Stages

Day zero

Well, here I am in the Albergue de el Salvador, in Oviedo. It is big and there is a feeling/smell? of seminar, but it has been colonised by pilgrims, so it’s alright. Many pilgrims who come from Camiño del Norte change to Primitivo here, so there is a mix of people starting and other already with 400-500km done. From the many things I heard in the last 2 weeks, here’s one I found interesting. A young pilgrim, when asked why he decided to walk the camiño, responded that it was in fact his grandfather’s suggestion as in fact he didn’t know what to do in the summer. His grandfather couldn’t do it for his age/health and so in a sense they were both doing it. This integrational link is amazing when it happens! The photo is from the statue of Alfonso II, the king who undertook the journey to Santiago in 814, once primitivo, or original.

Day 1, 38km

Primitivo’s first stage really shows that this camiño is special. Ups and downs, ups and downs and some really serious slopes. I tried to have a coffee after leaving Oviedo at 6:15, but because it was early and because it was Sunday, I had to wait 4 hours, that is, 20km. As a consequence, coffee at about 10:30 meant I only had 5-6 km to the end of the stage, so I reconsidered the whole plan. I pushed towards an Albergue in a beautiful monastery, in Cornellana, and that meant my first stage was 38km long, with 1171m ascent and 1386 metres descend. The scenery is really beautiful, through forests, rural landscapes and some tiny villages. Weather was a bit overcast, which helped in such a long stage, since I don’t make many photos and it wasn’t too hot.

Day 2 Monasterio Salvador to Tineo, 34km

Today I felt the kilometres from yesterday. Again, it was ups and downs all day. 1473 metres ascent and 855 metres descent. In total, I ended up walking 34 km, as I made a stage and a half, and it took me as long as yesterday. I need an easier day tomorrow, no more than 20km hopefully. Still, it was a beautiful walk with three pit stops for coffee, after 8km, 11 km and 21 km. Bit overcast, bad for photos, warm but not hot. Did not see many pilgrims all day. Staying at a 16th century palace in Tineo - 4* hotel which includes a basement floor for pilgrims. Quite nice and good quality. The walk reminded me of the Sanabrés and at times, Ireland. Most of the way there were lovely forest - oaks, chestnuts - but also fruit trees – plums are good to eat now, figs a bit early and apples also. Did not have a proper lunch so have to grab something now and get to bed early!

Day 3 Tineo to Colinas de Arriba, 21km

Short day today – 21km – although mountainous (837 metres ascent and 738 descent). Body recovered nicely from two heavy days and so tomorrow I can start one of the most famous stages of this camiño following the Hospitales route. Hope there’s a bit of sun as today was grey, some mist, not very hot and shitty for photographs (why am I carrying my 2 kg camera?). Today, the phone call from my dad was the most special, as he is not really a person who uses the phone much. As I was talking I did not see a sign to turn right and ended up having to make an improvised route to get back in the camiño. Nothing new. I’m in a new Albergue, opened this year, and run by a young couple who are trying to earn a living in a village where there is nothing. Hope it works for them. They serve lunch, dinner, breakfast and drinks. As I was the only one here before lunch (arrived at 12:30) I had a lovely quiet meal outside. After 2:30pm pilgrims started to arrive. I think most started late (by late I mean after 7:30) as I did not pass any one my way. Now the place is almost full (18 of 20 places), and it’s quite lively. Night should be cool and this place is at about 800 metres. Sleeping bag night!

Day 4 Colinas de Arriba – Berducedo, 21km

Mountain walk today with serious ascents (1013 metres accumulated) and descends (685 metres accumulated). 21 km again, but almost 1 hour more than yesterday. Unfortunately, there was mist and clouds in the higher parts, so difficult to see what is commonly said to be majestic. Towards the descend, the weather cleared a bit. In some of the smaller villages, with only one Albergue, it is difficult to find a bed. I phoned to a few, trying to walk 25km or 35km, but no luck. So, it was either staying in Berducedo, 21km, or push until Grandas de Salime, 42km. I was wise today, and stayed in Berducedo, in a okaish Albergue, with no character. Landscape reminded me of Gerês, in NW Portugal, and in common both are heavily transformed places. Here, Roman mining and more recent mineral exploration, left numerous heaps in the slopes. Recent forest fires (2022?) contributed to desolation. Still, lovely valleys, many cattle, horses, and further down, beautiful forests. There is no single place for water refill, let alone a coffee…Here in this village, there are two albergues and it is pilgrims that provide some life to the two cafés and the shop that I have seen.

Day 5 Berducedo – Castro, 27km

Best day so far regarding weather and photos. Sunny and even hot. Tired now, as I ended up walking about 27 km, with 1597 metres ascent and 1832 metres descent. It’s always up and down, really. Landscapes were wonderful though and it is worth it. Staying in an Albergue in the middle of nowhere which is great. There’s a communal dinner and breakfast and not many rooms (12 places?). There are 2 or 3 tents also, and a nice café in the Albergue. Short today!

