Woven cloth consists of two elements: the warp and the weft. The warp is the collective noun for the long threads that the weft passes back and forth between. "Warp" can also be a verb, meaning to put threads onto a loom in preparation for weaving, The warp creates a shed when some warp threads are lifted above or dropped below others. This is the space the warp passes through. A "warp faced weave" means that the design is created by the warp threads and those are the only threads really visible. The weft threads are seen only on the very edge of the weaving, called the selvedge (see Maestro David's belt as an example. The white dots along the side are created by the weft.).
If a weaver chooses, they can pick-up warp threads and float the weft to create different designs. Those types of weavings have lots of different names but the one thing they all have in common is that they are not considered plainweave. Plainweave is a style of weaving where two sheds are created and nothing is done to tweak the design made by the warp. When most people talk about inkle weaving, they are usually talking about a warp-faced plainwoven band. The inkle loom is at best a very late period invention but a warp-faced plainwoven band is not. This type of weaving as been around for a very, very long time. Warp-faced weaving can be done on anything, inkle looms just happen to be very convenient. My warp-faced plainwoven bands are all done on an inkle loom.
Most are made with wool, some with wool and linen and a couple of cotton just for something different. For this style of band, all of the design work is done upfront. Once the loom is dressed (the warp put onto the loom), the design is finished. It's just a matter of weaving from there. When I'm designing a band, I don't generally work from a pattern. I build the design as I dress the loom, using the continuous warp method (meaning that all of the warp threads are tied to each other). I generally like my designs to be balanced, meaning there is a mid-point and either side of that mid-point mirrors each other. Viking Age Scandinavians used as many vibrant colors as they could in their attire and accessories. I generally try to keep my color pallet in the realm of VA period appropriate or probable, but sometimes I just weave in the colors I want.
This belt was woven as a gift for a friend. I used a smaller linen weft for this belt as an experiment. The smaller weft results in a more pliable belt, which isn't necessarily a great quality. This belt tends to fold on itself in a way that others don't. However, this technique would be great for trim.
A very narrow wool band used as a tie for a headscarf. I used very fine wool for the warp and a thicker linen thread for the weft. This created a really nice texture along the band and little decorative nubs along the selvedge.
A wool belt woven for my son.
A belt woven for Maestro David Vázquez de Valençia of East Kingdom. I was very proud of the consistent width of this belt, as shown by the video. I also chose a contrasting weft for a pop of color along the selvedge.
This band was woven as a bag strap. The bag has since died a sudden and terrible death but the band lives on as a belt. It's not the best woven band I've ever done but I like the design and the color choices. I was still learning to change wefts when I wove this so there are some rough spots but overall it's perfectly serviceable.
This may have been my first woven item made from wool. I cannot find an earlier example of me weaving with wool so I think this is it. I can look at this band and see where I would eventually improve and how I was learning. It's still one of my favorite belts, flaws and all.
This is a cotton band that I wove as an experiment. It's one of my favorite bands. I use it for everything from tying bundles to yoga to wearing as a belt.
This belt was warped as a gift for a friend, but as I wove it, I realized it wasn't their belt. It took a couple of years, but I figured out who I wove it for recently and gifted it to them.
This belt was woven as a gift for Lord Viljamaiear Larenson
This belt was gifted to a dear friend in the Middle Kingdom. I'm still not sure I like the colors I chose but I wanted it to be bold and well, it sure is bold.
A belt woven for a friend new to the SCA. The lighter blue yarn is variegated which gives the overall belt a really pretty appearance. I used a contrasting weft for added visual interest.
I didn't know who I wove this belt for until recently, but I'm really glad I figured it out because she's a delight.