Frog Grass Lawn

Lawn Grass

One of the significant decisions was to choose an appropriate lawn grass type. Having grown up pushing a lawn mower each weekend, I did not want to do that again, but the choices were few, it was Bermuda grass, Blue grass and a relative unknown locally called "Korean grass" or "Frog Grass". I typically avoid anything that people cannot provide a botanical name for; however after seeing a small patch and taking my shoes and socks off to feel it on my bare feet, then a brief discussion with the contractor/ grower, I decided to cover about two thirds of the property with it.

Frog grass looks like a short form of carabao [buffalo] grass that exhibits compact lateral growth on ground creeping stems therefore it does not need cutting and does not get "leggy" in the shade. Its short leave blades extend across the ground slowly filling up any gaps, it tolerates partial shade and some foot traffic, but not a combination of both. It cannot grow faster than weeds, so they need to be completely removed first, indeed I would call this grass a "slow grower". This coarse grass is not soft or rough, perfect for kids to play on, hence my bare feet test as I often walk around the lawn in bare feet

It is planted by taking sprigs of the plants and then laying then on the ground, sprinkling of soil on top, rolling flat, followed by abundant watering until they root and show some growth. Grass height is about 5 cm or less, never higher.

January 2015, the team shown above turn up with lots of sacks of sprigs and laid the entire lawn over 3 days. The bottom right picture was after 4 hours of effort. There are soil gaps between each sprig and it took a couple of months for these gaps to fully close.

Preparation is key, any weeds that existed before that are not completely removed will exist afterwards, thus it is key to remove them first, then wait a few days after soil preparation to see if any more appear, then the lawn can be laid. The contractor I used spent a considerable amount of time preparing, they checked the elevation of the lawn, they brought in fine soil, sieved the soil and ensured that there was subtle water run-off channels.

The lawn has been laid for a couple of years now with the general maintenance pattern of having three people spend one day every two weeks removing weeds. Weed removal might sound easy, but the contractor is an expert and they do it methodically and quickly. Some remedial work has had to be done where the preparation [weed removal] was not up to standard and where vehicles have caused damage; other than that the lawn has been great. Periodic fertilization is done like any other lawn although I am not sure if this grass type really needs it.

In summer the tips of the grass will get a bit brown, which I am not sure if it is a consequence of not watering enough or just that the sun is so fierce that it burns? I do get some persistent bald dry spots and tried to fix them by fertiliser or providing some shade; neither of them worked, the best approach is to replace entirely with new sod with healthy grass attached; not by sprigs. I have some areas the regularly get waterlogged and the grass grows well in average lighting conditions. Dry shady areas and the grass does not survive.

Here is an example of the short lateral growth which is not easily evident when it is in the soil, only when it hits something solid that it must grow over, then short laterals are seen. These can be cut off and planted in other sections of the garden, which I do during the rainy season. During summer I put them in a flower pot in the shade and water regularly. When established in the pot, and happily growing then it can be transplanted as an entire plug of grass. The grass then becomes much more effective in filling in those bare areas.

Originally I thought the grass was producing very very delicate, small translucent white flowers on very small stem that just peak above the height of the grass and are everywhere. These small white flowers were best seen in the mornings and I think there is symbiotic relationship with some fungi that is responsible. I have seen flowers occasionally as they are green and lay horizontal to the ground they are not really visible, plus I never saw what I would consider to be seed, so propagation seems to be by division only.

Unfortunately the scientific name of the grass is not confirmed, my best determination of what it is called scientifically is "Axonopus compressus (dwarf)" which is a dwarf cultivar of Axonopus compressus / carabao grass. Interestingly there is variegated variety and I have only seen one small example of this by accident in my lawn, which I did remove to see if I could grow beyond its current size; however was unsuccessful.

With so much green in the property because of the grass, I tend to focus on border plants with some brighter colours in the foliage or stems to avoid the mono green colour overload. This means that I avoid those shrubs with similar green coloured leaves, also the path layout used for the Driveway & Paths was was an attempt to break up the monolithic lawn with the use of a redish brick colour that reflected the reds in the boarder plants.

Fertilization

I use to fertilize quite regularly, eg once a quarter with a slow release fertilizer; but now I think that the weeds benefit more than the frog grass, so have stopped doing it for more than 2 years. I think that because frog grass is such a slower grower, it cannot take up the fertilizer faster than the weeds.

Grass Problems

Pest and weeds are obvious problems and mentioned below, however there are areas that just seem to die or become bald areas. Bald or damaged areas can arise for several reasons and have shown a few below.

Heavy Traffic Areas

Bald areas can result from heavy foot traffic that compact the soil, which results in shorter leaf stems. In the picture the grass on the top is walked on a lot, so much so that the plants have been impacted, with the leaf blades being noticable shorter. while half a meter off the path the grass is normal and lush.

