Journal of a Passage from London to Sydney

in the Sailing Ship "Anne Duthie"

June 21 to Sept 18 1878

WHLtoS.pdf

Link to a PDF version of the journal with illustrations: https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTMDryzaOk5H6ClvAnCBGWzulpSSQQnkiiOuZGaPmxakTuvxWganhR9PsabFaSM_BSYL0rtYUY74_Yc/pub


Text-only version below:

Journal of a Passage from London to Sydney

in the Sailing Ship "Anne Duthie"

June 21 to Sept 18 1878


From a Log-Book kept by William Hampson


Editor's Foreword

This journal was compiled using my great grandfather William Hampson's transcript of his original log of his voyage from London to Sydney in 1878 together with material from a relatively shorter bound volume of 'Notes', prepared by him at a later date. The log contains more spontaneous observations, while the Notes provided some more measured detail.

William's own foreword (below) explains that his Notes were compiled for members of a group: I have not been able to track down what the group was or what the C.A.C. portfolio was about. I have also been unable to work out how much later than 1878 the Notes were prepared, but William seems to suggest that 1878 was some time ago.

In the version of this journal containing illustrations, I have copied pictures and diagrams from both the transcribed log and the Notes. All the paintings and sketches were done by William. I have applied a light touch to editing, but have tidied up here and there and corrected some spelling errors.

While the narrative of the voyage is quite entertaining, readers should note that the story ends pretty sharply after dropping anchor in Sydney Harbour! The reader can judge the accuracy of William's assertion that "there are no adventures to relate". And no, unfortunately I don't have any record of William's onward trip back to England via Cape Horn, also in a sailing vessel.

Phil Davies, Cumbria, 2008 (minor amendments to website, 2022)


William Hampson's Foreword to his 'Notes' on the voyage


Miss Sutton asks if I can send another article for the C.A.C portfolio. After reading Mr Wilson's account of his journey to Mexico, which I very much enjoyed, it occurs to me, the members may be interested to hear something about travel in the old passenger carrying sailing vessels, which have been a thing of the past for so many years. Their rapid decline dated from the opening of the Suez Canal in 1866, which was no use to them, while it was of great service to Steamships, which soon increased in size, speed & accommodation, monopolizing trade to the East & our Australian colonies. Years before the opening of this canal numbers of fast Clipper Sailing Ships were built specially for this trade, all carried passengers, as well as cargo. Today there is not one left on the British register. No one regrets their extinction more than I do, for they were things of beauty. There are a few large sailing vessels left on foreign registries, but they cannot compare for beauty with the old clippers. However it is no use repining, sail is far too slow for the present day push.


It was in one of the fine old wooden Clipper Ships, the "Ann Duthie", that I made a passage from London to Sydney in 1878; then 19 years of age & lucky enough to be sent a trip round the world before joining my Father in his business.


I propose providing parts of the log-book then kept, most of it is too personal to be of general interest, being kept for my people at home, & illustrated with pen & ink sketches, some of these I have tried to copy in pen & wash, to save time. The only drawing I had done then was from the flat, at school; but I hope to convey some idea of what travel was like in 1878, as a passenger in a sailing ship.


There are no adventures to relate. In those days a voyage to Australia was thought adventurous, at any rate by people living in the Midlands, as we did. Conditions were so different from ocean travel today. Now one simply takes a ticket, gets a berth allotted, goes on board to find everything provided by the ship & a start is made, as punctual as by train. By the sailing ship, the start was a very "moveable feast", it was often put off from day-to-day, for completion of the cargo and in any case it was necessary to be on board some days before the start, because passengers had to fit up their cabins. Nothing was included in the first class passage money beyond food in the saloon, the services of a Steward, & use of a State-room for the passage. This room had no fittings of any kind, just some plain walls, so one had to build a bunk, provide all bedding & linen, also all fittings & fixtures needed, crockery & even carpet. 2nd class passengers had cabins on the main deck, which they also had to fit up with all required. Their food was served out to them daily, but was eaten in their own cabins, for they were not allowed in the saloon, or on the poop deck.


In the saloon, the food, cooking & service was found. Sheep, Pigs, Chickens, Ducks, Turkeys & Geese were carried alive, but these were only for the officers & 1st class passengers. Fresh water was a scarce commodity, rationed carefully to all hands. No bath room or baths of any kind on board. The only light provided being the oil swing lamps, over the dining table in the saloon. Light for our cabins we had to provide, & these for safety had to be fitted in gimbals.


The fittings we had to provide were all easily disposed of, for tradesmen came on board at Sydney & were keen to buy all.


On the trip I had two friends on board viz:- John Scott who was some years my senior & his brother who had just taken his M.D. & had been appointed ship's surgeon to the "Ann Duthie", for the passage out, in lieu of passage money. Both went on to New Zealand, while I spent three months in the Australian Colonies, then took a passage home in another sailing vessel around Cape Horn, completing the trip round the world under sail.


Friday 21st June 1878


The crew came on board this morning, mostly drunk. A few of them were brought down in wheel barrows & dumped on deck, in a perfectly helpless condition, not a very pleasant sight, but we are told it is quite usual at the start of ocean going sailing ships. As well as the officers, the Bo'sun, Carpenter & Sailmaker, & a few of the men are quite sober, & these are enough for work required today. Others retired to their bunks. Weather fine & warm. A quite new experience to be on board a large sailing vessel for us "land lubbers". My longest sail so far, being a trip in a Channel steamer, Newhaven to Dieppe. Ship in great confusion & meals not very satisfactory, but we take comfort from the Steward's assurance of better things tomorrow.


The Ann Duthie left S.W. India dock London at 4.15p.m. with the following passengers for Sydney:-


Saloon

Mrs Paul of Bristol

Miss Mary Paul ditto

Miss Linda Paul ditto

Mr John Scott of Wallsall

Dr W. Scott of Bedford

William Hampson of Walsall


2nd Cabin

Mrs Randle

Miss Peas

Masters G & A Peas


3rd Cabin

Messrs Shaw, Griffin, Baker & Malcolm

Mr & Mrs Cox & 3 children

Mr & Mrs Hillier


Officers & Crew

Captain Hunter

1st Mate Alexander

2nd Mate McLean

3rd Mate White

Two midshipmen

Bo'sun or Boatswain

Carpenter

Sailmaker

Steward

2nd ditto

Cook

2nd ditto

Able Bodied Seamen 14

Ordinary ditto 4

Apprentice 1

(Total crew 31)


Towed down to Gravesend, there made fast to a mooring in the night. J.S., the Doctor & I have been engaged the last three days fitting up out State-rooms, with the aid of two carpenters, & furnishing them. J.S. & I have a joint cabin with a door leading into the Doctor's. Papa, Mama, Mrs Cottrrell, Mr John N. Cotterell, Mrs Scott & Mr Harry Scott came as far as Gravesend with us after having had tea aboard. We wished them goodbye not with the lightest hearts. They went ashore in a small boat. We afterwards saw them cross the river in the Ferry. We went on the Forecastle & waved towels & Handkerchiefs to them till they were out of sight. George Scott came aboard at Gravesend & stayed all night with us. Turned in at 10.30. The Captain came on board at 11 p.m.


