Laboratory accreditation is a formal recognition by an authoritative body that a laboratory has demonstrated the technical competence and impartiality to perform specific tests or calibrations. The accreditation is awarded after a comprehensive assessment of the laboratory's management systems, technical processes, and personnel qualifications.

Accreditation is a voluntary process, and it is intended to provide confidence in the accuracy, reliability, and impartiality of the results produced by the laboratory. Accreditation is often a requirement for laboratories that participate in regulated industries, such as Textile Testing, healthcare, environmental testing, or forensics.

There are several accreditation bodies around the world that are recognized by governments and international organizations. These bodies provide a common framework for laboratory accreditation, and their standards and processes are designed to ensure that accredited laboratories meet a minimum level of technical competence and impartiality.

In order to maintain their accreditation, laboratories must undergo regular assessments and demonstrate ongoing compliance with the accreditation standards.

Overall, laboratory accreditation is an important tool for ensuring the quality and integrity of laboratory results, and it is essential for laboratories that provide critical information for decision-making in regulated industries.

(Shamim_Miah) It was an amazing experience and really enjoyable and most achievement period of my professional life. Thats part always positively brings to me. thanks to my mentor Mr. Sarwar Hossain and Mr. David O. Ratcliffe (B.Sc).

C01

C01 - METHOD OF TEST COLOUR ASSESSMENT CABINET

PURPOSE:

To define the standard equipment for visual colour matching and visual assessment of colour fastness Test.

DO NOT LOOK DIRECTLY AT ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT. AVOID PROLONGED SKIN EXPOSURE. COLOUR ASSESSMENT CABINET – SMALL

VeriVide – CAC 60-4 (See notes 1,2,3,4,5,6 and 7 and Equipment Index ref 11G, 13W, 17A and 24Z.)

Reference: D65, 840-P15, F, UV (or old reference: D65, TL84/P15, F, UV).

Measuring: 680mm x 380mm x 360mm high (internal).

*Note: Switch Panel display reference (old reference TL84)

These 9 lamps should be arranged as illustrated in the photograph below: No. of Lamps

Description:

VeriVide Artificial Daylight to CIE (D65) - 18W 600mm long

Tungsten Filament 45mm (F) - 840-P15 (84-P)*18W 600mm long

Sylvania Ultra Violet Blacklight-Blue (UV) - 18W 600mm long

5 LIGHT SOURCE VERSIONS OF THE VERIVIDE CAC60 & CAC150 CABINETS (CAC60-5 & CAC150-5) ARE ALSO COMPLIANT WITH TEST METHOD C01 PROVIDING THAT THEY CONTAIN M&S’S SPECIFIED ILLUMINATNTS OF D65/840-P15/F/UV

COLOUR FASTNESS CABINET

Marks & Spencer C1

VeriVide – CAC 60 CF

Measuring: 680mm x 380mm x 360mm high (internal).

For Colour Fastness Assessment, the cabinet should be sited in a dark room or in a curtained off area.

FIXED ANGLE TABLE

A 45 Fixed Angle Table is also required for grading colour fastness test pieces (See notes 1 and 8).

VeriVide Artificial Daylight to CIE (D65) - 18W 600mm long

Sylvania Ultra Violet Blacklight-Blue (UV) - 18W 600mm long

IMPORTANT:

This cabinet is only acceptable for Colour Fastness Test Assessment.

For shade assessment the Colour Matching Cabinet equipped with all the light sources must be used.

At least one Colour Matching Cabinet must be available on site except Commission Test Houses.

NOTES:

1) The VeriVide cabinet, fixed angle table, replacement lamps and paint are all available from:

VeriVide Ltd – see Equipment Index Ref. 17A

J Heals – see Equipment Index Ref. 13W

2) All lamps, EXCEPT Ultra Violet lamps, must be replaced after 2,000 hours or every twelve months, whichever is the sooner.

3) The interior surfaces of the cabinet must be repainted once a year, or more frequently if they become scuffed. Use specially controlled batches. This is available only from VeriVide in ½ litre tins. In order to achieve the correct colour and reflectance the paint must be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions (see Appendix).

A record book recording this should be available for each cabinet.

Important: The white reflector (ceiling) should not be painted grey. Enamel reflectors must be kept clean by dusting or washing at least when lamps are changed.

4) Some older cabinets may be of different dimensions to those given and have the lamps in a different arrangement, these are not acceptable.

5) No diffuser should be used in the cabinet.

6) In order to minimise variations in lighting it is necessary to ensure that the cabinet and lamps are kept free of dust and items not required for the evaluation of samples.

7) It should be noted that cabinets manufactured prior to 1990 are not compatible with the latest 840-P15, T8 26mm diameter lamps specified. Owners of such cabinets should contact VeriVide for replacement cabinet options.

8) Where colour fastness samples are to be assessed and graded a fixed table set at 45 should be used, as described in Method of Test C2 ‘Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness’. This should also be repainted according to the stated method when the cabinet is repainted.

APPENDIX

Method of applications of paint to previously painted cabinets.

Existing Matt Grey Interior Finish

- Rub down surfaces with a medium grade abrasive paper and dust off to clean.

- Apply one coat of Paint Reference Grey 5574.

- Allow at least 3 hours to dry.

The method must be followed with the specified paint in order to achieve the correct colour and finish............................Test.

C02a

C02a - INSTRUMENTAL ASSESSMENT OF TEST PIECES FROM COLOUR FASTNESS Test DigiGrade

PURPOSE of Test.... To assess change in shade or staining of test pieces using Grey Scales by digital imaging techniques. This method may be used as an alternative to visual assessment using Method of Test C2 - Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Tests: Mounting of Test Pieces. Instrumental assessment provides more reliable and consistent results. Inter-laboratory trials in the UK show the best agreement between visual assessors is around half a Grey Scale Grade. Agreement between laboratories using DigiGrade is significantly better at around a quarter grade.

This technique may be used to assess pieces from all colour fastness tests where Grey Scales are used. However specimens which are highly textured or highly reflective such as high pile sliver knits all over metallic foils cannot be reliably assessed using the current system and results should be verified using visual assessment.

For C9 Colour Fastness to light, it may be used to assess the Blue Wools compared with the Grey Scale. It may not be used to determine the assessments of the specimens. The assigned grades are from comparison of the exposed and unexposed specimen Blue Wools. The software has not yet been developed for this application.

Note:

(1) The equipment and equations are currently a draft British Standard. This in turn is now being considered by the International Standards organisation TC38/ SC1. An inter laboratory trial is being organised by the UK with participants from USA, Spain, Sweden and UK.

(2) The equations specified are not those defined in ISO105, A04 and A05. Inter laboratory work completed in the UK identified weaknesses in some hues. The redefined equations better replicate visual assessment. Use of ISO 105 A04 A05 is not acceptable.

(3) The smallest area which a spectrophotometer can assess is approximately 3mm x 3mm. This is too large for many specimens. In addition the spectrophotometer determines an average measurement. The digital imaging techniques allow measurement of individual pixels. Consequently very small or uneven specimens can be assessed, for example a pin stripe can be assessed for staining or change in colour.

APPARATUS DigiGrade System with Cabinet version 2 (see notes 1 and 2).

EQUATIONS The equations are defined and published in the JSDC Vol 120

No5 pages 205-266

● Staining

● Change in colour

CABINETS.....

Light source:

DigiEye VeriVide D65 fluorescent tubes.

Evenness of illumination: Variation must be less than 4%

over the specimen assessment area.

MOUNTING OF DigiGrade System with Cabinet version 2 (see notes 1 and 2).

TEST PIECES Colour Fastness Tests: Mounting of Test Pieces.

INSTRUMENTAL ASSESSMENT OF Test PIECES....

All specimens must be mounted before

USE OF DIGIGRADE:1. Set up and calibrate using checker chart in accordance with manufacturer's instructions

2. Place the card with the mounted test pieces in the

assessment area of the cabinet and close the door.

3. Capture and grade the test pieces in accordance with the

manufacturers instructions.

REPORT....1. Assessment of Change in Colour using DigiGrade and whether on tone or off tone.

2. Assessment of Staining using DigiGrade.

NOTE.....

1. The Digi Grade is available from

DigiEye plc,

Quartz Close,

Warrens Business Park, Enderby, Leicester, LE19 4SG, England.

Tel: +44 (0) 116 284 7795,

Fax: +44 (0) 116 284 7799

Email enquiries@digieyeplc.com

Website: http://www.digieyeplc.com

Or their agents SDL Atlas PO Box 162 Crown Royal Shawcross Street Stock port SK1 3JW

Tel +44 (0)161 480 8485

Fax +44 (0)161 480 8580

Email test@sdl-shirley.co.uk

Website: http://www.sdl-shirley.co.uk

2. DigiGrade

a) Cabinets

i. All cabinets will be marked with their version

number

ii. Cabinet Version1 with the illumination at 45° is also acceptable but this model is no longer in production. Extensive trials have demonstrated the results are identical to those obtained with

version 2 conditions.

b) Settings.

The same camera settings must be used for each

assessment. The correct camera setting will depend

on the camera/cabinet combination. The settings

will be supplied by DigiEye plc

c) Illumination

i. The tubes must be calibrated matched pairs for each cabinet and be DigiEye quality VeriVide D65 daylight fluorescent lamps.

ii. Both tubes must be replaced after 2000hours use or every 12 months, whichever is the sooner.

d) Servicing

The system must have a current certificate of

calibration demonstrating that the system has been

serviced and calibrated, and that a new traceable

camera calibration has been issued. The DigiGrade

system must be calibrated at least annually.

C02

C02 - MOUNTING AND VISUAL ASSESSMENT OF TEST PIECES FROM COLOUR FASTNESS Test

PURPOSE....To minimise the differences between laboratories caused by the variation in mounting and visual assessment of test pieces.

APPARATUS....

Colour Matching Cabinet (as described in Method of Test C1 ‘Colour Matching Cabinet’).

2. Fixed or Tilting table set at 45°.

3. British Standard Grey Scales: For assessing change of colour BSENISO 20105 A02: 1995. For assessing staining BSENISO 20105 A03: 1995.

4. Colour fastness grading mask

MOUNTING OF TEST PIECES...

1. All specimens, multifibre adjacent fabric, cotton lawn etc. must be mounted on white card. The card should NOT be printed with lines to frame each piece, as these are a distraction when making an assessment.

2. All fabric pieces and yarn should be stapled to the card. Buttons, buckles, beads and so on may be fixed to the card using double sided adhesive tape such that it does not cover the upper surfaces of the specimen. The use of adhesive tape with fabrics may result in discolouration of the fabric.

3. Adhesive tape, for example sellotape, should be placed on the back of the card to secure the staple ends.

4. A ‘Sharps Box’ should be available in the laboratory to ensure used staples are disposed of safely. This will avoid possible contamination of product.

5. Specimens

(i) Fabric

Where necessary trim the edges of the tested specimen straight leaving the largest possible piece to mount. Staple this as a single layer to the card ensuring that the staples are parallel to the short sides and as close to the edges as possible.

Cut a similar size piece of untested fabric and mount such that it is adjoining but not overlapping the tested piece (that is no gaps or lines between them).

Ensure that:

(a) Any surface effects are in the same direction, (with some warp knit structures this may not be immediately obvious).

and

(b) In multicoloured pieces where possible, the different colours are adjoining. For example: for striped fabrics the stripes on both pieces are in one direction and the colours meet.

(ii) Yarns, Sewing Threads. Tested and untested samples should be wound in small hanks and mounted with staples such that:

(a) The strands are parallel. and (b) The tested and original samples are adjoining.

(iii) Buttons, Buckles etc. Using the double sided adhesive tape mount the tested specimen on the card with an untested specimen adjoining it.

6. Multifibre adjacent fabric Where necessary trim the edges of the tested piece straight leaving the largest possible piece to mount. Staple this adjoining the relevant test specimen, ensuring that for contact staining tests, e.g. water at 37°C, the side showing heavier staining is uppermost. The staples should be parallel to the shorter ends and as close to the sides as possible.

7. Cotton Lawn from Rub Fastness Tests The tested piece of cotton lawn should be trimmed to neaten the edges only. Since the staining assessment is made against the surrounding cotton, the mounted area should be as large as possible. To avoid creasing of the tested area being assessed as poor results, mount the cotton lawn using staples on two opposite sides of the stain, while keeping the lawn under slight tension.

8. Each test should be clearly identified on the white card.

VISUAL ASSESSMENT OF TEST PIECES....

All test pieces must be mounted before assessment.

1. Use of Cabinet

(a) Place the fixed table or tilting table approximately in the centre of the colour matching cabinet.

(b) The angle of viewing of the test pieces is important. The technician should be positioned such that when viewing the tilting table the angle of incidence is approximately 90° (see diagram). The cabinet may therefore require positioning on a high bench or the technician may need to be seated.

The angle of viewing is critical if reliable assessment is to be achieved. This is particularly important where specimens have a gloss or sheen.

All Test pieces must be mounted before assessment.

1. Use of Cabinet

(a) Place the fixed table or tilting table approximately in the centre of the colour matching cabinet.

The angle of viewing is critical if reliable assessment is to be achieved. This is particularly important where specimens have a gloss or sheen.

(d) Place the card with the mounted pieces on the tilting table.

2. Assessment of change of shade

(a) Select the Grey Scales for change in colour (pairs of grey chips).

(b) Place the mask over the specimens so that equal proportions of the tested and untested specimen are visible through the shorter slot.

At the same time hold the Grey Scale such that the pair of chips visible through the Grey Scale mask are in the same plane as the specimens and as close to them as possible. Care must be taken not to cast a shadow over the area being assessed.

(c) Alter the Grey Scales until the difference in contrast in the grey chips is equivalent to the difference in contrast between the tested and untested specimens.

3. Assessment of Staining

Select the Grey Scales for assessing staining (pairs of white and grey chips). Note: Loose fibres may be removed by gentle brushing from either the multifibre adjacent fabric or cotton lawn; Record details of any noticeable fibre loss.

(a) Multifibre adjacent fabric

Each component must be assessed and reported individually.

(i) Place an untested piece of multifibre adjacent fabric on the card adjoining the test piece such that pairs of components are butting,

i.e. lyocell stripes adjoining, cotton stripes adjoining etc.

(ii) Place the mask over the multifibre adjacent fabric so that equal portions of only one pair of components are visible through the narrow slot. At the same time hold the Grey Scale such that the pair of chips visible through the Grey Scale Mask are as close to and in the same plane as the multifibre adjacent fabric components. Care must be taken not to cast a shadow over the area being assessed.

Alter the Grey Scales until the difference in contrast between the white and grey chips is equivalent to the difference in contrast between the tested and untested pieces. If, however, the comparison is judged to be between two pairs of chips then the lower grade is given (for example: worse than 3¬4 but better than 3 is graded as 3). The procedure is repeated for each component of the multifibre adjacent fabric (except for the wool component after a wash at 95°C when the wool will have been degraded and assessment is not meaningful).

In the case of water at 37°C and perspiration fastness, multifibre adjacent fabric components may not be stained uniformly. For Example: when testing patterned fabric. In such cases assess the area of most severe staining.

(b) Cotton lawn from rub fastness tests. Place the mask over the

cotton lawn so that equal portions of stained and unstained fabric are visible through the narrow slot. Assess the depth of staining following the procedure for a component of multifibre adjacent fabric.

NOTES.....

1. BRITISH STANDARD GREY SCALES

(i) The scales must be clean. When they become soiled they must be replaced.

(ii) Although BSEN ISO 20105:AO2 and AO3 conform to the International Standards Organisation Specification:, only the British Standard Scales may be used. Other scales, (for example: DIN 54001, DIN 54002 and AATCC) whilst conforming to the same ISO specification are presented differently. In order to minimise possible variations in visual assessment only the British Standard scales are acceptable.

(iii) The British Standard Grey Scales are manufactured by SDC Enterprises Ltd and James H Heal. Either source is acceptable.

2.COLOUR FASTNESS GRADING MASK

This is a matt black plastic mask or metal into which two slots have been cut: 32mm x 28mm for assessment of change of shade 50mm x 15mm for assessment of staining. Use of the mask results in more reliable and quicker assessment of pieces.

3. ONLY ARTIFICIAL DAYLIGHT (D65) IS ACCEPTABLE FOR COLOUR FASTNESS ASSESSMENT.

Do not confuse with shade matching which requires 850 TL84 , artificial daylight (D65) and tungsten to be used.

