THE SALISH SEA

The Adventuress' Marine Home

Where is the Salish Sea?

*Map Sources at bottom of page
“Interactive Map of the Salish Sea & Surrounding Basin, Stefan Freelan, WWU, 2009”

The first person to create a dedicated map for the Salish Sea as a whole was Stefan Freelan.

Attached here is an interactive map that he created with the help of the Huxley Spatial Institute of Western Washington University's College of the Environment.

Outlined in red is the Salish Sea watershed. In other words, most raindrops that fall within the border should end up in the Salish Sea. Freelan explains in a speaker series about the reason he made such a map: "[There is] no single entity or jurisdiction spans the whole of the Salish Sea. It's fragmented in a lot of ways, because of [the US-Canada] international border." He points to Bert Webber, a marine biologist, who wanted to increase awareness of the area as one estuarine ecosystem as well as make the management and protection of the area as a whole easier. Finally, he adds, it is an acknowledgement to the indigenous peoples of the area in the Salishan language group without being affiliated to specific tribes.

Here are some statistics about the Salish Sea as a whole:

  • A surface area of >17,000 square km (about twice the size of Puerto Rico)

  • A max depth of 660 m (a 220-story house!)

  • > 100 rivers

  • > 400 islands

Sources: Huxley Speaker Series

History

The formation of the Puget Sound as we know it began very long ago, almost 200 million years in the past. This is when the North American plate, the fragment of outer shell that makes up the American continent, began shifting westwards. Along the way, it crashed into multiple volcanic chains, dragging up a bunch of landmass that became the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges.

Along with tectonic movements came glacial carving. In the past 2 million years, multiple ice ages created large glaciers that spread between the mountains. As they advanced, they moved a lot of clay, sand, and gravel southward. They were also very heavy, pushing down on the land, and as they retreated, vast volumes of meltwater eroded deep valleys, fjords, and channels. These helped to allow the seas of Pacific Ocean saltwater to meet the mountain freshwater river systems and create a gorgeously unique estuarine system, the Salish Sea.

Sources: Into the Salish Sea, Vashon Glacier HistoryLink

Pacific Ocean saltwater (left) meets Fraser River freshwater (right)

Photo by Ocean Networks Canada

Did you know?

The Seattle Area was once under over 3,300 feet (or 5 Space Needles) of ice! The place that would be Vancouver (BC) was once under over 8,000 feet of ice!

The Vashon Stade was the last glacial advance to cover the Salish Sea region, occurring around 12,000 years ago. One portion of the Cordilleran ice sheet called the Juan de Fuca lobe spread west towards the Pacific Ocean, filling the Puget Sound and Strait of Georgia area.

The melting glaciers also left a lot of "drumlin hills" around Puget Sound, hills that look sort of like half-buried eggs: steep on one side and shallow on the other, smoothed out by the ice flow.

What is the Salish Sea?

The Coast Salish People's Homeland

"The Coast Salish people are a group of Salish-speaking, ethnically connected indigenous people living in the Pacific Northwest Coast from the mouth of the Columbia River in Oregon to the Bute Inlet in British Columbia." [1]

This is to say, the term "Coast Salish people" is an umbrella term for many individual tribes and groups with changing and overlapping borders and homelands. To help visualize the locations of these various groups, on the left is a map by Native Land. Native Land Digital is a Canadian nonprofit whose mission is "to map Indigenous lands in a way that changes, challenges, and improves the way people see history and the present day".

Feel free to explore and take a look at the areas familiar to you with the interactive and dynamic version of this map at Native Land.

The Coast Salish people have and continue to live, work, and reside in and around the Salish Sea, since the glaciers retreated. The first evidence of their settlement was found along the Fraser River in Mission, BC, and thought to come from 3000 BCE, although further archaeological evidence comes to suggest they may have inhabited the area since 9000 BCE and beyond. They called the region “Sqla-lot-sis”, which means “homeland”.

Although tied together by the Salish languages, there are many dialects and individual languages that differentiate people and tribes. However, storytelling as well as the passing down of tribe history was often done orally, and so language was embedded as a vital part of Salish culture.

The Coast Salish way of life is strongly associated with fishing, as fish were both a source of food and a central part of their ceremonies and legends. Salmon in specific were vital to their lifestyles and religious beliefs, founding the First-Salmon Ceremony and the Legend of the Salmon Woman. These beliefs were passed down generationally, along with their belief in and appreciation for guardian spirits, both human and animal. Some practices they share with other Native American tribes are vision quests, journey ceremonies, and soul recoveries.

Photo by Joe Mabel, "White Rock, BC - Coast Salish housepost and Haida totem pole", 2013.
Photo by Vancouver 125 - The City of Vancouver, "Coast Salish Welcome", 2011.
Photo by Bob Keefer, "Coast Salish House Boards", 2006.
Photo by Mary Harrsch, "Oregon Trail Mural Winter Camp", 2004.

