Brief City History

Sheffield's Founding and industrial origins

World War I , Nitrate Plants and the Village

Following are just some of the highlights of the multiple layers of profound history of the City of Sheffield.

History relevant to Sheffield’s current situation began long before the city was incorporated. It was affected by General Andrew Jackson as he built his military road through the area in the early 1800’s and identified the site as an appropriate location for a future city. Jackson Highway follows the path of his military road.

Coldwater Town

In the 1780s, Cherokees who were pushed west by European American migration founded a town on the west side of Spring Creek called Oka Kapassa or Coldwater. They were joined by French traders from the Midwest. Their resistance to the Americans taking their land led to persistent raids on settlements in middle Tennessee around the Nashville area. In 1787, Colonel James Robertson led a troop of 130 militiamen to destroy the town and end the raids. When the militiamen arrived at Coldwater Town, they split into two forces. One force attacked the town from the south and the other waited on the east side of the Spring Creek where Tuscumbia Landing would be built to shoot the Cherokee as they fled. As planned the Cherokee and French at Coldwater town were taken by surprise by the militiamen. Many were killed including some of the French traders and one French woman. The militiamen destroyed the town and allowed the surviving French to leave. The source of the raids was eliminated.

Tuscumbia Landing

Around 1820, merchants in Tuscumbia built a port called Tuscumbia Landing on the Tennessee River at the mouth of Spring Creek about 2 miles from Downtown Tuscumbia. At first, they used a wagon road to transport commodities to and from the port. By 1830, the first railroad west of the Appalachian Mountains was built between downtown Tuscumbia and Tuscumbia Landing. Initially it was horse drawn with passenger cars that looked like stagecoaches. Shortly later, it was extended to Decatur to provide efficient transport around the treacherous Muscle Shoals. Steam locomotives took the place of horses.

Tuscumbia Landing was used in the late 1820s and 1830’s to transport Native Americans west to Indian Territory. The migration of European Americans into the Southeast gradually pushed Native Americans from their homes. Wars and treaties of dubious legality and fairness accelerated the process in the 1820s and 1830s. The Indian Removal Act passed by Congress in 1830 sealed the fate of the Creek, Cherokee and other southeastern tribes. The first organized removal of Native Americans through Tuscumbia Landing was a "voluntary" party of around 650 Creeks in1827. Other detachments of Cherokees and Creeks were voluntarily removed through Tuscumbia Landing. Those who failed to leave on their own were rounded up by the army and militias in North Carolina, Georgia and Alabama. Many were forced from their homes with only what they could carry. The forced removal of Native Americans was so arduous it became referred to as the Trail of Tears. Some came by land to Tuscumbia to board boats to travel west. Others came from up the Tennessee River to Decatur and traveled to Tuscumbia Landing on the Tuscumbia, Courtland and Decatur Railroad.

At the time that Creek and Cherokee were brought to Tuscumbia Landing, it was a bustling river port with a three-story brick terminal building or depot. The train entered the depot on the top floor. An incline plane extended from the third floor to the waterfront to slide cotton and other commodities down to the docks for loading on flat boats and steam boats for the trip down river. Cotton warehouses and other buildings were built to accommodate the volume of commerce. Oyster shells were found at the site suggesting a restaurant that served seafood brought from the Gulf was there. The Native Americans were brought to the Landing, loaded onto keel boats, flat boats or steamboats to travel to the Ohio River, Mississippi River and Arkansas River to reach Indian Territory. This is what the Cherokee and Creek Native Americans experienced during the Trail of Tears at Tuscumbia Landing.

Tuscumbia Landing continued to function as a vibrant river port through the mid-1800s. During the Civil War, Tuscumbia Landing was the site of numerous skirmishes between the opposing forces. It and the City of Tuscumbia changed hands during the war. The Terminal building and the other structures at Tuscumbia Landing were destroyed by Federal forces. What appears to be a crater from an explosion is evident at the site of the Terminal building at the end of the railroad bed. Bricks are still scattered over the site.

Tuscumbia Landing fell into disuse after the war until World War I led Congress to authorize the building of two nitrate plants to provide a domestic source of nitrates for munitions production. More on that later in the proper chronology.

Long time Sheffield Historian, Richard Sheridan compiled and submitted a successful application to add Tuscumbia Landing to the National Register of Historic Places. Gail King who was President of the Alabama Chapter of the Trail of Tears Association and other members published an extensive report on the Tuscumbia, Courtland and Decatur Railroad in 2009. In 2011, in her role with the Southeastern Anthropological Institute, Gail along with Hunter Johnson published a report of a study of Tuscumbia Landing funded by the Alabama Department of Transportation. In addition to the historical record, it included results of archaeological surveys done using ground penetrating radar, areal laser imagery and other techniques. Gails efforts led to the National Park Service certifying Tuscumbia Landing as an official site on the National Trail of Tears. They later developed a plan to develop it as an interpretive site. "Jacksonland" by Steve Inskeep is a book about the conflict between Andrew Jackson and Cherokee Chief John Ross over the fate of the Cherokee Nation and their lands in the Southeastern United States. It includes a description of the founding of Florence and the European American settlement of our area. I asked Sheffield Public Library to add a copy to their collection.

