Whether you are a complete beginner or need a refresher course in the ever-evolving world of ferret care in the US, I'm happy you're here!
I believe there are 3 core rules to follow when owning ferrets:
Ferrets are highly intelligent, social, and inquisitive creatures, meaning they must have a friend! If you are unable to financially provide for two, then ferrets are not the pet for you.
There are rare instances in which a ferret is unable to bond to another, in which case their care and time spent with you must be doubled, as you are now their bonded companion.
How can you see two ferrets cuddling and NOT want a second anyway?
A valid answer for minimum time outside of their cage is heavily debated, but it is my professional opinion that ferrets should not be caged longer than 12 hours.
Similar to how a need for a more convenient form of feeding emerged in the form of kibble in the last 40 years, I believe companies have been advertising smaller and smaller cages to make it seem like ferrets are more accessible to the average consumer.
I did not provide the care I do today simply by just knowing better. I too was a victim of US marketing and believed that a DCN and kibble were acceptable for my first two ferrets. There is always something to learn, to add to your routine, and something to change about your care. While studies are limited currently, we are still evolving and learning! Open-mindedness is key to proper pet ownership, regardless of species.
As stated previously, ferrets need an AMPLE amount of time outside of their cage in a well-maintained and "ferret-proofed" area. Remember, these guys are sneaky slinkies! Ensure your ferret does not have access to dryer tubing, electrical outlets, appliances, and ventilation systems when out of their cage.
Common signs your ferrets are kept in too small of a cage, are left in their cage too long, or boredom includes:
Scratching/clawing at the cage bars as shown above.
"Cage Rage": biting/chewing on cage bars. This can lead to severe dental damage and requires an anesthetized dental to repair/extract damaged teeth.
Scratching/chewing/ingesting inedible objects: It is not uncommon for owners to reach out to me for advice as their ferrets have created a habit of chewing and ingesting the bedding and toys while in the cage. This is a negative behavioral habit mainly derived from boredom (this may also be caused by ferrets that are fed an inadequate diet and are suffering from a nutritional deficiency).
In theory, the type of cage you choose to purchase for your ferret(s) should not matter so long as they get ample time outside of it in a ferret-safe space. Of course, there are some TERRIBLE cages on the market that break my heart that so many foozles are kept in them. I personally recommend:
Double Critter Nation
or the
Double Ferret Nation
Ferrets are wildly intelligent, inquisitive, and LOVE to get themselves into trouble if they do not have enough toys and enrichment. (Who am I kidding, they still try to get everywhere they know you don't want them to be, but this is especially true if they're bored.)
It is important to have a variety of toys and enrichment available to your ferrets. Visit my link.tree link to find my Amazon list of toys/enrichment.
Ball Pits: Truly one of the ferrets' favorites! You can purchase items that are intended to be used for ball pits (children's toys are a great place to look!) but I create my own by building SONGMICS Pet Playpens into the shape I need.
Dig Boxes: A great enrichment tool that helps your ferret bring out their inner wild! The deep and wider the container that you can use, the better! Common choices for dig box materials are uncooked Rice, uncooked Beans, uncooked Macaroni, Shredded Paper, and moist CocoFiber. I use CocoFiber in multiple dig boxes as it is the most natural for them and the most affordable when purchased in bulk, although it can get quite messy. It's important to frequently check your dig box material for urine/feces/excessive dust and replace the materials as needed to prevent respiratory illness.
Dryer Tubing: This is a must-have for ferrets as it allows them to feel as though they are burrowing in the wild.
Short cat trees: Ferrets like to climb but are not the smartest when it comes to gravity, so purchasing short cat trees ensures they will not fall from too great of a height and keep them happy as they explore.
Crinkle/Jingle toys: Ferrets love the sounds of crinkling plastic and jingling bells, but these items must be closely watched and discarded if your ferret decides it looks like a tasty snack to avoid a blockage.
Squeaker toys: Many ferrets get excited by the sounds of squeaky toys but some ferrets instinctively enter a hunting mode if they hear a squeaker as it resembles a rabbit in distress. This may cause a lack of bite inhibition and should be done with caution if you have thin/sensitive skin. This is a great tool to call for your ferrets if they are hiding!
(These pose a risk for ingestion and blockage, which can result in death if not promptly treated. Visit this link to find out just how many blockage risks there are in your home!)
Rubber toys
Foam toys
Styrofoam
Long strings
Small items that can be easily chewed and digested
Cat nip toys
Be sure to frequently switch things up and add new toys into the rotation as ferrets can also become bored if their environment stays the same for too long. When I deep clean their room weekly, I will always rearrange their room to keep things interesting!
When it comes to selecting a diet for your ferrets, I implore you to perform heavy research. There is an excessive amount of misinformation and your decision should not be made lightly. As there is so much information regarding a ferret's diet, I have dedicated an entire page to providing you with all the information you need regarding multiple forms of feeding.
While treats should be kept to a minimum, especially for our ferrets that love to eat, we always want to spoil our babies. We can also utilize treats for training and maintenance.
