in rural parts like those at Point Alpha were not the same. Also, only the western side of the wall would have been graffittied/painted as easterners were not allowed near any of the barriers.
This photograph was on display in the museum at Point Alpha. It shows people from East Germany coming through the first opened sections of the wall in 1989.
Most of us have heard of the Berlin Wall (built in 1961), but did you know the entire 1,400 km (870 miles) length of Germany from north to south was physically divided for decades in some way after World War II until 1989 as the Soviet Union separated itself from the rest of Europe.
SCHOOL VISIT IN VACHA
What similarities and differences can you spot from the eight photographs of the German school below as compared to our school in America?
"Stop Mobbing" was the theme of this bulletin board. It is the same message as "Stop Bullying".
This is the outside of the school. There is little security. There are no buzzers to get in, no school resource officers, no signing in at the office, no special window glass, and no video cameras anywhere on campus. The German students most wanted to know about violence in American schools - specifically school shootings.
This is the three-time elected Mayor of Vacha. He is standing at a famous bridge in the town. The town of Vacha was in East Germany. Just on the other side of this bridge was West Germany. Below you can see a historic photo from 1989 when the border ended and East Germans were crossing the bridge to the former western side they were forbidden to travel to for decades.
Grade 11 Student Tour - This amazing class of students gave us tours of their school and town with prepared presentations in English, their second language. Their teachers were grading them on their use of English during these interactions.
One of their favorite pop singers is Olivia Rodrigo, whose mother has German and Irish ancestry.
JUNE 19 - 23
This town is full of beautiful architecture; however, 80% of it was damaged or completely destroyed during World War II. This stone walkway still had remnants of bullet markings along the columns.
We did several walking tours all around the city putting in about 15,000 steps most days. While the city is large, most people walk, bike, or use public subways, trains, and busses to get around. It is an extremely active and busy urban area.
You have to be quick and pay attention for your stops on the subway system or the doors will close. Also, when walking there are sidewalks, bike lanes, tram lanes, and driving lanes, and you have to be aware of each. Bicyclists will warn you with their bells as they quickly fly by.
There are over 320 possible trade choices for students opting this path after Gynasium School (through 13th grade) instead of university; automotive/bike mechanics is just one of them. During this level of schooling, students get apprenticeship contracts with local business and split time between working and going to school.
This was the first university in Berlin in 1810. Famous scientist, Albert Einstein, was a professor here starting in 1914. With Hitler's uprising, Einstein left Germany in 1933 and never returned. Later that year, an angry mob of students and faculty gathered and burned books by select authors and on select topics. The window pane display on the ground in the photo was designed to remind people of this event. When you peer inside, you see empty bookshelves.
This is the building where the German Bundestag (parliament/government) meets.
The building sat unused for a long time after World War II. It was remodeled after reunification.
You have to show passports and go through a thorough security search to be able to take a tour.
This is a side view of one section of the Berlin Wall that is left for display. It was about 6 inches thick and stood about 12 feet high. Only the western side of the wall had grafitti/paint because this side was not under control by the wall. People in East Germany usually never even saw the wall as they were not allowed to approach due to constant guards. Today, the murals painted on it are done by local artists.
VIDEO of a few sections as I passed.
This project began 20 years ago by a few women to help other female immigrants adjust to new life in Germany. Today, the German government helps to fund the center. To work here, you must be an immigrant and a mother with at least B1-B2 level German language speaking ability. Workers will often wear red scarves in public as a way for others to recognize them to be able to seek help. They assist women with finding daycare, raising children with media influence in mind, registering children for school, language acquisition, acquiring jobs, and much more.
Contemporary Germany has made steps to learn from its past history. The government no longer does a census as it requires citizens to give personal identifying facts. It was these facts like religion or ethnicity that led specific individuals to be targeted and persecuted during the Holocaust.
German Artist, Gunter Demnig, created this concept of "stumbling stones" to allow passwerbys to pause, reflect, and remember individuals who were persecuted and/or murdered by National Socialism (Nazi-ism). After research, they are placed within the sidewalk outside the last known home of the individual. There is also a group responsible for cleaning the stones. These stones are found throughout Europe as the impact was large.
Another example of remembrance was found at Locknitz Elementary, a school we visited and toured. This school is in a former Jewish synagogue building, and the school community created a project within their schoolyard to recognize and remember the 6,000 individuals that were persecuted in this community. Each year, the grade six students work in teams to research individuals from the list and dedicate a brick on the wall with a ceremony. A former student was present the day we visited, and she pointed out the brick her class dedicated years before.