Smart Switch Indir

I have a portable audio recording system that uses a Dante network on a Netgear GS310TP Smart Switch. I occasionally need to interface this system to an existing Dante network to get what is essentially a Dante audio split from an existing "House" audio system. The last time this happened was at a local theater and according to the house engineer he couldn't connect to my existing network because I was using a "Smart" switch, so we had to tear my system apart and use 3 separate CAT6 cables to put all of my gear directly on his network for it to work. This solution was obviously not ideal.

He mentioned that if my switch was "Dumb" he would have been able to just plug my switch into his network and everything would work on my system like normal. Is that the correct method of doing this and if so what needs to be changed on my switch to make it "Dumb" and enable me to just connect my system to his without tearing it apart?

Smart Switch Indir

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I need to buy a smart switch to be able to switch a power cable (via Wifi) that leads into the garden (to be connected to sockets there). The switch can be installed inside (in a new distribution box, together with a fuse), so space requirements are not an issue.

I have 2 hs210 switches at the beginning and end of a series of switches, with a dumb switch in the middle, with 2 black and 2 red wires and 1 ground. If i turn off the middle switch it cuts power to the last hs210. So you cant use 2 3-way switches in a 4way setup? Both hs210s are setup as a pair but if the middle switch is turned off, the light will not work.

@NorCalRicky I have a four way setup. At first I installed two HS210 switches but realized only one is required. So I have standard three way, a standard four-way and an HS210 on the circuit and they all work (although the HS210 does not detect when I turn on the light using the four way switch. So it is possible you just have to get the wires right.

I have a similar issue with a three way setup. When I replaced the one or the two HS210 switches with a standard three way switch that standard switch turns off power to the HS210. I need to figure out the correct wiring.

OK, I have the same question....or similar anyway. It is not clear to me from any of the literature or postings here how many HS210's I need to control a simple 4-way circuit. Actually it might not be considered "simple" as it is a single group of lights controlled from 7 different locations. However, it should still be simple in that it simply uses 2 standard 3-way switches, one on either end, with five 4-way switches in the middle. The concept is the same regardless of the number of control locations.....you replace one of the standard 3-way switches with a HS210. Right? Or, do you have to replace BOTH standard 3-way switches with HS210's....requiring two HS210's? This is unclear. I am seeing both methods suggested here. I would assume you only needed to replace one. But I tried that and it didn't work. The HS210 kept clicking the lights on and off at about a two second interval. I was sure I had it wired right, (I'm wiring it at the "line" end of the circuit where the power first enters) but tried changing the configuration.....still, same result. I tried the 3rd possibility and now nothing worked...I abandoned the project to do more research.....with no success...so now I'm here. The Kasa app actually makes this more complicated than it needs to be....or it's so simplified that I don't understand it. It does seem to maybe imply that I need two HS210's (or does it?). It's not like I don't have some electrical experience.....I actually wired this whole house 20 years ago including this 7 switch light circuit. A simple actual wiring diagram would be helpful.

@dmd4home That suggests that you do not have the correct (constant) line and neutral connected to the appropriate terminals - it seems like you have it powered with switches in a certain configuration and when you switch the output state of the HS210 you are losing power to the device and therefor also the Wifi - regardless of what the outputs are doing, it must maintain line and neutral to the device in order to have the WiFi circuit active.

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Smart Switch 7 is the smart plug that is the essential part of a smart home or smart office. Compatible with the broadest range of Z-Wave software, including AutoPilot and Smart Home Hub, Smart Switch 7 can be intelligently automated, scheduled, and time-use-limited from dozens of certified and compatible gateway systems and apps.

I have a Quirky Tapt smart switch that I paired twice but the "Type" is Device. I don't see Quirky which is also GE listed in the drop down. I tried changing to Generic Zigbee Switch and that didn't work, I know it's a zigbee but I tried the zwave anyway in case I wasn't sure but that didn't work either. I'm not sure what to do next.

Yeah, nothing happens when I hit "Configure" I tried using the Type "Virtual switch" and it turns it on and office via the device and I see it's on/off via the dashboard but it's still not working, when I look at the light, nothing is turning on or off also TBH i'm not sure why or what's the point of the virtual devices.

The Tapt is strange. Here is a tread about using it with Smartthings: Quirky GE Tapt Switch Device Type - Connected Things - SmartThings Community You have to use a custom driver and only the basic on/off function works. The the on/off cluster is on endpoint 2 but the built-in driver trys to use endpoint 1. Also I have never have seen reporting work except for the brief time it worked correctly with Smartthings. I hacked some code together for the one Tapt I have and put it on a light I never physically switch since it does not report changes.

Nothing is supposed to visibly happen when you hit "Configure"; the driver just sends some information to the device that it may need to work properly after a driver change. The only thing you'd need to do afterwards is try and see if it works. From the post below yours and above this one, it sounds like this might not actually work anyway since the Quirky switch is...quirky and might not work like most other Zigbee switches do. The DTH linked to in the above post might work if ported to Hubitat (from looking at it, it looks like it might work verbatim, but no guarantees).

As for virtual devices, they will not help you here. Virtual devices have several uses, but in no case would you use a virtual driver for a "real" device--virtual devices exist only in Hubitat, and you can use them for either testing, working around things that don't work with "real" devices (often no longer needed but once useful for multichannel devices before Hubitat or ST supported child devices), or storing information like using the state of a virtual switch for an automation that can be restricted based on switch state (for example). For example, I have a "Virtual Vacation" switch that I turn on (manually or via voice/Alexa) when I want some of my automations to work differently--e.g., don't turn this smart outlet off at 8 AM like it would if the "vacation switch" were not on. I've used virtual motion sensors to test automations (easier than waiting for a real one to switch between active and inactive). The list goes on.

Dug out my Tapt switches that I picked up on clearance years ago and did the firmware update before the winkwall goes up. 0.1b02/0.0b06 to 0.1b02/0.1b10

Still not sure where I'll use them but, now or never.

It was done automatically, my Tapt switches had never been added to Wink before so they were still at 0.1b02/0.0b06. Once they were added it took a few minutes, they clicked once or twice and then they were updated. One didn't show the update until I removed and re-added it.

If yours are in use and they're not already 0.1b02/0.1b10, check if Zigbee firmware updates has been disabled in your Wink hub settings. Otherwise maybe try removing, resetting and re-adding them. Good luck.

Both of the drivers seem to work, neither one reports status changes back to the hub, which pretty much makes the tapt useless for invoking rules or other side effects. That was a weird animal on Wink too (though it did mostly work). It showed up in odd places as a button and a light switch.

@jmk

Unfortunately this is not possible. Three wires (1Kabel) go from the junction box to the changeover switch. And three wires (1cable) to the lamp and three wires (1cable) to the Tuya Switsch. Where the Tuya was, there used to be a toggle switch.

They could do a sort of relay switch. Aqara makes a relay that works pretty well. Basically, the main power keeps the relay on 24/7 then it lets you plug in the light switch into it, and it will turn the light on or off.

My smart home runs under Hubitat Elevation. It was built in 1969 (no aluminum wiring thankfully) and has no neutrals in the electrical boxes or behind them. Every switch location has only one black wire and one white wire. ff782bc1db