Český Krumlov
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This panorama was made near Nad Schody (= Above the Stairs) off Plešivecké Náměstí (Náměstí = Square) not far from our apartment rental. The steep-roofed Church of St. Vitus with its pointy spire is to the right of the castle. The castle more or less starts at the Castle Tower (left of center) and sprawls to the left.
Bohemian Rhapsody - Table of Contents
Český Krumlov, Short & Sweet
Český Krumlov, Short & Sweet
After five nights in Prague, we travelled about 110 miles and three hours south via an eight-person shuttle bus to the historic and picturesque town of Český Krumlov. We were in Český Krumlov for just two nights. We rented an “apartment” at the five–room Pension Athanor. Our suite had all the modern amenities you could want including a sauna (but no AC) in a building built before 1569. Český Krumlov, like Prague, was built on the banks of the Vltava River and like Prague, it has a big-ass castle (the second largest in the Czech Republic), a dominant cathedral called St. Vitus (like Prague), and serpentine cobblestone streets (like parts of Prague).
We toured the castle from end to end, from the bear pit to the formal French & English gardens, from the top (tower with an expansive view) to the bottom (the wooden gears/set changing machinery under the stage of a Baroque theater and the surreal sculpture of Miroslav Páral on exhibit in a dank, dark, dirt-floor castle cellar complex). We saw a show of the artist Jan Saudek’s work at a gallery and visited the Museum Fotoatelier Seidel, the home and studio of a turn of the century photographer. We ate trdelnik and drank Eggenberg beer and Becherovka. We did not use the sauna.
Český Krumlov is a town of roughly 14,000 - 15,000 inhabitants located in Southern Bohemia not far from the German and Austrian border. This was historically a very German part of Bohemia. Before WWI approximately 85% of the Český Krumlov population identified as German. This changed after WW II when over two million ethnic Germans were deported to East and West Germany.
The town's appearance is supposedly little changed since the 18th century. Rick Steves wrote: "Český Krumlov feels lost in a time warp." Český Krumlov is a popular tourist destination. Perhaps too popular. Some would say it has become over-touristed. Up to a million tourists elbow and jostle their way through the narrow streets each year. Tour busses from Prague and Linz unload on the edge of town. Danube River cruise ships regularly offer Český Krumlov as a shore excursion. Like most tour groups visiting smaller towns, the tourist throngs do not necessarily stay overnight. Others have mentioned that if you want the "fairytale, storybook" experience of Český Krumlov, you should stay overnight and venture out onto the streets as the sun sets (after the tour groups have departed). I've also read a few recommendations that one should visit in winter, when there are fewer tour groups and a dusting of snow adds to the atmosphere and ambience.
The view through a window in the castle tower.
Český Krumlov wasn't always a tourist town. During Czechoslovakia's 40-year Communist era, Český Krumlov fell into disrepair. However, since the Velvet Revolution of 1989 much of the town has been rejuvenated. Český Krumlov is now the second most visited city in the Czech Republic. The historic center of the town made UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1992.
Today the city is known for its sprawling castle, narrow, labyrinthine, traffic-free cobblestone streets, moldavite (a stone from a meteorite), Egon Schiele (the artist who lived here briefly) and rafting on the loopy river.
Český Krumlov Castle
Český Krumlov Castle
The Český Krumlov Castle complex (right) and the Vltava River as seen from the castle tower in this tilted, stitched together panorama.
"Státní hrad a zámek Český Krumlov" (Český Krumlov Castle) at night. After World War II the castle ownership was transferred to the Czechoslovakian state. It remains in state-ownership today.
The town of Český Krumlov was created around the castle, which was founded by the Lords of Krumlov around 1253. The Český Krumlov Castle complex is one of the largest in central Europe with an area of 17 acres. It is the second largest castle in the Czech Republic (second only to Prague Castle). It is made up of forty buildings, situated around five castle courtyards and a castle garden/park. And it has a bridge over dry land and moats filled with bears.