Replaces: Method of Test ‘Mounting and Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Tests’ dated February 2009.

C4A

C4A - COLOUR FASTNESS TOWASHING USING DETERGENT

PURPOSE of Test....

To assess any colour change or staining which may occur during washing.

APPARATUS....

1. Roaches Wash Wheel.

Note: All containers must have a capacity of 550mL ± 50mL and a speed of rotation of 40 ± 2rpm.

Note 2: alternative models may be acceptable. Infra Red heated models are not acceptable.

2. For detergent wash fastness at 95ºC test only: 6mm non-corrodible (stainless) steel balls

3. Multifibre adjacent fabric 100mm x 40mm such that it contains all six component fibres. (See Method of Test C3 ‘Multifibre Adjacent Fabric’.)

4. Chemical balance accurate to at least ± 0.01g.

5. 100mL or 250mL measuring cylinder as appropriate.

6. Thermometer –10ºC to + 110ºC in 1ºC graduations.

7. 2 x 2 Litre Beakers.

8. Non-rusting mesh drying tray.

9. Metal Ruler with mm graduations see Method of Test

CG Guidelines for Colourfastness and Chemical Test Methods.

REAGENT....

1. ECE phosphate containing reference detergent B without optical brightening agent.

2. Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate (NaBO34H2O)

WASH LIQUOR....

THIS SOLUTION MUST BE FRESHLY PREPARED IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO USE BECAUSE THE

PERBORATE DEGRADES WHEN WET. Heat the distilled water to the required temperature, measure 1 litre and add 4.0g ECE detergent and 1.0g sodium perborate. DO NOT STORE UNUSED LIQUOR.

Test Specimen....

Fabrics...

Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 100mm x 40mm. In the case of multi-coloured fabrics, or prints, all the different colours of the design should be tested.

Other Items

For details of specimen size for Labels, Sewing Threads, Yarns, Zips, Buttons and Narrow Fabrics.

Temperature and Time....

There are three options

Detergent wash fastness at : 50ºC ± 2ºC for 30 minutes

Detergent wash fastness at : 60ºC ± 2ºC for 30 minutes

Detergent wash fastness at : 95ºC ± 2ºC for 30 minutes

See Performance Standards for required test.

METHOD....

1. Heat the water bath, and the container to the required temperature. In the case of the detergent wash fastness at 95ºC test, ten steel balls should be added to the container prior to heating.

2. Sew the specimen to the multifibre adjacent fabric along one short side using white cotton thread. Weight this composite specimen and calculate the volume of wash liquor required to give a 50:1 liquor ratio (i.e. 50mL of liquor per 1.00g of composite specimen).

3. Prepare the wash liquor at the required temperature.

4. Pour the calculated volume of wash liquor (measured with a measuring cylinder) into a pre-heated container. Then add the composite specimen.

5. Run the machine for the appropriate time and temperature.

6. When emptying the containers, note should be taken of staining of the wash liquor. Record any staining worse than ‘very slight’ as slight, moderate or distinct as appropriate.

7. RINSING - Light and Dark samples must be rinsed separately Fill 1 of the 2 litre beakers with cold distilled water and the 2nd beaker with cold tap water Place the composite specimens into the beaker with distilled water and stir / agitate the water for 1 minute, Transfer the samples into the 2nd beaker containing cold tap water and stir / agitate for 1 minute Squeeze the specimen/s to remove excess water.

8. With the Test specimen and multifibre adjacent fabric in contact only at the line of stitching, allow the specimen to dry flat on the mesh drying tray at a temperature not exceeding 60ºC.

REPORT...

Record the test temperature, change of colour and staining of each component of the multifibre adjacent fabric.

NOTES....

1. Although detergents from other sources are available which conform to the ISO specifications, they may not give the same staining characteristics. Therefore, for the purposes of this Test, Marks & Spencer have standardised on this source.

2. Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate. The chemical formula for this reagent can be expressed in two ways:- NaBO34H2O or NaBO2H2O23H2O

The reagent is the same.

3. Labels

Test a complete label or label repeat.

4. Sewing Threads: Fold a 40mm x 100mm piece of multifibre adjacent fabric containing all six components in half and sew round the three open edges to form a bag containing a 0.2g hank of the test specimen.

5. Yarns and slivers of yarns: Test a 0.8g hank or sliver and carry out the test as for sewing thread.

6. Buttons, Sequins or Beads: Fold a 40mm x 100mm piece of multifibre adjacent fabric in half and sew around the three open edges to form a bag containing test specimens.

The number of buttons per Test is as follows:

Up to 23 lignes buttons (up to 14.5mm) 3 per test 24-32 ligne buttons (15.0 - 19.5mm) 2 per test 32+ ligne buttons (20+mm) 1 per test Use 100mL of wash liquor and carry out a detergent was fastness at 50ºC test. After rinsing open out the multifibre adjacent fabric and allow it and the specimen to dry separately.

7. Zips: Take a 100mm long specimen to include tape and coil and follow the method for fabric to be testing for a detergent was fastness at 50ºC.

8. Narrow Fabrics (e.g. Narrow Elastics, Braids): Take one 100mm long specimen and follow the method for fabric.

C06

C06 - OLOUR FASTNESS TO WATER AT 37°C

PURPOSE of Test....

To assess the degree of cross-staining which may occur when garments are left in contact when damp.

APPARATUS....

1. Supply of glass plates each measuring 60mm x 60mm x 6mm thick and weighing approximately 50g.

2. Supply of petri dishes large enough to hold a 60mm x 60mm glass plate (90-95mm diameter dishes are the most satisfactory).

3. Multifibre adjacent fabric 100mm x 50mm cut in half to give two pieces 50mm x50mm

4. Timer for 15 minutes and 4 hours minimum. (See Guidelines for Colour Fastness and Chemical Test).

5. Incubator capable of maintaining at 37°C ± 2°C

6. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

7. Metal rule with mm graduations see Method of Test CG General Requirements for Colour Fastness Chemical Test.

Test Specimen....

Fabric....

Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 50mm x 50mm.

If the face and back of the fabric are of different shade or fibre composition, or has been coated on the face for example with a waterproof treatment, both sides should be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. It will be necessary.

to prepare two specimens and carry out two separate tests. In the case of multi-coloured fabrics or prints, all the different colours of the design should be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. It may be necessary to carry out more than one test.

Other Items

For details of specimen size for Labels, Sewing Threads, Yarns, Buttons, Zips, Narrow Fabrics and Leathers.

METHOD....

1. The specimen is sandwiched between the two pieces of multifibre adjacent fabric so that the specimen is in contact with all six components of the multifibre strip.

2. Place the composite specimen in the petri dish. Fill the dish with distilled water and thoroughly wet out the composite specimen by firmly tapping the fabric with the edge of a glass plate and then carefully draw the edge of the glass plate along the specimen to remove any air bubbles. Lay the glass plate squarely on the composite specimen.

3. Allow to stand for 15 minutes at room temperature.

4. Applying ONLY SUFFICIENT PRESSURE to hold the glass plate in position, pour off the excess water. DO NOT SQUEEZE.

5. Place the petri dish with the Test specimen and glass plate in the incubator for 4 hours at 37°C ± 2°C.

6. Remove from the incubator. Allow the test specimen and multifibre adjacent fabric to dry separately on the mesh drying trays at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

MOUNTING AND ASSESSMENT......

Method of Test C2 ‘Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Tests’.

REPORT.....Record the change of shade of the specimen and, individually, the staining on all the components of the multifibre strip.

NOTES.....

1.Labels

Take sufficient number of specimens to test all the colours of the print to be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. It may be necessary to prepare more than one specimen.

2.Sewing Threads, Yarns and Sliver of Yarn Sandwich approximately 0.2g thread or yarn or sliver of yarn tied into a 50mm long hank between 50mm x 50mm pieces of multifibre adjacent fabric, so that the specimen is in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. Carry out the test as described for fabric.

3. Buttons, Sequins or Beads Wet out the multifibre adjacent fabric first and then sandwich sufficient buttons, depending upon the diameter, to be in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. Both sides of the button should be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre strip. Carry out the test as for fabric.

4. Zips Remove the coil of the zip and test a 50mm long piece of the tape. Proceed as for fabric.

5. Narrow Fabrics (e.g. Braids, Elastics) Test a 50mm long piece and proceed as for fabric.

6. Leather and Suedes Cut two specimens each 50mm x 50mm, both sides should be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. Carry out the test as for fabric. Report the staining for both face and reverse of the leather or suede.

C07

C07 - COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION

Purpose of Test...

To assess the degree of change of shade or cross staining due to perspiration.

APPARATUS...

1. Chemical balance accurate to ± 0.01g.

2. 2 x 1 litre volumetric flasks.

3. 2 x 1.5 litre beakers.

4. pH meter (see note 1).

5. Supply of glass plates each measuring 60mm x 60mm and 6mm thick weighing approximately 50g.

6. Supply of glass petri dishes large enough to hold the 60mm x 60mm glass plate (90-95mm diameter dishes are the most satisfactory).

7. Multifibre adjacent fabric 100mm x 50mm cut in half to give two samples 50mm x 50mm (see diagram 1).

8. 2 x 50ml measuring cylinders.

9. Timer for 15 minutes and 4 hours minimum (see Guidelines for Colour Fastness & Chemical Tests).

10. Incubator maintained at 37°C ± 2°C .

11. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

12. Metal ruler with mm graduations

REAGENT.....

1.Alkaline Solution

5.00g/l l-Histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate

5.00g/l Sodium chloride (NaCl)

2.50g/l Di-sodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (Na 2 HPO 4 2H 2 O) (see note 2).

Dilute the solution up to 1 litre in a litre volumetric flask using distilled water and then transfer the contents to a 1.5 litre beaker and bring to pH 8.0 ±0.05 with 0.1mol/L (0.1N) sodium hydroxide (Na0H).

2.Acid Solution

5.00g/l l-Histidine monohydrochloride monohydrate

5.00g/l Sodium chloride (NaCl)

2.20g/l Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate (NaH 2 PO 4 2H 2 O) (see note 2).

Dilute the solution up to 1 litre in a litre volumetric flask using distilled water and then transfer the contents to a 1.5 litre beaker and bring to pH 5.5 ±0.05 with 0.1mol/L (0.1N) sodium hydroxide (Na0H).

Test Specimen....

Fabric....

Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 50mm x 50mm.

to prepare two specimens and carry out two separate tests.

In the case of multi-coloured fabrics or prints, all the different colours of the design should be tested in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. It may be necessary to carry out more than one test.

Other Items

For details of specimen size for Labels, Sewing Threads, Yarns, Buttons, Zips, Narrow Fabrics and Leathers and Suedes.

METHOD....

Alkaline Perspiration

1. Sandwich the test specimen between two pieces of multifibre adjacent fabric so that the specimen is in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. Weigh this composite specimen and place it in a petri dish.

2. Take a 20:1 liquor ratio (i.e. 20ml of perspiration solution per 1g of composite specimen) and pour into the petri dish. Wet out the composite specimen thoroughly by firmly tapping it with the edge of the glass plate to remove the air bubbles. Leave for 30 minutes at room temperature without the glass plate in place.

3. Again firmly tap the composite specimen with the edge of the glass plate and draw the edge of the glass plate over the specimen to remove air bubbles. Place the glass plate squarely on the composite specimen and leave to stand for 15 minutes at room temperature.

4. Applying ONLY SUFFICIENT PRESSURE to hold the glass plate in position, pour off the excess solution. DO NOT SQUEEZE.

5. Place petri dish, composite sample and glass plate into the incubator at 37°C ± 2°C for 4 hours.

6. Remove from the incubator. Allow the test specimen and multifibre adjacent fabric to dry separately on the mesh drying trays at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

Acid Perspiration.....

Carry out the Test as for steps 1 to 6 using the acid solution.

MOUNTING AND ASSESSMENT....

MOUNTING AND ASSESSMENT....Method of Test C2 ‘Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Tests’.

REPORT....Record the change of shade of the specimen and the staining of the individual components of the multifibre adjacent fabric separately for both the acid and alkaline Test.

NOTES.....

1. The pH meter must be calibrated according to the manufacturer’s instructions prior to use, on every occasion.

2. The water of hydration should be exactly as stated, i.e. 2H2O.

3. 0.1N (0.1M) Sodium Hydroxide is available from BDH Chemicals as a prepared solution (order 0.1N (0.1M) Sodium Hydroxide AVS). If too much Sodium Hydroxide is added at the pH adjustment stage, the solution should be discarded. It must not be re-adjusted with dilute acid.

It is essential to use 0.1N (0.1M) Sodium Hydroxide as other concentrations result in different concentrations of Histidine in the final solution.

4. Footwear Leathers

These are only tested for alkaline fastness. No liquor ratio is calculated. The petri dish is filled with the test solution. In other respects the test is unchanged.

5. Sewing Threads, Yarns and Slivers of Yarn

Sandwich approximately 0.2g thread, yarn or sliver of yarn tied into a 50mm long hank between 50mm x 50mm pieces of multifibre adjacent fabric, so that the specimen is in contact with all six components of the multifibre adjacent fabric. Test the threads for acid and alkaline perspiration as described for fabric.

C08

C08 - COLOUR FASTNESS TO RUBBING

Purpose Test....

To assess the degree of colour transfer/staining caused by rubbing.

APPARATUS....

1. Crockmeter. 2. 50mm x 50mm SDC cotton lawn.

Test Specimen....

No special test specimen need be prepared but it must be at least 250mm long in the direction of test and at least 50mm wide.

IMPORTANT....

Where dry and wet tests are required two separate test specimens must be tested.

– If the face and back of the fabric or material are of different shade, fibre composition, or surface character, then test both sides and report separately.

– Garments made from pigment printed fabrics and dyed garments must be tested on both sides of collars, cuffs and body fabrics.

– Each colour of the design should be tested individually on multi-coloured and printed fabrics. Test along the stripe(s) on striped fabric.

Other Items

For details of specimen size for labels, sewing threads, yarns and narrow fabrics (see notes 4, 5 and 6 respectively).

METHOD......

Mount the specimen on the rubbing area of the test base and tension it using the device provided.

Dry Rub

1. Place the cotton lawn over the end of the peg of the crockmeter and hold taut by means of the spring clip provided.

2. Rest the peg on the test specimen. Ensure that the spring clip or other tensioning device is not in contact with the test specimen.

3. Operate the equipment so that the peg is rubbed to and fro along the test specimen at the rate of 10 complete cycles (i.e. 20 strokes) in 10 ± 1 seconds.

Wet Rub (Where specified)

1. Thoroughly wet out the cotton lawn with distilled water. Remove the excess moisture by squeezing.

2. Carry out the test as for dry rub, using a different test specimen.

3. Allow the cotton lawn to dry at a temperature not exceeding 60°C. For Fabrics with Finishes that may cause noticeable shedding / fibre loss such as a sueded (peachy) finish.

Carry out 2 Rubbing Test samples on one sample remove any fibre shedding and on the other leave the shedded fibres. Mount and grade each sample separately if grading is

difficult with the fibres state Slight; Moderate or Severe, after grading it may be necessary to use clear adhesive tape to affix the loose fibres in place.

Mount and assessment.....Mount the whole of the cotton lawn on white card and assess the staining by comparison with the unstained areas of the cotton as described in Method of Test C2 ‘Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Test’. In the case of patterned fabrics an uneven stain may occur. In such instances, assess the area of deepest stain.

REPORT... Record the staining of the cotton lawn for dry and wet rub separately.

NOTES..... 1. Crockmeter

The most universally suitable model is available from Datacolor International. All models must be inspected regularly to ensure the following requirements are met:-

a) The rubbing track must be 105mm ± 5mm long and straight.

b) The peg must be flat and circular with a diameter of 16mm. When fixed in the crockmeter assembly the peg must exert a downward force of 9.0N ± 0.2N. Replacement pegs and spring clips are available from the equipment suppliers.

c) The peg must remain in contact with the rubbing surface throughout the entire test cycle. If not, the crockmeter should be replaced.

d) The rubbing surface and back of crockmeter must not be worn. If this occurs the crockmeter should be replaced.

2. It is recommended to fix emery paper (grades between 180 and 320 are suitable) to the rubbing area of the crockmeter to improve specimen holding and reduce specimen movement. This is fixed by means of doublesided adhesive tape which must be positioned such that there is no join under the rubbing track. (A join in the tape may result in a deformed peg.) The emery paper will require replacement periodically as it becomes worn.