Burnt Circles

I have a couple of dogs and where they urinate can burn the grass or produce green spots. Notice the weeds around the circle as frog grass is a slow grower, the weeds benefit more. The grass will recover after a month or two. At least I have the dogs doing their other business out the back in the wild garden.

Persistent Bald Spot

In the picture on the right there was a persistent bald spot and even after a year or more, the grass would never fill it it in, so took a deep sod of soil with grass and put it into the center. The picture on the left is a consequence of shallow soil over compress building aggregate, plus foot traffic. solution is to put in dedicated brick walkways, then deep sod replacement or live with it.

September 2021 - Refreshing the Lawn

If the persistent bald spots are generally getting worse and it has been several years since the lawn was sown, then lift it all up and redo it. I was told that this should be done about every 3 to 4 years, which I didn't believe. However after 5.5 years since the lawn was first planted, I have done just that for 50% of the lawn that looked tired and the transformation was impressive.

The old grass areas where lifted and the sprigs of grass that were good were reused. So I didn't need to buy any frog grass, just two elfs of good soil for the exercise. The challenge is doing this kind of work in stages at a time when it is not too sunny, too dry or too much rain. Too sunny and new grass sprigs can dry out fast, if you get rain, then it is a muddy mess and work stops. Perfect conditions are cloudy days, then light rain periods for several days afterwards.

I also wanted each stage to be 2 days long, and this covered removing the grass, doing the ground work of adding soil and rolling it smooth and then relaying the sprigs. There were six people in the team, who organized themselves in a manner that left the property in a tidy state after each two day stage. Additionally I took the opportunity to make the ground level with the new paths, so there was no step up or down to trip up running children and lastly adjusted flow off channel depression, which doesn't need to be deep, just a bit lower that the surrounding area. I used the same person/brothers that did my lawn the first time in January 2015, so absolute trust in that they know best. Actually it is hard to find skilled lawns people!

One thing that I have done more of, and that is roll the grass, even the non refreshed areas. After a good period of rain when the ground is soft, not mushy, I use the concrete roller to flatten and compact the older areas. This activity removes the knobby dimples that appear overtime, resulting in a smoother look, such that the new and old areas look the same. Picture taken early October 2021.

Lawn Pests

In May 2019 I had someone watering the garden while I was traveling and within two months had killed a big section of it, probably through over watering and doing the watering during heat of the day instead of evening or mornings; plus not recognizing the grass was suffering because of a pest invasion; then watering more and more until it rotted / was overtaken by weeds. Unfortunately I have found that there is no local knowledge about lawn care, so what would be considered common sense in Australia or New Zealand is not present as most people do not have lawns here in the Philippines.

The caterpillars, possibly sod webworm, were about 6 - 20 mm long and hard to see, indeed only when I had got the expert back to redo a big section, he was able to show me them. Insecticide shown below was applied a couple of times to cure the problem. when in doubt apply this and within minutes you will see the grubs wriggling all over the surface of the grass.

Some examples of insect damaged grass with some small bits removed from the leaf blades, the first two pictures have had insect killer applied, hence the caterpillars are visible. On the far right very damaged grass, but will recover quite quickly once sprayed. When in doubt spray, it doesn't take long.

Weeds

A lot of time has been spent on removing weeds, which is a never ending battle common to every gardener. I have three types, 1] the garden plant that self seeds and becomes a bit of a pest; 2] the noxious kind invasive kind; and 3] the weed that is probably impossible to remove.

An example of this is the Alocasia [Elephant Ear] and guava fruit regularly sprout all over the garden as the birds and bats distribute the seeds around the property. The course of action to to remove the Alocasia seed heads before they ripen. Bats leave a surprising amount uneaten food/seed/fruit items about under the trees where they must hang temporally and have a snack before returning to their roost. I did have one that liked to eat in the Nipa hut and had to leave the light on a few nights to persuade it to eat elsewhere.
The 2nd kind also requires a lot of commitment to remove like Kangkong. Kangkong is a tasty vegetable when cooked, but a nasty weed in the garden. It is easy to spot, but its deep roots make eradication hard. Then there is the small vines that I do not know the name off, that try to strangle the plants, early intervention is required for these and always get the vines before they produce miniature melon like fruit. The fruit is also editable, but it is a weed requiring dedication to remove.
The rogue grass types. The grass in the back third of the property is not Frog Grass but a local type that is kept short by regular cutting. This sedge grass puts nodules deep under the surface and has hair like runners connecting them. I just live with this for the moment as trying to remove this stuff would be next to impossible.

