Our local history is intertwined with Etter's apple history by way of Charles Howard Shinn, the Shinn Ranch, and the California Nursery Company.
Hybridizing new apple varieties and selecting them takes a very long time (peaches are quicker). Almost 50 years elapsed from the beginning of Mr. Etter's apple experimentation, to the introduction of six new varieties by the California Nursery Company in 1944 and one more introduction the next year. Then consider that a patent only protects your creation for 17 years. The 1947 catalog has seven varieties, some with patents.
Around 1897, according to one account, at the direction of E.J. Wickson, Charles Howard Shinn provided Albert Etter with 600 varieties of apples. At that time, Charles was living at his family fruit ranch across Alameda Creek. The last portion of the ranch is Shinn Historical Park & Arboretum in Fremont.
Some apples may have come from the UC Experiment Stations where Charles was inspector. [A search in the old ledgers of the California Nursery and of Shinn Ranch is in order for this time frame.] Could some have come from his family's fruit ranch/nursery? Would some have come from the California Nursery's mother orchard with about 100 different apple varieties? [Museum of Local History has a catalog from 1904 or 1905 that also covers the nursery's varieties.] Mr. Etter wrote about his experiment in 1922.
Read more about the role Shinn played from the Fruit Nut Tour given for the CRFG Festival of Fruits in Santa Clara Valley.
This is the first time I have brought myself into believing I should tell the public anything in detail of what is going on here at Ettersburg in the line of apple-breeding. While I don't intend, to tell everything even now, I will tell enough to make it interesting and readable. Few people realize how much of this apple work is really under way. To simply say I have worked into a total of twelve to fifteen thousand varieties pictures nothing definite to the average person. But when I say that supposing those fifteen thousand trees were set out along the highway in a single row, thirty feet between trees, they would form a continuous row almost ninety miles long, it looms up considerably. In other words, it would take the speed limit with an automobile, two and one-half hours to ride by, and every tree a different variety. Of course, not all ever came to fruit, but there is a long list of them that do. And with this year's selection of seed, the grand total another year will be increased by at least fifty per cent.
How the Work Is Kept Within Practical Bounds.
The seed is soaked up in January and then subjected to several sharp frosts. It is then planted and grown in nursery rows. About six to the foot are planted. After two or three year's growth, a scion is taken from each tree that has made anything like a satisfactory growth, and it is grafted into the top of a large tree. Some of these trees grow as much as four hundred varieties. In this stage of their existence they are "infants." At five to seven years from the seed, they reach the same stage of development as boy is when he is fourteen to sixteen years of age, and they begin to bear fruit. Still the fruit is not normal, and will not be until ten to twelve years from the seed. In the early years of production, the fruit is usually more or less woody and tough. Some varieties that at first fruiting are so woody as to be a joke, become very crisp and tender when the tree is matured. I doubt if it hastens fruit by top grafting, but it does make it practical to fruit out a very large number in little space, yet the final proofs are delayed, because these comparatively small limbs must again be grafted into other trees for more extensive trial. On the other hand, the more promising varieties are given the tree by removal of the inferior ones. While the various grafts are developing, careful pruning keeps them in bounds and gives them all a chance to develop, instead of a few of the strong ones taking the whole tree and smothering the others out.
When Did This Work Begin?
It was primarily planned over thirtythree years ago," and actually begun twenty-eight years ago. It is a curious coincidence that I had come to Ettersburg (I brought the name with me, too, because it was not Ettersburg before I settled there), with the premeditated intention to make it a great apple experiment station, and the anniversay of my arrival here to begin operations was afterward made National Apple Day—the 17th of October. Is This Work Scientific? The question has been asked if my work was scientific? Of course it all depends on who is judge in the matter, I suppose. The choice of location was scientific, and my training was also scientific to enable me to carry on my work. The school I entered was the "University of Nature," where with Agassiz's motto, we "Study nature, not books." No degrees are ever given in this great institution of learning, and proficiency is recognized only by results obtained. The mere details of procedure are overshadowed by results that are positively worth while, and can be progressively followed up and increased. That much I do claim, and what is outside this I am not worrying about. Fortunately at the very time I had
arrived at the place where I wished to gather a large collection of almost 600 varieties of apples they had collected from all over America and Europe. Through the interest of Chas. H. Shinn, whom I believe is now with the forestry service at Sacramento, and who at that time was in charge of the Sub-stations of the University, I was enabled to get scions of all these varieties. These were grown and fruited to study apple characters and select material. With a perfect climate chosen, and the best material studied and selected, the foundation was well laid, and all one needs is the training to drive them to success. Those are the three essential links to guarantee success, and if success does not materialize the person in charge is to blame.
Decisive Results from the Beginning.
It is generally recognized that it is difficult to produce a really meritorious new apple, even by extensive work. But here we seem at last to have a method of attack on the problem of apple breeding that seems so successful that one dare not guess what is in store for us.