3. The Cotton Lawn is manufactured by The Society of Dyers and Colourists or J H Heals and available from them or their agents. Other qualities of cotton fabric, including other sources of lawn may give different results.

4. Labels Apply double-sided adhesive tape to the back of the labels and adhere to card to give a 250mm length for testing. Carry out the test as for fabrics.

5. Sewing Threads, Yarns and Slivers of Yarn Form a 250mm long untwisted hank of the specimen. Carry out the test as for fabrics but take care that the peg does rub along the threads rather than between them.

6. Narrow fabrics (for example Zips, Tapes, Braids etc.) Tension a 250mm length of the specimen and test as for fabric, the stain produced may not necessarily be circular depending upon the width of the specimen.

7. Squeezing must be done by hand. Do not use mechanical devices or absorbent towels to aid moisture removal. The preferred method is to soak the cotton lawn in a petri dish containing distilled water. Remove and fold twice, into quarters.

Gently squeeze the folded cotton lawn between the thumb and forefinger taking care to avoid the folds. Open out the cotton lawn, lay it flat across the back of the hand and pat it gently to remove any excess moisture.

C10A

C10A - COLOUR FASTNESS TO OXIDATIVE BLEACH DAMAGE

Purpose of Test.....

To assess any colour change which may occur during repeat washing with an oxidative bleach detergent. This method only considers oxidative bleach damage, it does not consider shade change due to pick up of optical brightening agents (OBA).

The Test method does not consider staining so no multifibre adjacent fabric is included.

The method is based upon BS 1006:UK-TO 1998. Colour fastness to Domestic laundering: Oxidative Bleach Response. It is also similar to BSENISO C09: 2002.

APPARATUS......

1. Roaches Wash Wheel

similar wash wheel (See Marks & Spencer approved machine Equipment Index Ref 1A/11H/13B/23A/27A).

Note: All containers must have a capacity of 550ml ± 50ml and a speed rotation of 40 ± 2rpm. Other models of wash wheel may be acceptable. Wash wheel with Infra Red Heaters are not acceptable.

2. Magnetic or Mechanical Stirrer to ensure thorough dispersion and prevent settling of the test solution, capable of maintaining 1000rpm for a minimum of 10 minutes.

3. Chemical Balance accurate to at least ± 0.01g.

4. 100ml, 250ml and 1000ml measuring cylinders.

5. 2 litre measuring jug.

6. Thermometer -10° to +110°C in 1°C graduations.

7. 2x2 Litre beakers.

8. Non-rusting mesh drying tray.

9. Metal Ruler with mm graduations.

REAGENTS....

1. ECE Non-Phosphate Reference Detergent (A) (without optical brightener) (See Note 2).

2. Sodium Perborate Tetahydrate (NaBO3 4H20).

3. TAED (Tetra-Acetyl Ethylene Diamine) at 100% activity.

Test Specimen......

Fabrics..... Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 100mm x 40mm.

For Multicoloured or Printed Fabrics .......

Specimens should be selected so all the different colours of the design are tested. It may be necessary to carry out more than one test.

For Sewing Threads........Yarns and Slivers of Fibres Form a hank weighing approximately 2.00g and test as for fabric.

WASH LIQUOR........

THE SOLUTION MUST BE FRESHLY PREPARED IMMEDIATELY PRIOR TO USE BECAUSE THE

PERBORATE DEGRADES WHEN WET.

Using a 1000ml measuring cylinder, measure 1 litre of distilled/deionised water into a 2.0 litre measuring jug at 27°C ± 2°C and add: 10.00g ECE Reference Detergent (A).

12.00g Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate. 1.80g TAED (at 100% activity). (The actual amount of TAED will vary according to its activity. Vigorously disperse the solution using the mechanical stirrer for a minimum of 10 minutes. A good centrifugal action must be achieved and no chemical residues are deposited on the sides of the container.To achieve this, the stirrer must be operated at approximately 1,000 r.p.m.

NOTE: THE SOLUTION MUST BE USED IMMEDIATELY AFTER PREPARATION TO PREVENT

SETTLEMENT OF THE CHEMICALS.

METHOD....

1. Heat the water bath and containers to 27°C ± 2°C.

2. Weigh the specimen and calculate the volume of wash

liquor required to give a 100:1 liquor ratio (i.e. 100ml of liquor per 1.00g of fabric).

3. Prepare the wash liquor at 27°C ± 2°C.

4. Add the calculated volume of wash liquor to give 100:1 Liquor ratio (that is 100ml solution for 1g specimen) to the container.

5. Place the specimen in the container with the wash liquor.

6. Run the machine and raise the temperature at a rate of

1.5º±0.5ºC per minute to: 50º C for a Care Label of 40ºC 60º C for a Care Label of 50ºC

When temperature is reached begin timing the test for 30 minutes.

7. RINSING - Light and Dark samples must be rinsed separately

Fill 1 of the 2 litre beakers with cold distilled water and the 2nd beaker with cold tap water Place the composite specimens into the beaker with distilled water and stir / agitate the water for 1 minute, Transfer the samples into the 2nd beaker containing

cold tap water and stir / agitate for 1 minute Squeeze the specimen/s to remove excess water.

8. Allow the specimen to dry flat on the mesh-drying tray at

a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

@. ECE Non-Phosphate Reference Detergent (A) (without Optical Brightener) is supplied by European Colour Fastness Establishment (ECE), BAM, Unter den Eichen 87, D-12203,

@. Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate. The chemical formula for this reagent can be expressed in two ways: NaBO34H2O or NaBO2H2O23H2O.

The reagent is the same.

@. TAED (Tetra-Acetylethylenediamine) is available from

@. The activity of the supplied TAED will be specified and is

likely to be less than 100%. The required amount of TAED

per litre of wash liquor is calculated:

1.8 x 100 gm % activity

Example: TAED activity is 92%

Weight of TAED required = 1.8 x 100

= 1.96g

REPORT...... i) The temperature of the test.

ii) Record the change of depth using the grey scale and any change in hue or tone.

NOTES for Test.....1. Suitable stirrers include:

Bibby Sterilin HB501 stirrer available from Fisher Scientific UK

Bishop Meadow Road Loughborough Leicestershire Tel: 01509 231166 LE11 5RG Fax: 01509 231893

UK E-mail: info@fisher.co.uk

Bibby Sterilin CB162. UK suppliers are:

Analytical Supplies Ltd, Duffield Road, Little Eaton, Derby Tel: 01332 831671, DE21 5DR Fax: 01332 834364

UK E-mail: sales@asi-supplies.co.uk

C10

C10 - COLOUR FASTNESS TO PERBORATE

Purpose of Test....

To assess the effect of peroxy compounds present in domestic washing detergents. This method is similar to BS 1006 UK-TE but has been modified to improve reliability and reproducibility.

APPARATUS......

1. Incubator maintained at 50°C ± 2°C.

2. 1 Litre Beaker.

3. 1 Litre Volumetric Flask or 1 line measuring cylinder.

4. Perborate Sensitive Fabrics P1 and P2 see Note 1 (see Equipment Ref. 13AO, 24AS and 25J), each piece of 50mm x 50mm.

5. Supply of 250mL glass beakers.

6. 50mL measuring cylinder.

7. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

8. Chemical balance accurate to ± 0.01g.

9. Supply of plastic or glass stirring rods with flat end.

10. Metal ruler with mm graduations see Method of Test CG General Requirements for Colour Fastness and Chemical Test.

11. 2x2 Litre beakers

REAGENT.......Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate.

Test Specimen......Fabric

Using a ruler and a pair of scissors, and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 50mm x 50mm.

For Multicoloured or Printed Fabric Specimens should be selected so that all colours of the design are tested. It may be necessary to carry out more than one test.

Other Items

For details of specimen size for sewing threads and yarns.

METHOD......

1. Heat the beakers for the specimen/s, two more beakers for the perborate sensitive fabrics and the measuring cylinder, in the incubator to 50°C ± 2°C.

2. Weigh the specimen and perborate sensitive fabrics individually. Calculate the volume of test solution required to give a 50:1 liquor ratio for each specimen and perborate sensitive fabric (i.e. 50mL Test solution per 1.00g specimen).

3. Prepare Test solution by heating exactly 1 litre deionised water to 50°C ± 2°C. Add sufficient perborate to give a solution of 0.4g/L available oxygen. See Appendix for

determination of sodium perborate. Stir to dissolve the perborate and use immediately.

4. Remove the beakers from the incubator. Quickly place the specimen in a beaker. If there is more than one specimen use a separate beaker for each. Use two separate beakers for the perborate sensitive fabrics. Add the required volume of test solution to each beaker; wet out each piece by gently tapping with a plastic or glass stirring rod.

5. Replace the beakers in the incubator for 15 minutes.

6. RINSING - Light and Dark samples must be rinsed separately Fill 1 of the 2 litre beakers with cold distilled water and the 2nd beaker with cold tap water Place the composite specimens into the beaker with distilled water and stir / agitate the water for 1 minute, Transfer the samples into the 2nd beaker containing cold tap water and stir / agitate for 1 minute Squeeze the specimen/s to remove excess water.

7. Allow the specimen and perborate sensitive fabrics to dry on the mesh drying trays at a temperature not exceeding 60°C.

REPORT........ Change of shade.

NOTES.......1. P1 is very sensitive to perborate and must change shade during the test. P2 is less sensitive to perborate and should not changeshade during the test If either P1 or P2 do not give the result described above then the test should be repeated, after checking the sodium perborate as described in the Appendix.

2. The chemical formula for sodium perborate tetrahydrate may be written NaBO3 4H2O

or NaB02H2O2. 3H2O. They are both the same chemical.

3. Sewing Threads,Yarns or Sliver of Yarns Form a hank of the thread or yarn weighing

approximately 2g. Carry out the Test as for fabric.

APPENDIX DETERMINATION OF SODIUM PERBORATE

PURPOSE...... To determine the mass of Sodium Perborate required to give

a solution of 0.4g/L available oxygen.

APPARATUS...... 1. 1 x 100mL volumetric flask.

2. 1 x 500mL volumetric flask.

3. Pipettes 20mL.

4. Chemical balance accurate to ± 0.01g.

5. Burette 0-50mL in 0.1mL graduations and suitable stand.

6. 3 x 250mL conical flask

7. White tile.

8. 100mL measuring cylinder.

REAGENTS........

1. Sodium Perborate Tetrahydrate (NaBO3 4H2O).

2. 0.1N Potassium Permanganate solution.

3. 2N (M) Sulphuric Acid.

METHOD.......

1. Dissolve 2.00g Sodium Perborate in deionised water and dilute to 100mL in a volumetric flask at room temperature. (Do not store this solution.)

2. Pipette 20mL of this solution into a 250mL conical flask and add 100mL 2N Sulphuric acid.

3. Fill the burette with 0.1N Potassium Permanganate solution.

4. Place flask under the burette and record the initial reading of the burette (first reading). Gradually run in the potassium permanganate solution with constant swirling of the flask, until a faint pink colour appears throughout the solution. This colour should remain for half a minute.

5. Record the volume of solution in the burette (second reading).

2nd reading – 1st reading = volume required to give end point, i.e. titre.

6. Repeat steps 2 to 5 twice The range of titres should be less than 1mL.

7. Record the average titre. Weight of Sodium Perborate required = 200 / average titre.

NOTES......

This weight of Sodium Perborate is dissolved and diluted to 1 litre using deionised water. This will give the Test solution with 0.4g/L available oxygen.

1. Frequent analysis of the Sodium Perborate is necessary as the amount of available oxygen will decrease with time. The perborate should be discarded when the oxygen level falls below 0.4g/L (i.e. when the titre falls to 46mL).

2. 0.1N potassium permanganate solution is available as diluted solution or glass vial. It may be obtained in glass vials. If glass vials are used all of the concentrated solution in

the vial must be transferred to a volumetric flask of the specified size (see vial label) and accurately diluted to volume.

C12A

C12A - COLOUR FASTNESS TO CHLORINATED WATER (TOWELS)

Purpose of Test........To determine whether any shade change occurs when fabric and garment accessories are used in areas where Chlorine/hypochlorite is present, for example in bathrooms where accidental contact may occur.

APPARATUS......1. Marks & Spencer approved Wash Wheel.

All the containers must have a capacity of 550ml ± 50ml, be fitted with chlorine resistant gaskets and be capable of maintaining 27°C ± 2°C throughout the duration of the test. The rotational speed must be 40 ± 2rpm. Other models of wash wheel may be acceptable. Infra Red Heating machines are not acceptabl.

2. Chemical balance accurate to ± 0.0001g.

3. 100ml, 250ml, 500ml measuring cylinders.

4. Non-rusting mesh trays, large enough to lay the specimen flat while relaxing.

5. 1 x 4.0ml pipette.

6. 4 x 1 litre volumetric flasks.

REAGENTS......

1. Sodium Hypochlorite (nominally 10-14% available chlorine).

2. Potassium Dihydrogen Orthophosphate (KH2 PO4).

3. Disodium Hydrogen Orthophosphate Dihydrate (Na2 HPO4 2H2O).

TEST SPECIMENS.......For Fabric....

Using a ruler and a pair of scissors and without marking the fabric, cut out a specimen 100mm x 40mm. In the case of multi-coloured fabrics or prints, all the different colours of the design should be tested.

Other Items, for example sewing threads, narrow trims – take approximately a 1.0g specimen and Test as for fabric.

TEST SOLUTION........

The Test solution and solution X must be prepared immediately prior to use, and contain 10mg/l active Chlorine at pH 7.5 as follows.

Note:

Carry out stage 1 and 2 from the "Method" section below

before preparing the test solution.

a. Solution X Preparation

Important

Solution X must be freshly prepared and used within one hour of preparation. Pipette 4.00ml Sodium Hypochlorite into a 1 litre volumetric flask and dilute to volume with distilled water, taking care to shake the flask thoroughly. Because the stock Sodium Hypochlorite degrades with time it must be standardised according to Appendix 1.

b. Solution Y Preparation (see Note a and c) Accurately weigh 14.35g Potassium Dihydrogen Orthophosphate, dissolve and dilute to 1 litre with distilled water in a volumetric flask.

c. Solution Z Preparation (see Note a and c) Accurately weigh 20.05g Disodium Hydrogen Orthophosphate Dihydrate, dissolve and dilute to 1 litre with distilled water in a volumetric flask.

d. Mixing of Test Solution

into a 1 litre volumetric flask pour the following quantities of the solutions: Solution X - calculated volume (see Appendix 1). Solution Y - 100ml. Solution Z - 500ml. Dilute to 1 litre with distilled water, taking care to shake thoroughly. Using a pH meter, check the pH is 7.50 ± 0.05 and adjust if necessary (see Note b). The solution is ready to use. It must not be stored.

METHOD...... 1. Heat the water bath and containers to 27°C ± 2°C.

2. Weigh each specimen and calculate the volume of solution required to give 100:1 liquor ratio (i.e., 100ml solution per 1.00g specimen).

3. Prepare the Test solution.

4. Place each specimen individually in a container together with sufficient solution to give 100:1 liquor ratio.

5. Run the machine for 1 hour at 27°C ± 2°C.

6. Remove the specimen from the container and squeeze out any excess solution. DO NOT RINSE.

7. Allow the specimen to dry flat on a non-rusting mesh tray in subdued light at room temperature.

REPORT...... Record the change in colour.

NOTES......

Solutions Y and Z

a. Experience has shown that if the chemicals used are weighed to ± 0.0001g then no additions are required to the test solution to achieve pH 7.5 ± 0.05.

b. To check the pH it is essential to use a calibrated pH meter. If the pH is less than 7.5 ± 0.05 then add Solution Z one drop at a time until the correct pH is obtained. If the pH is greater than 7.5 ± 0.05 then Solution Y is used. pH papers are not suitable.

c. Both these solutions are stable and may be stored for up to 6 weeks.

APPENDIX I

STANDARDISATION OF SODIUM HYPOCHLORITE

REAGENTS......

Prepare the Following Reagents Prior to Titration

1. 0.1mol/l (0.1N) Sodium Thiosulphate (Na2S2O3).

2. Potassium Iodide (KI).

3. 10% w/v Hydrochloric Acid (HCl).

4. Starch Indicator (see Note 1).

5. 4.0ml/l Sodium Hypochlorite (nominally 10-14% available chlorine), i.e., Solution X

Important

Solution X must be freshly prepared and used within one hour of preparation.

