2023 Karoos and mountains

Day 1: Friday 15 Sept

Cape Town – Montagu 195 km, 2h 28min

Our first meeting is at 12h30 for lunch at Montague’s iconic Art Deco hotel. The afternoon is free. Check in from 14h00. Dinner is at 19h00 and we stay overnight.   https://www.montagucountryhotel.co.za

Here’s from their list of things to do in Montagu on our free afternoon:

• Latest art exhibition at KWV Gallery in Long Steet (Donations welcome).

• Montague Museum and Joubert House (R15 per adult).

• Montague Nature Garden (Donation in honesty box).

• Local galleries: Hick Gallery (9 Joubert Street); Ibis Gallery (16 Bath Street); Kupenda Gallery (Kohler Street).

• Penny Farthing Antiques (corner Long and Rose St.).

• For a lovely view of Montague and the Langeberg Mountains, drive up Kohler Street (North)  – continue to top and enjoy views from Kanonkop.

• Avalon Springs for a hot dip.

• Die Kloof Padstal for dried fruits.

Passing Paarl and its granite suite of the Paarl Rock we go over or through the Du Toitskloof Mountains and on the other side alongside the Molenaars River. The Worcester Valley was formed when Gondwana pulled apart and the valley dropped down some three kilometres.

The Du Toitskloof Pass just beyond Paarl, was named after Francois du Toit, a Huguenot pioneer in the 17th-century, who settled in the foothills. Initially an animal track, the 48 km pass was opened in 1949. The Huguenot Tunnel, with its impressive viaduct on the Paarl side, opened in 1988, is 3.9 km in length and shortens the road by 11 km. Since we’re not on a race to get anywhere soonest, the route over the old pass is recommended for its spectacular views.

Goreeshoogte Pass on the approach to Robertson, is named after the original farm dating back to the 1700s.

Robertson is situated in the valley of wine and roses. It was established in 1853 and named after DR William Robertson, a Scottish Dutch Reformed minister. Its wagon building industry collapsed after the Anglo-Boer war when the railways took over bulk transport. Robertson was also famous for its ostrich farming, which collapsed after WW1. Agriculture remains the mainstay with wine, fruit and racehorse stud farming. Its provincial heritage sites add to its tourist attractions.

Malherbeshoogte Pass, just beyond Robertson, could be missed as a pass. The Sheilam Catus Farm is off it on the left.

Ashton situated at the foot of the Langeberg Mountains is 10 km from Montagu. Named after the first stationmaster, it was established in 1897. The economic mainstay of Ashton is the Langeberg and Ashton canning factory that produces Koo products. It is owned by Tiger Brands, who in 2022 announced that it would be closing the factory due to increasing costs, which would be disastrous for its workers – there are 250 fulltime workers and some 4300 seasonal workers. Farms and the surrounding area would also suffer. Negotiations have led to a postponement of a closure. The Ashton Arch Bridge completed in 2021 is South Africa’s first constructed using the transverse launching method. Its building received international recognition.

The 6.5 km Cogmanskloof Pass is named after the Cogmans, who were a Khoikhoi chiefdom. It is a poort that connects Ashton with Montagu and follows the course of the Kingna River through the Langeberg Mountains. Initially wagons had to struggle along and in the river until Thomas Bain designed a new pass that was completed in 1877, which included the tunnel under Kalkoenkranz.

Montagu, founded on the farm Uitvlight in 1851, was first named Cogmans Kloof and later named after the secretary of the Cape Colony, John Montagu. Situated in the Western Little Karoo at the confluence of the Keisie and Kingna rivers, it is an agricultural centre famous for its fruit. It is also known for its hot springs and one of the most developed sport climbing areas in the Western Cape.

Day 2: Saturday 16 Sept

Montagu – Sutherland, Klipkraal Guest Farm 272 km, 3h 5 min

08h00 Breakfast. We drive to Matjiesfontein for a light lunch at 12h00 at the Lord Milner Hotel. 153 km, 1h 43 min. If you are early visit

the museum or relax in the pub...