In looking over the volume known as Bulletin No. 56—Bureau of Plant Industry, "Nomenclature of the Apple," we find only five varieties rated as "best." These five are Esophus Spitzenberg, Mother, Famuse, Fort Massie and Muster.
In judging two lots of my seedlings from samples submitted, Professor Geo. P. Weldon of Ontario, California, found no less than six varieties he would rate as "best." Besides these six, I feel I still have three other varieties of equal merit. Most of these are still likely to improve, as no seedling apple is ever at its best until about twelve years after it comes into existence as a seedling.
The only fair way to judge quality in an apple is by comparing the variety with various standard varieties growing under the same conditions. This is the method by which these new seedlings have been rated.
Unusual Parentage. It is very interesting to quote the parentage of these new aspirants' to honor. They are 2 Wagner, 1 Manx Codling, and one unknown parentage. The other five are seedligs of a little French Crab known as Reinette Ananas. In about 100 Reinette Ananas seedlings, 75 of which have already fruited I have marked no less than 20 varieties with fruit that will rate up among our best varieties. Among these twenty are five that as far as we are able to judge are' worthy of being classed among the very best in existence. I would not at this time care to overrate these varieties, but I know such varieties among standard as are universally considered as among the best, and it has come to this: On the average or individually the seedlings outclass the standard sorts. I also feel safe in saying that it will be strange indeed if the next generation (seedlings grown from these remarkable new seedlings), will not be superior to their parents. There is no mystery to me, or any uncertainty as to where I am drifting. Scientific or
non-scientific, I have the system to deliver the goods, and I am satisfied to see good things come so frequently as they have in my preliminary work. Truly, if I had more time to look after this work, I could keep better records, but as it is, it is more important to the great majority that they get these improved kinds than it is as to where or how they came into being.
Many New Forms Possible.
Nearly twenty years ago I got the notion into my head that all the world had in apples was far from what the material at hand justified one to expect. I felt I couldn't help but get results, and the truth of it is I have succeeded far beyond my expectations, as well as far easier. In talking the matter over years ago with Luther Burbank, he told me I couldn't help but get some wonderful things in apples under such favorable conditions as we have here at Ettersburg. As regards continued progress, I am sure seedlings grown of these seedlings will continue to give more and more highly developed forms. I could go on and describe a dozen of the best of these new apples in a way that would make the reader's mouth water, but the Editor told me to cut this article short —or rather, not make it too long.
Several orchard books like this are in the archives and show which fruit and nut varieties were planted in the orchard. This page shows some of the varieties by A.F. Etter (Albert Etter) that were tested. Bing Hong Chan's name is mentioned for grafting nectarines.
There are three or four orchard books that remain to tell us what was planted here - apples, peaches, nectarines, apricots, chestnuts, and one fig.
Of the many apple varieties were the experimental apples from the famous hybridizer, Albert Etter. About one-third of the trees were from Albert Etter. Etter also bred chestnut and strawberries. One chestnut was from Etter.
This book had Bruce Roeding's name written in the front cover. Etter's apples are marked A.F. Etter and A.E. and A.F.E. Etter's chestnuts were also planted in the orchard. The orchard map might have been created from this book. (TBD)
Bing Hong Chan worked from the 1930s to the 1960s at the nursery (needs confirmation). He did orchard work as well as other work. Bruce's orchard book mentions that Bing Hong did some summer budding of citrus and there are other notations.
Of much interest to historic apple lovers, bakers, and to cider makers, are the apples that were bred by Albert Etter of Humboldt County and were tested in Niles to find apples most suitable for the home orchard.
Robert Mayock, the Irvington winery owner, the gourmet chef who put on the nursery's BBQs, and columnist wrote about the Etter apples in Niles in an insert in the 1945 catalog. Check it out for great somewhat retro recipes. Think jello molds and those candied crabapples that your grandmother made. [Those were quite good!]
Almost 50 years later and 15,000 new apple varieties later, in 1944 six of Etter's varieties were introduced to the home orchard market by the California Nursery Company. A seventh was introduced a couple of years later. The varieties were patented by Etter and Etter signed over his rights to George Roeding, Jr. The 'Pink Pearl' patent was filed in March of 1947. See wikipedia to see the other patents.
What's so special about the Etter varieties? Their exceptional taste and the introduction of several red-fleshed varieties.
1944 catalog introduced six varieties
Etter patented six (and later seven) of Etter's apples. Etter assigned the rights to Roeding.
The Roeding archives have a short movie of a trip to Ettersburg with a frisky calf and Etter up on a platform in an apple tree with multiple grafts. There are many color photos of the orchard, pies made with Etter apples, and apples photos, back in 1930-1940s time frame.
Three orchard books from the 1930's-1940's is in the Roeding collection name the Etter varieties that were tried out for eventual sale by the California Nursery.