APPARATUS.....

1. 1 x 1 litre volumetric flask.

1 x 250ml volumetric flask.

2. Pipettes - 1 x 2ml

- 1 x 4ml

- 1 x 5ml

- 2 x 50ml.

3. Chemical balance accurate to ± 0.0001g.

4. Burette, 0-50ml in 0.1ml graduations, and suitable stand.

5. 3 x 250ml conical flask.

6. White tile.

METHOD........

1. Dilute the Sodium Thiosulphate by pipetting 50ml of 0.1mol/l Sodium Thiosulphate into a 250ml volumetric flask and dilute to volume taking care to shake the flask thoroughly.

2. Rinse the burette with this solution, then fill ensuring that no air bubbles are trapped beneath the tap.

3. Pipette 50ml Solution X into a clean 250ml conical flask.

4. Add 0.3g Potassium Iodide; the solution becomes orange/brown in colour.

5. Add, by pipette, 5.0ml 10% w/v Hydrochloric Acid; the solution becomes red/brown in colour.

6. Record the initial reading of the burette (first reading).

7. Place the conical flask under the burette and a white tile under the flask.

8. Run the Sodium Thiosulphate from the burette at approximately 1ml at a time, while constantly swirling the flask until the colour of the solution changes to very pale yellow.

9. Add, by pipette, 2.0ml starch indicator; the solution becomes dark blue in colour (if the solution remains colourless this titration should be disregarded and steps 3 onwards repeated in a clean conical flask). Continue to add the Thiosulphate one drop at a time until the solution becomes colourless. This is the end point of the titration.

10. Record the volume of the solution in the burette (second reading). Second reading – first reading = volume required to give end point, i.e., titre.

11. Repeat steps 3 to 10 twice. The range of titres should be less than 1.0ml.

12. Record the average titre .

Volume of Solution X required to give 10mg/l active

Chlorine =705ml / titre

NOTES.......

1. Preparation of starch indicator. This should be freshly prepared. Paste 1.00g soluble starch in a few drops of distilled water in a beaker. Add 100ml boiling distilled water and while stirring, boil the solution for at least 1 minute. Allow to cool until tepid (approximately 25°C). Add 3.0g Potassium Iodide and stir.

2. Standardisation of the Sodium Hypochlorite is necessary as the amount of available chlorine decreases with time. However, provided the same stock solution is used, the standardisation should be repeated every month. If the titre is less than 22.5ml the stock (concentrated) Sodium Hypochlorite is too weak to be used. It is believed that the high concentration of Sodium Chloride, one of the degradation products, can influence the results.

P15

PRINT DURABILITY

Purpose of Test.......To determine the durability of pigment or flock prints on fabrics.

APPARATUS

1. Dura wash. See note 1 and 2.

2. 15 minute timer.

3. Tumble dryer or domestic tumble dryer which meets same specification)

4. Fluorescence suppressor.

5. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights.

6. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

7. Home Furnishings only – Chainstitch or lockstitch sewing machine.

REAGENT....

1. 30g of Automatic heavy-duty, low-lather, powder detergent containing optical brightening agent.

2. Natural hard tap water.

TEST SPECIMEN.....

In all cases test specimens should have the raw edges overlocked to prevent fraying.

Small Area Prints and All Care Labels including Heat Transfer

Sew at least six specimens to a piece of makeweight, three on one edge and three on another. Retain an unwashed specimen for examination and assessment.

Overall Prints

Cut a sample approximately 500mm x 500mm noting that all colourways in the design are included. Retain enough unwashed fabric for examination and assessment.

Home Furnishing Prints....

For printed fabrics used in the Home Furnishings area, the preparation procedure is as follows:

Cut a sample approximately 500mm x 500mm. Fold the specimen, printed surfaces outside, such that all the colours of the design lie along the fold. Machine a line of stitching 12mm from the fold.

METHOD......

Wash Liquor Natural tap water .

Temperature 50°C or 60°C ± 2°C usually in line with the care label:– 50°C label wash @ 60°C ± 2°C. 40°C label wash @ 50°C ± 2°C.

Wash Load 1kg The specimens must not comprise more than half the load (i.e. 500g). Test specimens should be weighed and the load made up to 1kg by the addition of the polyester makeweights.

Procedure Place the makeweights in the machine and heat to 50°C ± 2°C or 60°C ± 2°C. Add 30g Detergent

Run the machine for one minute to dissolve the soap powder thoroughly. Add the test specimen(s) and run the machine for 15 minutes.

Rinse the specimen(s) and makeweights separately, twice in the spinner using cold water (do not run water into the spinner whilst spinning) see note 2.

All specimens and makeweights should be tumble-dried. The tumble dryer should be operated at the hot setting for 90 minutes or until the specimens are, dry.

MOUNTING AND ASSESSMENT.....

1. Mount a single thickness piece of the tested and untested specimens on white card using staples. Ensure that the specimens are orientated in the same direction.

Home Furnishings Only

After washing, remove the seam by carefully unpicking the line of stitching. In addition to the assessment of the overall fabric, the loss of print is also noted along the fold line.

Labels Only

After washing, carefully remove the specimens and mount for assessment. In addition to the assessment of print loss, assess the physical appearance of the specimen (for example, creasing, fabric filamentation).

2. All assessments should be made in a Colour Matching Cabinet using Standard Artificial Daylight (see Methods of Test C1 ‘Colour Matching Cabinet’ and C2 ‘Mounting and Visual Assessment of Test pieces from Colour Fastness Tests’).

3. The pieces to be assessed should be held at an angle of 45°, using a tilting table.

Rayon flock prints

These should be assessed for pick up of OBA under the UV light tubes because the fluorescence suppressor will not indicate the pick up of OBA for this fibre type. The colour change / loss of print assessment should still be carried out under D65 Artificial Daylight tubes.

REPORT......

1. The test temperature

2. Assess the degree of loss of print/flock at the printed areas. Grade each colour individually as no, negligible, slight, distinct or complete.

i) Where there appears to be some loss of print, place the Fluorescence Suppressor over the washed specimen. If the colour reverts to the original colour, the change/loss of print is due to pick-up of optical brightening agents and this should be stated. Do not use UV tubes for this purpose.

ii) Where no loss of print occurs it is not necessary to check for pick-up of optical brightening agents.

4. Labels Only Assess the level of creasing and/or filamentation of the fabric.

5. State whether natural tap water or artificially hardened water was used.

NOTES.....

1.Hoovermatic twin tub washing machine is no longer commercially available. However provided the timing mechanism has been modified, it continues to be acceptable.

Details of modification to the timing mechanism are available from the Marks and Spencer Accreditor.

2. When using the Durawash, a separate spin-dryer is required. The spin-dryer specification must indicate that water can be passed into the spin-dryer. Alternatively, use the rinse cycles on the Wascator MSB wash programme. In this case the specimens and make weights can be rinsed.

together.

3. Natural hard tap water should be used. The degree of hardness is not critical. However, if excessive foaming of the detergent indicates a very soft water supply, or artificially softened water is used then 0.5g/l magnesium sulphate should be added to artificially harden the water. If this is done it must be stated in the report......Test

C26

C26 - COLOUR FASTNESS FOR CONTRAST TRIMMED ITEMS

Purpose of Test .....Conventional colour fastness tests using multifibre strip do not always identify potential problems in staining of contrast trims during washing and drying.

This method is intended to provide a guide in the choice of

SUITABLE TRIMS PRIOR TO GARMENT PRO D U C T I O N AND SHOULD BE USED IN ADDITION TO THE CONVENTIONAL COLOUR FASTNESS TESTS AS SPECIFIED IN THE PERFORMANCE.

TEST SPECIMENS: SPECIMENS ....refers to the deeper coloured fabric.

ADJACENT FABRIC: refers to the paler contrast fabric which is being tested against the specimen in place of the multifibre strip.

The adjacent fabric should have any finishes applied and, if applicable, any fused components applied, e.g. interlining.

IMPORTANT

1. In the case of multicoloured fabrics or prints all the different colours of the design should be tested. It may be necessary to carry out more than one test.

2. If the face and back of the specimen are of different shade or fibre composition, both sides of the specimen should be tested in contact with the adjacent fabric.

If the face and back of the adjacent fabric are of different composition, both sides should be tested in contact with the specimen.

Up to four Tests may be necessary.

WASH FASTNESS METHOD......

Washable Fabrics....

Carry out Method of Test C4A ‘Colour Fastness to Washing Using Detergent’ on the specimen using the test specified in the performance standards but replacing the multifibre adjacent fabric with 100mm x 40mm piece of the adjacent fabric.

Dry Cleanable Fabrics

Carry out Method of Test C5 ‘Colour Fastness to Dry Cleaning’ on the specimen, but replacing the multifibre adjacent fibre with 100mm x 40mm piece of the adjacent fabric.

WATER @ 37ºC METHOD......

Carry out Method of Test C6 ‘Colour Fastness to Water at 37ºC’ on the specimen but replace the multifibre adjacent fabric by a 50mm x 50mm piece of adjacent fabric.

ASSESSMENT AND MOUNTING ....Using staples, mount the tested pieces butting but not

overlapping an original piece of the specimen and adjacent fabric on white card.

Tested Tested

Specimen Adjacent Fabric

Original Original

Specimen Adjacent Fabric

Assess the specimen for change of shade and the adjacent fabric for staining using the appropriate grey scale as described in Method of Test C2 for Mounting and Assessment of Test Pieces from Colour Fastness Tests.

REPORT.....

Record:-

i) The Test carried out.

ii) The change of shade of the test specimen.

iii) The staining of the adjacent fabric.

iv) Any wash liquor staining worse than very slight as slight, moderate, or distinct.

C35

C35 - SALTWATER CORROSION RESISTANCE

Purpose of Test...... To assess the corrosive potential and plating quality of metal and metal-plated components.

APPARATUS...... 1. Sealable polythene bags.

2. Desized, bleached cotton lawn without finish.

REAGENT....... 30g/L solution of sodium chloride (NaC1).

TEST SPECIMENS ......

Large samples (for example Umbrella components)

Samples should be cut to a size that will fit the polythene bags.

The sample should represent the part that has the least resistance to corrosion, that is to say where the coating is thinnest. The cut edges should then be sealed with an epoxy

resin (for example, Araldite) which should be allowed to harden for 24 hours.

Small samples

Test as received.

METHOD......

1. Cut enough cotton lawn so as to enclose the sample completely.

2. Saturate the cotton lawn in the sodium chloride solution at room temperature.

3. Wrap the test specimen in the wet cotton lawn, ensuring maximum contact with the metal surface.

4. Place the assembly in a polythene bag and seal such that it is slightly inflated.

5. Leave for 24 hours at room temperature.

6. After 24 hours, separate the specimen and cotton lawn and rinse lightly in running tap water. Allow both the Test sample and cotton lawn to dry at room temperature and inspect for corrosion.

RESULTS .........Mount the tested cotton lawn and sample on a card together

with an original untested sample. Grade as follows:

5 No change in appearance

4 Slight uniform change in appearance

3 Slight patchy change in appearance or slight rusting

2 Marked change in appearance or noticeable rusting

1 Very marked change, discolouration or rusting.

REPORT ..........

Record any rusting/staining on the cotton lawn.

Grading the results of this Test is imprecise due to the variety

of components and end-uses. Full description of results and

consideration of the end-use is essential.

C41 - accreditation-checklist

C41

P1A

P1A - WASCATOR STABILITY WASHES

Purpose of Test ........To determine stability of fabrics to washing.

APPARATUS........

1. Wascator FOM 71S, 71MP, 71MP/LAB or 71 CLS washing machine.

2. Stability template and percentage ruler.

3. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load.

4. Overlock sewing machine.

5. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights.

6. Flat bed press.

7. Tumble dryer (domestic tumble dryer which meets same specification).

8. Non-rusting mesh trays, large enough to lay a specimen flat while drying/relaxing.

9. Metal ruler with mm graduations.

TEST SPECIMEN....... Note: You are advised to read the whole of this section before commencing specimen preparation.

All Fabrics

1. Avoid fabric within 50mm of the selvedges.

2. Place the template onto the fabric as described under the different fabric types. Mark the specimen using the procedure described below.

The template consists of 12 slots and 8 holes. The distance between each pair of slots/holes is 350mm.

3. After marking the specimen IN THE NUMERICAL SEQUENCE INDICATED IN THE DIAGRAMS. draw a line around the template. Cut along this line without rounding off the corners to provide a 500mm square specimen for testing.

Woven or warp knit fabrics.... require only one thickness of fabric. Position the template with one edge parallel to the length direction of the fabric. Use a laundry marker to mark through the slots onto the fabric. Overlock the edges of woven specimens to prevent fraying, but do not round off the corners.

Sliver knits and heavy pile fabrics with coated.... backings require only one thickness of fabric. Position the template with one edge parallel to the length direction of the fabric. Use a texpen to mark the coated backing through the holes. Overlock the edges to prevent fraying, but do not round off the corners.

Weft knitted fabrics ......require either a double thickness of tubular fabric or a single piece of fabric folded to give a double thickness. Velours or brushed fabrics are prepared

with the pile side inside. Fold fabric selvedge to selvedge. Position template parallel to the selvedge. (N.B. this may not be parallel to the wales). Use a texpen to mark

through the holes onto one side of the double thickness of fabric. To prevent laddering, overlock the two thicknesses together along the two sides in the length direction and

across one side in the width direction. Do not round off corners.

Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on the fourth side so as to form a bag.

For narrow diameter (less than 500mm) tubular fabrics the specimen width is limited to the natural width of the fabric. Mark two sets of gauge marks in the length direction using the template. Then, using a metric ruler, measure and record the two width distances between these gauge marks, to the nearest millimetre. In all other respects, prepare the specimen as for weft knitted fabrics.

Garments and complete Homeware items (e.g. towels)....Mark two lengths and two widths approximately 25mm in from the side seams and the top or bottom of the garment. Measure using a metric ru l e r; record these measurements to the nearest millimetre.Trims and attachments, e. g. collars, cuffs, welts and stolling should also.

Be measured where appropriate. For knitwear, turn garments inside out before marking and measuring. All garments must be washed face side outwards and with all fastenings undone.

If ‘frame’ measurements are specified, refer to Method of Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame’.

All flat measurements must be taken prior to measuring a specimen on the frame.

ALL TEST SPECIMENS should be examined prior to washing paying attention to those points quoted under ‘Appearance’ in the Results section.

WASH LOAD..... Test specimens, which must not comprise of more than 1kg, should be weighed and the load made up to 2kg by the addition of sufficient makeweights.

Fabric specimens must not be washed in the same load as garments or complete Homeware items.

DETERGENT.....

This is required for all washesexcept MSE, MSK, MSS and MSTD. Mix approximately 50g (25g for MSW) of a heavy- duty, low- lather, powder detergent containing optical brightening agent in approximately 0.5 litres of wa rm wat e r.

METHOD.... The Wascator should be set up as described in P1 Part A, B, C or D “Preparation of Wascator for Stability Washes”. Refer to the performance standards for the washing stability and drying procedure to be carried out.

WASHING........

1. Place the wash load in the Wascator. Ensure Test specimens are not folded. Close the door.

2. For Wascator FOM 71S.

(a) Set the blue thermostat pointer to the temperature specified in the performance standard. ( For MSW i.e BSEN ISO 6330: 2001, set the blue pointer to 40°C and the yellow pointer to 50°C.)

( b) Insert the appropriate M&S wash programme card. OR

(a) For Wascator FOM 71MP select the stability wash ROM and select the appropriate wash

programme.

(b) For Wascator FOM 71MP/LAB and 71 CLS select the appropriate wash programme.

3. Start the Wascator and add the prepared detergent mix (if required) by pouring it through the dispenser when water is first visible in the sight tubes. This will help keep the sight tubes clean and prevent undissolved detergent collecting. (The Wascator 71 CLS does not have a sight tube).

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimens, taking care not to distort them.

DRYING....... The bracketed number in the performance standard specifies the drying procedure, as follows:

i) Flat Dry....Lay the specimens flat on mesh trays without stretching. Dry at room temperature.

ii) Press Dry.... Without stretching press the specimen using the flat bed press at the appropriate temperature:

Acrylic or Wool press at 120°C

Other fibres press at 180°C

iii) Tumble Dry..... Clean the filter on the tumble dryer prior to use. Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave a load equivalent to 1kg when dry. Tumble dry on the HOT setting as follows:

Synthetics (Nylon, Polyester, Acetate - 45 min. minimum)

Wool & Wool blends - 70 min. minimum

Cellulosics (including Viscose), and Cellulosic blends - 90 min. minimum

In the case of fabrics comprised of blends of fibres, the tumble drying time relates to the predominant fibre or generic type.