After lunch we take the R354 to Sutherland and Klipkraal. 119 km, 1h 22 min

We drive 26.8 km through the Keisie valley enclosed by the Langeberg Mountain range and exit the valley via the Burger’s Pass (1887). It was originally Koo Pass but renamed after Mr Burger, a local town councillor who influenced the upgrade of the road. Stop for the view at the Keisie Valley viewsite. After 21.3 km we go over the Rooihoogtepas. Both passes were designed by Thomas Bain.

On the N1 and 11.6 km from Matjiesfontein, there are historic graves including those of Major-general Andrew Wauchope who died 11 December 1899 at the Battle of Magersfontein (just south of Kimberley) in the Anglo-Boer War, the English cricketer George Lohmann, and James Logan. On the right side of the road look out for an obelisk at the foot of a small koppie. The entrance gate is sometimes open.

Matjiesfontein owes its existence to the railway line connecting Cape Town to Kimberley’s diamond fields. The station was called Matjiesfontein after the sedge used by the original inhabitants to make mats (matjies) for the construction of their huts. James Logan, “The Laird of Matjiesfontein”, a Scotsman, bought the land in 1884 and opened a refreshment station for the trains. He secured the catering contract for the railways and the discovery of corrupt deals led to the fall of Rhodes’ government in 1893. Logan was also considered as one of the founders of South African cricket.

The Milner Hotel was built by Logan in 1899 and was used as a military hospital for British forces during the Anglo-Boer War and some 10 000 British troops camped there at the time.

In testament, the entire village of Matjiesfontein was preserved as a National Heritage Site in 1975 under the direction of revered hotelier, David Rawdon.

The Verlatenkloof Pass (1877 designed by Thomas Bain)) up the Roggeveld Mountains that are part of the Great Escarpment, is situated 30 km south of Sutherland, is 14.4 km in length and a gain of 668 meters. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GE0x54BVBb8 This is followed by the smaller Rooikloof pass (named after the farm). The geology of the Roggeveld is distinct from the Cape Fold Mountains and is composed of horizontal sediments of Beaufort Group sandstones and mudstones of the Karoo Supergroup. The high elevations of the Roggeveld Plateau, which is part of the Central Plateau, are amongst the coldest places in South Africa.

We stay at the Klipkraal Guest Farm on the road to the South African Astronomical Observatory. Directions: Drive down Piet Retief Street, the main road in Sutherland, turn right into Sarel Cilliers Street, continue past the petrol station on left and after about 6 km Klipkraal’s remote entrance gate is on the left.

Day 3: Sunday 17 Sept

Sutherland 

On the evening of arrival, we have a lamb spit braai 19h00. Meet 18h45 for talk by Tony.

07h30 Breakfast then go into town:

09h00 Planetarium visit (corner Piet Retief and Sarel Cilliers Streets),

10h30 Guided historical tour with Amanda du Preez - 1½-2 hours (28 Northumberland Street),

12h30 Lunch at The Blue Moon restaurant (34 Piet Retief Street)

14h00 An easy walk about one km out of town with plant identification with Rita Wagener.

19h00 Traditional braai at the farm. Meet 18h45 for talk by Danie.

Unfortunately, there are no tours of SALT (South African Large Telescope) on Sundays, but their website provides excellent information concerning the remarkable astronomical facilities and a virtual tour of SALT and other telescopes. www.salt.ac.za

YouTube presentations by Willie Koorts also provide an historical and pictorial tour of the Sutherland Observatory. Willie is a legendary technical wizard who was responsible for many major installations and updating at the observatory over many years.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw8kfz52lo4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwFwm3uAYzE

Sutherland is situated in the Roggeveld Plateau in the Karoo. It was founded in 1855 as a church and market town and was named after Reverend Henry Sutherland, the towns first minister. The Dutch Reformed Church was built in 1899. During the Anglo-Boer War it was used as a fort by British soldiers. Sheep farming and tourism are its major economic activities. Sutherland’s arid climate and remote location 1450 metres above sea level makes its night skies among the world’s clearest and darkest. The Southern African Large Telescope (SALT) is the largest single optical telescope in the southern hemisphere. Sutherland is the coldest town in South Africa. Sutherland

Day 4: Monday 18 Sept

Sutherland – Papkuilsfontein

07h00 Breakfast. Packets will be provided for road lunch. Bring own water/fruit juice/coffee flask.