Salmon Oil: Salmon Oil is rich in Omega-3 and Omega-6 Fatty Acids, which are great for skin and coat health, as well as heart and brain health. It is the most commonly used treat for medications and nail trims, as well as transitioning picky ferrets to a raw diet. (Important Note: Ferrets can only have a maximum of 1 teaspoon of salmon oil per week. An excessive amount of oil will coat their digestive tract and cause malabsorption and diarrhea.)
Freeze-Dried Treats: These are the "healthiest" forms of treats that can be given. Remember an excess of these treats will throw off their diet and may cause nutritional deficiencies and obesity. Below is a list of freeze-dried treat providers provided by the Holistic Ferret Forum.
Cosma Snackies Freeze Dried Cat Treats: 100% Pure Meat or Fish *
Stella and Chewy’s Feline Freeze Dried (many S&C products do contain vegetable/plant matter)
*Note that freeze-dried TREATS are NOT a balanced meal, but great treats. Be sure to always READ THE INGREDIENT LIST of any product you purchase before feeding it to your ferrets.
3. Whole Whisked Chicken Egg/Yolk*: Egg yolk is considered a treat as ferrets learn to love it and it can only be given sparingly. The main purpose of feeding egg yolks to our ferrets is to prevent hairballs, especially during coat change seasons. This is because the lecithin found in the yolk binds to the proteins that cause hairballs and allows them to pass before causing a blockage. Egg whites can not be fed to ferrets alone as it can lead to a biotin deficiency which will cause hair breakage and hair loss.
You can also feed whole Quail Eggs* as they are rich in nutrients but are smaller in volume and can be fed more frequently. Ferrets love to roll them around and crack them.
Feeding Guide for Chicken Eggs: 1 whole egg per week, 2-3 whole eggs during shedding season.
*Feeding an excessive amount of eggs will throw off the balance of their diet and cause digestive issues.
4. Juvenile Whole Prey Items: If your ferret is comfortable eating a whole prey diet, young prey items are a great treat and provide mental stimulation while also aiding in dental care with the small bones they must chew. This items include young chicks, mice, rats, and so forth. Any juvenile animal will not provide enough nutrients for your ferret to be considered a meal, but offer a great treat from time to time.
Any treats containing fruits/vegetables/corn syrup are unsafe for your ferrets and should never be offered. I encourage you to only offer the treats I have listed above. I do not recommend Marshall's ferret treats of any kind.
Nail Trims: A ferret's nails should be trimmed every 1-2 weeks depending on growth. An overgrown nail risks breakage, catching on fabric, ripping off the nail bed, and can change the anatomy of the foot and cause arthritis. Nail trims are done easiest by applying a small amount of salmon oil to their bellies to distract them while you trim. I have a video tutorial on nail trims you can find on my TikTok.
Teeth Brushing: If you feed your ferret anything other than frankenprey or whole prey, you will need to brush your ferret's teeth daily to prevent tartar buildup and disease. Dental disease is also linked to heart, kidney, and liver disease. I recommend either using a Q-tip dipped in an enzymatic toothpaste or a small toothbrush, such as RyerCat toothbrushes. Use an enzymatic toothpaste such as CET Enzymatic Toothpaste. I've also made a tutorial on my TikTok.
Bathing: Excessive bathing (more than once every 6 months) will cause your ferret's skin to dry out and produce an excess of natural oils causing them to smell worse and have dry, itchy skin. Never use any soaps/shampoos/conditioners, as these will only cause their coat to worsen and may cause irritation. Instead, use Old Fashioned oatmeal in a sock or pantyhose and tie it over your faucet or tie it to sit in the bath water. This will create a natural oatmeal bath which will rehydrate the skin without stripping their coat of their natural oils. Ferrets should not be bathed more than twice a year (best to coincide with coat changes), unless they mess themselves. To help with smell, see the article below.
Feed a properly balanced and high-quality raw diet. This will not only keep the stools smaller (as they can digest the entirety of their meals) but also drier and less smelly with proper bone content.
Do NOT over-bathe! As stated above, excessive bathing causes their scent to become worse, not better.
Clean, Clean, CLEAN! Spot clean accidents, litterpans/potty pads twice daily. The use of perfume-free and enzymatic cleaners will also resolve any leftover scent. Washing their bedding, toys, and anything you can safely fit in the washing machine or bathtub at least once a week will also reduce scent. I say this to every one of my clients/friends: ferrets only smell as good as their bedding. Perform a deep cleaning of their items at least once a month, and I mean everything!
Absolutely NO use of plug-in scent diffusers, oil diffusers, perfumes, or harsh chemicals.
Cleaning is a vital aspect of ferret ownership and is 50% of my care routine for them. On average I spend an hour spot cleaning twice a day, 10-12 hours deep cleaning once a week, and 12+ hours DEEP-deep cleaning once a month.
It is important to note that ferrets have incredibly sensitive upper respiratory systems and are at risk of developing upper respiratory infections or even cancer from scented items/harsh chemicals. The use of pet-friendly enzymatic cleaners is acceptable, but most avid ferret owners prefer to use only dilute vinegar water solutions for cleaning purposes.