Reproduction cartridges are a staple of video game preservation, especially for rare and expensive titles. For example, these five repros were listed on eBay for just under $50 (USD). You'd be lucky to buy TWO legitimate copies for that price! Unfortunately... If you're in the market for those legit copies shopping on eBay or similar can be a huge minefield of sellers who (unknowingly or purposefully) list repro carts at upwards of $40 or more. I've seen these a lot over the years and thought I'd make a guide on how I've been able to tell real from fake. I'm from North America but I ASSUME all of this information should apply to other regions as well.
[1: Black cartridges are always real (DS only)] DS fakes are the easiest to spot. ESPECIALLY HeartGold, SoulSilver, Black, White, Black 2 and White 2. These six games come in black cartridges as opposed to the typical gray variety. Well, technically a dark, dark transparent reddish-purple due to the infared tech built inside. Kinda like the end of some TV remotes. Personally, I have never seen a fake of these six that were not in a gray cartridge. (TL;DR: If any of these six games are in a gray cartridge, they are most certainly fake.)
The Ultimate Fake Id Guide 2012 Version 9 36
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[2: Shiny labels] HG/SS and all of the GBA games have shiny/metallic labels, though this can be hard to see in some eBay photos. KEEP IN MIND just because a label is shiny doesn't mean it's real. Those repro carts I mentioned above are one example. (TL;DR: If your HG/SS or GBA game isn't shiny or metallic, it is fake.)
[3: Look at the back (DS only)] The second biggest giveaway to a fake DS game is the back of the cartridge. Particularly the Nintendo logo. Compare this fake SoulSilver cartridge to this real one, or any DS game for that matter. The Nintendo logo just looks... off. The loop around the word 'Nintendo' is thinner and taller and the text itself, including the 'Pat. Pend.' underenath looks strange. (TL;DR: If the back of a DS game looks weird, it is fake.)
[4: Wear and tear] Let's be honest... Most of us weren't very gentle with our games as kids. I kept all mine loosely thrown into the pouch of my case. The labels got scratched from my fingernails. They went through the washer in my pocket. Even if you're gentle with them, constantly inserting and removing them from the system put distinctive marks on the plastic and even on the gold contacts, which can't be helped. This can be helpful in spotting games that have been in circulation for the past decade or so, since a lot of fake games made in the last few years have little to no wear on them. This is another thing that isn't 100% damning but it is a helpful detail. (TL;DR: Kids don't take care of things. If a game looks too clean, it MIGHT be fake.)
[5: ESRB logo] Obviously this won't apply to those outside North America, but the ESRB rating printed on the label has been tricky for some fakers to replicate. On this fake Diamond cart, look closely at the 'E' and compare it to this real one. It's subtle but the letter E itself is a bit thinner and the font for 'EVERYONE' looks a bit funky. On some label's this is even more noticable as you can see on these two fake FireRed carts. (TL;DR: If the ESRB rating looks funky, it is fake.)
[6: Smoky or clear? (GBA only)] This is something specific to FireRed and LeafGreen. Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald Versions all came in red, blue and green shells respectively. Rather than using the red and green shells from these titles, FR/LG's carts have a smokier, sort of frosted look to them, where R/S/E were all more clearer colors. Fake cart's tend to use those clearer shells for FR/LG, though similar to the shiny labels, this isn't always the case. (TL;DR: If FireRed and LeafGreen doesn't have smoky plastic, it is fake.)
As you can see from the above images, my genuine SM57 weighed 280.4g and the SM58 weighed 329.5g; after doing a little research online it does seem to be a trend that SM58s actually weigh between 320g and 330g, despite the official listed weight of 298g. The fake SM57 weighed 235.8g and the fake SM58 weighed 237.0g. I also weighed the removable grilles from the real and fake SM58s, with the fake version weighing in at 8.1g less than the genuine one:
Whilst I can accept a deviation of 3.6g from the weight of my real SM57 to the official stated weight, the weight deviation of the fake versions was significant, with the fake SM57 weighing 48.2g less than it should and the fake SM58 weighing 61.0g less than the official stated weight, and a whopping 92.5g less than my genuine model!
One thing the counterfeiters really go to town on is the packaging for their fake mics, replicating not just the box but all of the accompanying paperwork. But, just as with the cheap materials used to build the fake microphones themselves, corners have also been cut here, providing a number of telltale signs to look for.