Saturday 22nd June


Got up 3.30 a.m. Found our new beds & bedding comfortable. Made coffee with our own spirit stove & had early breakfast in our cabin. Ships biscuits. Soon on deck, where the crew were all busy straightening up & putting things "ship-shape". The sailors look quite a different set of men now they are sober. They will be all right now, for they are not allowed to buy drinkables, all they get is their ration of Rum, 1 Gill served out at the end of the 1st dog watch 6 p.m. each day. There is some excuse for the "spree" they had yesterday. They have signed on for the voyage, which may take two years, for it is not known until we get to Sydney where the Ann Duthie will be sent next. It may be to China and back, before returning to London. The men all had a month's pay in advance, when they signed up, & this money was all spent before they came on board, hence the condition they were in yesterday.


4.30 a.m. Our tug came alongside, a start was soon made, with a favouring tide.


Mr Alexander, the Mate, found two "Stowaways" when making up the main hatchway, they are now on deck looking very miserable, in handcuffs. They are to be sent ashore.


8.30 a.m. Breakfast in the saloon.


11.20 a.m. Thames pilot went ashore, took our letters and the stowaways, although they begged Capt Hunter to take them on. John is becoming very poetical. As the pilot was leaving he came out with this: 'The rope is breaking strand by strand, that ties us to our native land'.


Mr Stanton Channel Pilot now takes charge.


12 noon to lunch in Saloon. Enjoyed good views of shipping down the Thames & coast of kent, passed near to Margate, Ramsgate, Deal & Dover.


12.30pm. Sun very hot. Only ¾ mile off the coast, got a splendid view of Dover. Tried fishing. Dragged spoon bait after the ship but with no success.


3.30 p.m. Passed Dungeness Point.


4 p.m. dinner. 7 p.m. High Tea. Meats of various kinds served at all four meals. Hot at B'fast and Dinner. Cold at Lunch & Tea.


7.30 p.m. Tug cast off, near Beachy Head, so start on our own. Sailors all aloft setting sails, which have so far been furled. "Ann Duthie" looks very different with her snowy canvass spread to the breeze, which is only light at present, fortunately for us "landlubbers". The ship reminds me of a great Swan quietly cleaving her way through the calm water.


The sailors were divided into two watches. The Mate commands the Starboard watch, & 2nd Mate the Port. These officers chose the men in rotation, the Mate having first pick. The remainder of the crew are called "Idlers", they include Bo'sun, Carpenter, Sailmaker, Stewards, Cooks & Butcher. These so-called idlers do not keep watches, but are on duty 6 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily, & always have 12 hours below each night, unless 'all hands' are called, when they must turn out. A watch lasts 4 hours & are kept alternately by the Mates, with the men they have chosen, day and night; the watch 4 to 8pm is divided into two so-called 'dog watches'. This arrangement changes the order of the watches daily, so that the men who have two watches on deck the first night only get one the next, & so on.


9 p.m. Turned in for night.


Sunday 23rd June


Got up 8.30 a.m., rather late for breakfast. Feeding hours:


8.30 Breakfast

12.0 Luncheon

4.0 Dinner

7.0 Tea


Sighted Isle of Wight 9.20 & then Portland Bill. Could almost fancy ourselves in the country - the smell of the hay is delicious. We are about 8 miles from shore. Saw several shoals of mackerel jumping up; in the bright sun they made the seal look like boiling quicksilver.


5.0 p.m. Awfully disgusted at the row of a screw steamer passing ½ mile off. Jolly glad we are not on a steamer. It's a quiet as being in the country on the Anne Duthie when there is not too much wind.


Wrote to Papa, Mama, Alice, Lissie, Uncle William & Jack Kerr by the Pilot, that is Mr Stanton the Channel Pilot. We expect he will leave some time tonight.


Had no service today, all busy letter writing.


Lots of shipping. Sea still calm, wind dropped altogether tonight.


Monday 24th June


On deck early & had a tramp with the Mate before breakfast. He told me no headway was made in the night, in fact we have drifted back up Channel some miles with the tide. We shall get to Sydney some time at this rate. Saw porpoises and shoals of mackerel. Portland Bill in sight again, with the Channel Fleet at anchor behind the breakwater. Spent the morning in fencing, jumping, climbing and fishing.


4.30 p.m. Breeze from W.N.N. taking us towards France.


Meal times altered, find 4 too many, so Captn has arranged Breakfast 8.30 a.m., Dinner 1 p.m., High Tea 5.30 p.m., then should any supper be needed it may be had by asking the steward. This is quite sufficient as we have a variety of meats at each meal. We find the food quite good, well cooked & served. Bread is baked on board daily, in addition there are biscuits "Ships" and "Captains", ad lib. Both good. Very excellent Pea Soup is frequently given at Dinner.


Retired 9.15.


Tuesday 25th June


Got up 7.50 a.m. Still in sight of Portland Bill. After breakfast we caught our first fish. John went to the line and was very much surprised to find a fish hanging on which turend out to be a 'ganet' wighing about 1lb. Tried to keep him alive in a bucket of water, but he died in about an hour. We gave it to one of the youngsters forward. She had it for her dinner and enjoyed it very much, so her father said.


About 10 a.m. a large Man-of-War passed near us, on the way to Portland. We dipped our Ensign & she returned the compliment. As she was passing I fired a shot at a gull. They thought we were saluting them, so they returned the compliment by firing 3 guns.


After dinner, the Doctor and I were having a doze on the poop, when J.S. called us to see a large Shark. On going aft I saw the monster & rushed below to get my gun, & was soon on deck again, loading both barrels with No. 1 shot cartridges, the largest I have. The Shark was still there following the ship, close to the rudder, sailing along near the surface, with his back-fin out of the water. I fired both barrels, at close range but doubt if much damage was done. The brute gave a great flap of the tail& disappeared to be seen no more. The Capn said he had never seen such a large shark in the English Channel, this one seemed about 9ft long and very fat. Any way the sailors were pleased to be clear of him, for they have a superstitious dread of sharks following their ship. No doubt the recent hot weather brought him so far North.


Spent some time writing letters to send by the Channel Pilot. He had quite a bag full. Mr Stanton the Pilot left us this afternoon. We hoisted a signal for a boat. One soon put out for him. Someone remarked that he would sink her; he is such a tremendous fellow - 25 stone at least.


We stayed up on deck to get a last look at "Old England". Start Point is the last we expect to see of England unless we get a head wind. We are on our own hook now, all connection with the land is cut off. They count this as the Starting point.


Turned in at 10 p.m.