Standard route: Via Calvinia 241 km, 3h 15min. The Oupoort is a 6.7 long gravel poort between Sutherland and Middelpos.

Route for 4X4s only: Via the Ouberg Pass 255 km, 3h 50 min. The Ouberg Pass (1968) down the Roggeveld Mountains is 40 km from Sutherland. It is steep (steepest 1:6) with many bends, extreme and unguarded drop-offs, and an altitude drop of 820 metres over 10.4 km.

Day 5: Tuesday 19 Sept: Papkuilsfontein

https://papkuilsfontein.com

The Papkuilsfontein accommodation is mostly far (9 km) from the main farmhouse and the gravel roads can be rough. We have all the meals at the farmhouse. To reduce the amount of travel, prepare to spend the day at the farmhouse and return after dinner. Because of the size of our group there will be two guided tours, by Oom Willem van Wyk in the morning and afternoon respectively. Those not going on a tour can do a walk in the veld and hopefully see flowers – or chill out with something to read in their dining area.

Breakfasts 08h00; lunch on the hoof; dinners 19h00. Meet 15 minutes before dinners for talks (Duncan and JP).

Day 6: Wednesday 20 Sept

Papkuilsfontein – Travellers Rest 82 km, 1h 12min

12h00 Lunch at Travellers Rest.

The Botterkloof Pass (1877 – Thomas Bain) is probably named after the Botterbome that grow in the kloof. It is 11.3 km in length and descends a total of 345m. Near the summit there are vertical, unguarded drop-offs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEaVKe_70xY

Klipfonteinrant Pass is a short gravel pass close to the Biedouw Valley/Wuppertal turn-off. The views for the summit are worth stopping for

After lunch there are two options to Mount Ceder. Both offer wonderful scenery:

Standard route: Travellers Rest – Mount Ceder 134 km, 2 h 16 min. Via the Pakhuis Pass – length 26.4 km and altitude gain of 824m. - Thomas Bain 1877. From Clanwilliam head south on the N7 and after about 25 km turn L on the road to Algeria and through the Cederberg via Algeria. First go up the 15.7 km Nieuwoudt’s Pass and beyond Algeria the 4.7 km Uitkyk Pass (also known as Cederberg Pass). At Matjiesrivier turn south.

Clanwilliam, situated on the bank of the Olifants River, was named after The 1st Earl of Clanwilliam, the father-in-law of John Cradock who was the Governor of the Cape Colony (1811 – 1814).

Route for 4X4s only: Travellers Rest – Mount Ceder 89.4 km, 1h 56min. Retrace steps to the Biedouw Valley turnoff and descend to the valley on Hoek-se Berg Pass. At the southern end of the valley the route is up Kraaiberg Pass and descends the steep Kouberg Pass to Wupperthal. Proceed through Wupperthal and go up the steep and rocky Eselbank Pass.

Wupperthal was founded in 1830 by two Germans of the Rhenish Missionary Society, Theobald von Wurmb and Gottlieb Leipoldt, grandfather of C Louis Leipoldt. It became part of the Moravian Church in 1965. Several smaller settlements such as Eselbank were satellite missions. In 2018 a fire destroyed most of the village, which is in the process of reconstruction.

The two routes meet at Matjiesrivier. Before Mount Ceder we descend the Grootrivierhoogte Pass, which is as steep as 1:5 in parts!

Day 7: Thursday 21 Sept

Mount Ceder www.mountceder.co.za

There are two self-guided hikes – Rockpool 1½ hrs; Viewpoint 3 hrs along old jeep track with stunning views; opportunities to paddle and see the birds, and olive tasting.