The Little Castle, the oldest part of the Český Krumlov Castle is situated on a steep rocky promontory towering above the Vltava River.
The Castle Museum is at the base of the Castle Tower. The Castle Museum documents the times of the Lords of Krumlov, the Rosenbergs, and other noble houses residing in Český Krumlov and transforming its appearance over the centuries. It's full of art and artifacts from the castle depositories. One admission fee gets you into the museum and the tower.
Castle Tower
Český Krumlov Castle has a climbable, rounded, six-story, 180-foot tall tower (162 stairs) dating back to the late 16th century. At the top is an observation deck with spectacular views.
Tired tourists rest in the 4th Courtyard. The entire side of this building is painted. Vaguely trompe-l'œil. No real bricks were harmed.
Murals and sgraffiti. The Little Castle is also known as Castle No. 59. This structure is on the 2cd Courtyard of Český Krumlov Castle. The Castle has five courtyards.
A stone stag, complete with draped hooves like a hunting trophy, adorns the exterior of a castle building. Which building? Who knows? The castle has forty buildings.
Castle buildings in red.
Wenceslas Cellars at Český Krumlov Castle
Wenceslas Cellars at Český Krumlov Castle
An underground art gallery. Literally underground. I don't know if these plumbed dental receptacles were meant to be sinks or urinals.
When we visited the Wenceslas Cellars we saw the sculptural work of the local (but internationally known) artist Miroslav Páral. Despite being born in Prague, Miroslav Páral always saw himself as a native of Český Krumlov. Páral's clay sculptures often exaggerate, enlarge, and morph body parts. His work isn't without controversy. A 2023 review of his work by Radio Prague International stated "Upon first look, you could be excused for thinking that all that was ever on this man’s mind were breasts and vulvae. The front room, and indeed several others, are lined with statues of female torsos with animal heads, their sexual glands greatly exaggerated." The Wenceslas Cellars seemed like a fitting venue for Páral's work.
At the castle, one does not have to stay above grade. The Wenceslas Cellars are open to the public. Situated under the 4th castle courtyard, the cellars were built in the early 14th century in order to level the Upper Castle. Legend has it that King Wenceslas IV was kept prisoner in these cellars in 1394. It is dark and dank and has uneven stone and dirt floors. These days the Wenceslas Cellars mostly host international exhibitions of ceramics, organized by the Agency for Czech Ceramic Design.
The Cloak Bridge at Český Krumlov Castle
The Cloak Bridge at Český Krumlov Castle
The Cloak Bridge (Plaštovy Most) in the castle complex seen at night.
The Cloak Bridge was built in stages starting in 1686 and not finished until 1777.
The Cloak Bridge is an attraction in and of itself. Cloak Bridge is a centuries-old, multi-arched bridge that replaced the original medieval castle drawbridge over the original castle moat. The Cloak Bridge was built in stages starting in 1686 and not finished until 1777 (these dates vary). The lower stone part that holds up the wooden corridors resembles a Roman aqueduct. The bridge's five layers span the gap between the castle and the adjacent embankment. It’s roughly 98 feet long and 131 feet high. The top three stories are covered. The covered corridors were essentially erected on massive pillars vaulted together on each story. The Cloak Bridge serves as a passageway that connects the fourth and fifth courtyards of the west side of Český Krumlov Castle. The top covered, rafter layer corridor no longer leads anywhere. The top used to connect the castle with the Monastery of Minorities in Latran. But, this is no longer the case. The covered passage beneath it linked the Masquerade Hall with the Castle Theatre. Years ago, the royal family would use this walkway as a "secret corridor" to their Royal Box. Then, below that is the passageway that links the Castle Gallery and courtyards with the Castle Gardens.
Visitors can walk over or under the Cloak Bridge for free and enjoy stunning views of the castle and surrounding area.
The Cloak Bridge, Castle Tower and the terrace at the castle cafe afford great views of the town.