Wednesday June 26


Got up 8.30. Surprised to find nice fresh fish for breakfast, it seems the Mate was able to get them from a passing Smack. Eddystone Light was in sight after the Pilot left us last night. We are now well out into the "Chops of the Channel" making for the Bay of Biscay. The wind is freshening & Sea not so calm as it has been since we left London. The Captn is indisposed & not able to leave his cabin.


Heard some big guns in the distance, some Man of War at practice I expect.


I forgot to say that when we were off Portland Bill we saw a Fleet of Ironclads at anchor in the distance & the fort on the Bill.


This evening John & I walked 80 lengths of the poop - 1 mile, & had some jumping etc. Wind right aft today, going along better.


This is the first day the officers have had charge of the ship.


Days out 1

Date 26 June

Course WSW

Lat / Long Start Point

Dist done 12

Prevailing Wind NE by E


The day is taken 12 to 12 o'clock noon. It was not till night that the breeze sprang up.


9 o'clock bed.


Thursday 27th June


Rose 8 o'clock.


Glorious morning. Sun so hot an awning was fixed over poop deck, greatly to our comfort.


Captain still ill. Good job we have a good Mate to take charge of the ship. Mr Alexander understands his work thoroughly. Had first shower of rain since we started, only very slight though.


3.50 p.m. A storm came up which soon knocked us up. We have not been bad before. We almost thought Neptune was going to let us off but we soon found we were mistaken; we were all very sick before night.


I quite enjoyed it at first. The ship was hurdle jumping in fine style, but it was not long before I wanted her to have a flat race instead.


In about 15 minutes the Forecastle & main were soaked with water. Wave after wave broke over her & drenched the sailors & passengers up forward. We thought we were safe on the poop. I was sitting on the rail holding on by the boat Davit when a wave came over and drenched me. I went down and changed my things & put my Water proof and jack boots on.


I had not been on deck many minutes when the Dr made a furious rush for the side, with his hat in one hand, pocket handkerchief in the other & very gracefully fed the fishes. John and I nearly died with laughing at him, but our laugh did not last long. John went first, I had a good laugh at him too. I had to go next, but they were too bad to laugh at me.


The Mate only calls a it "stiff breeze". I thought it was a gale of wind. Anyway it was necessary to shorten sail. Going aloft to take in the sails right at the top of the masts seemed a desperate job to me, as the masts were leaning out over the sea, but it was child's play to the sailors. The Ship was easier with some of the sails taken in. She did not heel over so much, but raced along at a great pace. I really thought at first she would blow right over, or plunge under the rising waves, but I soon gained confidence in the good old Ann Duthie's sea worthiness, as she righted herself time after time, & jumped high over waves instead of dipping her nose right under.


The Doctor was not over pleased when I showed him the sketch I made of his performance. Says I have taken liberties with his anatomy & his wardrobe. Had I known how soon I should follow the Dr's example my amusement would have been less. It was not long before all the passengers suffered from "the up and down motion one gets on the ocean". I found great difficult in getting down to my cabin, for it was a new experience to walk on a deck, never in the same place two seconds. The Steward came along to see what could be done for us, but no tea or Supper was wanted. A dry biscuit and a drink of plain water was all we could face.


At last we got into our bunks all right & I got to sleep 10 p.m.


Days out 2

Course WSW

Lat 48.50

Long 7.1

Dist done in the day 90

Prevailing Wind Westerly


Friday 28th June


Didn't get up to breakfast, had a picking of fowl & a cup of coffee in bed. Got up, had dinner & tea on deck. Felt very bad, too bad to take notes. John is best.


Days out 3

Course WSW

Lat 46.33

Long 8.50

Distance 190

Prevailing Wind Westerly

Bay of Biscay


Saturday 29th June


Still bad, meals on deck, no notes, better towards night. Practiced some hymns for the service on Sunday. Still in the Bay of Biscay. I wonder if it was ever calm.


Signalled to a steamer. Asked her to report us "all well" at Lloyds. Saw another homeward bound steamer.


Bed 9.30 p.m.


Days out 4

Course WSW

Lat 45.13

Long 8.47

Distance 96

Prevailing Wind Westerly


Sunday 30th June


Sea still rough, very bad, wretched, miserable, half dead, etc, etc. Breakfast in bed.


Had our first sheep killed & first Bread baked. They said they were very good, but I was too bad to notice. The very sight of provisions made me feel ill.


No service came off; passengers all bad. Captain ill as well though not sea sick. All worse this afternoon if possible. Had a shower or two of rain.


Still in the Bay of Biscay. Wish we could get out of it, we get such bad winds.


Days out 5

Course SW by W

Lat 44.46

Long 10.18

Distance 131

Prevailing Wind Westerly


Monday 1st July


I got up 8.30 this morning feeling much better, so went into the Saloon for breakfast, at which meal some mutton chops appeared. I tackled one and thoroughly enjoyed it, so feel sure I have my "sea legs" now. J.S. has already appeared at meals & the Dr. came in saloon to dinner.


Mrs Paul has not been ill at all. She seems as hard as nails, but her daughters have been very bad.


Weather very cold, not clear of the Bay of Biscay yet, hope to be soon.


Signalled a Barque on our Starboard quarter, asked her to report us "all well" at Lloyds.


Saw a shoal of porpoise. Had some bottled Ale for supper & found it very good. Bed at 9.30.


Days out 6

Course SW by W

Lat 43.25

Long 11.59

Distance 108

Prevailing Wind Westerly


Tuesday 2nd July


Got up 8 a.m. Walked 2 miles around poop deck (38 times = 1 mile) before breakfast, & enjoyed that meal again. We have three lady passengers in the saloon a Mrs P & her daughters. Have seen nothing of them since the rough weather until they turned up in the saloon to dinner, they say they are now getting their "sea legs" too.


John tinkering away at cabins as usual all morning. Weather showery. More favourable wind blowing. We are beginning to spank along nw goinfg about 10 knots an hour (2000 yds to knot). Will, Mr Alexander & I had some revolver practice. John has just told me what he has put in his diary about it. But of course we know how to Discount what he says. Our target was an empty Ale bottle, dragged by about 15 to 20 yards of string in the wake of the Ship, & dancing about like wild fire. So it was no easy matter to hit it, with a revolver, & the ship rocking.. After about 6 shots each at the outside (out of which we had very close shaves) we got a sailor to hang it on the end of the 'Spanker Boom". John says after countless shots the Dr smashed it (that is in his diary). But in his note book it says the Dr smashed it the 1st shot, but we always have to allow for exaggeration.


Flocks of Stormy Petrels or Mother Carey's Chickens, flying round the ship. Interesting birds, said to be the smallest of all birds with webbed feet. Not much larger than a Swallow, in clour black, with a white patch near the tail. They have the habit of walking or running on the water. The Bo'sun told me they are often caught by paying out a reel of cotton in the wind, carried out by a small piece of paper tied to the end. I tried this for a long time but did not secure any. One did get a wing entangled but managed to escape before I could haul it in.


