It started with a design in mind. Our best mate was Tinker-cad. A community based 3D modelling online software. Designing a model was an essential step, as it helped every team member visualise the final structure.
Tinkering is fun :)
The next step was to wander around the market to see if the required components were available or not. It was lucky of us that most of the necessary parts as the motors, wheels, electronics, metal sheets, iron bars were readily available. However, few components were bought from online shopping sites.
An important step before beginning any process is to take correct measurements. You may face the consequences thereafter. We started with a wooden board as the base of the robot, with holes cut through for mounting the wheels. Images shows the wheels and the motor (used for the weapon) kept on the board to take correct measurements. Another image shows the iron rod cut in pieces and kept on the wooden board, which would make the chassis of the robot.
The iron bars were welded to form the chassis of the robot.
Iron bars were welded in vertical position to mount the cover, motors, battery and other components.
Our plan was to power the rear wheels, as seen in a conventional car.
Two wheels connected to the motors.
Axle is inserted in the other two wheels.
Motors are connected to the wooden board by four C- clamps. The wooden board is firmly attached to the chassis by nuts and bolts.
As it is said, " A master has failed more times than a beginner has even tried".
The design had a flaw. We forgot to consider the thickness of the wooden base. So now the ground clearance was very less. This posed a problem.
The robots were too slow, so the first comment was, " Make it a four wheel drive". This may have helped as it would distribute the weight on four independent motors, increasing the speed.
We decided to add two motors for the front wheels and mount the motors under the chassis, so the thickness of the wooden block will not be considered.
FUN TIME................................ :) :)
As we did not had an UTM machine, so the best DIY alternative was to place weight on the chassis to check for weak welding and structural defects.
So the chassis was placed upside down, which now looked like a chair. We took turns to stand on the chassis to check for strength.
HAHA .........
The new design had the wooden board removed and all the four motors mounted on the chassis itself by C- clamps.
Meanwhile we also had to design the electronics as the robot would be wireless.
You may see the
Relay board
Arduino UNO
Cooling fan
Bluetooth module
The new design was good, but not as good as we wanted. As you may see in the video, it is not at par with other robots.
This was the testing phase so we connected a 5 mt wire to control the movement.
Our team at work in the electronics lab.
It was a do or die moment for us after spending such a huge amount of time and money.
The competition was near.
We decided to give it a try and bought two heavy torque motors for 71 dollars each. Again the power was given to the rear wheels. We also took benefit of the fact that the new motors and the previously used motors had the same rpm.
The high torque motors at the rear and the previously used motors (with a little less torque but same rpm) at the front. Meanwhile we had also started work on the cover of the robot.
The cover was made of 3mm mild steel. Stainless steel nut bolts and hinges were used to fasten all the sides. Front part will be a slope which could upturn any other robot. Small metal pieces were cut out, to provide air flow, for the electronics which consumed large amounts of power. This also helped to reduce the weight, open the nuts- bolts with ease, and separate the cover so it can be carried easily.
The final robot.