The road toward Old Town. There is more than one covered bridge at the castle. They are often called "connecting corridors."
The Castle Theater at Český Krumlov Castle
The Castle Theater at Český Krumlov Castle
Baroque theater scenery was not just decorative; it was an integral part of the performance, contributing to the illusion, spectacle, and dramatic impact of the plays and operas of the era.
The Castle Theater purportedly has preserved in its collections 13 basic "sceneries" or sets that include a total of 250 pieces; over 30 fragments or individual pieces of set changing and special effect machines; over 170 costumes or costume components and props; over 400 pieces of lighting, as well as a trove of documents – everything mainly from 1766-68.
The Castle Theater (Zamecke Divadlo) was built from 1680-82 and renovated with modern (at the time) stage equipment in 1765-66. With original stage machinery, coulisses, scenery, librettos, costumes and props, it is the best preserved... and one of only two such theaters that still exist... anywhere.
For a separate fee, one can go on a guided tour of the theater, which is now only used on special occasions. The guided tour included going under the stage to see the elaborate wooden set changing machinery (wooden cogs, winches, cranks and pulleys) that once moved scenery, so the sets could magically slide into place.
The Castle Garden
The Castle Garden
The Castle Garden is a sprawling 17th century garden surrounding the castle. It offers a little calmness and tranquility and a lot of green.
As we walked through the gardens we got caught and drenched in a downpour.
The Bear Moat at Český Krumlov Castle
The Bear Moat at Český Krumlov Castle
The Bear Moat
The history of bear-keeping at Český Krumlov Castle goes back to the 16th century when bears were kept as royal pets. Bears have been kept in the castle's "bear moat" since 1707. As of 2025, the moat at Český Krumlov castle was inhabited by three brown bears. Marie Terezie is a 33-year-old female and two 7-year-old bears, a male Vilém, and a female Polyxena. The Czech Republic plans to end the practice of keeping castle bears by 2030. But they may make an exception for Český Krumlov Castle.
Boating on the Vltava River
Boating on the Vltava River
Rafting, canoeing and kayaking the Vltava River through Český Krumlov is a popular tourist activity. The river does a "U" turn as it meanders through town and has navigable weirs. We did not have time to do this. But from verious vantage points we watched as others did.
Jan Saudek
Jan Saudek
We went to the now defunct Galerie Dům Fotografie to see Jan Saudek photographs. Saudek is perhaps one of the Czech Republic's two most renown photographers (the other being Josef Koudelka). Saudek was a Holocaust survivor. In communist Czechoslovakia, Saudek was persona non grata. He was considered a pervert and a pornographer and had to work in secret. His hand-colored photographs were often quite kinky and sexually explicit. However, his work was recognized in other parts of Europe as well as the United States.
Museum Fotoatelier Seidel
Museum Fotoatelier Seidel
Museum Fotoatelier Seidel is the former home and studio of successful photographers Josef Seidel and his son František. Fotoatelier translates to photography workshop. Josef Seidel opened his photography studio, specializing in portraits and postcards, in 1888. In 1905 he moved to the house (now museum) where he lived and worked until he died in 1935. His son František then took over the business and operated the studio until 1949 when the studio was forcibly shut down by Klement Gottwald's newly empowered communist regime. They had 11 employees at the time. The Department of Information and Enlightenment confiscated what they thought had value and the State would later republish many of Seidel's postcards. František ended up in prison for awhile, separated from his home and loved ones. By (probably) 1953, decades worth of period photographs, photo postcards, glass plate and film negatives, cameras, studio and darkroom equipment went into storage where they remained until 1997. The house sat vacant for 50-plus years until it was purchased by the Český Krumlov Development Fund in 2005. About a decade after this historical treasure trove was rediscovered, the Museum Fotoatelier Seidel opened its doors in 2008. Now you can see the remarkably well-preserved photo-related artifacts and walk through the work and living spaces of Josef and František, from their studio to their darkroom, from their kitchen to their bedrooms - an unusual time capsule. This is an intriguing museum, not only for the photo enthusiast, but for anyone interested in pre-communist life in Český Krumlov. There is a self-guided audioguide and live guided tours, though. the live tours were not in English when we visited.