The times, which include a 10 minute cool down period, are necessary to completely dry the 1kg load.

If the load is not dry after the minimum period, continue until dry.

RELAXATION..... Lay the specimens individually on the mesh trays for a

minimum of 4 hours before measuring. Where only frame measurements are specified relaxation is not necessary.

RESULTS..... For specimens with FLAT measurements, the specimen should be placed with the minimum of handling on an adequately sized flat surface prior to re-measuring. This

should be the nearest corner bench, so that the stability ruler can be viewed face on in each direction.

For all changes in dimension, indicate shrinkage as a minus symbol (-) and extension as a plus symbol (+). Dimensions should be quoted to the nearest millimetre; percentages to the nearest 0.1 percent.

For Fabric....

When measuring stability specimens after washing, hold the percentage ruler at an angle of approximately 45° to fabric with the percentage scale against the specimen.

Record the change in dimension between the three length marks and the three width marks. Do not move the specimen. Do not place the ruler flat on the specimen.

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

(a) the average of the 3 lengths as a percentage

(b) the average of the 3 widths as a percentage

Where spirality of double thickness specimens has occurred refer to Method of Test P1B. ‘Measurement of spirality of Weft knitted fabrics and garments’.

Garments, complete homeware items and narrow

diameter knitted fabrics

Re-measure and calculate the percentage change as

follows:-

{(Original measurement - afterwash measurement) / Original measurement}

x100 = % change

Report:...

(a) the washed dimension for each measurement

(b) the change of each length as a percentage

(d) the washing and drying procedures carried out

For specimens with FRAME measurements refer to Method of Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements Using Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame’.

Appearance.....

Comment on changes in appearance compared to the original specimen, e.g. surface disturbance, colour loss or pick up of optical brightening agents.

Queries should be investigated by the additional use of appropriate Marks and Spencer Test methods.

Shedding of Fibre...

After measuring pile or brushed specimens examine both sides of the specimen; report any significant shedding of fibre.

NOTES.....

1. It is not necessary to use dry makeweights as they are known to individually weigh 50g when dry. For this reason they should be counted when preparing the 2kg wash load, not weighed.

STABILITY MEASUREMENTS USING THE MARKS AND SPENCER MEASURING FRAME - P2

P2 - STABILITY MEASUREMENTS USING THE MARKS AND SPENCER MEASURING FRAME

Purpose of Test...... To measure knitted garments on an adjustable frame to give results which take width fit potential into account.

APPARATUS .....

1. The Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame and clamps.

2. Metal Tape Measure.

TEST SPECIMEN.......

Test garment or body blank as received. Where flat measurements are required in addition to framed, use the same specimen.

All flat marking and measuring must be completed prior to framing.

When spirality occurs prior to framing, refer to Method of Test P1B ‘Measurement of Spirality of Weft Knitted Fabrics and Garments’.

FRAME SETTING...... Place the garment face side out on a dry flat surface.

Fasten any buttons, zips etc. At 1cm beneath the armhole measure the full flat width of the specimen. Record this measurement. Double this measurement. This is the first

frame setting. The second side of the frame should be one setting below this.

METHOD.........

1. Gently place the garment over the frame so the side seams fit down the edges of the frame and the top/shoulder seams align on the top.

2. With the weighted side of the clamp against the frame, hang the clamps on the bottom of the garm e n t , f i rst two at the front, then two at the back gripping approximately 5mm of fabric. Place them so they distribute their weight evenly over the garment.

3. After approximately 5 seconds carefully remove the clamps in the sequence they have been hung, i.e. first on, first off.

4. Wait 5 seconds; record the average of the 2 lengths to the nearest mm where the back and front of the garment aligns with the measure on the frame. Where the front and back of the garment are of different construction:

e.g., Intarsia front or cardigan. Report the front and back measurements separately.

5. Wash and dry the specimen according to the requirements of the performance specification. For procedure see Method of Test P1A “Wascator Stability Washes”. Note:Where only FRAME measurements are required it is not necessary to relax the specimen after tumble drying.

6. If spirality measurements are required, refer to Method of Test P1B ‘Measurement of Spirality of Weft Knitted Fabrics and Garments’. All flat and spirality measurements must be taken prior to re-framing.

Adjust the frame to the setting used prior to washing and repeat points 1 to 4. Calculate the percentage change.

{(Original measurement – After washing measurement) / original measurement}

x 100 = % change

Where front and back of the garment are of different construction calculate the individual percentage changes for front and back.

RESULTS..... Report the following:-

1. The stability wash carried out.

2. (i) The flat chest measurement in cm. (ii) The frame circumference.

3. Either:-

(i) The average of the two lengths to the nearest mm before washing.

(ii) The average of the two lengths to the nearest mm after washing.

(iii) The percentage change between (i) and (ii).

or:-

Where front and back of the garment are of different

construction report:-

(i) The front measurement to the nearest mm before washing.

(ii) The front measurement to the nearest mm after washing.

(iii) The percentage change between (i) and (ii). and

(iv) The back measurement to the nearest mm before washing.

(v) The back measurement to the nearest mm after washing.

(vi) The percentage change between (iv) and (v).

Record any distortion of the specimen after washing, e.g. excessive shrinkage of the front stolling on a cardigan.

4. Specimens which extend in width after washing. After framing and measuring some knitted constructions show width extension, this should be reported.

NOTE ......

1. To prepare a body blank from a panel of Knitwear fabric.

(i) Fold the panel in two, face inside, along the courses or wales.

(ii) Using an M&S stability template as a template, prepare a specimen 500mm in the Width direction and 650mm in the lengh direction.

(iii) Overlock the two thicknesses together along two length and one width sides. Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on the fourth side so as to form a bag.

(iv) Turn the prepared body blank face side out.

(v) Approximately 200mm from the top of the body blank, measure the full flat width of the body blank in cm. Record this measurement. Double this measurement

This is the first frame setting.The second side of the frame should be one below this.

(vi) Follow METHOD procedure, as for gamrents.

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TOWASHING AND TUMBLE DRYING OF WOOL KNITWEAR - P4B

P4B

P4B - DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TOWASHING AND

TUMBLE DRYING OF WOOL KNITWEAR

Purpose of Test .........

To determine the dimensional stability of woollen and worsted spun knitwear (including knitted fabric) to machine washing and tumble-drying. For fabric or garments which cannot be fitted to the Garment Frame, flat measurements should be applied. See detailed instructions in the “Note” section, on page 5. After MSTD, the garment MUST NOT be assessed for appearance, as the action of the rubber balls can cause severe surface disturbance.

APPARATUS.....

1. Wascator FOM 71S, 71MP, 71MP LAB or 71 CLS washing machine.

2. Balance/scales capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load.

3. Marks & Spencer standard makeweights. It is not necessary to use dry makeweights as they are known to individually weigh 50g when dry. For this reason they should be counted when preparing the 2kg wash load, not weighed. It is important that separate makeweights are used

for Part A and Part B of the test method. The makeweights used in Part A should not be

included in any washes using detergent. The makeweights used in Part B should be retained for the MSTD test only, and not utilised in any other type of wash. This will prevent the possibility of contamination.

4. Tumble dryer or a domestic tumble dryer which meets the same requirements).

5. Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate. (NaH2PO42H20)

6. Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate. (Na2HPO42H20)

7. Chemical balance accurate to at least ±0.01g.

8. Rubber Balls with Stainless Steel core.

9. The Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame and Clamps.

10. Metal tape measure.

11. Non-rusting mesh trays, large enough to lay a specimen flat while relaxing.

12. Stability template and percentage ruler.

13. Metal ruler with mm graduations.

TEST SPECIMEN Note:

You are advised to read the whole of this section before commencing specimen preparation.

Framing Garments....Refer to Marks & Spencer Method of Test P2, “Stability

Measurements using the Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame”.

All garments are prepared and measured before and after washing/tumble drying.

WASH LOAD .....

The test specimen, which must not comprise of more than 1kg, should be weighed and the total load made up to 2kg by the addition of sufficient makeweights.

DETERGENT......

No detergent is required for either the MSK or MSTD. Part B – MSTD is adjusted to pH 8.0 by the addition of:

1.70g sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate, and

45.00g disodium hydrogen orthophosphate dihydrate

dissolved in approximately 0.5 litres of water at 40°C.

METHOD..... The Wascator should be set up as described in Method of Test P1, Part A, B, C or D ‘Preparation of Wascator for Stability Washes’.

WASHING ......

Note:You are advised to read the whole of Washing, Part A and B before commencing testing.

PART A - MSK........

1. Place the 2kg wash load in the Wascator. Ensure the specimen is not folded. Close the door.

2. For Wascator FOM 71S:

(a) Set the thermostat pointer to 40°C (Blue triangle).

(b) Set water level to 160mm wash, 200mm rinse.

Or, for Wascator FOM 71MP and FOM 71MP/LAB and 71CLS. Select the stability wash programme MSK.

3. Start the Wascator, DO NOT add any chemicals or detergent.

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the Test specimen, taking care not to distort it.

DRYING.......

Clean the filter on the tumble dryer prior to use. Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave a total load equivalent to 1kg when dry. Tumble dry the remaining makeweights and Test specimen for 70 minutes on a hot setting (to give an exhaust temperature of 65°C ± 15°C).

RELAXATION.......

Where only frame measurements are specified relaxation is not necessary.

MEASUREMENT .......

The specimen should be remeasured according to Test Method P2, ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame’.

The measurements are recorded for use after the next washing/drying stage.

Note: After the MSK III at 40°C, the garment should be examined. Comment on changes in appearance compared to the original specimen, e.g., surface disturbance, or colour loss.

WASHING........ PART B – MSTD

ONLY ONE SPECIMEN SHOULD BE TESTED PER WASH LOAD.

1. Place the 2kg wash load, plus 12 Rubber Balls with Stainless Steel cores, in the Wascator. Ensure the test specimen is not folded. Close the door.

2. For Wascator FOM 71S:

(a) Set the thermostat pointer to 40°C (Blue

triangle).

(b) Set water levels to 100mm wash, 130mm rinse.

Or, for Wascator FOM 71MP and FOM 71MP/LAB

and 71CLS Select the stability wash programme MSTD.

3. Start the Wascator and add the prepared chemical mix (see Detergent section), by pouring it through the dispenser when the water is first visible in the sight tube. (DO NOT add any detergent.)

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimen, taking care not to distort it.

DRYING...... Clean the filter on the tumble dryer prior to use.

Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave a total load equivalent to 1kg when dry. Remove the 12 Rubber Balls with Stainless Steel cores and allow to dry on mesh trays. DO NOT tumble dry the Rubber Balls with Stainless Steel cores. Tumble dry the remaining makeweights and test specimen for 70 minutes on a hot setting (to give an exhaust temperature of 65°C ± 15°C).

RELAXATION.. Where only frame measurements are specified relaxation is not necessary.

MEASUREMENT.....

The Test specimen should be remeasured according to Test Method P2, ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame’.

RESULTS......

The dimensional stability is calculated for the MSK test, and for the combined MSK+MSTD test, as follows:

1. Dimensional Stability to Washing/Tumble drying MSK.

Frame....

{(Original measurement – Measurement after MSK) / Original measurement}

x 100 = % change

2. Dimensional Stability to Washing/Tumble drying MSK + MSTD.

{(Original measurement – Measurement after MSTD) / Original measurement}

x 100 = % change

The report should state the following:

1. The percentage change after MSK.

2. The appearance after MSK.

3. The percentage change after MSK+MSTD.

See Method of Test P2, ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame’, result section for reporting information.

TEST PROCEDURE FOR FLAT MEASUREMENT....

TEST SPECIMEN:Weft Knitted Fabrics

Avoid fabric within 50mm of the selvedges. Fabrics require either a double thickness of tubular fabric or a single piece of fabric folded to give a double thickness. Fold the fabric selvedge to selvedge. Position the template parallel to the selvedge. (N.B. This may not be parallel to

the wales.) The template consists of 12 slots (positions 1 to 12 on the diagram) and 8 holes (positions 1 to 6, 9 and 10).The distance between each pair of slots/holes is 350mm.

Use a texpen to mark through the holes onto one side of the double thickness of fabric.

After marking the specimen IN THE NUMERICAL

SEQUENCE INDICATED IN THE DIAGRAMS, draw a line around the template. Cut along this line without rounding off the corners to provide a 500mm square

specimen for testing. To prevent laddering, overlock the two thicknesses

together along the two sides in the length direction and across one side in the width direction. Do not round off corners.

Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on the fourth side so as to form a bag.

For narrow diameter (less than 500mm) tubular fabrics, the specimen width is limited to the natural width of the fabric. Mark two sets of gauge marks in the length direction using the template. Then, using a metric ruler, measure and record the two width distances between these gauge marks, to the nearest millimetre. In all other respects, prepare the specimen as for weft knitted fabrics.

Garments......

Mark two lengths and two widths approximately 25mm in from the side seams and the top or bottom of the garment. Measure using a metric ruler, record these measurements

to the nearest millimetre.Trims and attachments, e.g. collars, cuffs, welts and stolling should also be measured where appropriate.Turn garments inside out before marking and measuring. All garments must be washed face side outwards and with all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary instruction.

All garments are prepared and measured before and after washing/tumble drying.

WASHING..... Carry out the washing/tumble drying procedure as described in Part A – MSK.

RELAXATION...... Lay the specimen individually on the mesh trays for a minimum of 4 hours before measuring.

MEASUREMENT..... The specimen should be placed with the minimum of

handling on an adequately sized flat surface prior to re-measuring. This should be the nearest corner bench, so that the measurements can be viewed face on in each direction.

Fabric.....

When measuring stability specimens after washing, hold the percentage scale against the specimen. Record the change in dimension between the three length marks and

three width marks. Do not move the specimen. Do not place the ruler flat on the specimen.

Garments....

Re-measure the positions marked on the specimen. The measurements are recorded for use after the next washing/drying stage.

WASHING.... Carry out the washing/tumble drying procedure as described in Part B – MSTD.

RELAXATION...... Lay the specimen individually on the mesh trays for a minimum of 4 hours before measuring.

MEASUREMENT.......

The specimen should be placed with the minimum of handling on an adequately sized flat surface prior to re-measuring. This should be the nearest corner bench, so that the measurements can be viewed face on in each direction.

Fabric....

When measuring stability specimens after washing, hold the percentage scale against the specimen. Record the change in dimension between the three length marks and

three width marks. Do not move the specimen. Do not place the ruler flat on the specimen.

Garments....

Re-measure the positions marked on the specimen. The measurements are recorded for use after the next washing/drying stage.

RESULTS.....

The dimensional stability is calculated for the MSK test, and for the combined MSK+MSTD test, as follows:

1. Dimensional Stability to Washing/Tumble drying MSK.

Fabric.....

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

( a) the average of the 3 lengths as a percentage,

( b) the average of the 3 widths as a percentage.

Garments....

Re-measure and calculate the percentage change as

follows:

{(Original measurement – Measurement after MSK) / Original measurement}

x 100 = % change

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

( a) the average of the 2 lengths as a percentage,

( b) the average of the 2 widths as a percentage.

2. Dimensional Stability to Washing/Tumble drying MSK + MSTD

Fabric....

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

( a) the average of the 3 lengths as a percentage,

( b) the average of the 3 widths as a percentage.

Garments....

Re-measure and calculate the percentage change as

follows: {(Original measurement – Measurement after MSTD) / Original measurement}

x 100 = % change

Report the change in dimension by quoting:

( a) the average of the 2 lengths as a percentage,

( b) the average of the 2 widths as a percentage.

The report should state the following:

1. The percentage change after MSTD.

P5A

P5A - WASCATOR” DURABILITY WASH FOR GARMENTS AND COMPONENTS

PURPOSE..... To assess the durability to washing of garments and

components, except for knitwear.

APPARATUS .....

1. Wascator FOM 71 MP Lab Model or 71CLS with Durability Wash programme.

2. Tumble dryer (or domestic tumble dryer which meets same specification).

3. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights .

4. Non-rusting mesh drying trays.

5. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load.