At night we played games. I played bezique with Mrs Paul. Will played Chip with Miss Paul. John writing at his book.


Bed 10 o'clock.


Days out 7

Course SW by W

Lat 41.19

Long 13.2

Distance 137

Prevailing Wind Northerly


Wednesday 3rd July


Got up 8 a.m. No fiddles for breakfast, first time we have had a meal without them since the storm. N.B. fiddles are wooden arrangements that fit on the table to keep the plates & dishes from slipping about. We have had some lively scenes with the soup, tea, coffee, etc, etc. Sea calmer. Had the awning up again.


The Mate showed me how to take the attitude of the Sun & find out where we are.


Opened our lime juice, found it very refreshing. Today is the day the sailors have it. Every captain is obliged to serve out lime juice to the crew when they have been out of port 10 days.


We find that some of our stores have gone. The jam & tinned fruit were near the port hole. When the sailors wash the side I expect they help themselves. There are 4 tins of apples & 1 tin of pineapple gone; very much vexed about it.


The Captain is better today, but does not come to meals yet.


Days out 8

Course SW by W

Lat 38.50

Long 13.24

Distance 169

Prevailing Wind Northerly


Thursday 4th July


Got up 8 a.m. Captain better & to meals. Sail on the port bow, outward bound, passed her. About 100 miles West of the straights of Gibraltar.


Made some darts with penholders, needles & paper, & nailed two pieces of board together for a target. It's a very good game for passing time. The Captain, John, Will & I played. Captain the best shot.


A Swallow rested on the Ship this afternoon, almost dead with fatigue.


Choir started for next Sunday's Church Service & practiced hymns in the Saloon. Miss Paul at the piano. Several of the 2nd Class passengers are musical & were glad to join.


Had a "blow out" at night in our cabin. Bottle Ale, Lemonade, Cheese & Biscuits, then went up on deck for a walk. Full moon. Light so strong it was possible to read small print on deck at mid-night.


Turned in 11.45 p.m.


Days out 9

Course SW by W

Lat 37.1

Long 14.56

Distance 131

Prevailing Wind North East


Friday 5th July


Got up 8 a.m. After breakfast Will & wrote up our "Logs".


A sailor caught the Swallow & gave to me. I gave him water and caught some flies and tried to feed it, but it was too far gone, & died in a short time. After dinner I skinned him, I never saw such a miserable bird, nothing but bones. It must have been flying for days, out of its course.


Sun very hot. Amused ourselves by reading until tea time. After tea we made some "Athletic Sports". High Jump, Long Jump, Hand over hand up a rope etc till dark. Then we went below & had a "choir" practice. Afterwards Will played Bezique with Miss Linda Paul & Mrs & Mrs Paul taught John & I a new game at cards called "Boston", rather a good game, played till 9.30 p.m. then John Will & went on deck for a stroll. Glorious night, moonlight and starry. Turned in 11 p.m.


Days out 10

Course SW by W

Lat 36.6

Long 16.34

Distance 144

Prevailing Wind NE trades


Saturday 6th July


Got up 7.30 a.m. Had salt water sponge bath.


Captn said at breakfast we were about 50 miles from the island of Madeira & might get a sight of it, but it was too hazy in distance, we passed without seeing it.


When the weather is suitable, our Pigs, Sheep, Ducks, Turkeys & Geese are let out for exercise on Saturday mornings on the main deck. The poor chickens are not allowed this treat, they are too active, would soon be overboard. It's grand to watch the sailors pig hunting. The pigs don't half like to be put back into their pens. They always make a fight on it & they don't make any row.


Got the awning up again. Sun very hot. The sea looks lovely this morning. Lots of breakers about and such a beautiful bright blue colour. It's the sky that makes the sea so blue.


Yankee schooner overtaken close to, I had time to make a hasty sketch.


Athletic sports this afternoon. "Tug of War", then we had some jumping, climbing, etc. Choir practice at night.


Will, John & I played three handed Whist until 1.30 a.m. then made a cup of splendid coffee & retired to rest.


Days out 11

Course SW by W

Lat 32.45

Long 18.24

Distance 170

Prevailing Wind NE Ts


Sunday 7th July


Rose at 8 a.m.


Saw Flying Fish for the first time.


I thought they were birds at first, but when they went in the water I saw that they were fish. They have a miserable time of it poor beggars. When they are in the water they are chased and eaten by the Dolphin, porpoises, etc, then when they fly they are caught by the Sea Gulls, albatross, etc. It's almost a wonder there are any left, but they seem to be very plentiful. We have seen shoals and shoals of them. They vary in size from 6 in to 18 in & longer. They are dark green on the back & white underneath. Very delicate eating, I believe. That is why they are so much chased.


Sea rather rough. The 2nd Mate left his port hole open. When he wnet in his cabin this afternoon he found it about half full of water & his bed clothes soaked.


3.30 p.m. Church service in the saloon. Will was parson. We had the evening service & a sermon read by the Doctor. Hymns included "For those in Peril on the Sea", which was very popular. Attended by all passengers & most of crew.


Sundays at sea are rather queer they don't seem much like Sundays.


Days out 12

Course SW by W

Lat 30.2

Long 20.48

Distance 208

Prevailing Wind NE Ts


Monday 8th July


Got up 8 a.m. Sea rough, sky cloudy.


Lots more flying fish, some making only short flights, others carrying on half a mile or so. They vary in size, & look like whiting with wings. One flew on board in the night, it struck the 2nd Mate, who was standing near the Binnacle light. This fish was cooked for breakfast & there was just a taste for each one in the saloon. Tasted like Whiting. They are caught by fishermen & sold in the West Indian markets as a great delicacy. It is likely we shall get some more while in the tropics. The officers say numbers often fly on board in the night attracted by the side lights.


3 p.m. Sea very rough, ship rolling very much. We are between "The Canaries" and Cape Verde islands.


Had a very exciting game at dart. John made 233 points & I made 232 points.


John & I went forward & got "Chawked" as the sailors call it. Thais you have to pay your footing for the "Forecastle" when you are up. They make a chawk line in front of the steps, which a you can't come down until you have paid for a bottle of Rum. We can go on the Forecastle now whenever we like. There will be another bottle of Rum to be paid for when they catch us up in the rigging.


Played three handed whist till 11 p.m. then made some proper "Cocoa" & had some figs. Rather a fancy mixture but we couldn't get better at that time of night. Went up on deck for a stroll and retired at 12 p.m.


Days out 13

Course SW by W

Lat 26.28

Long 22.43

Distance 230 miles

Prevailing Wind NE Ts


Tuesday 9th July


Got up 8 a.m. Will caught a Flying fish, gave it to "Maggie" one of Mrs Cot's children. Played at dart. John made 377 points, I made 489. I managed to beat him today, we are always very close.