Weeds are expected and they need to be controlled or they will ruin your lawn, it is this ongoing maintence that needs to be implemented forever. I can understand why some people just put artificial grass down or just concrete their entire surroundings.

Sedge Grass

Manual intervention required to pull out each weed before it becomes established and before it creates peanut like nodules under the ground.

Sedge Grass in Flower

The flowering head of this plant is supported by a triangular stem

Sedge Grass in Flower

Another Sedge type of grass, however the flowering head of this plant is slightly different, but it is also supported by a triangular stem

Elephant Ear Seedling

Manual removal by pulling out the entire plant, along with the root.

Guava Tree Seedling

The bats drop the seeds into the garden beds and the these grow agressively, but are quit stealthy in that you can have a 1 meter plant lurking right in-front of you, then you wonder why you didn't spot it earlier. Removal by pulling out the entire plant, along with tap root.

Ferns

Not really a difficult weed to remove, the bottom type is known as "maiden head" fern and I like it, so it stays. The top one can take over and become untidy, at which point I remove the plants. Both like to be in rock crevasses or in gaps in brick work.

Unknown Weed 1

Almost invisible against the green grass, invasive and truly difficult to remove manually quick enough as they begin to appear everywhere

Unknown Weed 2

This plant will grow several feet high and have prickles along the stem, best removed when small and before it can flower and self seed.

Peperomia pellucida Linn

Small plant that likes to grow in damp areas or damp nooks along walls. It has soft succulent like stems with tiny dot like flowers that produce tiny seeds that fall off and produce more. Really easy to pull out. Apparently the stems and heart shaped leaves can be eaten.

Miniature Creeping Cucumber

Melothria Pendula A small vine producing marble size cucumbers that are eatable. This vine is rapid grower, it tends to grow underneath an overhanging plant, then climbs to the top and strangles the plant.

Miniature Cucumber

Melothria Pendula are eaten while green, I have tried it and it was ok, just like cucuber. However when it turns black and eaten it is supposed to be a strong laxative.

Paspalum

probably called "Paspalum conjugatum" or is could be " Digitaria ciliaris" a grass the lurks in the boarders of the garden, then invades. it puts down multiple roots structures as it invades. Manual removal required.

Purslane

Purslane (Portulaca Oleraea) is an eatable succulent, although I havent tried it. It puts down multiple roots structures as it invades. Manual removal required

Axonopus Compressus

Axonopus compressus hides amongst the lawn and looks like frog grass, however it flowers and will stand taller than frog grass. I identify it by its seed stalks that lie horizontal in the grass, so it is hard to spot. Manual removal required

Cynodon dactylon?

Bermuda Grass (Cynodon dactylon) spreads aggressively by strong, wiry above ground runners (stolons) and put down deep roots at each node. This grass hides amonst the frog grass and is very wiry. Manual removal when soil has been wet for a while is required and it is tough to pull out.

“Miracle Tree” Seedlings

Moringa oleifera (Malunggay), often referred to as the “Miracle Tree”,

Unknown Weed 3

A soft stemmed plant that can climb, but has no tendrals. This plant survives on low light locations and then climbs through the branches of the surrounding plants tp get to the light.

Prunella vulgaris var. vulgaris?

Not entirely sure what this plant is called, however it likes damp areas and is a slow grower, slower than the frog grass, so it does not get out of control. I tend to leave this where it is.

Mimosa seedling

Mimosia has the common name of "Shy Plant" as it closes its leaves when touched. Mimosa have thorns on them and even the small plants. Removal by pulling out the entire plant, along with tap root.

Unknown Weed 4

Looks like a mimosa seedling, but it has alternating leaves and no thorns. Removal by pulling out the entire plant, along with tap root. The weed killer below is effective

Kangkong Seedling

Kangkong or Ipomea aquatica Torsk, is easy to spot and easy to pull out if small. When established in a wild spot in your garden then digging out the until the tap root is removed is required

A selective weed killer / herbicide has been a option of last resort, but for some weeds it is essential for control. I have tended to be reactive in applying this stuff, but have got to the point where I thinking the the best approach is to apply on a monthly basis during the dry season when it cannot be washed off by the afternoon rains. You know the herbicide is working when the weeds slowly turn yellowish and become more visible against the green grass. The tips of sedges turn yellow as well, but I doubt a mature plant is killed. Apply Agroxone often and the number of weeds will be dramatically reduced. if has no impact on Cynodon dactylon unfortuanty.

Warning: Don't use anything else other than Agroxone herbicide, or your lawn grass will die a slow death over days/weeks . Don't listen to anyone that says their product is ok, it is not worth the risk as I found out the hard way,

Caveat - good lawns are a consequence of regular constant effort, a "Frog Grass" lawn is no different.

Page updated

Google Sites

Report abuse