6. Chemical balance accurate to at least ± 0.01g.

TEST SPECIMEN ....Whole or part garments.

IMPORTANT: COMPONENTS AND ACCESSORIES (e.g. motifs, trims, zips, buttons, studs, etc.) MUST BE ATTACHED TOTHE GARMENT IN THE MANNER

TO BE USED FOR PRODUCTION.

In certain instances, when components are being tested by the component supplier (e.g. buttons, zips etc), they may be attached to a Marks and Spencer polyester makeweight

(e.g. two buttons on both sides of the makeweight, one zip attached diagonally across the makeweight). Garment Test specimens and zip specimens should be

examined, prior to washing, paying particular attention to those points itemised under ‘Examination and Reporting of Results’. For other components and accessories - refer to the appropriate Performance Standards for details. It is recommended that a second garment is retained for comparison afterwash.

METHOD BEFORE PROCEEDING ENSURE ALL DETAILS IN METHOD OF TEST P1 PART C OR P1 PART D HAVE BEEN COMPLIED WITH.

NB: For these durability washes, both WASH and RINSE water levels should be 100mm.

Detergent Mix 5g of a heavy duty low lather powder detergent containing optical brightening agent in approximately 0.5 litres of warm water.

Temperature Temperature used must relate to the HLCC care label, i.e.

Garments and components with a:-

50°C label Wash at 60°C ±-2ºC

40°C label Wash at 50°C ±-2ºC

Wash Load 1kg.

Test specimen should be weighed and the wash load made up to 1kg by the addition of the makeweights.

All garments must be washed face side outwards and with all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary instruction.

Procedure.......

1. Place the wash load in the Wascator. Ensure test specimens are not folded. Close the door.

2. Select the appropriate wash programme.

3. Start the Wascator and add the prepared detergent mix by pouring it through the dispenser when water is first visible in the sight tube. This will help keep the sight tube clean and prevent undissolved detergent collecting.

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimens, taking care not to distort them.

Drying.......

All specimens with fused components, including fused motifs, must be tumble dried (including garments that will be labelled as “Do not tumble dry”).

Other garments should also be tumble dried unless the care label gives a contrary instruction. When tumble drying, the load should be made up to 1kg

with makeweights if required. The tumble dryer should be operated at the HOT setting. The specimen should be tumbled for 90 minutes in the case of samples containing

fused components or motifs. Otherwise, tumble until dry.

EXAMINATION AND REPORTING RESULTS ....

The effect of washing should be assessed by comparison with the examination made prior to washing.

Garments.......

Report the wash temperature and the method of drying used. Comment on the following and, where appropriate, indicate the position on the specimen.

1. Differential Shrinkage which may have occurred between fabric components, e.g. dropped or tight linings, seam pucker, distortion of components.

2. Seam Breakdown including inadequate seams, partial or non-inclusion, faulty thread or stitching, fabric slippage, fraying from seam turnings, stitching damage, run back.

3. Fused Components which may have delaminated, or otherwise changed in appearance, differential shrinkage/bobbling.

4. Change in handle or appearance where

significant.

Assess the following points in the Light Cabinet, using D65 Artificial Daylight, or UV where

indicated.

5. Effect on accessories such as buttons, zips, care labels etc. (For Care Labels, grade loss of print as No, Negligible, Slight, Distinct or Complete).

6. Pick up of Optical Brightening Agent which may occur on certain substrates as a result of the optical brightener present in the detergent. Check under UV light.

7. Colour Fastness Some degree of shade change, cross-staining between components or staining of wash liquor may occur. This does not necessarily indicate a colour fastness problem but if in doubt the appropriate Marks and Spencer colour fastness Tests

should be carried out.

Zips

Assess the zips numerically as below:-

5. No Change in Appearance

4. Negligible Change in Appearance very slight chipping/abrasion on prominent edges.

3. Slight Change in Appearance marked chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller

attachment and/or very slight loss of lustre/sheen/finish

2. Fairly Distinct Change in Appearance significant chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or

puller attachment and/or moderate loss of lustre/sheen/finish

1. Distinct Change in Appearance excessive chipping/abrasion on puller, slider or puller

attachment and/or distinct loss of lustre/sheen/finish.

For component and accessories, refer to the appropriate Performance

Standards for details of assessment points.

Ironing or Pressing.......

Motifs must not be ironed.....

In other cases, after examination and reporting it may be necessary to iron and press the test specimen for further evaluation. Such ironed or pressed specimens must be

clearly identified as such in order not to subsequently mislead.

TENSILE STRENGTH

P11 - TENSILE STRENGTH

PURPOSE ......To assess the tensile strength of woven fabrics.

APPARATUS ........

1. A constant rate of traverse tensile testing instrument

that meets the following requirements (see Equipment Index Ref: 13U, 16A, 18A and 24D)

(a) Load cell with 50kg capacity.

(b) 100mm per minute constant rate of traverse.

(c) Pneumatically operated top and bottom sample jaws each with a pair of rubber jaw faces that give an area of contact when closed together of 75mm x 25mm.

(d) Initial separation between the top and bottom jaw faces of 200mm.

either

Autographic load/extension chart recorder compatible with these requirements and the testing instruments.

A computer with Marks and Spencer approved software and printer may be used.

2. Metal ruler with mm graduations (see test method PG).

TEST SPECIMEN Three strips 300mm long in the direction of test, frayed down to EXACTLY 50mm wide. USE A METAL RULER FOR ACCURACY.

Avoid fabric within 50mm of selvedges and ensure that no two samples contain the same set of warp and weft threads.

CONDITIONING..... Dry Test

Condition the prepared test specimens for a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere for testing, at a temperature of 20˚ ± 2˚C and a relative humidity of 65% ± 2%.

The equipment must be sited in this atmosphere.

Carry out the tests in this atmosphere.

Wet Test

Where the performance standard requires wet tensile strength, wet the specimens thoroughly with distilled water at 20˚ ± 2˚C, blot off excess moisture with a paper towel. Test the specimen immediately at this temperature.

METHOD 1. Ensure that the testing equipment is set up exactly as

described under ‘Apparatus’ above and calibrated according to the manufacturers instructions.

2. Mount a specimen centrally and vertically in the jaw ensuring that no tension is applied. Set the machine in motion and measure the load required to break the specimen (see note 1).

Repeat this procedure for the remaining two specimens.

RESULTS 1. Report the range of results.

2. Report the average result to the nearest 0.5kg.

3. Report how the specimens were tested:-

i) Direction of test (i.e. warp or weft)

ii) Dry or wet.

NOTES 1. If one specimen breaks along the jaw line at a

substantially lower value than the others it should be discarded and a fresh specimen tested. This usually occurs because the specimen has been mounted incorrectly.

P99B

P99B - Label Wash Procedure using a Domestic Machine

Purpose.........To determine the stability and appearance of a product following a an M&S or

Competitor’s domestic wash and dry procedure.

Equipment......

1. Domestic Automatic Washing Machine European Horizontal Drum Type

2. Balance capable of weighing up to 2kg

3. Marks & Spencer Standard Makeweights (see note1)

4. Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame (for knitwear suppliers) and lamps.

5. Volumetric Legs and/or Sock Boards. See Marks & Spencer test method P4 and P4A for equipment information.

6. Metal Tape Measure, for critical measurements a fabric tape may be appropriate.

7. Domestic Tumble Dryer, 4kg load

8. Non-Rusty Mesh Trays, large enough to lay a specimen on while drying / relaxing

9. Washing Detergent, Powders Not concentrates Automatic - Whites Automatic - Colours Wools and Silks - Liquid or Powder.

10. Domestic steam iron

Method.....

Measure, Frame or Fit Products according to individual product type, any of the

following may apply:-

1. Key Critical Measurements

2. Two Lengths and Two Widths

3. Frame Knitwear in accordance with Marks & Spencer test method P2.

4. For Weft knitted garments spirality is to be calculated in accordance with Marks & Spencer test method P.1B

5. Fit of Underwear, Leisurewear, Swimwear, Slippers, Gloves, Shoes

6. Measure and report socks and tights in accordance with Marks & Spencer test method P4 and P4A .

Wash Load.....

Test specimens should be weighed and must not compromise of More than 1kg and the load made up to 2kg by the addition of sufficient makeweights

Detergent........

For Powders - 120 g

For Liquids - As advised on the bottle measure using a measuring cylinder

Washing......

Products to be label washed as follows:-

Measure products as stated in ‘Method’ section prior to and after the 3 washes

Carry out label wash and dry x3 as per label

Knitwear and socks should be stretched between each wash on an appropriate size frame or form

1. Select wash programme in accordance with the product care instruction label 2. Place the wash load in the Washing Machine ensuring specimens are not folded 3. Set programme in line with Product Care Label requirements

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimens, taking care not to distort them.

Tumble Dry......

Clean the filter on the Tumble dryer prior to use. Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave a load equivalent to kg when dry. Tumble dry at hot setting as follows:-

Minimum minutes

Synthetics (Nylon, Polyester, Acetate) 45

Wool & Wool Blends 70

Cellulosics (including Viscose) and Blends 90

The time which includes a 10 minute cool down is necessary to completely dry the 1kg load.

Relaxation..........

After Tumble Drying relax the product for a minimum of 4 hours before Re-measuring.

Where frame only measurements are specified, relaxation is not necessary

Measurement..............

Re-measure product after 3 washes unless otherwise specified where appropriate re-fit.

Iron .............(If required) Iron in accordance with the care labels, re-measure the products.

Report................

a) The wash carried out:-

for example:- 50°C label wash and tumble dry b) For Each product Quote original and after x3 wash and dry measurements and report mm change and % change c) Ironing – if appropriate Re-measure after ironing and quote in addition to washed measurements d) Appearance of the product after washing including following ironing such as glazing, thread ends and so on.

e) The original length/width/frame measurements and where applicable comments following fit

f) The change of each length and width in mm and

a percentage following label wash (and tumble dry) and where

applicable comments following the re-fitting of the product

g) The change from original measurements of each length

and width in mm and as a percentage on ironed garments

h) The Spirality of weft knit jersey fabrics (see M&S Quality Standards web site Test method P1B)

i) For reporting framed measurements & Spirality refer to Marks & Spencer Quality Standards website - Test methods P1B and P2.

P17

P17 - Martindale Pilling

PURPOSE.......... To assess the resistance of woven shirting and sheeting fabrics to pilling.

APPARATUS .......

1. Martindale abrasion machine.

2. Felt

3. Polyether foam.

4. Pilliscope .

5. Photographic standards.

TEST SPECIMEN ....

Avoid fabric within 50mm of the selvedge. Take a specimen of sufficient size to cut four 150mm squares and four circles 38mm diameter. Wash as described in Method of Test P1A ‘ Wascator Stability Washes’ using the appropriate washing stability test required by the performance standard.

After drying procedure, cut four 150mm squares. Cut four 38mm circles from a diagonal strip of the fabri c. Mark warp direction on back using a short line on each specimen.

METHOD.....

1. Place one test specimen circle face down in the base of each sample holder. Cover each specimen with a circle of polyether foam 38mm in diameter (see note 2). Place on top of the foam the interior metal specimen support and assemble the top and base of the specimen holder.

2. Place a 150mm circle/square of felt on each of the base plates (see note 1).

3. Place one 150mm square of the washed fabric over each of the circles/squares of felt. Ensure the fabric has an even tension by using the tensioning weight (provided with the machine). Secure the fabric in position with the retaining frame and remove the tensioning weight.

4. Secure the four specimen holders to the top plate using the metal spindles so that the fabric face of each of the specimens is in contact with the fabric on its respective base plate. DO NOT USE

ADDITIONAL WEIGHTS.

5. Run the machine for:

Mens and boys shirting 100 revolutions

Sheeting 400 revolutions

ASSESSMENT.....

The tested specimens should be graded on the pilliscope which should be sited in a dark room or curtained off area.

Mount the four tested specimens on card against original unwashed fabric so that the specimens are positioned with the warp direction running down the card. Using the pilliscope compare the specimens against the Marks and Spencer photographic standards (Copyright 1984) and the original unwashed fabric.

RESULTS..... Report the average of the four results to the nearest 1/2 grade.

NOTES .......

1. Felt used in the test should be non woven and mass per unit area should be 750g ± 50g/m2 and 3 ± 0.5mm thick. The felt should be renewed when soiled or after 100 hours of testing. The new felt should be covered with worsted repp and prepared in contact with 9kPa loading specimen holder for 25,000 revolutions. The felt should be re-tensioned with the retaining frame every 5,000 revolutions during the preparation period.

2. Use polyether foam complying with the following specification as determined by BSEN ISO 845: 1995 for Flexible Cellular foams:-

Density 27-33kg/m3 Indentation hardness 170-120N

Thickness 3 ± 1mm.

The foam should be stored in the dark to prevent discolouration. If the foam discolours/yellows during storage it must not be used and should be replaced. A new foam piece should be used for each test.

P19

P19 - MARTINDALE ABRASION RESISTANCE OF APPAREL FABRICS

PURPOSE..... To assess the abrasion resistance of fabrics to wear.

APPARATUS

1. Martindale Abrasion Machine .

2. Worsted repp.

3. Felt.

4. Polyether foam.

5. 125mm curved fine point scissors.

6. Reflectance microscope or magnifier with 20x-30x magnification.

TEST SPECIMEN.....

Avoiding fabric within 50mm of the selvedges, cut a DIAGONAL piece of fabric approximately 225mm x 60mm. From this, cut out four circular specimens each 38mm in diameter so that they do not contain the same warp or weft threads. Staple the fabric from which the circles have been cut onto a white card of suitable size.

CONDITIONING.......

The four test specimens, the samples of polyether foam and a sufficient number of 150mm square pieces or circles of new worsted repp should be conditioned for a minimum of 4 hours in the standard atmosphere for testing, at a temperature of 20° ± 2°C and a relative

humidity of 65% ± 2%.

The equipment must be sited in this atmosphere.

Carry out the tests in this atmosphere.

METHOD......

1. Place one test specimen face down in the base of each sample holder. Cover each specimen with a new piece of polyether foam 38mm in diameter. Place the interior metal specimen support on top of the foam and assemble the top and base of the specimen holder.

2. Place a 150mm circle of felt on each of the base plates.

3. Place one 150mm square or circle of new worsted repp, face side up, over each of the circles of felt. Ensure the repp has an even tension by using the tensioning weight (provided with the machine).

Secure the repp in position with the retaining frame. Remove tensioning weight. THE WORSTED REPP MUST BE RENEWED AFTER EACH TEST OR AFTER 25,000 REVS. WHICHEVER IS THE SOONER.

4. Secure the four specimen holders to the top plate using the metal spindles so that the fabric face of each of the specimens is in contact with the worsted repp on its respective base plate.

5. Place a weight on each of the spindles which will give a total weight of 595g (equivalent to 9kPa) on each of the specimen holders.

6. Run the abrasion machine to 5,000 revolutions and then make an initial inspection for breakdown as follows. Please note that the correct speed setting is 47.5 ±2.5 r.p.m

7. Without damaging the threads of the test specimen, cut away any pills which are attached to the surface using the curved scissors. Without removing the test specimens from the specimen holders, examine the test specimens for signs of breakdown, using 20-30x

magnification. Breakdown is deemed to have occurred when two or more threads have completely broken. Remove any specimens which have broken down. Record the number of revolutions at which this has occurred.

8. If pills formed at 5,000 revs. the machine is then run for a further 5,000 revs. re-inspected as described in point 7 and then run and similarly re-inspected at 1,000 rev. intervals until breakdown has occurred or the performance standard has been attained.

9. If no pills have formed on any head at the initial 5,000 revs. inspection, run the machine to two thirds of the number of revolutions specified in the appropriate performance standard and then inspect for breakdown as described in point 7.

Thereafter continue to run and re-inspect at 1,000 rev. intervals until the specimen has broken down or the performance standard has been attained.

RESULTS......

For each of the four test specimens

1. Report the number of revolutions at which breakdown occurred. In the absence of breakdown on all four test specimens, state that no breakdown has occurred up to the specified number of revolutions”.

2. State the number of revolutions at which fabrics were inspected, and comment if pills have been removed.

3. Staple the tested specimens into the holes in the original fabrics from which they were cut. Using the grey scales for change of shade, compare the abraded specimens with the original and report the change of shade due to abrasion. The assessment should be carried out in a colour matching cabinet using D65 artificial Daylight source.

ABRASION AGAINST SELF.....

