Soap Lye Calculator Download

Unlike other lye calculators, the HSCG Lye Calculator shows the expected range of the saponification value (SAP Value) of each oil and the actual SAP Value being used in the calculations. This information delivers a more accurate result.

Disclaimer: The Handcrafted Soap & Cosmetic Guild is providing this lye calculator to soapmakers free of charge. Every effort has been made to ensure that the SAP values used herein are accurate. However, even in the best case, the SAP values provided by reputable sources are only acceptable ranges for each oil. The actual SAP value being used in the calculations is the average of the highest and the lowest acceptable level for an oil and is generally considered the norm for calculating the lye necessary for soap. However, the actual SAP value of any batch of a particular oil may be somewhat higher or lower than the value used in the calculations here (even if it falls within the acceptable range). That all being said, the HSCG is not responsible for any injuries, losses or other damages that may result from using the information provided herein.

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There is a little science that everybody needs to know when they start on their soap making journey but although it sounds a little intimidating it really is not and you definitely do not need to been science minded at all.

When natural butters and oils are mixed with NaOH (aka lye or caustic soda) and water a process called saponification occurs and those 3 basic ingredients are converted into soap! Yes, that really is all soap is! Bizarrely oils can be turned into a product which then breaks down and washes oils off! I love the idea we can use the power of plants that grow on our planet to keep ourselves clean and healthy.

Different oils and butters require different quantities of NaOH to turn them in to soap - it is essential that the correct quantity is used or your soap may be lye heavy and dangerous to use or have too many free floating oils which may cause it to be too soft or become rancid. You do need a little understanding of this process to ensure you only make soap that is safe to use.

To begin with, it is always easiest to find a tried and tested recipe to make - there are plenty of options on the internet and I have included a basic human and dog soap recipe below - but once you are confident to try and formulate your own recipes it is essential that you run the figures through a lye calculator. My favourite is

Use it every time you try a new recipe - even if you copy one from a book or the internet - there is always the possibility of a misprint and you do not want a failed batch of soap or worse, caustic soap. If you swap an oil for another in a recipe you must recalculate it as it will almost certainly have a different saponification value. It looks a little complicated but you can find a short video showing you exactly how to use the soap calc version here

Miller's Homemade Soap Pages: Design *Your Own* Recipe! *APOLOGY* ... to those of you who have emailed me this year (2012) and have never heard a peep out of me... I'm sorry. I don't have as much time for personal email responses as I once did and added to that have been a couple of trips, a surgery, garden catch-up, church responsibilities, soapmaking and orders and more visits from children and grandchildren who have moved nearby. I just can't keep up. If your email involved troubleshooting of a recipe or a lengthy response, it was probably put aside for when there was more time and then fell through the cracks because "more time" didn't happen. :-/ I don't see that changing through the end of 2012. I hope you understand and know I would love to be able to acknowledge every email I get.

The first consideration in designing yoursoap recipe is that the balance of lye to fats be correct so that youwill have a mild end product. This is determined by thesaponification values of the oils. Elaine White has been verygenerous in providing this useful information to people via herwebsite. Her chart is widely accepted, but some people think thatrelying on it alone can yield a harsher soap than using the LyeCalculator at Majestic Mountain Sage (Link Below) which displays theamount needed for a milder product. You can use either...but measurecarefully if you're using the original saponificationnumbers.

In the chart below I have put up theoriginal SAP numbers (Elaine's) and a second set that has a built-incushion of 5% extra fat. People whomake soap all the time sometimes come up with their own favoritenumbers, but this will give you something fairly reliable to workfrom if you don't want to go online every time you create a recipe.If you want to add a bit of superfatting oil at the end, you shouldstill be able to do that with the lighter numbers, but I wouldn't getcarried away since some superfatting is already there.

