UGEARS model kits come with everything you need for assembly. All parts are laser pre-cut into a high-quality plywood board for easy removal and assembly. Motion is accomplished using rubber bands, gears and gravity. Detailed color diagrams and step-by-step instructions are provided in 11 languages to guide you through the assembly process. No glue, special expertise, tools or equipment are required. Customer service is available 24/7, with spare parts provided and shipped free of charge.
I noticed a lot of manufacturers are switching to plastic drive gears. They use something like Delrin or nylon which has a low friction factor. Plastic gears also help reduce gear noise, and are cheaper to make than metal gears.
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However a number of manufacturers have had some very severe problems with these types of gears. They wear out, they crack, they split, and they chip a lot faster than metal ones. (I won't name names, but all of us who have been modeling that last 10 years know the mfgs and particular models very well)
I definitely prefer metal over plastic any day. I have two G-scale Bachmann Consolidations with cracked nylon drive gears, which makes them inoperative, and the only replacement offered by Bachmann is to buy a complete axle/gear/wheel set with another nylon gear.
Switching to plastic gears? Heck, when was the last time a plastic manufacturer used metal gears? Other than the worms in Athearn models, they've always been all-plastic since the rubber band days. Atlas has always used all-plastic gears. Stewart, too. BLI, Walthers, P2K, P1K, Kato, etc. They all use plastic and always have. In fact, they have to for driver axles as they almost all use the split axle for electrical pick up. If they used a metal gear, it'd short out.
The problem with brass gears is the noise. Some are so noisy that you can't even add sound to them because you can't hear the sound over the gear noise. If you want sound locos, then you want plastic gears.
My guess is that the problem with the split or cracked gears is due to the fact that the compression fit between the axle and gear is too tight. Having done some manual and CNC machining in my former job, a "proper" compression fit fits into a VERY narrow window of tolerance*.
It depends on the scale. On HO and smaller plastic gears are the norm and I have only had problems with early P1Kand P2K axle gears splitting on HO locomotives. On larger scales stress factors may become an issue. My 1:1 scale automobile and yours too probably has several "plastic" gears internal in the engine.
The problem with common Delrin gears is that the manufacturers don't use a properly aged Delrin, and then the stress and aging will cause it to split. When plastic gears are made right, they can last as long or longer than metal.
I agree, provided gear tooth loads are kept within the capabilities of the material, that plastic gears are quiet and perform well. I'm not sure that the tooth loads or compression fit loads can be kept within plastic's capabilities in scales larger than HO. And I question how long even good plastic gears would last if we returned to the days of single die-cast locomotives pulling 60 car trains in HO down at the club.
The worm tooth has the highest loading in a normal gear train, which is why that is normally made from metal in most gear trains. The matching worm gear or idler gear must be made from a softer material to avoid excessive wear on the worm teeth. Brass worms and brass worm/idler gears have just as many wear problems as plastic worms/plastic worm/idler gears. Steel worms seem to work well with brass gears, and brass worms seem to work well with plastic gears.
Metal gears can be made to perform quietly. The gear teeth have to match each other, and be clean of any flash or irregularities. And gear mesh has to be right. With all metal gears, the noise is an indication those conditions do not exist. The noise is also an indication that excessive wear is/will be taking place.
Improper gear alignment with plastic gears doesn't produce noise the way metal gears do, hence there is little indication that the gears will wear each other faster than if properly matched, mated, and aligned.
The gearbox plays an important role in the alignment and mesh of the gears. To me, the true test of a gearbox/gears is the overall friction level. Remove the gearbox, chuck the level worm shaft into a drill, and run up the RPMs. If the gearbox stays steady at the 10 o'clock position or lower (the lower the better), you are in pretty good shape. If the gearbox rotates, you have excessive friction.
While I was installing a new gearbox on an older brass engine, I noticed that NWSL, the manufacturer of the gearbox, stated that gears of the same material should not mesh with each other. When set up of the new gearing was complete I had a steel worm driving a plastic idler which in turn drove a brass driving axle gear. The gear train I was replacing had teeth that had crescent shaped wear patterns on them. I'm guessing that was from the gear lash being too tight? has anybody else ever seen this wear pattern?