When the performance standard stipulates a ‘Martindale Abrasion Test Against Self’, mount a piece of fabric under investigation (150mm x 150mm) on each of the base plates instead of the worsted repp as described in point 3 of the method. The self-fabric is not changed during the test. The remainder of the test procedure remains unaltered.

PROGRESSIVE MARTINDALE ABRASION (For fabrics with a raised finish)..........

When the performance standard stipulates ‘Progressive Martindale Abrasion’, carry out the normal Martindale Abrasion test method up to and including point 4. Then, WITHOUT ADDING ANY WEIGHT, run the machine to 2,000 revs. Remove the test specimens for assessment BUT DO NOT REMOVE ANY PILLS THAT MAY HAVE

FORMED. Repeat this procedure with four new test specimens, but

using the same worsted repp and run the machine for 4,000 revs.

At each of the two stages separately assess the loss of surface and the degree of pilling as:

None

Negligible

Slight

FROSTING..........

When performance standard stipulates ‘Frosting’ prepare a total of five test specimens. Using four of them, carry out the normal Martindale Abrasion test method up to and including point 5. Then run the abrasion machine for a total of 4,000 revolutions, stopping to remove a single specimen and make an assessment after each 1,000 revolutions. The fifth specimen is then mounted and the

abrasion machine run for 5,000 revolutions whereupon this specimen is removed and assessed.

Assess the loss of change of shade of the test specimens

visually and describe them as:-

None

Negligible

Slight

Fairly Distinct

Distinct

NOTES.......

1. Felt used in this test should be non-woven and the mass per unit area should be 750 ± 50g/m2 and 3 ± 0.5mm thick. The felt should be renewed when soiled or after 100 hours of testing (300,000

revolutions). New felt should be covered with worsted repp and prepared in contact with an empty specimen holder with a 9 kPa loading for a total of 25,000 revolutions. After every 5,000 revolutions during the preparation period, the felt should be re-tensioned by using the tensioning weight and by readjusting the retaining frame.

2. Use polyether foam complying with the following specification as determined by BSEN ISO 845: 1995 for Flexible Cellular foams:-

Density: 27-33 kg/m3

Indentation hardness: 170-210N

Thickness 3 ± 1mm.

The foam should be stored in the dark to prevent discolouration. If the foam discolours/yellows during storage, it must not be used and should be replaced. A new foam piece should be used for each test.

3. Pairs of 125mm curved fine point scissors for cutting off pills are available from most chemist and hardware shops.

P27

P27 - BURSTING STRENGTH

PURPOSE ....To determine the maximum pressure required to cause a fabric to rupture.

APPARATUS.......

A pneumatic bursting strength tester ( with:

1. Transparent clamp bell 80mm diameter for all fabrics except Lace. For Lace, use 30mm diameter.

2. Pressure gauge to indicate air supply pressure.

3. Air supply valve to increase pressure at the specified rate.

4. Pressure gauge with adequate range to indicate bursting pressure.

5. For tester 13BL: 1mm thick plain rubber diaphragm reference 777-134.

6. Diaphragm test area:-

Fabrics 50.3sqcm (80mm diameter)

All Laces 7.1sqcm (30mm diameter).

TEST SPECIMEN....... Fabric and Knitwear.....

Avoid fabric within 50mm of selvedges. 10 squares of fabric (each approximately 140mm x 140mm) selected as representatively as possible;

A diagonally cut specimen 140mm wide and at least 1400mm long. On heavy fabrics cut the diagonal piece into squares.

All Laces

Laces narrower than 40mm cannot be tested.

CONDITIONING......

Condition the prepared test specimens for a minimum of 4

hours in the standard atmosphere for testing, at a temperature of 20°C ± 2°C and a relative humidity of 65% ± 2%.

The equipment must be sited in this atmosphere. Carry out the tests in this atmosphere.

Wet Test

Soak the specimens in a relaxed state for 15 minutes in distilled water at 20°C. Blot off excess moisture with a paper towel and test whilst wet. Dry machine between inflations.

METHOD.....

1. Calibrate the bursting strength tester as described in Appendix A or Appendix B.

Check and adjust air supply pressure to between 420kPa and 630kPa.

Adjust the air supply valve of the bursting strength tester (if not already fitted with a fixed valve) to give the specified rate of loading (rate of inflation in kPa/s). See Appendix A and Appendix B for details.

2. Place and clamp the specimen without any tension between the rubber diaphragm and the top clamping ring. Press button to let air in to the diaphragm. Release button when the sample bursts and record the bursting strength to the nearest 1kPa. If the sample does not burst do not exceed the red line. 3. Repeat the process at a further nine places. Wherever possible no two test areas should have the same warp or weft yarns.

RESULTS.........

1. Report the average and the range of the ten bursting

strengths to the nearest 5kPa.

2. State if test was carried out wet.

3. Report which clampbell was used.

NOTES..........

1. 1kg/cm2 = 98.1kPa.

1lb/in2 = 6.89kPa.

2. The diaphragm should be replaced after every 300 inflations. It is recommended to keep records of use to ensure frequency of replacement.

3. Dependent on the garment and styling certain areas of the lace design should not be tested.

The specific test areas should be agreed between the garment maker and fabric supplier. Use of photocopies of the lace may be helpful.

APPENDIX A

CALIBRATION OF THE MESSMER BURSTING

STRENGTH TESTER

1. Check that the supply pressure is between 420kPa (60psi) and 630kPa (90psi). The supply pressure dial is on the left hand side of the machine.

2. After bringing down the guard bar and the clamp bell check that the clamp pressure gauge is on 420kPa (60psi). The clamp pressure gauge is the central dial of

the machine. If it is not adjust control knob (at the front of the machine) to achieve this and re-check.

3. Check the speed of test by placing a metal plate or several layers of card between the clamp bell and the diaphragm. Pull down the guard bar (red and black arrows should be on zero each time). Press the button allowing the air into the diaphragm and ensure speed is

70 kPa/s :- 210kPa in 3 seconds or 280kPa in 4 seconds (10psi).

Do not exceed red line pressure gauge (if the red line is exceeded the accuracy of the gauge will be poor).

Repeat at least 5 times.

4. If the machine is not working check:-

(a) Supply connector is pushed in properly.

(b) Circular nut below the close/open switch for the

clamp bell is tightened properly.

APPENDIX B

CALIBRATION OF THE HEALS TRUBURST BURSTING STRENGTH TESTER

1. Check that the supply pressure from the compressor is 6 ± 0.2 bar. (600 ± 20 kPa or 87 ± 3 PSI).

2. Ensure the Perspex Guard is in place. The instrument will not operate if it is not.

3. Lower the Test Dome (clamp bell) and check that the Clamp Pressure Gauge is 420 kPa (61psi). The Clamp Pressure Gauge is located on the left hand side of the instrument. If it is not then adjust the control knob next to the gauge to adjust and then re-check.

4. From the instrument display, choose Select Standard

and then select :-

M&S P27 (Fabric) or

M&S P27 (Lace)

5. Fit the correct Test Dome as appropriate for Fabric or Lace.

6. Check the testing pressure rate by placing the metal plate between the Test Dome and the Clamp Ring / Diaphragm. Ensure the Perspex Guard is in place.

7. From the display press the Clamp key and the Test Dome will move down. From the display press the Test key allowing the air into the Diaphragm. Stop the test after 5s.

For Fabrics, ensure rate is 120 kPa in 5s (24 ± 1 kPa/s).

For Laces, ensure the rate is 225 kPa in 5s (45 ± 1 kPa/s).

When correct, repeat at least 4 times.

8. If the pressure rate requires adjustment, use the Valve Control on the right hand side of the instrument. This is a sensitive needle valve used to control the flow of compressed gasses.

9. If the instrument is not working check the following:-

(a) The Perspex Guard is in place.

(b) The correct Test Dome is fitted.

(d) The O-ring below Clamp Ring / Diaphragm is

fitted.

(e) Diaphragm is not damaged / leaking.

Please Note:

M&S P27 capability is only available on “TruBurst2 Dual Control”. The standard TruBurst2 cannot be used for this test method.

Dual Control can be retro-fitted to the standard TruBurst2 (Model 810 only) but is not available on the earlier TruBurst 600 series of instruments.

P29

P29 - TEAR STRENGTH

PURPOSE..........To assess the tear strength of woven fabrics.

APPARATUS

1. “Elmendorf ” tear strength tester with a pendulum exerting a maximum force of 1631g (16000 mN) (Pendulum B).

OR Elmatear (Equipment Index Ref: 13AY) (Pendulum A, B and C)

2. Marks and Spencer blade for ‘Elmendorf ’ to achieve cut of 15mm.

3. Metal ruler (mm). (See Test Method PG).

4. 50mm x 50mm de-sized bleached cotton lawn without finish.

TEST SPECIMEN.......

Avoid fabric within 50mm of selvedge. Five test specimens should be prepared from the fabric according to the direction in which they will be tested. Ensure that no two specimens contain the same set of warp and weft threads. The specimen size is 80mm x 58mm. The specimen should be frayed down from both edges to achieve the correct dimension of 58mm Trim back one of the frayed edges to the fabric.

This trimmed edge can then be inserted downwards into the clamp. For Weft Tear Strength The 58mm dimension is in the warp direction and the 80mm dimension is in the weft direction. The tear is across the weft threads.

For Warp Tear Strength....

The 58mm dimension is in the weft direction and the 80mm dimension is in the warp direction. The tear is across the warp threads.

CONDITIONING......

Standard Test - sample preparation.....

Condition the prepared test specimens for a minimum of 4 h o u rs in the standard atmosphere for testing, at a temperature of 20° ± 2°C and a relative humidity of 65% ± 2%.

Wet Test – sample preparation......

Wet out the sample in distilled water until wet throughout. Blot off excess water off fabric surface with absorbent paper.

TEST CONDITIONS....

20° ± 2°C AND A RELATIVE HUMIDITY OF 65% ± 2%. The equipment must be sited in this atmosphere. Carry out the tests in this atmosphere.

PREPARATION OF ELMENDORF TEAR STRENGTH TESTER..........

For calibration of H.E. Messmer Ltd. Elmendorf machine see the Appendix.

For all other models, calibration should be carried out according to the manufacturers’ instructions.

METHOD..........

1. Clamp a test specimen in the jaws so that the 80mm side of the specimen with the trimmed edge is parallel to the base and the 58mm side of the specimen is at right angles to the base.

2. Make the cut in the specimen - Please note that the size of the cut should be 15mm.

3. Set the pointer to the starting position.

4. Depress the pendulum stop to release the pendulum. Allow the pendulum to swing a full cycle before releasing the stop.

5. Read off and record the position of the pointer on the scale.

6. Repeat steps 1 to 5 inclusive for the four remaining specimens in this manner.

RESULTS..........

For Machines Graduated from 0 to 1000 mN....

Take each result, multiply it by 16 and divide this figure by 9.81 to convert the result to grammes. Report the range, average and the direction (warp or weft) in which the tests were made.

For Machines Graduated from 0 to 100 grammes....

Take each result and multiply this figure by 16 to give the result in grammes. Report the range, average and the direction (warp or weft) in which the tests were made.

APPENDIX:

ZEROING PROCEDURE FOR H.E. MESSMER LTD.

- ELMENDORF TEAR STRENGTH TESTER

A. Levelling Screw

B. Levelling Screw

C. Pendulum Release Lever

D. Pointer Stop

E. Pointer Retaining Knob

F. Friction Spring Housing

G. Knurled Lock Nut

H. Jaws

I. Pointer

J. Pendulum

1. Clamp shut the jaws without any specimens.

2. Use the levelling screw A to set the spirit level located at the rear of the apparatus.

3. With the pendulum already in the released position (as above) depress the release lever and ensure that the reference line in the centre of the pendulum is aligned to the reference line on the datum block at the base of the tester. Use the levelling screw on the extreme left (B) for

any necessary adjustments.

4. Raise the pendulum to its operating position so that it is supported by the pendulum release lever (C). In this position the reference line on the pendulum, the reference line of the datum block and the pointer stop (D) should all coincide. The pointer stop can be adjusted if necessary.

5. Move the pointer so that the tip is against the pointer stop (D).

6. Allow the pendulum to swing freely by depressing the pendulum release lever, allow a full swing cycle before releasing the stop to act as a brake. The pointer must register zero ± 3mm either side of the zero line. Use a metal ruler to measure this tolerance. Repeat steps (4 to 6) a minimum of 3 times to establish that the machine is calibrated.

If the pointer does not register zero ± 3mm clean the pointer apparatus as follows:

- Remove the pointer by unscrewing the retaining knob. Clean the tufnol liner of the pointer hub with a cleaning spirit using a clean, dry linen type cloth. DO NOT USE OIL OF ANY TYPE.

Reassemble pointer and repeat steps 4 to 6 a minimum of 3 times.

If the pointer still fails to consistently register zero ± 3mm adjust the pointer friction as follows:

- The mechanism for adjustment is located in the friction spring housing (F). Slacken off knurled lock nut (G).

The friction can then be reset by increasing or decreasing the tension by careful adjustment of the rotating socket screw with the allen key supplied.

Tighten the knurled lock nut and repeat steps 4 to 6 a minimum of 3 times until the pointer registers zero ± 3mm when allowed to swing freely.

Continue with the procedure to check the length of cut before testing prepared specimens.

Important: The knife and its lever must be secure and only allow a downwards movement. The lever can be tightened with the allen screw situated at the back of the lever.

P99A

P99A - WASCATOR LABEL WASHES

PURPOSE.....To determine stability of fabrics and garments to washing by following the care label instructions.

APPARATUS...........

1. Wascator FOM 71S, 71MP, 71MP LAB or 71 CLS washing machine.

2. Stability template and percentage ruler.

3. Balance/scales which are capable of weighing up to 2kg in 25g graduations with a pan capable of holding a 2kg load.

4. Overlock sewing machine.

5. Marks and Spencer standard makeweights.

6. Tumble Dryer, (See PG and Equipment Index Ref: 13Y and 24S or domestic tumble dryer which meets same specification).

7. Non-rusting mesh trays, large enough to lay a specimen flat while drying/relaxing.

8. Metal ruler with mm graduations (see test method PG).

TEST SPECIMENS...........

Note: You are advised to read the whole of this

section before commencing specimen preparation.

All Fabrics

1. Avoid fabric within 50mm of the selvedges.

2. Place the template with one edge parallel to the length direction of the fabric. Mark the specimen using the procedure for the individual fabric types described below.

The template consists of 12 slots (positions 1 to 12 on the diagram) and 8 holes (positions 1 to 6, 9 and 10). The distance between each pair of slots/holes is 350mm.

3. After marking the specimen IN THE NUMERICAL SEQUENCE INDICATED IN THE DIAGRAMS draw a line around the template. Cut along this line without rounding off the corners to provide a 500mm square specimen for testing.

Woven or warp knit fabrics.... require only one thickness of fabric. Use a laundry marker to mark through the slots onto the fabric. Overlock edges of

woven specimens to prevent fraying, but do not round off the corners.

Sliver knits and heavy pile fabrics with coated backings.... require only one thickness of fabric. Use a texpen to mark the coated backing through the holes. Overlock edges to prevent fraying, but do not round off the corners.

Weft-knitted fabrics require..... either a double thickness of tubular fabric or a single piece of fabric folded to give a double thickness. Velours or brushed

fabrics are prepared with the pile side inside. Fold fabric selvedge to selvedge. Position template parallel to the selvedge. ( N. B. this may not be parallel to the wales ) . Use a texpen to mark through the holes onto

one side of the double thickness of fabric. To prevent laddering, overlock the two thicknesses together along the two sides in the length direction and across one side in the width direction. Do not round off corners. Individually overlock the two layers of fabric on the fourth side so as to form a bag.

For narrow diameter (less than 500mm) tubular fabrics the specimen width is limited to the natural width of the fabric. Mark two sets of gauge marks in

the length direction using the template. Then, using a metric ruler, measure and record the two width distances between these gauge marks, to the nearest millimetre. In all other respects, prepare the specimen as for weft knitted fabrics.

Garments and complete Homeware items (e.g.towels)....

Mark two lengths and two widths approximately 25mm in from the side seams and the top or bottom of the garment. Measure using a metric rule; record

these measurements to the nearest millimetre. Trims and attachments, e.g. collars, cuffs, welts and stolling should also be measured where appropriate. For knitwear, turn garments inside out before marking

and measuring. All garments must be washed face side outwards, with all fastenings undone, unless the care label gives a contrary instruction.