Day 6 Castro – Piñeiral, 25km

It seems there are no easy stages in the Primitivo. 25km seemed like a good option after yesterday, but still they were tough (919 metres ascent and 707 metres descent). Morning was beautiful, walking always above the clouds always above 1000 metres. Afternoon was softer, and already in Galicia. In this camiño, considering the number of pilgrims, a large percentage has their bags transported everyday. It is fine, but it is not nice when some of these “pilgrims” are young and healthy and pass you full speed. Furthermore, I have seen various people taking taxis when it is too difficult to go up or down! I wonder what they say when they get to Compostela to get the credential!! A cyclist almost run me over this morning as I had my headphones on and we were both going on a narrow path. He came from behind, didn’t know if he shouted or not, but it was close. I am staying a few kilometres after the “normal” stage, avoiding to be where most people are. It is a fine Albergue that doubles as a hotel, just by a road which is not too busy. There’s a fine restaurant where I had a massive lunch with various workers from the surrounding area. That should keep me going until tomorrow. Perhaps the highlight today was a sweet encounter with nature. In a field next to the camiño a cow was giving birth. I watched for about 15-20 minutes as life unfolded, and as several people were helping the calf to be born (I think she was not in the best position). So, two photos today.

Day 7 Pineiral – Castroverde, 30km

Another tough day. 30km, always up and down (1111 metres ascent and 1417 metres descent) with unreal inclinations! Again a beautiful early morning above the clouds, and then wonderful walks through woods of chestnuts and oak trees. Several coffee stops and once again made it to a bit after the established stage. The Xunta Albergue is great, and there are festivities in the honour of Santiago these days, so perhaps some music later on.

Day 8 Castroverde- Lugo, 22km

I think this was the first easy day…a walk in the park, through farming land, forests (interestingly how eucalyptus are now more present), and abandoned houses and villages; 22km, and no really mountains!! Last night there were nice local bands playing in some bars….Galician/Celtic music, with bagpipes and good sound. Went to bed later than normal (23:00) and today started late (7:30!). Yet, I was in Lugo before 1pm, the opening time of the Albergue. Nice one, from the Xunta, inside the roman walls. Whether was cool to walk, and there was almost a light drizzle…bad for photos though. There were no services in this stage. Yet, in a small village a man left some prunes in plastic bags, free to take (I actually met him and he said he had just picked them from his trees), there was also a donativo place (a man who has walked several camiños had some fruits and juices/water for pilgrims – I stamped my credential and left 1€ but did not want to take any food as my bag pack had already loads….), and a vending machine for drinks. In Lugo, after a shower and having washed my clothes (daily routine), I eat a Caldo Galego (potato and vegetable soup) and pulpo (octopus) and a fine bottle of wine. Now I should be having a nap (I really feel I should), like many pilgrims now, but here I am in the computer!!! Tomorrow is a long day again, as I will try to stay away from the main stages. Photo is from the Lugo walls, as I almost did not take any on the way.

Day 9 Lugo - As Seixas, 34km

Rolling hills, farmland, 34km with no difficulties. Left Lugo quite early, after a bad night, had a nice lunch on the way at Casa da Ponte, and by 2:30 pm was already showering in the nice Albergue from Xunta. The 100km pilgrims are already on the way…small backpacks, lots of panafernalia (flags, stickers and other little decorative things), a lot of voltaren (gel and pils), bad shoes, blisters and pains, but also smilles and happyness. Perhaps the stupid rule should be: if you walk 100km of the camino, no matter where, you get a certificate in the nearest church, and not the last 100km. Galicia, the Xunta, and the church in Santiago are too powerful, and they want everyone here for the €€!! Primitivo joins Frances in Melide, so probably tranquility ends tomorrow, 14.6 km from here. Curious and aprehensive…but in a sense I think primitivo ended in Lugo…now it’s only a matter of joining the dots. Mobile photo from roman bridge at Lugo in the early morning…as today I did not even take my camera out of the backpack…grey and rainy.

Day 10 As Seixas – A Calzada, 34km

Similar stage to yesterday, same 34km, but in one hour less (did not stop for lunch). Going out of As Seixas is actually nice, as there is a small mountain to climb, and sun was just rising (photo). By the time the camiño joined francês, it became busy…I was only going to Ribadisio (stayed there last year in Milpés Albergue), but it was just too early to end the day (12:00), so decided to continue. Arzúa was like Disneyland, so many people, long queue in the Albergue, many groups of pilgrims, so decided to continue, until I got to Taberna Vella, Heidi’s Albergue (a German or Austrian couple), just in the camiño. No one had arrived by 2.30 pm, so I got a place, and I picked a nice bed. Now there are 6 people, in a 8 people’s dorm. A mix of people doing Primitivo (2), Del Norte (1) and Francês (2) – not sure about the 6th one, but not Primitivo. It’s quite a nice place with a beautiful garden. Bar in front is closed as today is Santiago day, festivity in Galicia. But, there is a communal dinner at 7pm, which is great! There’s a lovely kitchen also, free tea and coffee, so I made a nice one with the Italian coffee machine. Weather was fresh all day, but no rain. It doesn’t seem like summer at all. Anyway, I have booked a place for tomorrow in Santiago, so all going well, I’ll finish primitive in 11 days, a day ahead of my initial schedule.

Day 11 A Calzada - Santiago de Compostela, 34km

Yesterday's dinner, at Heidi's albergue, was possibly the best one I had in the camino. Unfortunatelly, there was a snorer in the room and it wasn't me! Mid morning I had to stop to have a zoom meeting. The forest became my office. Luckily, it only lasted 40 minutes! I made the 34km to Santiago easily, and stopped for lunch before arriving. Walked mostly alone, so it was strange to enter Obradoiro square again, but this time on my own. First time. So, this was my last post on this group. Hope some of at least were encouraged by my reports to walk a Camino, no matter where. Ciao!!

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