The safety precautions documents were taken from the real SM58 and fake SM57 respectively. Note how on the real document, the triangular caution symbol appears as a neat grey watermark behind the text, whereas on the fake document it appears as an inconsistent mess, clearly as a result of the original document just having been scanned and reprinted cheaply:
On the genuine Shure stickers the paper on the underside is black, whereas on the fakes it is white and can also be seen as a thin white border on the front of the sticker. The fake stickers are also slightly smaller in size, measuring 207mm by 62mm, whereas the genuine stickers measure 210mm by 64mm:
Both the genuine and fake mic bags are made from artificial leather, but in terms of quality they are leagues apart. The genuine Shure bags have a subtle matte finish, neatly embossed logo and tidy stitching, whereas the fake ones have a tacky shiny finish, garishly pitted logo and wide, crude stitching.
The main body of both the SM57 and SM58 comprises two metal tubes that screw together. On the genuine microphones you can see that the divide between the two halves is more clearly defined due to each end curving in slightly around the lip, but on the fake versions the two sections sit together in a more flush manner.
Observe the black, circular-patterned mesh around the base of the SM57 capsule housing; on the genuine model the holes are larger, revealing part of the silver capsule underneath and the mesh is neatly arranged, whereas on the fake model the holes are small and the mesh is crooked.
The mesh grilles on the tops of the microphones are notably different too, with the fake version protruding further from the top of the plastic housing and sporting thinner strands of mesh that are dark silver in colour, as opposed the the thicker brushed metal effect seen on the genuine mic.
The spherical grille on the top of the fake SM58 seems to be made from the same cheap, thinner mesh as on the fake SM57, giving it an overall shinier, tacky look when compared to the sturdy-looking brushed metal of the genuine article.
The fake capsule also has a silver caution sticker affixed to it, which is commonly understood to be something that has only ever appeared on the counterfeit versions, begging the question of why the bootleggers ever went to the effort of putting it on there in the first place?
At the foot of the genuine SM58 body there is a CE (European Conformity) mark, which is absent from the foot of the fake version. My genuine SM57 does not have a CE mark, possibly due to it being an older model that was not produced specifically for the European market, but it is still something to keep a look out for.
I had read before that a common sign that a SM57 or SM58 is fake is if it has no printed code on the internal board that the wiring connects to, but in this instance this has proven untrue as the only mic out of the four to lack a code is the genuine SM58. In fact on first glance the internal wiring of the fake mics look pretty convincing, with both using the standard colour green and yellow wires; but just as with the boxes and paperwork, the cracks begin to show on closer inspection.
On the genuine models the rubberised inserts on either side of the wiring board can be moved away from the sides of the metal tube but will instantly return to their original position when released, whereas on the fake models they are barely attached to the interior of the mic at all.
The final visual differences between the two sets of mics can be seen around the section of threading that connects both halves of the main body together. On the genuine models the section of metal threading is nice and clean looking, but on the fakes the area below the threading looks very dull and possibly even corroded. You will also notice how the lengths of wire in the fake SM58 are much longer than in the real thing.
The increased density of sound in these recordings further brings out the discrepancies between the two sets of mics. The tinniness of the fake SM57 over-emphasises the transients of the hits, which makes it sound harsh without the lower-mids to back it up, and the fake SM58 manages to somehow sound both harsh and slightly muffled, with some audible distortion creeping in during the crescendo.
The recording from the fake SM57 lacks both the low-end thump and the boom that typically characterises a floor tom, once again sounding overly thin and lacking impact as a result. It also exaggerates the ring of the drum once again, creating a sound reminiscent of a bouncing beach ball during the last four tom hits. The fake SM58 fares similarly badly, lacking both body and lower-end definition whilst also sounding boxy and more distant during the lower velocity sections. It also produces a beachball-like tone during the last eight hits.
The tinniness and lack of low-end depth in the recording from the fake SM57 almost makes it sound like it has been captured from a different, smaller floor tom, and the over pronounced high-mids give the ring on the final hit an unpleasant metallic sound. The recording from the fake SM58 attributes a strange, almost nasal tone to the recording, making it sound almost as if the tom had been skinned with a sheet of paper. 589ccfa754
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