Raising a softshell turtle (family Trionychidae)—such as the spiny softshell (Apalone spinifera) or smooth softshell (Apalone mutica)—is a fascinating but demanding endeavor. These highly aquatic, fast-swimming turtles have unique anatomical and behavioral traits that require specialized care. They are not recommended for beginners, but with the right setup, they can thrive in captivity for 20–50+ years.
Appearance: Leathery, flexible shell (no hard scutes), long neck, snorkel-like snout
Size:
Males: 5–10 inches
Females: 8–18+ inches (some species grow very large!)
Temperament: Solitary, fast, and can be aggressive—may bite if handled
Lifespan: 20–50+ years
Habitat in wild: Sandy-bottomed rivers, lakes, and ponds with strong water flow and minimal vegetation
⚠️ Important: Softshells grow much larger than most pet turtles—plan for their adult size from day one.
Tank Size (Indoor)
Hatchlings: Minimum 40-gallon tank (long style)
Adults:
Males: 125+ gallons
Females: 180–300+ gallons or custom pond/tub
Water depth: At least 1.5–2 times the turtle’s carapace length (they need room to swim and dive)
🌊 Outdoor ponds are ideal for adults in warm climates (USDA zones 7–10), but must be deep, sandy-bottomed, and escape-proof.
Substrate – CRITICAL
Use fine, soft sand only (e.g., pool filter sand or silica-free play sand)
Depth: 2–4 inches
Why? Softshells bury themselves for camouflage and ambush hunting. Gravel or bare bottoms can cause shell abrasions or stress.
Water Quality
Filtration: Heavy-duty canister filter or sump system (rated for 3–5x tank volume)—softshells are extremely messy
Water changes: 30–50% weekly
Water flow: Moderate current mimics natural river habitat (use powerheads if needed)
Dechlorinate all water
Temperature
Water: 75–80°F (24–27°C)
Basking area: 85–90°F (29–32°C)
Use a fully guarded submersible heater (softshells can bite exposed elements)
Lighting
UVB lighting is essential—despite spending most time underwater
Use a 5.0 or 6% linear UVB tube (e.g., ZooMed ReptiSun, Arcadia)
Replace every 6–12 months
Basking area: Must be dry, stable, and fully exposed to UVB—even if rarely used
🐢 Note: Softshells do bask, often partially submerged or on muddy banks—provide a smooth, flat basking platform (e.g., slate rock or commercial dock).
Softshells are strict carnivores with high protein needs.
Diet
Live/frozen foods:
Earthworms, nightcrawlers, crickets, grasshoppers
Small fish (guppies, minnows—avoid goldfish)
Shrimp, krill, bloodworms, silversides
Commercial food: High-protein sinking pellets (e.g., Mazuri Softshell Turtle Diet)
Avoid: Processed meats, bread, or plant matter (they cannot digest it well)
Feeding Tips
Feed in water—they hunt by ambush and suction
Use feeding tongs to avoid accidental bites
Juveniles: Daily
Adults: Every other day
Remove uneaten food promptly
Supplements
Calcium (without D3 if using UVB): 2–3 times/week
Multivitamin: Once weekly
Highly sensitive: Poor water quality or stress can lead to shell lesions or illness
Do not handle—they are nervous, fast, and have long necks that can reach back to bite
Solitary animals: House alone—cannibalism and aggression are common in groups
Shell rot: From abrasions or dirty water
Fungal infections: Appear as white patches on skin or shell
Respiratory infections: Caused by cold temps or poor air quality
Vitamin deficiencies: From improper diet or lack of UVB
Always consult a reptile/exotic veterinarian at first sign of illness
Many states restrict or prohibit softshell turtle ownership
Never take from the wild—wild populations are declining
Adopt or buy captive-bred from reputable sources only
Raising a softshell turtle is a serious, long-term commitment—but for experienced keepers, they are captivating, unique reptiles with prehistoric charm. Plan big, filter heavily, and prioritize sand, space, and protein.
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