Entered the Tropics. Sun quite vertical but not visible. Very hot, especially down below.


After tea we amused ourselves with fencing and dumbbell exercise. Had a game of Whist, the Captain & John played Will & I. Very close game, they won the rub.


Had some supper, then went on deck to get cool. Turned in 11 p.m.


Days out 14

Course SW by S

Lat 22.35

Long 24.26

Distance 210

Prevailing Wind NE Ts


Wednesday July 10


Got up 6 a.m. & had our first bath after this fashion.


A soon as I got into the tub Mr Alexander surprised my by heaving a bucket or two of water on my head.


Baths can only be taken in Sea water, fresh is far too scarce. So far we have had to manage with a sponge in our cabins, until the Mate said he had found a large empty cask which he would have filled early in the morning so that we can get a dip and a shower bath. This was a great improvement & much enjoyed.


About 6.30 a.m. I made some Coffee, took a cup up to Mr Alex. who was on watch on deck.


After we had had our bath Will & John went to bed & I went a walk on deck. They overslept themselves & got late for breakfast.


Saw a homeward bound vessel this morning, about 8 miles off, too far for us to signal.


Writing logs this morning. Very hot. Will & I have our calico shirts on & find it too hot. The awning is very useful this weather.


113 miles off "Cape Verde Islands". This morning I gave the cat some condensed milk which did not agree with him. He went straight into the Captain's cabin and vomited in his berth. I nearly killed myself of laughing when I heard of it, but I don't think the Captain saw the joke. I don't think I have mentioned that we have a cat on board before. He belongs to the Steward. A very nice cat, black & white, quite a pet.


Had a shower of rain this evening. Miss Paul & the Captain played John & I at whist this evening. Won a game each.


10.30 p.m. bed.


Days out 15

Course SW by S

Lat 19.2

Long 25.29

Distance 212

Prevailing Wind NE Ts


Thursday 11th July


Got up 6 a.m. Bath same as yesterday morning. After the bath Will went to bed & John & I walked 80 lengths of the poop = 1 mile then had a game of dart until breakfast time.


2 pigs died this morning & one yesterday. The doctor opened one to see what caused his death. The verdict was "pulmonary apoplexy". Will says they must have taken cold. It's rather a loss to our farm yard.


Saw more flying fish. Fished for dolphin but without success.


Went forward this evening & watched the sailors play "Monkey" rather a curious game. Consists chiefly of thrashing one another with knotted towels. Then John & I went into the Bo'sun's Cabin, took ½ bottle of Brandy with us which soon brought out some yarns. He has been a great fisherman in his time. He says he caught a fish weighing 300lb in Sydney Harbour. Sydney is a grand place (for) fishing according to him, & he span some yarns about fights with "Chinese Pirates" etc.


Glorious night calm & moonlight. Watched sailors dance a Quadrille. They made rather a funny dance of it.


Days out 16

Course SW by S

Lat 16.5

Long 26.26

Distance 140

Prevailing Wind NE getting light


Friday 12th July


Got up 6 a.m. Had our Bath & went to bed again & got (up) late for breakfast. Mr Alexander saw some sharks in the night but did not think it worthwhile calling us to see them. Sun frightfully hot, hottest day we have had. John very bad all morning, Seawater Bath too strong for him. Slept all afternoon.


After tea, Tug of War, Darts. Tried to dance a Quadrille made rather a mess of it without music.


7 p.m. Choir practice. Went to sailors concert on Forecastle, some of them sing very well. They manage to enjoy themselves; there is always some fun going on in the Forecastle.


Played cards on deck by moonlight. 11 p.m. turned in.


Days out 17

Course SSW

Lat 15.25

Long 26.56

Distance 82

Prevailing Wind getting variable


Saturday 13th July


Got up 7.30 a.m. bath. Yankee Schooner on Starboard Bow homeward bound, about 6 miles off. Weather fine &Hot.


Fished for Dolphin. Got the line off the Mate. The Bo'sun gave us the hook baited with cotton rags like the sketch. This is all the bait that is required. This fishing is not a very safe job for passengers, but as it was calm, I did venture out part way on the bowsprit, caught nothing for the ship was moving too slowly. The tackle is simple. The old Bo'sun made the line & told me how to proceed. A good stout line is required, about 20 yards long, a good lay & Cod hook at one end, and some white cotton rag cut in strips, tied on above the hook. This bait is worked along on the top of the water & jumped from wave to wave. The object being to represent a flying fish. I got tired of catching nothing & moved back on the fo'castle, where I made a sketch of the others fishing.


A sailor caught a Bonito about 12 lbs weight this morning & they had a great fry up for breakfast in the fo'castle. The Mate tells me they are practically uneatable, like very tough beef soaked in rancid oil. However, the sailors managed to get it down.


Main deck turned into a farm yard again. Sheep, pigs & geese all about. The sheep are very tame, feed them with biscuits. They seemed very thirsty so I took one of them a Glass of water & he drank it like a Christian. I never saw sheep drink before. Had a game at Koites.


Will & I lay in a furled sail on the Bowsprit nearly all morning, with nothing but cotton trousers & shirt on. Sun very hot.


1.30. Sailors had a bath. They got in the tub (with their clothes on) & had hose played on them then they change their clothes & lay the wet ones out to dry.


3 p.m. Sail on port Beam going West.


Days out 18

Course S by W

Lat 13.54

Long 26.57

Distance 100

Prevailing Wind Variable


Sunday 14th July


Got up 7.30 a.m. Had sponge bath. 2 sails on Starboard Bow, homeward bound, too far off to signal. Read part of sermon by George Dawson. John has a book of sermons by G Dawson. WKK made him a present of it when he left Walsall.


Lay in the Gig most of the morning, with a rag stretched over to make a tent, reading.


Showed our Albums to 2 class passengers in the "Starboard Alley" & Mrs Paul, Misses Paul & Captain. Gave the Captain one of my photos. He promised to give me one of his when he gets to Sydney.


Sun very hot indeed, if it was not for the wind we should get Baked. Convinced the 2nd Class passengers that I am not the Dr's brother, everyone on board has taken me for the Dr's brother.


After dinner John & I sat on Fo'castle talking to Mr "Sails" alias Sailmaker. He was spinning yarns about old sea customs "riding the dead horse" & "Neptune" etc.


Main water tank tapped. A noteworthy event, because so far we have been using water from tanks carried on deck which for some time has been unpleasantly warm. The Mate called me into his cabin & asked if I would like a drink of real cold water. I was very surprised to get one & called the others at once. It was really a treat. This main tank is down at the bottom of the ship & will keep cool all through the tropics.


4 p.m. Service on poop, the Dr still keeps the office of parson. He read us a sermon today. The service was better attended than last Sunday, a good many of the sailors came.


After tea we sang Sankey's hymns with the sailors till dusk.


