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The suit was darker than expected. The pictures in the listing show a semi-light grey fabric, but the suit itself was actually more of a true charcoal with a light chalk stripe. The pants were a little loose in the waist, but the length was pretty perfect, stopping at the top of my shoe. The jacket is where most of the issues lie; just take a look! Here it is before tailoring:
Boom, there it is. You can really see how important tailoring is! The jacket is slimmer and shorter while the pants have been tapered from the thighs to the opening, both of which help my short stature look its best in a suit! If you take only one thing from this article make sure its this: fit matters, but tailoring matters more.
The key to pulling off these patterns is scale. The larger scale pinstripes are offset by the thin stripes of the shirt; both of these are contrasted greatly by the bold print of the tie. People say that pinstripe suits are super formal and prints tend to lessen the effect, but the fact stands that guys have been combining patterns for a long time. This gentleman wears his pinstripe suit with a striped shirt and dotted tie! The amount of pattern mixing is almost contemporary with his choices.
With most articles of clothing, the quality is fairly easy to ascertain just by handling the garment. Suits and sport coats, however, require a layer between the fabric and the lining and there are several different methods for creating this "skeleton" of sorts.
However, the disadvantages are significant. As with any polymer based material, fusibles are not breathable, so they run much hotter than canvas. They also have the tendency to "de-laminate", which is a sort of bubbling effect that becomes evident on the outside of the jacket caused by the fusible separating from the fabric. This is generally due to dry-cleaning and pressing (solvent and heat).
By far the most important disadvantage is the way a fusible garment drapes. Whereas canvas is stiff and springy, fusible is limp and lifeless, like a rolled out cotton ball. This might seem like an insignificant difference, but with canvas you can make a very lightweight garment that holds its shape well:
The canvas material in the video above is extremely thin, perhaps slightly thicker than a piece of standard office paper, but you can see that is quite springy. It is constructed from a combination of horsehair (not harmful to the horse, think of violin bows), wool, and linen. With a fused jacket, the fusible and the fabric are attached across the entire shared surface, as opposed to a floating canvas.
The Jos. A. Bank jacket has a canvas piece in the chest, which is a fairly common addition to many fused garments, as it is relatively easy to attach compared to a full canvas and does not require basting.
The lapel (which you can't see in the photo) is also fused. The disadvantage here is that the lapel will sit very flat against the chest, almost as if it is creased. With a fully canvassed jacket, the lapel and chest are generally one piece of canvas, and an additional strip of material runs down the folding point to add extra heft, which gives the lapel a "rolled" effect where it doesn't sit flat on the chest.
On higher-end jackets, most of the edges are rolled over, "taped," and basted so they are not flimsy. Curved edges, such as the bottom-front of the jacket, are micro-pleated to make the curve without bunching. On the dissected jacket the fusing goes right to the edge and then is folded over, so the edges have the same weight as any other portion of the jacket.
Lastly, one important detail for proper fit and drape is a hand sewn armhole. The armhole is a complete circle and, as you might imagine, hard to accurately sew on a machine. It is important to make sure that the sleeve and jacket are rotating in unison while sewing them together and this is difficult to do with a machine.
By cutting open and exposing the inside of the Jos. A. Bank suit, I was able to find out precisely how it was manufactured. The guts were pretty much as expected and representative of jackets in their price range, as well as many that are more expensive. Quality, fully canvassed suits generally range from the high $2000s and up, so Jos. A. Bank isn't committing any cardinal sins at approximately $500.
I have a few questions, though. JAB has multiple lines, like many clothiers, and the Signature and Signature Gold are two different ones. The former does not claim half-canvassing (though it does have a chest piece) whereas the latter does claim half-canvassing. Can you tell if the suit reviewed here was Signature or Signature Gold? The difference is worth knowing. JAB also has the Reserve collection, which is a higher quality point and, it is said, is actually made by Joseph Abboud. Know anything about that line?
We decided, after searching and searching for the perfect suit for our groomsmen, to go with Jos A. Bank. Our GM are wearing just pants and a vest with a nice white dress shirt underneath, and out of everywhere we looked, we liked the outfits Jos A. Bank had to offer.
Well, we have had NOTHING but trouble. I think it is really a branch by branch situation... but seriously just ISSUES. First things first: they did not put our GM outfits in a computer... it is literally written on a piece of paper in a binder at a specific jos a bank location. If they want the promotional price, they have to go to THAT location. Whatever, we just told all our GM to get to that one. I thought it was old school, but understand that these people work off commission, so I am sure they want them purchased at THAT location. I was annoyed but that was the least of our problems. I am just so fed up with this place, I could scream. Get ready for a long ass rant (cont in comments...)
Groomsmen #2- SAME ISSUE. He goes in, tells them he is part of our wedding party, they have no idea where to find the information. GM calls FH, who calls the branch and tells him where to find that fucking binder with our sheet in it (like seriously!? Are these people trained!?) We thought that was the end of it. Nope, we get a call from GM and he asks Hey, I thought it was going to be $175, this guy is telling me it is going to be $400. FH gets on the phone with the guy who is trying to sell him THE ENTIRE THREE PIECE SUIT! The sheet clearly states that the GM just need the pants and vest. WTF.
Well, FH and I will be going in this weekend to complain. What a load of crap. Our GM and FH, all together, will be spending well over $1200 there, and to be treated this way is just ridiculous.
I had issues with our tuxes too. We have a larger groomsmen and he was being measured and the guy actually asked him if he needed to be able to do up the jacket because he was too lazy to continue trying different sizes, really?! that's so rude! My husbands tie was wrinkled to shit as well and the overall customer service was bleh...I'm sorry you had a tough time too, hopefully they will compensate somehow.
Oh wow, thanks for the heads up! We're doing our suits there too. They should only be about $200 each. And you know, I didn't even think about the fact that they only have the forms at one store, which considering every groomsman is in a different city, will obviously not work. I'll have to give them a call about that. I guess I just figured that since they put tux orders in the computer, they would do the same for suits. I'll be honest, the first time I went in there, the sales guy REFUSED to even show me anything except the most expensive suit in the entire store. He claimed that they didnt have anything else in navy blue, which is a load of crap. I went back a couple months later, told the manager about my last experience, and she rectified it and gave us an awesome experience.
I've heard they're not great, either. I had a friend warn me here (in MN). If you are in the midwest near any Savvi stores, they did a fab job for our wedding. Suits looked amazing and were around the same price as Men's Wearhouse (but more selection of grey suits at Savvi).
I wish I had thought of Savvi, Elfie... I am also in MN, and after we searched and searched what we thought was every store for the perfect navy suit (really it was the vest we had a hard time finding), and then picked Jos A Bank, we got a flyer from a Savvi and were like "ah... we should have checked them out too!" 152ee80cbc
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