The forest enveloped us in a tranquil silence, broken only by the rustling of sal leaves beneath our feet. Amidst this stillness, a white ghost tree caught our attention, with golden rays filtering through its branches as the forest slowly woke up. Our naturalist and guide were busy narrating the story of a recent bear sighting, when the shrill alarm call of a sambar deer broke the silence, a clear indication of a predator nearby, possibly a tiger, bear or leopard.
We quickly moved towards the source of the deer's call, accompanied by the terrifying shrieks of langurs above. It was a thrilling, yet nerve-wracking experience, especially because we were on foot, with only a stick and pepper spray to protect ourselves in the jungles of Satpura National Park in Madhya Pradesh.
Over the years, I have developed a deep love for India's protected national parks and wildlife sanctuaries, especially those in Madhya Pradesh such as Panna, Bandhavgarh, Kanha, Pench, Tadoba, and Jim Corbett. Yet, my love for nature deepened even more during my stay at the eco-conscious Forsyth Lodge in Satpura National Park.
Here are the unique aspects that set Satpura National Park apart:
One memorable morning, as the sun rose like a blazing orange ball over the misty Denwa River, we floated silently on a rustic canoe. The paddles moved quietly, distancing us from the usual hum of jeeps and human chatter. The Denwa River, once untamed and vigorous before being dammed upstream, now meandered peacefully. Snipes and wagtails flitted along its banks, while wild boars grazed, seemingly oblivious to our presence.
Following the alarm calls of sambar deer and langurs on foot was both exhilarating and unnerving. With every step, we edged closer to the dense foliage where the commotion originated. The tension was palpable as we speculated in hushed tones about the potential predator a tiger, leopard, or bear lurking nearby.
Venturing into Satpura's buffer zone on bicycles added another layer of excitement. We traversed blooming mustard fields, navigated dry riverbeds, and cycled along the edge of steep gorges, all without a backup plan if we encountered a big cat. The thrill of exploring the wilderness on two wheels was unmatched, surrounded only by the chirping of birds and occasional sightings of camouflaged eagle owls.
Pachmarhi, the only hill station of Madhya Pradesh is situated in a valley of the Satpura Range in Hoshangabad district, at a height of 1,067 meters above sea level. state of Central India. Widely known as “Satpura ki Rani” (Queen of Satpura), Pachmarhi also boasts of housing the highest point of Madhya Pradesh, Dhoopgarh (at 1,352 meters above sea level). Pachmarhi is a part of the Pachmarhi Biosphere Reserve and has been the location of a cantonment (Pachmarhi Cantonment) since British Raj, soon after its discovery by Captain James Forsyth of the Bengal Lancers.
Pachmarhi has been a part of Satpura Tiger Reserve since the year 2000, and thus is the home of many rare species of flora and fauna. Popular for its breathtaking views and waterfalls, this place is a heaven for bird and butterfly watchers. One must visit the Interpretation Centers at Bison Lodge and Dhoopgarh to gain a thorough appreciation of the wonders that Pachmarhi has to offer.
The name Pachmarhi is believed to be derived from the Hindi words “Panch” (five) and “Marhi” (caves) - the famous Pandav Caves. Legend says that these caves were built by the five Pandava brothers of the Mahabharatha era during their thirteen years of exile. Various other caves around Pachmarhi have many ancient stories carved onto them as rock paintings, some of which are even 10,000 years old!
Going on a jeep safari in Satpura was a thrilling experience, starting with a boat ride in the Denwa river. The forest trails were teeming with life – a sunbathing crocodile, a wild gaur with its newborn baby, and playful giant squirrels among them. Memorable sightings included a wild cat and not one but two sloth bears that casually crossed our path. These encounters made me yearn to return to the untamed beauty of the Satpura forests.
Evenings were magical at Forsyth Lodge, under a canopy of twinkling stars. Lantern-lit paths guided us as we gazed upwards, tracing constellations and sharing stories of the day's sightings over mahua, a local liquor brewed from mahua flowers—a favorite of the sloth bear. The lodge, built sustainably with mud and slate in a traditional architectural style, offered a luxurious yet minimalistic retreat amidst nature. Most ingredients were sourced locally, ensuring delicious vegan meals that celebrated regional flavors.
How to Reach: The nearest airport is in Bhopal, a 3-4 hour drive from Satpura National Park. En route, consider visiting the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Bhimbhetka Rock Shelters.
Where to Stay: Forsyth Lodge in the buffer zone of Satpura Tiger Reserve comes highly recommended for its conservation-focused ethos and immersive wilderness experience.
Best Time to Visit: Avoid the monsoon season (July to September); instead, opt for spring or autumn for pleasant weather and optimal wildlife sightings. Summer months are hot but ideal for wildlife spotting.
Explore Satpura National Park for a truly immersive wildlife experience, where every moment brings you closer to nature's raw beauty and untamed allure.