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For sports photography, an R7 is going to outperform any enthusiast DSLR in focus acquisition speed as well as tracking. This is due primarily to its enhanced AF and software algorithms which are superior to a standard DSLR. Only a 1 series DSLR could compare here.

The R7 will perform at its best in daylight, but can do well at indoor / outdoor venues in the evening if they have adequate light. Having a fast lens is the differentiator. It's key to low light night time sports photography. The wider aperture allows you to use a fast enough shutter speed to capture the action without having to increase your ISO to the point of graininess. You'll want to shoot with the fastest lens possible, and be as close as you can to the action.

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The 80D is a capable camera and the advice about the lens being the key component leads us to a new lens. 200mm isn't really enough FL for outdoor sports. The ef 70-200mm f2.8l is great and goto lens for indoor sports for sure.

Anyway before you buy a new lens do have the 80D serviced because as you say if there are camera problems buying or repairing may make the decision to upgrade for you. Otherwise I would check out one of the super zoom 150-600mm lenses form Sigma and Tamron. "... mostly outside sports (5-7pm, lights, snow, light rain, etc)" The Tamron G2 may have the advantage here if that statement is true. It is better weather sealed than the Sigma C model. The Sigma Sport is a battle tank but twice as expensive and more than twice as heavy. It is what I use personally.

Recently I went to a Little League baseball game and shot with my Canon 5D Mark III and my newly purchased, 300mm f/4 L IS. It was the first time shooting sports with my new camera, so I was eager to see how the body would perform as well as the lens.

Honestly, the 5D Mark III and 300mm f/4L IS was an amazing combination for shooting sports. The camera was nice and the lens performed flawlessly. It made sports photography a lot easier for me than previously, when I shot with the 70-200 f/4.

is the sports-loving photographer, and founder of Youth Sports Photography Guide, a popular sports photography blog. He provides insanely practical tips that people like you can use to take professional sports photos. He also runs a popular Canon lens video review channel.

As I am sure every FujiLove reader is aware, Fujifilm recently unveiled the X-T3, the successor to the very successful X-T2 and the latest in a growing line of X Series Compact System Cameras. Like many other Fujifilm users I was waiting with anticipation for this next step in the evolution of the X Series as it promised a great deal for my work as a working sports photographer.

I need to mention the video side of the X-T3 as I shoot moving images a lot for my work. The 60fps for shooting 4K is excellent, and the addition of Eterna to the film simulation modes is also a welcome addition. The increase from 8 bit to 10 bit colour depth will also be a welcome addition for anyone who shoots video and takes the video aspect of the X Series to the next level.

Indoor sports is one the most difficult of photographic genres in which to control noise, Most people's attempts at indoor sports shots end up noisy, because of the combination of low light and fast shutter speeds.

So to minimise noisiness of your indoor sports images, you want to make the shutter as slow as possible without introducing motion blur, and make the aperture as wide as possible. Camera bodies with larger sensors, and lenses with wider maximum apertures will produce better results. Hotdog123's examples are relatively noise-free because he used a camera with a large sensor, and a relatively wide aperture of f/2.8.

The digital noise you are seeing in your indoor sports photos are the result of high ISO settings required to allow you to use the desired shutter speed to freeze motion. An exposure can be described by three variables: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. When shooting sports, shutter speed is the prime variable, as it needs to be fast enough to freeze action, typically 1/500 or something like that. To get an adequate exposure, you will need to open up the aperture and crank up the ISO (amplification). High ISOs will result in more digital noise. To reduce the noise, you need to use the maximum aperture possible, and the minimum shutter speed that will adequately freeze action. With a slow (f/5.6) lens, you may have no choice but to tolerate high ISO noise. The only way to improve things in this case is to acquire faster glass (e.g. f/2.8 or f/4 lenses) that will allow 1-2 stops less exposure, and therefore 1/2 or 1/4 of the ISO setting.

It's all about the photons. If you capture more photons (wider apertures), longer exposure) you need less amplification. But for sports you can't really go for longer exposure, so wider apertures is where you need to go to reduce high ISO noise.

When shooting sports, shutter speed is the prime variable, as it needs to be fast enough to freeze action, typically 1/500 or something like that. To get an adequate exposure, you will need to open up the aperture and crank up the ISO (amplification).

As the yearbook advisor of Wauconda High School, I can say that Visual Image Photography, Inc is a joy to work with. Their photographers go out of their way to make sure the photos taken are what we, the customer, want. They go above and beyond to make sure to get the best shots. The customer service aspect of VIP is amazing. I telephoned at 6 pm on a Tuesday night with a request and had an answer and access to the information I needed within a half-hour. Another time, there was a scheduling change made by my school that I was not aware of until the night of the event, and our customer service representative came out herself personally to shoot the event because she was available. Very few other companies I have ever worked with have provided the customer with such attention and care. Everyone at VIP goes out of their way to make sure our school is completely taken care of in every aspect from events to sports to senior portraits. I would recommend VIP to any school.

Empire Photography produces sports images for youth organizations that you can usually only find at the college and professional levels. We provide an efficient approach to picture day, quality photography, and a winning playbook for your sports program success.

Empire has been providing quality high school sports photography since its inception. We realize that you have a lot of choices when it comes to choosing a photographer to take your high school sports photos; when you choose Empire Photography, we work to ensure you never second guess that decision.

Capturing the action of a thrilling sports event, whether it is football, rugby league, soccer, tennis and everything in between, is a wonderful feeling for all involved. But just how can we get those shots we see in the magazines and newspapers?

In sports photography, you want to ensure that the shutter speed on your camera is fast enough to capture the quick moving bodies of the athletes. A shutter speed of at least 1/500th of a second is required to freeze movement. Try not to go below 1/500th of a second.

(There are lots of other things sports photographers consider such as focus systems, FPS/continuous shooting, monopods to support heavy lenses, weather sealing and shooting multiple bodies to use multiple lenses at once. But that's a question for another day.)

When shooting sports in low light you're not going to be able to shoot at f/11. Most of us use f/2.8 lenses and shoot wide open. We do this not only because it helps isolate our subject(s) from backgrounds that are often cluttered but also because we need the "speed" of the wide aperture to allow a fast enough shutter speed. I typically shoot night/indoor sports using Manual exposure mode at ISO 3200-5000, f/2.8 (or wider with a faster prime lens), and 1/500-1/1250 second.

In most sport activities, one of the teams is wearing white jerseys. Ideally, one should expose so that the white jerseys are right at, but not past, the point of saturation. One can use any of the metering modes as long as one understands how that mode "sees" what parts of the scene and how that will affect the metering result. With "Evaluative" metering (Canon's more or less equivalent to Nikon's "Matrix" metering), when shooting night sports outdoors I tend to start with settings at about -1 stop exposure compensation. If spot metering the white jerseys, they should be somewhere between about +1 1/2 to +2.

ISI Photos specializes in high-end sports photography and offers a robust, searchable database with exclusive image content to its commercial and editorial clients, which include Pepsi, VISA, Nike, Unilever, Chevrolet, PBS, Scholastic Books, Sports Illustrated... Read more >> e24fc04721