tag_hash_110____________________________,take the amount of fat you plan to use in your recipe (in ounces) andmultiply it by the decimal number assigned to that type of fat. Theresulting answer will be the amount of lye needed (in ounces). Youcan round your numbers up when you finish calculating them, but I'dwait and round up the whole thing after adding the numbers for eachfat you are using in your recipe.) If you are combining fats, you canadd the results of the calculations and see how close it comes to thestandard 12 ounces of lye that come in a can (I don't like measuringlye crystals or having partial cans left over so the ideal recipe forme will use 12 ounces...if you are buying lye in bulk, this will notbe a concern for you). Adjust your fats accordingly. At least 1/4 ofyour fat content should be a fat that is hard at room temperature butthis is not written in stone. When designing your own recipe, a ruleof thumb for the water used is approx. 1/3 of the total weight of thefats (in other words, add up the weight of the fats and oils anddivide that by 3 for the ounces of water needed). Many people like tohave a small cushion of extra fat in a recipe for mildness andusually strive for about 5-8%. If you use the Majestic Mountain SageLye Calculator link below, it will make that easier. Here is alist of most of the fats you might think to try in your soap, and afew others you may never want to use! ...

Soap RecipeSpreadsheet Template! - This isa wonderful tool shared by Chris Mathes and is shown on the index ofthe soapmaking pages. You can download this spreadsheet to your owncomputer if you have the right software and use it to calculate yourown recipes. A big thanks to Chris for fine tuning and sharing thisresource with us! :-)

I guess you could figure it this way. It will take a given amountof lye to completely saponify an ounce of a certain fat...with noexcess lye or fat left over. This is what the numbers are based on.If you want a cushion of extra fat so that it's milder, you build itin by having 5% more fat in the recipe than you have lye to saponifyit...5% excess fat. You can either add on more fat, or subtract somelye...but in the end you want about 5% difference (some people wanteven more), with the fat being higher. SO, if you figure out how muchlye it takes to get it to be a perfect saponification (with no extraof either)...then you take that number and multiply it by .95 (95%),you would then have the amount of lye you want for that 5% cushion.Am I just confusing you more? So, if my recipe said 12 ounces wouldperfectly saponify the fats, I would multiply 12 oz. X .95 = 11.4 oz.of lye. If I used 11.4 ounces for that recipe, I would end up with itbeing a 5% discount and would have extra fat in the recipe by thatamount. This is more to protect us from errors than anything(measuring types). You can still do a little bit more superfattingwith a 5% discount and be okay, but if you get too carried away, yoursoap could be kind of soft or a bit spongy. The MMS lye calculator isnice because it gives you the measurements in the three areas(although the one that says "proceed with caution" would be fine ifyou are totally accurate in your measurements).

What complicates this a bit more, is that there is more than oneSAP table out there. Elaine White came up with the first one and itis a bit on the higher side for the amount of lye it recommends (andlaboratory conditions and the quality of fats can change the numbersa bit too). It doesn't leave much margin for error. The MajesticMountain Sage people have a slightly altered SAP chart they use fortheir calculator (don't know exactly how much...but on some of theoils used most often, their numbers are a bit different) and theyalso show you the quantities you need for certain amounts of excessfat in your recipe. I put up the chart above so that I could usenumbers with the 5% built in and figure the recipes without MMSonline calculator if I needed to. When I've figured the recipe withmilder numbers and the 5% built in, I don't worry about superfattingat the end...unless I put in a tiny amount of castor or vitamin E. orsomething.

You can superfat in any number of ways and I don't think it'smagical to just add it at the end, assuming it won't get saponified.If the saponification was completed that soon, we could use the soapas soon as it got hard without aging it (like when you cook it). Ifyour superfatting agents have special qualities you want to retain(like vit. E.) then it might be worth adding them at the end whenthere's not as much free lye present, but for the other oils, I justadd them up front and do the recipe with a 5% discount built in.Superfatting in that case is optional.

As previously stated, many soapmakers preferto use the Lye Calculator at Majestic Mountain Sage and feel itssaponification numbers result in a milder soap. This is a GREAT tool,and before you make a recipe, you plug your ingredients into the openfields, hit a button and it will tell you how much lye is needed forthe amount of fats you are using. It is recommended that you makeyour soap with an extra 5-8% fat to be sure that it will be mild. Ifyou are adding a lot of fragrance oil to a batch ... like 4oz. or more (essential oils tend to be stronger and have a differentcomposition, so probably not a problem in this regard), you may notwant it to be overly superfatted in addition...this may contribute tosome soaps oozing glycerin while curing). e24fc04721