These events that preceded the founding of Sheffield still influence our current condition and future opportunities. The National Park Service has designated Tuscumbia Landing an official Trail of Tears site and developed a plan to develop it as an interpretive site. Details of that project can be found on the "My Plan" page of this site.

Old Railroad Bridge

In 1840, the "new" Old Railroad Bridge was opened for pedestrian and wagon traffic between Florence and what then was Franklin County on the south side of the river. It was upgraded for train traffic in 1858. In 1870 it was rebuilt with the top deck used by the Memphis and Charleston Railroad Company and the bottom deck used by the public.

Old Railroad Bridge in 1907 Trolley on the Old RR Bridge in 1937

When O'Neal bridge was opened in 1939, the bottom deck was removed and the bridge was only used for rail. The last train crossed the bridge in 1988. In 1993, The Old Railroad Bridge Company, Inc. acquired the bridge from Norfolk Southern Railroad. They raised funds and trough hard work and persistence, restored the historic span to its current condition. Several years ago they applied for and received an Transportation Enhancement Grant to fund installing a platform at the end of the bridge to enhance its use by the public. Transportation Enhancement grants are federally funded and the money can only be used by a government entity. The ORBC approached the City of Sheffield about taking ownership of the bridge but the administration in office at the time declined. I recognized what a great attraction the bridge is for Sheffield and that it could be even better. The problem was that the bridge was not in the city limits and how to gain clear title to the part that extended into river and into Lauderdale County was in question. I worked with Representative Marcel Black and Senator Tammy Irons to draft a local act of the state legislature that annexed the bridge into the city of Sheffield. The act passed and Sheffield's borders now include the bridge and extend into Lauderdale County. I also got the bridge included in a Shoals area wide bike and pedestrian system plan developed by NACOLG. If we can get TVA approval, the bridge could be connected to Patton Island to create a unique trail system feature. Negotiations to transfer ownership of the bridge to the city while protecting the interests of the Old Railroad Bridge Company were not successful. Nevertheless, the bridge is now a Sheffield attraction and the City provides support. I will continue to support the Old Railroad Bridge Company and work with them to expand and improve the features this important historical site offers.

More information can be found a the website of the Old Railroad Bridge Company at http://oldrailroadbridge.com/ .

Sheffield's Founding and industrial origins

Sheffield was incorporated on February 17, 1885 by Industrialists and Land Developers who wanted to take advantage of iron ore and coal deposits in north Alabama. Iron blast furnaces were constructed and operated at Furnace Hill on the western border of the city from 1887 through 1926. Enoch Ensley built two furnaces, the Lady Ensley and the Hattie Ensley, named for his wife and daughter. Enoch Ensley played a major role in establishing the iron industry in Birmingham which was founded around the same time as Sheffield. Ensley the To facilitate transport of raw materials and finished product, the railroad tracks were extended from Tuscumbia past the mills, through downtown Sheffield and then south to Birmingham. The railroad tracks still bisect the city but the yard, shops and jobs along Shop Pike are long gone.

During these early years, the population grew rapidly. At the 1890 census, there were 2,731 residents. By 1900 there was a 22% increase to 3,333. During the next decade, the population more than doubled to 6,682. It was during these first three decades that the historic residential district north of downtown developed. Many of the stately Victorian and Queen Anne houses still stand but more modern houses and apartment buildings infiltrated over the years.

Sheffield's water plant was built in 1903. It has received many upgrades but sill exists in the original location. The first power plant was also built in 1903. It was coal fired. The site was later converted for use as a Naval Reserve station. It was the second location of Muscle Shoals Sound Studios and now houses Cypress Moon Production's movie sound studios and offices.