The 1944 catalog featured Etter on the cover. The 1945 catalog includes recipes by local winemaker and celebrity chef, Robert Stoney Mayock who was chef for many nursery barbecue events. Some of these varieties were sold all the way to the last catalog in 1970. Niles neighbors might be growing Etter trees and not know it. Some may even be growing some of the other 60 varieties.
The 1946 catalog has seven varieties, still "patent pending"
There are none in the park. (Unless that one last struggling apple tree is an Etter variety). However, Etter apples were sold from 1944 to 1970. Someone in the neighborhoods might still have one. And perhaps someone has one of the experimental Etter apples that were never sold. They were sold in the Spanish language catalog as well as the English version. So there may be Etter apples in Mexico!
Today some of these apple varieties are still available from
scion exchanges with the local CRFG organizations (the Golden Gate chapter and the Santa Clara Valley chapter).
Some varieties are available from Greenmantle Nursery. The owner, Ram Fishman, either called or visited Bruce Roeding some while back (letters in archives). Ram Fishman died in early 2021[?]. Ram had trademarked many of Etter's apples. Are they still trademarked? Check here. Here is the one for Grenadine that is "Dead" and check any apple here.
Dave Wilson sells the Pink Pearl.
Trees of Antiquity also sells some Etter variety trees.
You can often purchase Etter Apples from orchards. Good Eggs has in the past years (before 2025) sold Pink Pearl, Wickson, and other Etter apples (some red-fleshed). Epicenter Avocado Trees & Fruit may sell some at Farmer's Markets.
Ram Fishman trademarked the Etter apples that he obtained from Etter's orchard and perhaps from the California Nursery.
This website explains patents and trademarks: https://www.goodfruit.com/patents-and-trademarks/
If you’ve trademarked something, others can sell the same fruit under another name (if I read it correctly).
And the trademark holder has to make sure that no one uses the name.
“Trademarks allow those involved with a patented product to develop a brand for a new variety and exclude others using the trademarked name. For example, Pink Lady is the trademarked name for Cripps Pink cultivar. Only those growers and shippers participating in the Pink Lady America program can use the Pink Lady name and flowing heart logo."
To search for a trademark, use the TESS Trademark Electronic Search Systems website.
Try Grenadine and you will see one of Ram and Marissa Fishman's "Dead" trademarks.
The 'Pink Pearl' blossoms on a home orchard tree that was purchased at Regan Nursery in Fremont.
2022's field trip to the Roeding orchard to "reintroduce" the 'Pink Pearl' to where it was tested and selected. See Facebook for the California Nursery Garden Club for more photos.
Alice Waters featured the red-fleshed Pink Pearl apple in her apple galette in 2002 (no photo!). The full recipe was featured in a blog 'PearlPosts.'
The California Nursery sold the 'Pink Pearl' from 1944 to 1970. So someone was growing 'Pink Pearl' thirty years after the nursery stopped supplying trees. Who was supplying Alice Waters with Pink Pearl?
We know Ram Fishman was involved. Who else?
Tom Hart of Humboldt Cider has been working in the Etter orchard in Ettersburg. Some of their cider is made from Etter's varieties. There are many un-named Etter varieties. See Tom's presentation on Albert Etter. There is even an Albert Etter Day, the date which seems to move around. Tom wrote the leading article in Eden Winter 2021.
The following article is about the California Nursery's archives which provided many of the color photos and other interesting Etter items for his articel.
The Wickson crab is absolutely delicious for one thing. But how did the word get out? The California Nursery went out of business in 1970. Who sold the the varieties after that?
From 1970 to today is 50 years!
If you search Instagram for #wicksoncrab #albertetter #etterapples, you will find many cider makers across the US who are using Etter varieties. When did Etter become popular?
Niedzwetzky's apple at Filoli
The Fruit Nut Tour was created for the Festival of Fruits in 2018 and is available upon request. Among other things
Genetics, hybridization, sports, the reason for grafting
Fruit exploration - where apples came from and how bears selected for the biggest and sweetest apples.
Cider making - as a early preserved food
Pink-fleshed apples - the Surprise apple and its ancestor, the intensely red Niedzwetzky's apple (Malus niedzwetzkyana
Relationship with Luther Burbank. Albert Etter is not the "Luther Burbank of Humboldt County." He is Albert Etter of Humboldt County!
National Apple day and reasons for having a National Apple Day.
Albert Etter Day is celebrated in Humboldt County and on Salt Spring Island.
References:
National Park Service's "Fruitful Legacy"
Kym Kemp's THE HORTICULTURAL GENIUS OF HUMBOLDT COUNTY "Through the courtesy of the Agricultural Experimental stations connected with the University of California. Albert F. Etter has now growing in the Ettersburg nurseries over 450 varieties of apples and next season these will be increased by several hundred additional varieties. This collection will embrace not only all the standard varieties in cultivation but many varieties of local fame from all over the United States and also a very large number from foreign countries all over the world." Humboldt Times August 15, 1900