Sorry if I sound ignorant but I print my own photos on an Epson printer which does up to A3+. What shape would I get with 16:9 as I already have to crop a bit when I take photos with the 4:3 and my 20D. Thanks for the help is someone knows.

fredyr

If you have an Epson A4 printer, then there is a special Epson Photo Paper Panorama which will work in my Stylus Photo R300. It is 21.0 x 59.4cm , so a 16:9 print can be 21.0 x 37.3cm, if you print right to the edge.


Printer 3- Birind


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3D printers are seriously cool, but as of right now, they are new technology and pretty unreliable. I have a year of 3D printing experience, and I have tried and failed again and again trying to print various models on my printer. However, after failing that many times I have learn a thing or two about settings and tricks to get 3D prints right the first time. If you have any questions, ask away in the comments, and please vote for me if this is helpful!

This is probably one of the most common ways any 3D print can fail. 3D printers work by building up objects layer by layer, and if the layers come off of the bed, you usually end up with plastic spaghetti instead of a clean printed part.

Another common fail is over extrusion. Over extrusion happens when your 3D printer pushes out too much plastic too fast, causing a jam in the end of the nozzle. This jam builds up more and more until the hotend stops extruding altogether, leaving your print unfinished.

Take a piece of letter paper, normal weight, and fold it in half. Place it under your 3D printers' nozzle and home the hotend onto the paper. The paper should be sandwiched between the bed and nozzle. Now, try to slide it out from under the nozzle. If the paper moves freely, the nozzle is too high above the print bed. If there is too much resistance (you have to pull firmly on the paper to free it), the nozzle is too close to the print bed.

I'm having a problem with bed adhesion. I have it happening back & forth between 2 "dialed" in printers. I have an older E3.v2 with the CRTouch and Filiment Sensor. Correct firmware. It prints great. It has the Creality Glass bed and prints wonderfully most of the time. I still have adhesion problems. I added "rafting" which slows down prints soooo much! Near the end of a print, the raft begins to curl. POP it's loose. I run the recommended label temps for the filament PLA Silk, 225/60. I've taken it up/down 5 degrees, no change. I use Elmer's Glue stick on my bed. I may try Aqua Net (it is so messy) I'm having the same "possessed" results on my E3.v2NEO same filament, different prints. I'm glad they're printing. I did ZERO them, and manually level them. I set the Z offset to -20 to -30 which helps. This bed adhesion is perplexing! Any suggestions welcome.

I have a ender5 3d printer it printed 100% till a few days ago my fillament does not want to stick to the bed my bed is level right distance from bed I used hairspray on my magnet and I have put on 3d printer masking tape now still does not stick fillament make a blop under nozzle can you help please


I print stuff on my school's 3 3d printers. The only problem is that 2 of them stop printing after about 5-10 minutes of printing, sometimes longer. They're Makerbots (below picture is the model I think). It says "Extruder Error" when it stops, but I'm not sure if it is Over Extrusion because there is not silky strands coming from different parts of the print and we don't have to clean out the extruder. We just push the knob twice and it heats up (to 215 C) and starts printing again until it stops again.

*I would guess that your printer's extruer motor driver (A small board in the electronics box on your printer) is overheating, and needs to cool down. When it does cool, all you have to do is heat it back up and resume printing.

You will also have to experiment with printer settings. I printed mine the same way I would a regular document, except I went for a higher resolution. Again, you will have to experiment to see what suits you.

Once your design is ready to print, apply tape to either the whole page or just parts of it and print. Be careful not to touch the ink when you remove the page from the printer. Cut the image out, make sure to leave a little on one side so it's easy to handle.

Printing on the wrong (non-coated) side of inkjet transparency film will give you a similar result. You can also vary the degree of "too much ink" by using wrong settings... depending on the selected paper/media type a inkjet printer will add different amounts of ink. (or options like grayscale/color for getting black from K or by mixing CMY).


I just wouldn't recommend any of this. Because depending on the printer the wet ink will leave traces on the transport rollers inside and might mess up your following real prints. Also this might leave ink on sensors inside (for cd printing and other features the printer might have... feed scanner AIOs come to mind...).


This can work reasonably well... but it can have really bad side effects.

The primary ingredients in most printer inks are water, ethylene glycol and alcohol. Printer ink is about as safe as dish washing soap. Drinking it can make you sick, but it is not life threatening. But of course, different companies could add different stuff to their ink.

It is the shiny, side of the tape that make the inc not to stick and dry into the surface printed at.

It should also be good if the paper is pushed straight through the printer without doing any sharp turns, like in most laser printers. Laser printers also have a dryer, that heat up the paper. That could potentially ruin your Laser printer. And the powder are even potentially more of a risk then the ink to the skin.


So only try it on ink printer.


Another important consideration is support structures. Because PETG exhibits very good interlayer adhesion, PETG supports can be difficult to remove. Users without a multi-material 3D printer may therefore need to tweak their support settings to ensure they can easily remove their supports without damaging the build.

Note that I used the 5mm version of his test charts, which are intended for DSLR cameras, and when printed at 25cm width, have a magnification of x50. However with my dated inkjet printer, the pattern 'died' for anything to the right of about 100 lp/mm, and one I had commercially printed was little better. I understand the best current inkjet printers can do better - and are sharp across the full chart.

1. Go to: 

2. Choose a printer, either Black and White 15 cents or Color Printer One Dollar.

3. Type in your email address.

4. Select the document by clicking Browse or enter the URL of the website you wish to print.

5. Click the green printer icon to print your document. Your document can be picked up at the circulation desk of the Civic Center Library.

Birds beaks can regenerate, but only over long periods of time. Jane knew that for Beauty to survive, she needed a more urgent solution. The answer turned out to be technology. With the help of a team that included her own dentist, Jane oversaw the design and fitting of a prosthetic beak made with a 3D printer. Within hours of the procedure, Beauty was drinking water like any other bald eagle, scooping it up from her dish.

I have had this printer for over a year with no real issues. It was extremely easy to set-up. The printer works flawlessly with four computers one of which is a Mac and the rest are Windows machines consisting of XP, Vista, and Windows 7. It works very well on the wired network, wirelessly, and traditionally via usb. It does a good job faxing, scanning, and for general printing. It prints decent quality photos. The quality of your paper is the predominant factor in the outcome of images. ...

You will receive a confirmation email with instructions for printing. Go to the public printer in the Library near the Reference Desk. Log into the Print Release Station computer with your email address to identify your print job(s). Pay for the job to release it.

Computers

The library has eight patron computers which can be logged onto with a library card in good standing (learn how to get one). If you are just visiting the area, a guest pass can be used. There is a color printer linked to each computer; black and white pages are $0.20/page and color are $0.50/page.

You must have a printer attached to your computer that is capable of printing graphics (either black and white or in color). You will be instructed to print your license document and you will need to carry it with you while participating in that activity. The license you print is the only license you will receive. e24fc04721

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