February 7th, 2021
Biloxi, Mississippi
This week began with a rest day in Chattahoochee. I spent the day with Jake, who is a 22 year old southern boy with a hankering for women and weed. At one point, I found myself hanging out with him at the gas station while he tried to sweet talk someone into giving him $10 in cash, and then he would CashApp them $10. It reminded me of hanging out with the "drugies" a bit at Jonesville High School. I'm so far removed from that lifestyle, yet there I was. There is an alternate universe where I am Jake, but I'm still in Michigan. Especially since we ate a Chinese buffet (somehow, this is the first time I've done this on the trip) Jake eventually met someone who gave him some weed and a job opportunity with his tree company. Good on ya, Jake!
After Chattahoochee, it was on to Panama City. I traveled west down 98 down to Laguna Beach. What is it with Florida and all of it's parallels to California? Orange County, Hollywood, Florida, Disney World...they're really trying to make you think it's California for some reason. At any rate, there was a lot of bike trail, so that was nice. Nothing too noteworthy, except this. A food trailer network that was made up of all airstreams. I didn't get any food, because come on, 8 bucks for a hot dog? But I did take a lovely and much needed nap in the sun here and wasn't bothered by anyone.
It may be just a gimmick but I bet cooking in one of these is better than an old bread truck.
I stayed with Nick shortly after arriving in Panama City. Nick is in the Air Force (which he jokingly called the Chair Force, which made me laugh more than it should've) and we talked about nerd culture and religion, two of my favorite subjects. He was a great host, taking me in fairly late and on the eve of when his girlfriend was coming into town. He wrote my name in Elvish, something he said comes in very useful as an icebreaker at comic cons. I believe it!
I don't drink so it was a shot of water for me! Cheers!
What a skill to have!
I also stopped at a place called the Donut Hole. And got this glorious thing.
I guess the scale here isn't great but this thing was as big as my hand at least. It was pretty good, a bit gimmicky but that was half the fun.
After that, it was onto Pensacola. It was a lot of the same until I hit the gorgeous Gulf Islands National Seashore. This totally caught me off guard. I knew this was going to be nice but I didn't think it would be this nice.
Due to Hurricane Sally, it was closed off to cars but bikes were okay. What followed was a 7+ mile stretch of quiet, gorgeous, untouched beach. Now, I'm not a huge fan of beaches. I don't dislike them, but Florida beaches, especially having been through a lot of them, start to feel the same. But this one was a total show stopper.
Just before you enter 399, you're greeted with the most narrow walkway I've ever crossed. This may be the scariest feeling I've had on the trip. Steel bottom and always afraid to scrape the side. Oh well, it was at least short.
Shameless selfie shortly after I hit the stretch. There were small dunes you could climb up.
Cynthia wanted one to, for her gram. What an elegant lady.
One more. Maybe it was the lack of people that made this so special but on this day, at this time, it earned the title of emerald coast.
After that stretch, I hit Pensacola Bay Bridge, which I didn't realize was out due to Hurricane Sally. So, I had to take a 40 mile detour to get to the next hosts house. But my spirit was so high from this short ride, I didn't even mind. This marks the first time I had to do night riding, about 2 hours of it. It was fine but I definitely worry about flats more as even with light, it's hard to see what's on the ground. Combine that with headlights blaring at you from the opposite direction and I can see why night riding, without a very strong light isn't a favorite of tourers.
The night I stayed with Victor. Victor is a Russian immigrant with possibly the most references I've ever seen from a couch surfer both surfing and hosting, around 450! He was very accommodating of me coming in late and let me stay an extra day to sort out my bike issues (see Headwinds and Tailwinds for details). I helped clean up his garage that was still destroyed from Hurricane Sally a year ago, as well as tube up one of his old bikes. A very interesting stay but a good one. I didn't get any pictures...sorry!
After that, it was on to Alabama! And just look at how excited I am!
It was a blustery, cold day but I managed to make this officially (okay, just technically) a cross country trip! First state line crossed!