Saw another sail homeward bound. Bed 10.30 p.m.


Days out 19

Course SW by S

Lat 12.25

Long 27.17

Distance 90

Wind Variable


Monday 15th July


Got up 7.30 a.m.


Had a good deal of rain in the night. Last night part of John's bunk came to grief. It rather surprised me, I was asleep underneath when two or three boards came tumbling on top of my head. John had to get out and sleep on the floor for the rest of the night.


"About ship" (= making a tack) this morning. Sea rather rough. Fiddles on the table again. Sail on Starboard Bow.


Had a game of Whist under difficulties this afternoon. Will & I played Mr Cot & Mr Hillier on Top of the Deck house. The cards were in constant danger of being blown overboard. Had one of the best hands I have ever had, 7 trumps including all four honors & some good playing cards. Unfortunately we did not play out because we were in the 8 ?holes. Will had very bad hands this afternoon.


After tea we took the Single Sticks forward and set the sailors to work. Some of them fence very well. One fellow got his forehead cut, he was the only one that got hurt. At dusk 7pm they commenced songs and dances, we were there till 8.30 when we saw a squall coming on the Star'bd Beam. It looked like a black line on the sea towards the horizon with dark cloud above it.


There was a fine breeze blowing. We were scudding along under full spread of canvas when the Catain sang out "Stand by to let go the Royal Halyards". The men stood with the Halyards in their hands ready to let go the moment the squall strikes her, if it is too much ofr her to stand with all sails set. (The Royals are top sails on all the masts except the Sky sail, which had been taken in before).


John & I went below took our shoes and stockings off put on our oilskins & Sou'westers rolled our trousers up to our knees & went on deck ready for the squall. Will went to bed. In about five minutes it struck her but not very furiously. It lasted about ten minutes, it was not strong enough to make us take in more sail. I wish it had come behind us, it would have made Anne Duthie go like a race horse. As it was we went 11 knots. The wind caught her sideways, nautically "on her Star'bd Beam" . The rain came down sweetly and washed our feet


This is about the style we healed over when the wind caught us. The figure is supposed to be the officer of the watch, they have a nice time of it on a night like this.


Turned in 10 p.m.


Days out 20

Course WSW

Lat 11.25

Long 28.26

Distance 64

Wind Southerly


Tuesday 16th July


Got up 8 a.m. Put a bottle of water overboard to try & cool it. Sunk it about 10 yards & let it stay down some time. When we hauled it up it was as warm as before. Will reading to Mrs and Miss Pauls all morning.


Steamer on port quarter, bound from Cape Verde Islands to Brazil.


1 p.m. another squall, wind & rain, we are just in a squally part now. "About Ship".


3 p.m. Raining very hard a proper tropical shower. Put on Jack boots, oilskins & Sou'wester & went on deck. J.S. ditto. Will did the opposite. He took all his clothes off, but a Holland Jacket & trousers, & had a jolly good swill.


Very heavy tropical rain fell for some hours. From poop, deck-houses, & Fo'castle head, fresh water soon poured in torrents. All hands set to work passing buckets, we soon filled the water tanks on deck, so we now have as much fresh water as we started off with, but for drinking that caught today will be no use. It will be useful for other purposes. In collecting the rain-water we all managed to get a very good fresh-water bath & feel all the better for getting the salt washed out of our skins; not had a good fresh-water bath since leaving London.


Dark night. All voyagers through tropical seas have seen the wonderful effects of Phosphorescence in the water. We are now in the thick of it, a bucket of sea-water thrown across the deck in the dark is a sight worth seeing, it appears to contain hundreds of very bright glow worms. The wake of our ship is aglow with phosphorescent light & the same at the bows, each time we strike a wave. John and I were sitting in the bow when the ship struck a wave we could see the time by our watches. It was beautiful like thousands of stars dancing about & every now & then there would be a large flash.


Bed 9.30 p.m.


Days out 21

Course South

Lat 9.55

Long 27.5

Distance 93

Wind Southerly


Wednesday 17th July


Got up 7.30. At breakfast time a sailor caught a "Bineta" wighing about 9 lbs, it's a very pretty fish of a pinlish colour it feeds on flying fish. They are caught with the same bait as Dolphin, some white rag tied on a hook, only they are caught off the Bowsprit & the bait has to be jumped from wave to wave like a flying fish. There soon were a lot of lines hanging from the Bowsprit but no more were caught.


The sketch is supposed to show sailors "Bineta" fishingon the Bowsprit. I went on the Gibboon & saw a lot of fish but they would not bite again.


Wrote up my log. Tried fishing again this afternoon with the same success.


Played whist on deck house. Had a shower of rain.


Days out 22

Course SE ½ E

Lat 8.25

Long 26.32

Distance 111 miles

Wind Southerly


Thursday 18th July


Got up 7.30 a.m. Find it's Lissie's birthday to-day wish her many many "Happy returns".


The mate came into our cabin 7.30 a.m. & told us there was a ship in sight which would pass quite close to us & that there were going to ask them to take letters home for us. So I jumped out of bed in double quick time & wrote a letter to Papa & Mama. Before I had written many lines John came in and told me that it would not stop for our letters so it was a false alarm. There was a strong wind blowing it would have been a waste of time for her to stop.


Raining tropically all morning. John & I fell in line with the sailors & passed buckets of rain water forward. We soon collected a tank full. Then we carried some fowls from one pen to another. Their pens were cleaned out this morning. One poor hen got blown overboard, through its own stupidity, it tried to fly on the Bulwark. But the wind was too strojng for it so over it went.


The geese enjoyed themselves. They were let out & all the scuppers on the Lee side stopped up so there was soon a pool of water about a foot deep. They did enjoy it, it was the first water they have been in since we left dock.


Storm lasted all day. Got wet to the skin altho I had my oilskin on.


Had some plumb pudding in honour of Lissie's birthday. Drank her health at night in Limejuice. Will managed to empty his glass into his bunk which made him rather uncomfortable.


Played "Muggin's Goose" with Captain & Pauls & three handed whist by ourselves after. Bed 10 p.m.


Days out 23

Course E ½ S

Lat 6.46

Long 22.9

Distance 220

Wind variable


Friday 19th July


Got up 7 a.m. New bath this morning, much better than the cask we had at first.


The ship gave a lurch just as Will got in & sent him spinning to the other side of the deck.


Had a choir practice. Went 160 miles only made 15 miles.


Days out 24

Course West

Lat no sun

Long

Distance

Wind variable


Saturday 20th July


Got up 8 a.m. Fished for Bineta but caught none. Straw hat blown overboard. Writing log.


Fenced with "Scottie" from 4 p.m. to 5.30. Fenced after tea.


John & I went to Fo'castle at night, heard some songs, then played whist in Saloon. Bed 11 p.m.


Days out 25

Course W by S ½ S

Lat 5.39

Long 23.24

Distance 120

Wind South


Sunday 21st July


8 a.m. Spent the morning in reading.