World War I , Nitrate Plants and the Village

The years between 1917 and 1925 saw significant change in Sheffield. The United States imported nitrates from Chile for use in the production of munitions. There was no domestic nitrate production capacity. German sabotage targeted munitions the US manufactured for shipment to the Allies before we entered the war. The most prominent was the detonation of munitions on Black Tom Island off the New Jersey coast near Manhatten and the Statue of Liberty. The blast destroyed munitions worth $20 million at the time or nearly $400 million at today's valuation. The Germans also engaged in unrestricted submarine warfare that threatened the shipments of nitrates from Chile. In 1917, Congress authorized the building of two nitrate plants They had to be located at least 400 miles from the cost to deter sabotage and a potential power source had to be readily available. Sheffield met the requirenents and was chosen. Nitrate plant #1 one was built west of the city next to Furnace Hill and at Tuscumbia Landing. Nitrate Plant #2 was built on what is now the TVA reservation. Nitrate Plant #1 used an experimental process designed by German chemist Fritz Haber that was stolen by British esponage agents. Plant #2 used a more conventional process. Nitrate Plant #1 included what is now the Constellium plant and the Lumber One buildings on West 20th Avenue. The foundations of two nitrate crystalization facilities are located at Tuscumbia Landing. The two nitrate plants were completed just as WWI was ending. The Habler process used at Plant #1 proved to be ineffective. Both plants were mothballed before producing any significant amounts of nitrates. Construction of Wilson Dam was authorized at the same time as the Nitrate Plants to serve as their power source. Because of this project, Sheffield's population doubled between 1910 and 1920 to 6,682.

Nitrate Village I was a planned community consisting of eighty-five bungalow style houses, a school and officers barracks that the War Department built west of Nitrate Plant #1. Village I is an innovative development. It's design includes the shape of the Liberty Bell. The school has mechanical automatic flushing toilets and a fire proof film projection booth. It's a beautiful building that deserves preservation. During my first term I got a grant from the Colbert County Community Development Committee and had funds budgeted to repair numerous roof leaks; replace the rusted out gutters and downspouts; clear the storm drains; restore rotted porch roof supports; and paint windows. Much more needs to be done to get the building in useable condition but it's worth whatever it takes to save it. The original streetlights were still in place when I grew up in the Village in the 1950s and 1960s. They gradually disappeared but were restored around the bell during the Alabama Bicentennial and Centennial celebration of the Nitrate Village I. My goal is to have them restored throughout the rest of the original Village. Village I is an architectural treasure that is worthy of restoration and preservation. It is a cultural tourism site that should and can be promoted. Recently, concerned residents of the Village who have long worked to preserve the school formed the Village School Foundation. I fully support their efforts and helped to implement an Memorandum of Understanding between the City and the VSF to formally allow them access to the school to make improvements and put the school into use for the benefit of the community. A suggestion that the school be converted to apartments has been mentioned recently. I think it would be a shame to loose the beautiful auditorium and the amazing internal architectural features. The school needs to be restored for use by the community.

Construction of Nitrate Village #1 was halted when WWI ended and operation of the plants stopped. More elements were part of the original design including a hospital and commercial area. It was meant to be a completely standalone community. An article from Architectural Digest about the original plans for the Village is at the following link:

https://documentcloud.adobe.com/link/track?uri=urn:aaid:scds:US:58ff85a6-afc4-48ca-a159-b93ef7a9aef0

Henry Ford attempted to lease or purchase Wilson Dam and build a second Detroit in the mid 1920s. It brought much attention to the area and rampant land speculation. John Nyhoff of New York bought land on the east side of Sheffield and developed the commercial and residential property there during this time. By 1924, Ford's plans had fallen through. With construction of Wilson Dam completed and the advent of the Great Depression, Sheffield's population declined by 6.9% between 1920 and 1930 to 6,221.

TVA was formed in 1933. The act passed by Congress called for the headquarters to be in this area. It's apparent that the act that authorized the Nitrate plants laid the groundwork for TVA. The presence of Wilson Dam and the hydroelectric power it provided stimulated economic growth and set the pattern for TVA's hydroelectric system development and the huge growth seen throughout the Tennessee Valley. We can be considered the birthplace of TVA even if we lost the headquarters to Knoxville.

By 1940 expansion by TVA and construction of the Reynolds Metals plants and other industry caused a resurgence and the population grew by over 27% between 1930 and 1940. Sheffield continued to flourish, growing by over 35% in the decade ending in 1950 to 10,767. During the 1950' and 1960's, Sheffield was the commercial center of Colbert County. Downtown was thriving. In the late 1950's and 1960's Bill Sanford and his partners in Associated Developers began developing Rivermont, the premier residential subdivision in the county if not the whole Shoals area. Sheffield was the place to shop and the place to live in Colbert County.

Also in the 1950s, the Constellium Plant that was owned by Reynolds Metals at the time participated in the Jupiter rocket program under Dr. Werhner von Braun. The housing of the rocket was produced here and was a major contribution to the early space program.

In 1953, the state wanted to widen US 43 which ran through the downtowns of Tuscumbia and Sheffield. The city fathers at the time didn't want the disruption to businesses widening the highway would cause and the decision was made to relocate US 43 east of town through Muscle Shoals. At the time there were few residents or businesses in Muscle Shoals. I'm not even sure if there was a red light. Children that lived in Muscle Shoals attended Sheffield Junior High and Sheffield High School into the 1960's. In 1960, Sheffield had a population of 13,491 or about the population of Muscle Shoals, now.