I rode into Mobile and snuck my way across illegally using the Bankhead Tunnel. It didn't have any no bike signs...but it clearly is not meant for bikes. It was the hardest I've had to pedal so far on the trip, just because I wanted to get out of there so bad and there was a short but very steep uphill at the end.
But then it was on to Jessi's house. Jessi is a massage therapist who is building her couch surfing profile for a motorcycle tour she's trying to take in May, COVID permitting. Jessi was easily one of the most accommodating hosts I've had and had a really wonderful place. She also had two great dogs, Bella and Roxy, who I very much enjoyed. She encouraged me to stay a second night so I wouldn't have to head out in the cold and rain and that was the right call. I spent the day getting the bike ready and just relaxing. We ended the evening with some cookies and cream frozen yogurt, moonshine and songs by the fire. I hope she can find her brand of crazy when she gets to the U.K., and I hope they like dogs!
She was also able to rustle up some of her biking friends for a friendly ride out of Mobile.
Wow...roadies and tour folk, together at last. No carbon fiber snobbery, no 'do u even get miles, bro?', just people who like biking, riding bikes together. This is the kind of world I want to live in!
Thank you for a very nice ride! I've never really ridden in a group like this. You feel stronger, less vulnerable. There is strength in numbers!
I took 90 west until I hit Biloxi and tonight I'm staying with William, another wonderful host with two lovely teenage daughters that reminded me that I don't want to be a teenager again (or at least, wouldn't want to be a teenage girl). Just hearing them bicker was hilarious and the patience and kindness William showed toward them was very endearing. The verdicts still out on me having children, but if I do, I hope I can raise them as well as he has these girls.
As another week ends, I reflect on how much up and down can happen within a day, and a week. I've somewhat normalized the mood swings but the overarching spirit still tilts back and forth. I'm happy to report, as of this writing, my spirit is high. That ride this morning, the wonderful hosts and turn of the weather go a long way. Hopefully, this week I'll be out of Louisiana, or very close. Then it's on the monster of Texas, which could be a spirit breaker or definer. I guess there is only one way to find out. Stay tuned.
Headwinds and Tailwinds of the Week
In this section, I want to talk about things that have really helped me and things that have frustrated me, both surprising and expected. Here are some from this week:
Headwinds:
You guessed it...more actual headwinds - This week started off with headwinds, that thankfully turned into cross winds. This is expected but I'm understanding how people lose their spirit in the midst of them. Even with an understanding and readiness, they still suck.
Dog Bites - I got bit by a dog! I was pedaling (down the wrong road, no doubt) and saw a dog come up slowly behind me. For a second, I didn't think anything of it because my host in Chattahoochee had a pit bull that was sweet and cuddly. But the next second, I snapped out of it and realized, oh, this dog is coming for me. By that time, it was attached to my leg. I kicked it off, pedaled up the road a bit to dress the wound and got my pepper spray ready. Luckily, the dog was long gone. It was a lesson to have my pepper spray ready and for more awareness riding through those types of areas.
Back wheel - I know I need some beefier wheels, at the very least the back one. But I have what I have and when truing my wheel, the spoke nipple tried to escape. New wheel time!
The cold - It's been in the 40s and sometimes 30s in the morning. More annoying really. Luckily, it warms up a bit mid-day, mostly. I do have the gear for it but it's all predicated on keeping moving. The second you stop, the cold sets in and that wind is always trying to cut through you.
One more turn and it would've blasted me in the face!
Chomp!
Tailwinds:
Trek's Warranty - Once again saves the day. Sure, I got the same wheel, but it was free! I guess the wheel warranty is good until next year, so if it breaks again, it'll be time for another new wheel. This does incentivize me to use an inferior wheel, yes...but it's free! And it's not like I didn't put a butt load of miles on the old wheel.
Still trying - It has been a tough one. My spirit has been taking hits, not going to lie. But I'm still pressing on for the moment, and for that, I'm grateful. That may change tomorrow, or the next day. But not today.
Loving dogs - I've never been too afraid of dogs, but I have been gun shy the last few days after the bite. Luckily, Jessi's dogs helped me appreciate them more. For every bity, bad dog, there are a thousand good boys that will restore your faith. I'm still clutching pepper spray but at least I can separate the two.