At 3 p.m. we signalled a Barque that crossed our bows. We ran up these flags HGCQ meaning that we are the "Anne Duthie".


Then she hauled up her name VCML. By looking in our signal book we found her name was "Edinburgh Castle" of Glasgow, 625 tons.


Then we hauled up BDPQ meaning "from London". She answered BNMK "from Astoria" (Nth Amera).


Next we hauled up BNCJ " to Sydney". She answered BGJS "to Cork".


Then we signalled "BQP" report us "All well" & "RSJ" "Thanks".


I have put in these flags just to show how ships signalled one another at sea. When this ship gets to Cork she will report us as "all well" at Lloyds.


Saw to other sails too far off to signal. It's good fun signalling, we always help the officer tie on the flags & haul them up, look in the book for meaning of flags, etc.


4 p.m. Service in Saloon, too windy on deck. Sermon on "Mizpah", very warm in the saloon during service.


Days out 26

Course WSW

Lat 4.16

Long 26.5

Distance 194

Wind SE Ts

First of south east Trades.


Monday 22nd July


Got up 8 a.m. Ship within ½ mile, signal'd "The Carmels" Barque from "Iquique" to "New York". Beneta fishing, no success.


My letter case blew overboard while on Bowsprit with the last letters I received from Alice & Lissie & W Checkley & a compass card. Not very valuable but I didn't like losing it. I lost my hat last time I went on the Bowsprit. Next time I go on I'll tie my hat on & take everything out of my pockets. Will lost his pillow overboard this morning too. He was sitting in the Fo'castle on his pillow, got up & forgot it was there, but wind didn't, it had it overboard in no time. It went off floating astern in fine style much to the amusement of passengers & crew.


A day of rejoicing with the sailors, the month for which they have already received their wages ends today. This month's work they call "Dead Horse". In future they work for money to come. The ceremony of "Riding the Dead Horse" is a very old one, & is not carried out on many ships these days, but Captain Hunter is a very good fellow & believes in allowing all the old customs which cause fun & entertainment for both crew & passengers. A small thing does this at sea.


For some days our men have been making, in their watch below, what they call a "Dead Horse". It is certain no one will mistake it for a live one. The body is made with old sacking stuffed with straw, etc., neck & head the same. The saddle is a sheep skin with wool on & tin cans strung around him. Mane & tail of tow. This fearsome contrivance is fixed to an old packing case. It was the funniest horse I ever saw. At 6.30 p.m. one of the sailors mounted him & the rest dragged him aft, singing. When they got opposite the poop ladder the "old man" dismounted & came up to the captain & span a yarn about a long ride he had had & that he was in debt & wanted to sell his horse etc etc but no one would bid for him. Wound up by saying he & his friends were sadly in need of liquid refreshment. On the Captn. promising this, in the shape of Rum, away went the sailors, with the rider again in the saddle So they went on with the proceedings towed him round to the lee side of the main deck & halued him up to the Foreyard arm, with the sailor on his back. Then they had 3 cheers for the Captn., 3 cheers for the Officers, 3 for passengers, & 3 groans for the "Dead Horse". It looked a desperate job, being swung out from the deck, over the sea & up the yard-arm, but it was nothing to worry a sailor. On reaching the yard-arm the old man cut away the "Dead Horse", it fell into the sea & went floating away astern. The rider came along the yard & down a stay to the deck, where he met with great applause. Grog was served out to all hands. The rest of the evening was spent in festivity, song, & dance.


Days out 27

Course WSW

Lat 2.54

Long 27.30W

Distance 180

Wind Southerly


Tuesday 23rd July


Got up 8.30 a.m. Rather unwell today got the wind.


An accident occurred which might have been serious. A boy was sent to do something to the main truck (the button at the top of the highest mast) he had to take it off, when he let it fall. By good luck the ship was heeling well over, so it fell clean into the sea. Had she been on an even keel, it would have fallen on deck. This truck is heavy enough to kill any person it fell on from such a great height. What a lecture this youth got from the Mate who was on duty. He wouldn't forget it in a hurry, for there was a punishment as well. The sentence was, no dinner today, but while the others dine he must work the hand pumps, also he must work this pump for 2 hours tonight in his watch below, when otherwise he would be asleep in his bunk. Crossed the Equator between 12 noon & 1 p.m. King Neptune has notified his intention of holding a court on board tomorrow at noon, to interview all persons who have not crossed "the line" before.


Heard Neptune hail the ship 12 p.m.


Days out 28

Course SW by S

Lat 0.4N

Long 29.0

Distance 200

Wind S Trades


Wednesday 24th July


Got up 8 a.m. Wrote up my log in the morning. The Sailmaker showed me how to make rope rings by a kind of plaiting process. We amused ourselves by making these until dinner time. Very fine day. Sea rather rough. Fiddles on table. The sailors commenced making preparations to receive "Neptune" this morning. He was to arrive with his court at 2 p.m. They put up a sail between the deck house & Starboard bulwark then filled it with water.


Soon after 2 p.m. "Neptune" made his appearance on the Fo'castle with his wife on his arm & his court in the rear, they came marching aft, halted in front of the poop. Neptune hailed the Captain & said he believed there were some passengers aboard who had never passed through his domains before & he would be pleased to see the list of passengers. So the Mate gave him the list. Then there was a kind of court held. We were all judged in turn & sentenced to be shaved or pay the fine (2 bottles of rum), all the passengers paid the fine.


Then Neptune aid there were three sailor lads & the cook's mate who could not pay the fine, so they were going to shave them, & on the court moved to the sail filled with water. Then the policemen brought one of the lads with his hands tied behind him before Neptune, who asked him one or two questions, then passed him on to the Dr who felt his pulse & prescribed a pill & some physic for him. After he had had it crammed down his throat Neptune ordered him to be shaved. Then the Barber came forward, & the latherer, & commenced operations.


They sat the victim on a cask against the Sail of water. Then the bears got into the water; the bears are two sailors dressed like bears whose duty it is to knock the fellows about in the water after they have been shaved.


Then the latherer lathered away at his face, head, ears, & neck for about 5 minutes, taking care to put as much of the lather into his mouth, eyes and ears as he could. After that the Barber scraped his head all over with a great wooden razor (I have kept the razor for a curiosity). Then they upset him into the water backwards & the bears about half drowned him before he could get out of the sail.


Then they put the Cook's mate through he same ordeal. I think they make it a little warmer for him.


The next lad to be shaved could not be found. The policemen hunted all over the ship for him. At last they saw him aloft in the main top, so two policemen mounted at once & caught him after a short chase. They let him down to the deck by a rope fastened round his body. He got it all the worse for running away.


