You are getting bubbles because you are spraying too heavily, moving the can too slowly across the surface, spraying from too close a distance or any combination of the three. There is too much paint getting to the surface, it's pooling and dissolved propellant in the paint is outgassing, forming bubbles. The surface of the paint is skinning and the bubbles have no way to escape.
Move the can parallel to the surface - maintain the same distance for each pass of the can. Do not cover the area by twisting your wrist - swing your enitre forearm from your elbow using a smooth, even, continouos motion. Begin the spray before you reach the subject and continue past before releasing the button (this prevents "spatters" of paint landing on your model).
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Spray cans deliver a lot of paint very quickly, but don't try to cover in a single coat. Apply multiple thin coats rather than a single heavy coat. Start with a light "mist" coat, allow to dry (about an hour or so) and repeat. Repeat this process again before applying a "wet" coat.
Firstly, decide whether the overall paintjob is worth keeping - ie. is the bubbling minor/major, restricted to only a few spots or widespread? If it's going to require a lot of sanding and/or of moulded detail is at risk from sanding, you may be better off stripping the entire paint job. Instructions on how to do this can be found in the painting forum.
If you do decide to take the sanding route, I would start with about a 600 grit (used wet) and work gently. This may take a little time. Once the bubbling is eliminated, move to a higher grit (also used wet) and work the scratch marks out. If necessary, repeat with a higher grit .
What is your opinion on what brand of spray paint from a rattle can do you think is best? I love the Duplicolor primer but I was wondering about their Perfect Match spray paint and Perfect Match clear coat. Does Duplicolor have something better than their Perfect Match product line that you would recommend? If you were going to use spray paint from a can what would you guys recommend? I know a lot of people on here like Tamiya spray paint and Tamiya clear and I was wondering how it compares to the Duplicolor three part system (primer, Perfect Match color, and Perfect Match clear). My other question is, I have never used a clear coat before and I was wondering what the process is? Do you clear coat first and then foil the car? Also, do you do your detail painting (emblems, front grill, engine compartment parts like the battery) after you clear coat? If you get paint on an area you didn't intend to while detail painting how do you fix it? Do you wipe it away immediately with mineral spirits for enamels, and water or alcohol for acrylics?
To me,the best spray can paint is Tamiya without a doubt. Their metallic paints can't be beat as far as the scale of the metallic. When I first tried laquers,I used some Dupli Color a couple of times,but after I tried the Tamiya paint,I was hooked! For primer,I won't use anything but Plasti Kote.
Yeah Rick, I use the sandable primer. To me,it's the best primer out there for my purposes. It sprays,sands and fills in very well and doesn't build up. I'm tempted to try their paints on a body sometime. I use their engine enamel on my Ford engines. I gotta pick some up for my Chevy engines also and I'll be set for life.
Plastikote sandable here as well, goes on like Tamiya, just cheaper,you get twice as much, and more color options. I get mine at Advance Auto in my area, sometimes they have a buy one get one sale Just call around to the automotive parts and/or paint stores in your yellow pages....someone is bound to stock it
I'll give Testors and Tamiya credit for making great paint. Because of the cost (4-6x the cost of regular rattle cans)I've only used them a few times for odd colors I couldn't find elsewhere but everytime I have they have worked great.
As far as regular paint, I rate Krylon at the top (the regular stuff, not Fusion), it dries quickly, covers well and is very forgiving of minor errors. Krylon Fusion is ok, but even though it is made for plastic, I don't find it works quite as well as the regular stuff.
I also use quite a bit of Rustolium, Duplicolor and occasionally Plasticote. I don't have an issue with any of them, but don't find them quite as user friendly as Krylon. You really have to watch the Duplicolor engine enamels which are thicker than the regular paint colors.
Tamiya makes a great product - sprays on smooth and glossy. I have found it to be somewhat fragile for me (if your not clumsy, it may not make a difference). Clearcoating helps protect the painted finish but seems I always tap a corner or something while sanding and chip the paint.
I have just started using the duplicolor paints and have to say they are great. The paint comes out nice and even and they have nice nozzles. I have found they are more durable than the Tamiya paints - my usual dropping and bumping does not result in the same chipping. They are cheaper by volume as you get almost 3 times more paint for the price. The duplicolor clear also works nicely and I have been experimenting with it on spoons - it polishes out great.
I use and like both the plastikote and duplicolor primer. Sandable is great for the first couple coats but sometimes goes on too heavy - that's its purpose. You can go to Plastikote's webiste and search for retailers in your area as it is more limited than duplicolor.
I also have used the Testors lacquers and they work great - although the ones I have used seem to have a lot more pressure than the other brands (could be my imagination) and load the paint on - so be careful I guess.
What line of Duplicolor base paint do you use? All I seem to find is their Perfect Match automotive paint. Is that any good? Do you clear coat the Duplicolor or do you just polish it out. I'm finding what you say about the Tamiya paint being delicate true with Tamiya paint and Model Master.
I use the Perfect Match Duplicolor - it is an acrylic lacquer made for automotive use. I clear it as the metallic paints don't have a shine. When applying, I have found you need thin, mist layers. With Tamiya, I usually do a few mist coats followed by a heavier wet coat. When I tried that with Duplicolor, the flakes in the metallic paint bunched up along edges.
What was the process you used on your latest project? Did you sand in between coats of base paint? If so, what grits did you use and how long did you wait for dry time between coats of paint? Did you do any sanding after your final color coat? If so up to what grit did you use? Did you spray your Krylon crystal clear over any of the foil or decals you may have done? Can you apply foil and decals over the crystal clear? Finally, after you clear coat with crystal clear, do you have to polish it after it dries(sanding up to 12,000 grit and then using a rubbing compound) or do you just leave it alone? I'm sorry if I sound like I'm interrogating you but I'm just trying to pick your brain so I can improve my own techniques. I feel totally lost and confused sometimes.
10. If needed, sand color coat. If you get dust, hairs, etc, get rid of them now. Clear won't hide anything. I sanded through he color coat on the trunk area on my last build (arrr) - to remedy, I masked off just the trunk area to avoid over spray and paint edges.
13. Begin wet sanding - crystal clear is tough but, for me, prone to orange peal. I use a polishing kit and start at the most coarse ( coarsest?) grit need to smooth the orange peal. Then just work, wet, through all the grits. It is wet, tiring, and boring - but I love doing it.
Again, this is different for all paints and also varied depending on humidity (I live in a dry place) paint thickness, etc. so you may need to adjust times. This is just the process from my last build. 152ee80cbc
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