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I use real genuine leather of multiple kinds! Primarily vegetable tanned cattle hide for its thickness, strength, and high adaptability. I also commonly use chrome tans and suedes depending on the project. The leather is from the hides of different animals based on its purpose in any given object; including steer, deer, goat, sheep, and others. Furs can include anything from fox tails, rabbit hides, deer hides, sheep wool, and more! All genuine as well.

I do not work with vegan leathers. Many of my techniques and processes are rooted in antiquity as much as possible. As such, vegan leather does not behave like natural leather in the crafting processes and requires quite a bit more work. Vegan leather is also not as "good" for the environment one would be led to believe either, unlike the natural recycling processes humans have used since the dawn of time for real hides.

If you have an unusual allergy to a particular hide or fur, I completely understand. I will segregate your piece during creation from the others and use only leathers and furs that will not irritate you. Please just let me know!

All of my leather and furs are ethically and responsibly sourced from the food industry and from my local tannery that specializes in hides from legal game hunters, cattle farmers, shepherds, and the unfortunate reality of roadkill.

All kinds! Though I mainly focus on the things you would see at a Renn Faire or LARP event, such as armor, belts, sheaths, jerkins, pouches, cuffs, potion cases, collars, etc.. While my personal style is closer to a historical-fantasy-viking-ish style, I am happy to work with and emulate many different styles. Want something more Elven or Dwarven for a LARP event? Sure! Want something like the Rogue Guild armor from Old Rolled-Paper 5? Sure, lets talk!

Once a project is completed, I care for the piece with leather balm with atom wax. This helps keep the leather conditioned and gives a minor protective layer. This however is a very natural care and does not seal the leather against water or damage.

Basic care moving forward would be to give a similar treatment every six to twelve months. More depending on how often the piece is used. If the piece is going to be stored in very dry conditions for an extended time, a conditioner or oil, such as mink, neatsfoot, or various seed oils may be used to help ready it for storage. 

You want to avoid excessive moisture and wetness. If you believe you are going to be using the piece in the rain for example, using a wax will help protect it. Beeswax is most common but you can also find oils with wax mixed in.

If your leather gets dirty, like with dirt or stains, you can use a leather cleaner like saddle soap. Follow the individual instructions on the product as there are many products and many ways of applying them. Use in small amounts as they tend to dry out the leather heavily, and immediately follow up with a conditioner.

NOW! The most important part of all of this is: Less is More. Leather is a naturally tough and resilient material; over conditioning, waxing, and cleaning, can lead to damage.

ALSO! Always test a product on a hidden or less important spot first, for every piece. There could always be a slight difference in the tanning chemicals, the dye, etc., that could cause two identical pieces to have different effect. Like one taking a slight stain when the other didn't.

While a make pieces for shows, I try to go for a one-size-fits-all approach. Any custom piece of course will be sized to specification.

I like to measure in-person as much as possible, and I am more the happy to do that at a show. If this can't be arranged, we can discuss the measurements needed. 

The easiest way to take measurements yourself is to have a fabric or flexible measuring tape. If you don't have one, a piece of string or yarn and a ruler will suffice. Just remember to not pull the string tight or taught as it can skew the measurements. Always err on the larger side. For example; if your measurement is 17cm, round up to 18. Or if you are sitting at 5¾ inches, just round up to 6". Leather can have substantial thickness, and can affect measurements slightly. Also, this allows more room for padding if desired.

The first question is a bit more complicated. It all depends on the scope of the project. Here is how I handle projects:

• Once you send in an inquiry, we will begin discussing the scope of the project. I work mainly weekdays based on the workload, so that is when the most of my communication will take place.

• Once we have settled on the project with descriptions, sketches, etc., I will give you a price quote.

• If the price is right, I will ask for half down. This does several things. One, it pays for a large portion of the materials to get the project started, and saves your position in the order of projects done.

• I do each project one at a time, in the order that I have received the down payment, to give each one the time and respect it needs. I will not rush your project or anyone else's for dates or shows, so please plan accordingly. Each and every project deserves my best, and intend to do just that.

• The only exception I will make is if I am in the throws of a very large project, lets say, full chest armor with embossing. I will take a day out of the week to work on a small project, like a pouch or belt. But let this be a happy surprise for the pouch owner. Please do not ask for such treatment as it all entirely depends on the projects and the steps that need taken individually.

• Once I receive your payments I will do my best to give you an idea of how many projects are ahead of you and when I expect to start yours. Once I do begin your project, you will be notified and I will give you an estimated date of completion based on the scope and difficulty of the project.

• I will stay in constant communication with you over the course of the project in case I need to clarify something or inform you of any delays or complications.

• Once your project is complete, I will request the latter half of payment. Once received, we can figure out how to get the project to you. If this means meeting up locally, stopping by at my booth at a show, or shipping it to you, we can discuss then. If shipped, in many cases, I will ask you to pay for shipping. I will however do my best to send your piece in the most protected way possible, and if I feel I need to purchase additional protection beyond what we discussed, I will pay for that myself.