For Knitwear, refer to Method of Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements using the Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame’.

For Tights, refer to Method of Test P4 ‘Stability Measurements of Tights’.

For Socks, refer to Method of Test P4A ‘Stability Measurements of Socks’.

All flat measurements must be taken prior to measuring a specimen on the frame.

ALL TEST SPECIMENS should be examined prior to washing paying attention to those points quoted under ‘Appearance’ in the Results section.

WASH LOAD......

Test specimens, which must not comprise of more than 1kg, should be weighed and the load made up to 2kg by the addition of sufficient makeweights .

Fabric specimens must not be washed in the same load as garments or complete Homeware items. Only garments of the same composition and shade should be washed together.

DETERGENT........For Fabrics/Garments with Teflon finish, mix approximately 100g ECE Phosphate Reference detergent B and 25g sodium perborate in approximately 0.5 litres of warm water.

All other fabrics (where required) - mix 120g of a heavy duty low lather powder containing OBA in approximately 0.5 litres of warm water.

WASHING........

1. Place the wash load in the Wascator. Ensure test specimens are not folded. Close the door.

2.Select relevant ISO 6330:2012 wash programme in accordance with the product care label instructions( see Note 2 for wash program examples).

4. At the end of the wash programme, remove the specimens, taking care not to distort them.

DRYING.......

Dry products in accordance with the product care label

instruction – Tumble Dry/Dry Flat/Hang to Dry.

Tumble Dry.

Clean the filter on the Tumble dryer prior to use.

Remove 20 makeweights from the wash load to leave a load equivalent to kg when dry. Tumble dry at the Temperature / Heat setting indicated on the CARE LABEL as follows:-

Minimum minutes.........

Synthetics (Nylon, Polyester, Acetate) 45 min

Wool & Wool Blends 70 Min

Cellulosics (including Viscose) and Blends 90 Min

The time which includes a 10 minute cool down is necessary to completely dry the 1kg load.

RELAXATION.......

Lay the specimens individually on the mesh trays for a minimum of 4 hours before measuring. Where Test Method P2, P4 or P4A is being carried out (and no flat measurements are required) then relaxation is not necessary.

MEASUREMENT.........

Re-measure product after wash unless otherwise specified where appropriate re-fit. Re-measure and calculate the percentage change as follows:-

(Original measurement - Afterwash measurement) / Original measurement

x 100

IRON.....

(If required) Iron in accordance with the care labels, re-measure the products.

REPORT...........

For specimens with FLAT measurements, the specimen should be placed with the minimum of handling on an adequately sized flat surface prior to re-measuring. This should be the nearest corner bench, so that the stability ruler can be viewed face on in each direction.

For all changes in dimensions, indicate shrinkage as a minus symbol (-) and extension as a plus symbol (+). Dimensions should be quoted to the nearest millimetre;

percentages to the nearest 0.1 percent.

Fabric....

When measuring stability specimens after washing, hold the percentage ruler at an angle of approximately 45° to the fabric with percentage scale against the specimen. Record the change in dimension between the three length marks and three width marks. Do not move the specimen. Do not place the ruler flat on the specimen.

Report

(a) the average of the 3 lengths as a percentage

(b) the average of the 3 widths as a percentage

Where spirality of double thickness specimens has occurred refer to method of Test P1B. Measurement of spirality of Weft knitted fabrics and garments.

Garments, complete homeware items and narrow diameter knitted fabrics.

Report

a) The wash and drying method carried out:-

for example:- 50°C label wash and hot tumble dry

b) The number of washes

c) For Each product Quote original and after wash and dry measurements and

report mm change and % change

d) Ironing – if appropriate Re-measure after ironing and quote in addition to

washed measurements

e) Appearance

Comment on the following and, where appropriate, indicate the position on

the specimen.

1. Differential Shrinkage which may have occurred between fabric components,

e.g. dropped or tight linings, seam pucker, distortion of components.

2. Seam Breakdown including inadequate seams, partial or non-inclusion,

Faulty thread or stitching, fabric slippage, fraying from seam turnings, Stitching damage, run back.

3. Fused Components which may have delaminated or otherwise

changed in appearance, differential shrinkage/bubbling.

Quantify this as:-

No )

Negligible ) Delamination or otherwise

Slight ) changed in appearance

Fairly Distinct ) shrinkage/bubbling

Complete )

4. Change in handle or appearance where significant. Assess the

following points in the Light Cabinet, using D65. Artificial Daylight, or

UV where indicated.

5. Effect on accessories such as buttons, zips, care labels etc.

(For Care Labels, grade loss of print as No, Negligible, Slight, Distinct

or Complete).

6. Colour Fastness Some degree of shade change, cross-staining

between components or staining of wash liquor may occur. This does

not necessarily indicate a colour fastness problem but if in doubt the

appropriate Marks and Spencer colour fastness tests should be carried out.

f) The original length/width/frame measurements and where applicable

comments following fit

g) The change of each length and width in mm and a percentage following

label wash (and tumble dry) and where applicable comments following the

re-fitting of the product

h) The change from original measurements of each length and width in mm

and as a percentage on ironed garments

i) The Spirality of weft knit jersey fabrics (see M&S Supplier Exchange web site

Test method P1B)

j) For reporting framed measurements & Spirality refer to Marks & Spencer

Supplier Exchange website - Test methods P1B and P2. Shedding of Fibre

After measuring pile or brushed specimens examine both sides of the specimen; report any significant shedding of fibre.

Notes..........

1. It is not necessary to use dry makeweights as they are known to individually weigh 50g when dry. For this reason they should be counted when preparing the 2kg wash load, not weighed.

C59

C59 - DETERMINATION pH OF TEXTILES

PURPOSE The purpose of this test is to assess the acidity or alkalinity of the aqueous extract from a textile fabric. It is known that excessive acidity or alkalinity may be result in skin irritation of

some very sensitive skinned people. The results also provides a useful reference to the fabric's processing history.

The method is applicable to textiles in any form, and offers a choice of extracting medium either distilled/deionised water or potassium chloride solution.

This Synopsis is for guidance only. For full details refer to

BS EN 1413: 1998 Textiles – Determination of p H of aqueous extract.

Carry out the British Standard Test as detailed with the following amendment.

The calibration of the p H meter with commercially available standard buffer solutions is acceptable, provided certificates of analysis for each buffer solution showing traceability to national standards is supplied.

C56

C56 - NICKEL SCREENING TEST – (Swab Test)

PURPOSE ..... To give a quick simple in-house assessment for the presence of Nickel on metal or metalled items.

This method is based upon draft prEN12471 “Screening test for nickel release from alloys an coatings in consumer items that come into direct and prolonged contact with the skin”.

It is intended that this swab method be used as an in-house spot check of incoming componentry at the product/garment manufacturers.

All products, which fail, must be quarantined pending testing to BSEN1811:1998 and for plated/coated items

BSEN12472:1999 at an approved Test House.

See Marks & Spencer Synopsis of Method of Test. C55 Assessment of Nickel and its Compounds in Jewellery and garment components.

APPARAT US These are available in kit form from:

AND TEST ● James H Heal & Co Ltd

SOLUTIONS

UK

Tel: (0) 114 275 5111

Fax: (0) 114 275 6473

● Innovall Pharma

Vertriebs Gmb H & Co Kg Harffstrasse 43

D-40591 Dusseldorf

Germany

Tel: (0) 211 72 00 76

Fax: (0) 211 72 00 770

METHO D 1. Moisten the impregnated cotton-wool tipped stick

with one or two drops of the ammonia solution.

2. Rub the tip for 10 seconds against the specimen to be tested.

3. Assess immediately.

ASSESSMENT View the cotton-wool tip against white background.

Any development of pink indicates nickel release.

INTERPRETATION Development of a pink shade from pale to almost

OF RESULTS red indicates nickel release, which is FAILURE.

The affected stock should be quarantined until the quantitative tests:

BSEN1810:1998

BSEN1811:1998

are carried out and completed.

P1B

P1B - MEASUREMEN OF SPIRALITY OF WEFT KNITTED FABRICS AND GARMENTS..😎😎

PURPOSE To measure spirality; that is when the horizontal alignment of a fabric changes its relationship to the length, causing distortion.😎😎😎😎😎😎

TEST All specimens are prepared as specified in Method of Test

SPECIMENS P1A ‘Wascator Stability Washes’.

IMPORTANT: Knitwear garments must be measured flat in addition to frame measurements. See Method of Test P2 ‘Stability Measurements Using the Marks and Spencer Measuring Frame’.

Garments

In some instances garments have ‘spiralled’ prior to washing. Where this occurs measure s1 and s2 at the bottom of the garment as below before washing.

Calculate the average of s1 and s2 and report this as the spirality before wash.

METHOD The procedure is in addition to Method of Test P1A ‘Wascator Stability Washes’. This measuring procedure is only required where spirality has occurred and MUST BE TAKEN IMMEDIATELY AFTER ANY FLAT MEASUREMENTS HAVE BEEN RECORDED.

Fabrics

Using a metal ruler (see test method PG), measure the distance s1 to the nearest 1mm, from the natural dried fold of the square to the inner edge of the seam as shown in the diagrams.

Measure the distance s2 by gently lifting back the opposite edge (see diagram) and repeating the measuring procedure to determine the distance.

ASSESSMENT i. For specimens which shrink in length.

Determine the average of the two measurements and call this S i.e.

S = s1 + s2

Then use this value for S in the formula Spirality = {(S X L) / 100}+S

Where L = Average length shrinkage (flat measurement expressed as a %), determined according to Method of Test P1A Wascator Stability Washes.

For example:- S1=30mm s2= 33mm L = -7%

Spirality = (31.5 x 7) + 31.5

100

= 33.7mm

ii. For specimens which stretch in length. Determine S, as above.

Then use this value for S in the formula

Spirality = S - (S x L)

100

For example:- s1 = 30mm s2 = 33mm

L = +7% (i.e. stretch)

Spirality = 31.5 - 31.5 x 7

100

= 31.5 - 2.20

= 29.3mm

RESULT Report the spirality to the nearest 1mm.

P144A

P144A - Accelerated Pilling and Shade Change Test to Substantiate “Stay New” Claim on Knitted fabrics

PURPOSE...........

To assess the physical properties of treated knitted fabrics to pilling, handle, stability and appearance under accelerated laundry conditions.

APPARATUS............

1. M&S Colour Assessment Cabinet which conforms to C1 with 45˚ viewing table

2. M&S Photographic standards.

Ref: J : Photographs: Numbers 1 to 5 for Knitted Jersey

Ref: K : Photographs: Numbers 1 to 5 for Knitwear

3. British Standard Grey Scales

For assessing change in colour BSENISO 20105 02:1995

4. ECE (A) - Non Phosphate Reference Detergent without Optical Brightening Agent

5. DigiEye Equipment as method C2A

TEST SPECIMENS............

Do not cut fabric within 10 cm of the selvedge

Note: As sample of original fabric should be retained as original for comparison purposes

Prepare a specimen as Method for P1A Preparation of test specimens- Weft Knitted Fabrics - either a double thickness of tubular fabric or a single piece of fabric folded to give a double thickness.

METHOD OF TEST........

The temperature for washing is as P1AStability wash according to the stability performance standard.

Carry out 5 times P1AStability wash and dries (drying between each wash procedure) according to the stability performance standard.

The prepared specimen must be washed face side out.

Relaxation............

After drying lay the fabric on a mesh tray for a minimum of 4 hours to relax

before assessing and re measuring.

Care must to taken to avoid excessive physical handling and compression of the structure of the fabric prior to assessment.

RESULTS..........

Fabric Appearance Assessment must be carried out first

Place the tested fabric (double thickness) on the 45˚ viewing table

with the wales running vertically.

Place the relevant photographic standards adjacent to the tested

fabric

Assign the grading according to the photographic standard which

is representative of the degree of surface disturbance observed

on the tested fabric.

Repeat the above procedure in two different areas of the fabric.

Note : Half grades can be given (for example 3-4)

Two observers should assess the specimens and agree on the

grading

Calculate the average of the six grades and round to the nearest 0.1

Reporting..........

1. Fabric Appearance Grade: Report the fabric Appearance Grade as defined in the Fabric Appearance section above.

2. Stability: Re-measure the fabric and report percentage extension or shrinkage after the first and fifth wash/dry.

3. Spirality: For Single Jersey Fabrics calculate and report the spirality measurement to the nearest 1mm as method P1B-Measurement of Spirality of Weft knitted Fabrics and Garments- September2003

4. Fabric handle Assess fabric handle after 5th wash/dry in comparison to original retained fabric and report Slight, Moderate or Distinct change in handle

5. Shade change Assess shade change of the fabric after the 5th wash/dry against the original retained fabric using the Grey Scales.

NB: For prints only DigiEye grading is required.

The P1A washing and drying conditions must be stated on the report

Notes.........

1. Due to the visual nature of the assessment, tested specimens should be retained by the supplier for future reference

2. All tested fabrics must be sent to the M&S Department Technologist for final approval and signing off (at Development and Contract Seal only)

3. Do not use makeweights that are stained or contaminated with OBA

P144B

p144B - Accelerated Pilling and Shade Change Test to Substantiate “Stay New” Claim on Knitted Garments

PURPOSE.......

To assess the physical properties of treated knitted garments for handle, stability, appearance and shade change under accelerated laundry conditions.

APPARATUS

1. M&S Colour Assessment Cabinet which conforms to C1 with 45˚ viewing table.

2. M&S Photographic standards.

Ref: J : Photographs: Numbers 1 to 5 for Knitted Jersey

Ref: K : Photographs: Numbers 1 to 5 for Knitwear

3. British Standard Grey Scales For assessing change in colour BSENISO 20105 02:1995.

4. ECE (A) - Non Phosphate Reference Detergent without Optical Brightening Agent.

5. DigiEye Equipment as method C2A.

TEST SPECIMENS....

Two garments in total are required, one for testing and one to be retain as an original for comparison purposes.

Both garments must be taken from the same colour and batch

Prepare one of the garments as Method for P1A Preparation of test specimens- Garments.

METHOD OF TEST.....

The temperature for washing is as P1AStability wash according to the stability performance standard.

Carry out 5 times P1AStability wash and dries (drying between each wash procedure) according to the stability performance standard.

All garments must be washed face side out.

Relaxation:

After drying lay the garment on a mesh tray for a minimum of 4 hours to relax

before assessing and re measuring.

Care must to taken to avoid excessive physical handling and compression of the structure of the fabric prior to assessment.

RESULTS.......

Fabric Appearance assessment must be carried out first

Procedure:

Place the garment on the 45˚ viewing table with the wales running vertically

Place the relevant photographic standards adjacent to the garment.

Assign the grading according to the photographic standard which is representative of the degree of surface disturbance observed on the tested Garment..

Repeat the above procedure in two different areas of the garment.

Note: Half grades can be given (for example 3-4)

Two observers should assess the specimens and agree on the

grading

Calculate the average of the six grades and round to the nearest 0.1

Reporting...........

1. Fabric Appearance Grade: Report the fabric Appearance Grade as defined in the Fabric Appearance section above.

2. Stability: Re-measure the garment and report percentage extension or shrinkage after the first and fifth wash/dry.

3. Spirality: For Single Jersey Fabrics calculate and report the spirality measurement to the nearest 1mm as method P1B-Measurement of Spirality of Weft knitted Fabrics and Garments- September2003

4. Fabric handle Assess fabric handle after 5th wash/dry in comparison to original retained garment and report Slight, Moderate or Distinct change in handle

5. Shade change Assess shade change of garment after the 5th wash/dry against the original retained garment using the grey scales.

NB: For prints only DigiEye grading is required.

6. Seam and Trim Appearance. Compare and assess all seams and trims after 5th wash/dry in comparison to original retained garment and report observations.

The P1A washing and drying conditions must be included on the report.

Notes.......

1. Due to the visual nature of the assessment, tested specimens should be retained by the supplier for future reference

2. All tested fabrics must be sent to the M&S Department Technologist for final approval and signing off (at Development and Contract Seal only)

3. Do not use makeweights that are stained or contaminated with OBA.

ISO TEST METHOD

Color fastness to Water ISO105-E01_2010(E).pdf

ISO_16322-1 2005(E)-Character_PDF_document.pdf

ISO105-B02.pdf

ISO105-B07.pdf

ISO105-C01.pdf

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