Asteroid City - Moldavite Ville
Asteroid City - Moldavite Ville
Photo of moldavite jewelry from the Magic Crystals Company.
As our time sightseeing wound down, Becky briefly shopped for moldavite jewelry. There is no shortage of shops that sell moldavite in Český Krumlov. There is even a moldavite museum in town. That may be because South Bohemia contains most all the moldavite on earth. Moldavite is a greenish, semi-precious glass-like gemstone formed by a meteorite that hit southern Germany about 15 million years ago. The impact caused moldavite to be strewn across parts of Germany, the Czech Republic and Austria. The Moldavite Museum claims that if you took all the shards of moldavite in the world and fused them into a ball, the ball would be about 45 feet in diameter. A single McDonalds sells a similar mass of fries each day. Alas, Becky did not find any asteroid jewels to her liking.
Around Town
Around Town
Becky posing at Seminární Zahrada (Seminar Garden) on Horní Street. One of the best views in town.
Two of the three landmark towers in Český Krumlov. The tower in the foreground is part of St. Jodock’s Church (St Jost) that was founded around 1330. The tower in the background is the Castle Tower.
Looking up at St. Vitus Church.
Virgin Mary atop the Marian Plague Column, Svornosti Square, center of Old Town. The statue was erected between 1714 and 1716 to commemorate the plague epidemic that struck the town in the late 17th century.
The Church of St. Vitus was built from 1407 to 1438, with later modifications. In 1995 it was declared a National Cultural Monument of the Czech Republic. The spire of St. Vitus Church (not to be confused with St. Vitus Cathedral in Prague) can be seen from most locations in town. The church is known for its towering roof and lavishly decorated nave, as well as being the final resting place of prominent Bohemian families such as the Rosenbergs and Schwarzenbergs.
Zombies peeking out a window on a side street.
Three historic tombstones attached to the wall of the Chaplain's House (Horní St. No. 159). The headstones were once in a churchyard.
The Český Krumlov Regional Museum in an old Jesuit school building which houses a collection that spans from pre-history to the 19th century. One of its highlights is a ceramic model of the city, claimed to be the largest of its kind globally.
The door to the now defunct Gorila (one L) Rock Pub. Nestled on a side street, the pub was called local, underground, loud and smoky in a 5-star review I read. I like the "no necktie" symbol on the window.
This house with the PA system loudspeaker was in Plešivecké Square. The loudspeaker is from a bygone era. In the bottom right is an empty wayside shrine. In the Czech Republic, wayside shrines are traditionally called "boží muka," which translates to "divine sufferings." The niche of the column usually has some sort of religious display.
This house is listed in a directory of historic houses. The decorated rear facade of this house faces away from Horni Street. The rear facade is where you find this niche closed by a glass lid now covering a modern statue of the Virgin Mary. The first known owner of the house was a draper (cloth seller) in 1513.
According to historic house records this is house No. 77 Široká. The first written record of this house is from 1523 when a widow sold the house. The house sale included brewing equipment and the condition that the widow would be allowed to live there until her death. Remnants of sgraffito decoration can be seen on the facade.
The fingers poking up out of the sidewalk were on Church Street near an art supply store.
Finger painting?
Eggenberg
Eggenberg
On our last night in Český Krumlov, after a long day of touring, we headed out for dinner on the late side. We were surprised to discover that most restaurants were already closed at 9:30 p.m. We ended up at Peking China, eating Chinese food and drinking Eggenberg beer (which was brewed in Český Krumlov from 1560 to 2014). By 9:45 restaurant personnel had locked the door and were mopping the floor.
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