Smart Switch 3.7.40.4 Download

When configuring a new mobile phone we would like to use "samsung swart switch" (we mainly use samsung smartphones and it gives the option at setup). However, when we try this it says: Use of samsung smart switch limited by security policy.

mobile > apps > android > add the samsung smart switch app > edit > Check the mark for use managed configuration > press the + button and allow smart switch run aswell. After you save Smart Switch will be able to do it's thing.

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i have a problem when i setup a new samsung device. i have approved the app "samsung smart switch" in the managed google play account - and send it also back to google. the problem is - there is still a error message when i will start the "samsung smart switch" app - it tells me, that a compliance error - but i dont know how can fix it. there was a discussion 10 months ago - but this doesnt work for me - still the problem.

Here's what I'm trying to do: control three KL110 smart bulbs in my basement laundry area with a HS200 smart switch that is wired to lighting in the finished part of the basement. The smart bulbs are installed in pull-chain fixtures, so the idea is to be able to turn them all on with a switch instead of walking around to turn each one on.

All four devices work fine individually. Here's my problem: I can't get the switch to control the bulbs reliably. I've tried Kasa's "control with a switch" smart action, and Smartthings automations. Both only work to control the bulbs sometimes. It seems that the problem stems from the HS200 not reliably reporting to the app that it was switched manually (either on or off). If I'm watching the app and push the hardware switch manually, it might not switch in the app interface. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't, and this seems to correspond to when it doesn't correctly switch the bulbs.

I would do a general exclusion first (put the hub in exclusion and turn the switch on/ off). Then when you try to include it go to the GE section and select GE on off switch. I have about 30 of them and some are stubborn. Good luck!

I just installed three of these last week and none were just discovered with the broad discover devices tool without help. I had to actually add a specific GE switch under the lighting section and when narrowed down to the type of GE switch and then it was discovered. All three working great.

I have a portable audio recording system that uses a Dante network on a Netgear GS310TP Smart Switch. I occasionally need to interface this system to an existing Dante network to get what is essentially a Dante audio split from an existing "House" audio system. The last time this happened was at a local theater and according to the house engineer he couldn't connect to my existing network because I was using a "Smart" switch, so we had to tear my system apart and use 3 separate CAT6 cables to put all of my gear directly on his network for it to work. This solution was obviously not ideal.

He mentioned that if my switch was "Dumb" he would have been able to just plug my switch into his network and everything would work on my system like normal. Is that the correct method of doing this and if so what needs to be changed on my switch to make it "Dumb" and enable me to just connect my system to his without tearing it apart?

I need to buy a smart switch to be able to switch a power cable (via Wifi) that leads into the garden (to be connected to sockets there). The switch can be installed inside (in a new distribution box, together with a fuse), so space requirements are not an issue.

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I have 2 hs210 switches at the beginning and end of a series of switches, with a dumb switch in the middle, with 2 black and 2 red wires and 1 ground. If i turn off the middle switch it cuts power to the last hs210. So you cant use 2 3-way switches in a 4way setup? Both hs210s are setup as a pair but if the middle switch is turned off, the light will not work.

@NorCalRicky I have a four way setup. At first I installed two HS210 switches but realized only one is required. So I have standard three way, a standard four-way and an HS210 on the circuit and they all work (although the HS210 does not detect when I turn on the light using the four way switch. So it is possible you just have to get the wires right.

I have a similar issue with a three way setup. When I replaced the one or the two HS210 switches with a standard three way switch that standard switch turns off power to the HS210. I need to figure out the correct wiring.

OK, I have the same question....or similar anyway. It is not clear to me from any of the literature or postings here how many HS210's I need to control a simple 4-way circuit. Actually it might not be considered "simple" as it is a single group of lights controlled from 7 different locations. However, it should still be simple in that it simply uses 2 standard 3-way switches, one on either end, with five 4-way switches in the middle. The concept is the same regardless of the number of control locations.....you replace one of the standard 3-way switches with a HS210. Right? Or, do you have to replace BOTH standard 3-way switches with HS210's....requiring two HS210's? This is unclear. I am seeing both methods suggested here. I would assume you only needed to replace one. But I tried that and it didn't work. The HS210 kept clicking the lights on and off at about a two second interval. I was sure I had it wired right, (I'm wiring it at the "line" end of the circuit where the power first enters) but tried changing the configuration.....still, same result. I tried the 3rd possibility and now nothing worked...I abandoned the project to do more research.....with no success...so now I'm here. The Kasa app actually makes this more complicated than it needs to be....or it's so simplified that I don't understand it. It does seem to maybe imply that I need two HS210's (or does it?). It's not like I don't have some electrical experience.....I actually wired this whole house 20 years ago including this 7 switch light circuit. A simple actual wiring diagram would be helpful.

@dmd4home That suggests that you do not have the correct (constant) line and neutral connected to the appropriate terminals - it seems like you have it powered with switches in a certain configuration and when you switch the output state of the HS210 you are losing power to the device and therefor also the Wifi - regardless of what the outputs are doing, it must maintain line and neutral to the device in order to have the WiFi circuit active.

@syepes I'm using your driver but having an issue with power reporting. I have a ticket opened with Aeotec as well. I'm in the US. I'm using the HDSS with an electric dryer (240V). The switch is paired unauthenticated with HE. Everything works fine except energy/power reporting. Every time I start the dryer, I get ~5 power/energy reports and then it drops to 0 for both. I can still get voltage and temp updates though. Powering off the dryer and turning it back on repeats the same cycle (a few reports, then nothing). Any ideas?

So, it's definitely the switch being lazy with reporting. Aeotec support had me turn on reporting for all attributes and set reporting to run every 30 seconds. It's just randomly flipping between sending the power usage and sending a value of 0.

I finally got this fixed. The "fix" was to swap the hot legs around on the appliance side of the switch. Once I did that, I started getting consistent power reports. I had previously swapped the legs around on the input side with no change.

The reason I assume this is that, now that I'm getting the power reports, I can see that when I was getting a report of 0W before, I should have been getting ~470W. The dryer bounces between that and ~5100W when the heating element kicks back on. I assume the dryer only pulls power on one leg when the heating element is off. If that leg isn't the one the switch is set to check first, then you get a report of 0W.

The "fix" was to swap the hot legs around on the appliance side of the switch. Once I did that, I started getting consistent power reports. I had previously swapped the legs around on the input side with no change.

When you say "appliance side," are you meaning "load" side as indicated on the switch? I was under the impression that it needed to be "AC Power" side as indicated in the other linked discussion. Just checking, as I think I have this issue also. I just work around by adding in a longer wait. But, if this fixes that issue, I can reduce the time it takes to get the notification when my dryer is done with its cycle.

Is the only difference between State Check and Report Interval that State Check is a scheduled question from Hubitat to the switch and that Report Interval is an unsolicited message from the switch to Hubitat? Is the same information being provided? If so, I'm wondering what your thoughts were on having both on by default.

They could do a sort of relay switch. Aqara makes a relay that works pretty well. Basically, the main power keeps the relay on 24/7 then it lets you plug in the light switch into it, and it will turn the light on or off.

My smart home runs under Hubitat Elevation. It was built in 1969 (no aluminum wiring thankfully) and has no neutrals in the electrical boxes or behind them. Every switch location has only one black wire and one white wire.

I have a 4 gang power strip switch set up in Tuya. Up until few days ago Google Home recognized the switches as individual devices therefore I can not control 4 different outlets from google home app. I have added that to alexa and it's shows 4 separate devices there but not in google home. e24fc04721