In order for gears to work properly, they have to be aligned on four planes. Vertically, horizontally, in yaw, and in pitch.Not only that, but the geometry of their working surfaces must be compatible, and designed to deal with forces over a range of their working surfaces thereby.
I believe that nylon on nylon should work well with the correct engineering and assembly, and provided the assembly includes a suitable grease. However, just as metal gears and engines need breaking-in, and then an exchange of lubes to remove break-in bits worn off, plastic gears could probably stand a similarly respectful treatment. It would seem that, with the modest engineering and materials in our engines, just running them until they break, or until we remember to service them a year or more later, is not doing them much good.
Lastly, I believe that nylon and delrin gears would stand up well to model usage, even in O gauge, if they were placed properly on wide enough shafts, probably press fit onto starred shafts and not relying on a really tight fit on smooth round ones. If the shafts were increased in diameter by about 50%, and starred, and the gears cut/ground/cast the same way, a press fit would be much less onerous, and would not be likely to cause splitting. It may be that the gears, themselves, would also need to have mor mass and have larger dimensions commensurately, but I don't know. Means redesign of many transmissions/gear towers, but it would be worth it...think of the un-green shipping and wastage of materials from parts that break. Hardly economical. Would any of us pony up another $15 per newer model of a given engine knowing we would not have to send it back because it has the newest proven drive? Wouldn't the distributors prefer not to have to stockpile those parts, and incur the costs of shipping them to customers who are willing to wait for them, to do without the use of their models, and to install the parts themselves?
These amazing 3D Self Assembly models are fun to assemble as well as educational. They can also serve as decorative pieces. Although, the kits come with clear step-by-step instruction, they can also be called puzzles as the challenge is always present. Inspired by steam-punk fantasy, the clear view of all the moving components, including gears and pendulums, creates a unique, unforgettable and fascinating look at everyday (and not so everyday) machinery.
I think that you are seeing a tradeoff by only looking at cases where both tecniques are comparably good. No one makes a calculator by trying random assemblages of transistors and seeing what works. Here the gears level insight is just much easier. When there are multiple approaches, and you rule out the cases where one is obviously much better, you see a trade-off in the remaining cases. Expect there to be some cases where one technique is just worse.
Competitiveness of the two methods comes from hybrid approaches. If evolution can solve a problem, then we can study the evolved solution to come up with a competitive gears-level model. If a gears-level approach can solve a problem, then we can initialize an iterative optimizer with the gears-level solution and let it run (which is what circuit designers do).
A simple example is debugging code: a gears-level approach is to try and understand what the code is doing and why it doesn't do what you want, a black-box approach is to try changing things somewhat randomly. Most programmers I know will agree that the gears-level approach is almost always better, but that they at least sometimes end up doing the black-box approach when tired/frustrated/stuck.
For instance, knowing a few of the most basic games in game theory (Prisoners Dillema, Staghunt, BoS, etc.) is not actually a very good gears-level model of how humans are making decisions in any given situation. However, using it as one black box model (among many that can help you predict the situation) is much more generalizable then trying to figure out the specifics of any given situation - understanding game theory here is a good capital investment in understanding people, even though its' not a gears level model of any specific situation).
I think which one you use depends on your strategy for success - One path to success is specialization, and having a very good gears level model of a single domain. Another path to success is being able to combine many black box models to work cross domain - perhaps the best strategy is a combination of a few gears level models, and many black box models, to be the Pareto Best in the World.
I would characterize game theory, as applied to human interactions, as a gearsy model. It's not a very high-fidelity model - a good analogy would be "spherical cow in a vacuum" or "sled on a perfectly smooth frictionless incline" in physics. And the components in game-theory models - the agents - are themselves black boxes which are really resistant to being broken open. But a model with multiple agents in it is not a single monolithic black box, therefore it's a gears-level model. be457b7860
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