Around 1800CE, the Spanish came to chart the Salish Sea area through the Vancouver Expedition. European travelers and settlers arrived in the Central Salish area (inland America) then spread to the Northwest, bringing smallpox and other diseases along with them that devastated native populations.

Around this time, Catholic missionaries also arrived in the area and brought a great change in religion and lifestyle. The potlatch, a gift-giving and traditional performance ceremony for special occasions, was banned until the mid-20th century. In both the United States and Canada, the government put pressure on Natives to convert to Christianity.

In the 1850s, the natural resources around the Salish Sea were sold to the point where traditional resources became scarce. Native people were then put to work "as loggers, in the mills, and as commercial fishers, while women sell basketry and shellfish."[2]

The Douglas Treaties was signed between the British and Coast Salish people around Victoria and Nanaimo and two Kwakwaka’wakw groups of North Vancouver Island. This quickened the drastic change in White-Native American demographics that would continue into the 20th century.

"As with the arrival of Europeans in other areas of North America, the lives of the Coast Salish people was forever changed, with tribes being split up, extensive land and population losses, traditions being discontinued and many of their ancient artefacts being destroyed."[1]

In the 1960s, native activism rose and called for civil action to uphold native treaty rights. In 1979, the Treaty of Elliott was upheld by the US Supreme Court, restoring fishing rights to federally recognized Puget Sound tribes. Interest in Coast Salish art and history has since seen a revival and has been shared in major museums.

In the present, there are an estimated 56,000 Coast Salish peoples living in the US and Canada. Many tribes continue to exist today and keep their languages, traditions, and practices, as well as developing economic autonomy, especially in the tobacco, gambling, and fishing industries.

Sources: [1] Culture Trip, [2] TheAmericanHistory, [3] Native Land
Photo by Robert Zverina, "Revealing Coast Salish Cultures Journey By Canoe...", 2015
Port of SeattlePhoto by Wonderlane, "Unloading a shipment...", 2006.
Port of VancouverPhoto by Can Pac Swire, "The Port of Vancouver", 2012.

A Network of Commerce

The Salish Sea has been, and continues to be, a hub of activity for people, providing marine life-rich waters for commercial, sport, and aboriginal fishing. Many businesses work in concert with the Sea, such as marine transportation, shellfish farmers, restaurants, and the cement and logging industries.

The Salish Sea encompasses the Port of Vancouver, Canada's largest and most diversified port, as well as the Port of Tacoma and the Port of Seattle, which both rank in the top 10 largest seaports of the US. Many take in transport and cargo ships as well as handling cruise ships, fishing ships, and factory trawlers.

On top of that, both Washington State and British Columbia operate their own ferry and water taxi services to connect people and automobile traffic on the mainland to various islands across the Sea.

Sources: Encyclopedia of Puget Sound, Georgia Strait Alliance

A Web of Waters

Try sailing around the Salish Sea and you'll notice something very interesting... the current is extremely different at different places and times of the day.

This Sea is interesting because large landmasses block the ocean from the sea, creating a bottleneck in a place called the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Think of car traffic going into and out of a large city, or students rushing into and out of a cafeteria.

In the same way, the water in the Salish Sea goes through a flood tide, where ocean water rushes in, and an ebb tide, where water rushes back out into the Pacific. This makes the Juan de Fuca Strait a commonly turbulent area with large waves, and means that smart sailors study their currents before setting sail!

On the right is a chart with colors showing the speed of currents at the surface of the water. Warmer colors demonstrate areas where the current is very fast (you can see how the Juan de Fuca Strait has a lot of red) while cooler colors label areas where the current is commonly slow (the smaller channels further into Puget Sound and Strait of Georgia).

Haibo Niu, Shihan Li et. al, "NEMO model Salish Sea currents at 1 m depth", 2016.
Rivers Labeled.png

Many rivers, lakes, and their corresponding watersheds lead into the Salish Sea. In this way, the Sea's health is impacted by a larger basin of land and variety of water sources.

For the Puget Sound, an average of 1,160 cubic meters of fresh water enters the Sound every second. These major sources are the Skagit and Snohomish rivers, but altogether this only amounts to around 10-20% of the amount entering the Strait of Georgia.

This is because the Fraser River lends the most water to the Salish Sea out of any other river, making up 80% of the Strait of Georgia's freshwater inflow, which can often reach as high as 20,000 cubic meters per second in the spring.


Choose a part of the Salish Sea

to learn more about!

The Rocky Rushway, the

Strait of Juan de Fuca!

The River-Riddled,

Puget Sound!

The Two-Tapered,

Strait of Georgia!