Muscle Shoals Sound In Sheffield

Probably the most renowned element of Sheffield's history is the contribution made to the amazing recording industry success in the Shoals area. The hit records recorded in Sheffield during the 1960s and 1970s contribute substantially to American musical culture. It's an interesting commentary on the nature of The Shoals to point out that FAME Studio in Muscle Shoals started in Florence as Florence Alabama Music Enterprises and Muscle Shoals Sound Studio where many of the great hits were recorded is in Sheffield.

The musical heritage of Sheffield and the Shoals started long before the recording studios became prominent. Elvis, Johnny Cash and others played early in their careers at the Sheffield Community Center that now is part of Park Place. Sheffield High graduate Hollis Dixon was inspired by an Elvis performance to form his band the Keynotes, Hollis Dixon and the Keynotes was where many of the session musicians that made the studios in Sheffield and the Shoals so successful got their start. In 1962 Rick Hall recorded Sheffield native and resident Arthur Alexander's "You Better Move On" and began the huge success that was to follow.

When a recording session at Fame with Aretha Franklin fell through, Atlantic Records President Jerry Wexler helped Sheffield natives Jimmy Johnson, David Hood and fellow Swampers Barry Beckett and Roger Hawkins start Muscle Shoals Sound Studio at 3614 Jackson Highway. I won't attempt to do justice to their huge success, here. All you have to do is Google Muscle Shoals Sound to find record of their great success at the original location and the second location at 1000 Alabama Avenue. There were several other studios in Sheffield during the peak of the recording activity including Quinvy Studio on 2nd Street where Quin Ivy recorded Percy Sledge singing "When a Man Loves a Woman".

Our profound music recording heritage continues today at Grammy winning Jimmy Nutt's Nutthouse Studio. Sheffield is still home to many talented musicians and songwriters including Grammy winner Gary Baker and perennial CMA Musician of the Year Mac McAnally. Inspiration Landing will feature our amazing musical heritage and hopefully inspire new talent to emerge in Sheffield.

Challenges and opportunities

In the 1960's and 1970's, urban sprawl was the trend all over the United States. When people moved to the suburbs, they wanted to shop near where they lived leading to the popularity of shopping malls. In 1968, Southgate Mall was built in Muscle Shoals adjacent to the US 43/US 72 traffic corridor. Town Plaza Shopping Center was built in Sheffield about the same time. Sheffield quickly began to lose it's downtown retail business to the mall and shopping strips. Woodward Avenue blossomed and Muscle Shoals thrived while the downtowns of Sheffield and Tuscumbia languished. When Wal-Mart built in Muscle Shoals, it drew even more business out of Sheffield. In 1979, when Regency Square Mall was built in Florence, shopping patterns shifted again. This time Muscle Shoals was the victim. Shopping at Southgate Mall declined and, now, it's a Walgreen's call center. Muscle Shoals still has Wal-Mart and the heavy traffic along Woodward Avenue so their sales tax base is still strong.

For a long time, Sheffield's problems were poorly understood and too little was done to deal with the consequences. In the last comprehensive plan that was produced in 1979, despite acknowledging an estimated 9.4% population decline between 1970 and 1975, they forecast an increase of 10.7% by 2000. The chart below shows that the opposite is what actually occurred. The decade of the 1980's was the worst in Sheffield's history with a 12.8% population decline.

Today, there are many reasons for optimism that Sheffield will reverse its decline and, again, grow and prosper. Progress has been made to address our problems and their consequences. Improving the city's appearance needs to be a top priority with more people focused on it. With strong support, City Boards can do more to contribute to our progress. Nuisance property ordinances can be enforced more consistently. Enhancements to some of our gateway roads into the city have produced positive results. Completing the Cox Boulevard project will be a great improvement. New businesses are opening and developers are recognizing opportunities that weren't apparent before. The streetscape improvements downtown have stimulated building renovations and inspired property owners to improve the appearance of their property. The Tuscumbia Landing Trail of Tears project will attract many historical tourists to Sheffield. The Inspiration Landing Furnace Hill project is progressing despite many obstacles. It will transform our economy when completed and we emerge from the Covid-19 pandemic. The future looks bright for the City of Sheffield.

Much of the information I got for this brief history I learned from our long distinguished City Historian, Richard Sheridan. Any errors and omissions are all mine. A publication by the Friends of the Sheffield Library called "Sheffield - City on the Bluff -1885 - 1985" is a great source of a more detailed history. Copies are available at the library.

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