Day 8: Friday 22 Sept

Mount Ceder – Cape Town

Routes home are a personal choice, each offering lovely scenery and interesting places for a tea stop:

Bains Kloof Pass and Wellington – shorter but takes longer 230 km, 3h 24min

Bains Kloof Pass, opened in 1854 and now a national monument, is the magnum opus of Andrew Geddes Bain. It is 18 km in length and reaches an elevation of 594m.

Consider stopping for tea at Toeka Stoor, a three-minute detour from Windmeul Winery. It is a quirky restaurant with much to see.

Via Tulbagh and Riebeek Kasteel 254 km, 3h 20min

This route includes the Nieuwekloof Pass (original pass built in 1860 by Thomas Bain) and the Bothmaskloof Pass dating back to 1661. A good tea stop is Eight Feet Village on the pass beyond Riebeek Kasteel. It is thus named because the farmer had four sons, one being Pieter-Steff du Toit, one of our famous rugby Springboks.

Via Du Toitskloof 244 km, 3h 15min

Suggest drive via the Slanghoek Valley, cross the N1 and turn right before Rawsonville and stop at Oumeul Bakery at Du Toitskloof Winery for tea. Also, an opportunity to stock up on good quality wines at good prices.

From Mount Ceder proceed up the 11.8 km long Blinkberg Pass that has two false summits, which have short, tarred sections to cope with the steep gradients, and some nasty corners. Emerging into the Koue Bokkeveld the mountains on the right are the Skurweberge and on the left Swartruggens. The Gydo Pass (Gydoberg on the left) descends into the Ceres valley.

Prince Alfred Hamlet is named after Queen Victoria’s son, who visited the Cape Colony.

Ceres, situated in the Warmbokkeveld, is the administrative capital of the Witzenberg municipality that includes Wolseley, Tulbagh, Op-die-Berg, and Prince Alfred Hamlet. It is named after the Roman goddess of agriculture, Ceres. The route through the Mitchell’s Pass was the old route north between Cape Town and Johannesburg. Ceres and Prince Alfred Hamlet suffered severe damage in the great earthquake of 1969.

Michell’s Pass (1848) was named after Charles Michell who planned the original route through the Skurweberg and Witzenberg Mountains from Wolseley and Tulbagh. He became the Surveyor-General of the Colony and built several Cape passes and bridges and influenced road construction. The road pass (the rail also goes through the pass) was constructed by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1848.

.Then home with big bags of memories!

Geology

The Cape Fold Mountains are parallel ranges that run for 850 km from Clanwilliam to Gqeberha. The Cape Supergroup rocks were laid down as sediments in a rift valley in southern Gondwana starting about 510 million years ago and ending about 350 million years ago. Closure of this valley by the Falklands Plateau moving into Africa caused the raising and folding of the mountains. The Cape Supergroup comprises several differing layers of which we are most familiar with the Table Mountain Sandstone. Younger deposits (400 m years) are usually more shale-like and are seen in the valleys and inland. The Bokkeveld group has many fossils such as trilobites.

The Cape Fold Mountains include the following named ranges:

Olifants River Mountains, Cederberg and Skurweberge – run parallel to the northwest.

Hottentots Holland, Boland and Hex River Mountains – in the middle.

Riviersonderend Mountains on the south and Langerberg on the north of the Breede River Valley run towards the east.

Running eastwards, the Langeberg and Outeniqua ranges on the south and the Swartberge to the north enclose the Little Karoo.

The Karoo Supergroup covers two thirds of South Africa. It was laid down in the Karoo Sea which formed when the Falklands Plateau moved into Africa and raised huge mountains, which then eroded into this inland sea. Its layers include glacial (Dwyka tillite), then the Ecca group that has coal and oil/gas deposits, followed by the Beaufort group that is famous for its reptilian and amphibian fossils.

Hot lava also welled up through and along fissures and spread over the surface, rapidly cooling and forming the typical dark rocks (dolerite) on top of karoo koppies.

The Permian mass extinction 250 million years ago extinguished >90% of all species at that time.

JPvN