After the next lad had been shaved, they shaved the latherer, the Barber, & Mrs Neptune. That was the end of the shaving. They came back to the poop and thanked the Captain for letting them come aboard & had 3 cheers for the Captain, 3 cheers for the saloon passengers, 3 cheers for the 1st Officer, 3 cheers for Mrs Neptune. The dresses were well got up considering the materials they had got. Neptune's crown was cut out of a tin box & his trident was a broom stick with a tin head.


The court consisted of:


King Neptune & his wife Queen Amphitrite (the Heligolander & the young Swede)

The Doctor (the Cook)

The Dr's assistant (Scottie)

The Barber (the Irishman)

The Latherer (Dennie)

3 Policemen (Long Tom, the Russian & the Australian)

2 Bears (the Jersey Irishman & Geordie)


The lather was fine stuff. It was made of: pea soup, soot, tar greese, oatmeal, paint, etc, etc.


About half an hour after the Shaving Neptune's Band paraded the deck. The band was a sight. There were about six tin whistles and flutes (two passengers played the flutes). The banjo was the most remarkable instrument: a wash hand bowl and lead melter with twin strings. The big drum was an old potato tin & the kettle drum was a meat tin. We could manage to distinguish some of the tunes they tried to play. At night grog was served out to them & they were generally merry.


Days out 29

Course South W

Lat 3o 33'

Long 30o 36'

Distance 230

Wind SE


Got the South East Trades


Thursday 25th July


Got up 8.20. Fine day. 150 miles due East of Cape Branco North of Pernambuco. Commenced a letter to Papa & mama, Alice & Lizzie. The Dr's bed got soaked with sea water through leaving his port open. Turned out squally, we are healing over a great deal.


Dr's got rheumatics today. After I had been in my bunk about five minutes, the ship gave a tremendous lurch, almost sent me out, not quite. But it un-shipped 2 boxes of cartridges from the shelf above my bunk & dropped them on my feet & made me run my foot against an open pocket knife someone had left on the bed. It cut into one of the veins in my foot which bled a good deal. The Dr bandaged it up.


Then we had to rig up some side boards to keep us in bed. Got into bed a 2nd time & was asleep in no time.


Days out 30

Course SW by S

Lat 6o 40'

Long 31o 57'

Distance 190

Wind SE


Friday 26th July


Got up 8 a.m. John & I spent all morning straightening the cabins, getting things lashed for the rough weather. Sail on the Starboard quarter; homeward bound. Carpenter fixed proper side boards to the bunks. Played cards at night. Bed 10.30 p.m.


Days out 31

Course SW by S

Lat 8o 47'

Long 33o 47'

Distance 210

Wind SE


Saturday 27th July


Got up 8 a.m. Deck turned into a farm yard as usual on Saturday mornings. Pigs getting much fatter.


Will & I sat on the Fo'castle looking for fish but didn't see any. Played whist at night. Boiled some eggs for supper, found them rather stale. They tasted of the grease they are packed in.


One of our cabin chairs got torn (the seat of it) and we got the Sailmaker to put a new seat in it , a canvas one, & tossed up who should have it. I won it.


Will & walked 20 times round the main deck after dark. Much to the risk to our necks. Some of the folks forward tried to upset us by putting buckets, casks, coils of rope about the deck, and stretching ropes across, but we managed to steer clear & do our 20 rounds. Bed 9 p.m.


Days out 32

Course SSW

Lat 12o 29'

Long 35o 58'

Distance 248

Wind SE


Sunday 28th July


Got up 8.15 a.m. Saw two Barques, one on Port Beam, the other on starboard quarter, outward bound.


Service on poop at 4 p.m. at which the cat made itself rather conspicuous. After tea Will & I went into the Fo'castle with some of the 2nd passengers and sang Sankeys hymns with the sailors. John was singing in the Saloon with the Pauls.


Saw lights of a steamer 10 p.m. 11 p.m. bed.


Days out 33

Course S by W

Lat 15o 24'

Long 36o 38'

Distance 178

Wind Var.


Monday 29th July


Got up 8.15 a.m. Measured main deck to see how many times round to a mile, found it to be exactly 22 rounds. 25 ft a round.


They began to put the "Ann Duthie"'s winter clothes on this morning. That is get her strongest sails up ready for foul weather. So far we have used light summer canvas which is being replaced with much stouter, in readiness for gales further south. Played Whist with Hillier, John & Will on the deck house this afternoon. Sail on Port Bow. Slight shower of rain. Bed 10 p.m.


Days out 34

Course S byW

Lat 17o 40'

Long 36o 47'

Distance 144

Wind Var.


Tuesday 30th July


Got up 8.15 a.m. Still changing sails. Sail on Starboard side homeward. 2 sails outward.


Will & I helped sailors moving sails, hauled them up, manned the winch, etc. We shall be sailors soon.


Many Cape Pigeons flying round & following the ship last few days. The Bo'sun suggested fishing for them but it is no use as we are travelling through the water too fast.


Will & I played whist in the Carpenter's house No 1 Starboard St. with Mr Chipps & Hillier till 8 o'clock when the order was given "all hands about Ship". We turned out with the rest, worked like niggers. We helped haul the Spanker Boom across first, then Will hauled tight the Mizzen Top Gallant Halyard & me the Mizzen Royal Halyard and then we manned the Capstan to haul in the "main brace" etc etc. It's good fun putting the ship about.


John Will & played a game of whist with the Captain. We are on the Starboard tack now. This is the tack that suits us - it keeps us in our bunks. Bed 11 p.m.


Days out 35

Course S by E

Lat 19o 42'

Long 38o 15'

Distance 145

Wind Var


Wednesday 31st July


Got up 8 a.m. Saw a whale at last. I saw something in the distance - the sailors said it was a whale. A shoal of turtles went by about 12 a.m.


Ship on Port Beam and Barque on Port Bow, overtaking both. The "Ann Duthie" has overtaken everything we have seen yet. Weather fine getting colder. The "Anne Duthie" has got her Complete Suit of Winter Clothes on now. We are ready for the storms (I mean the ship is, we don't want any).


Glorious sunset 5.30. Had an attack of indigestion at tea time and didn't appear at table. After tea walked a mile on the poop deck with John & Miss L Paul. Played whist.


Today is the first day we have had a light at tea. We get no twilight at all, it is dark a few minutes after the sun goes down. Bed 11.30 p.m.


Days out 36

Course S by E

Lat 20o 40'

Long 37o 24'

Distance 100

Wind Var


Thursday 1st August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Saw some Cape Pigeons. Ran down to fetch my gun but of course they disappeared when I came up. John put a line over with some meat on but they would not come near. They seem to know what a gun is.


Captain just told me that we are out of the tropics.


John & I scraped at the poop rail for about an hour this morning. They are scraping the paint off - it is going to be polished instead.


We overtook a ship in the night. She is hull down astern now. None of them can keep up with "Annie". Will lost his cap overboard this evening as we were helping take in the Spanker. Wind blowing hard. Walked a mile on poop. Played Muggins & Loo in the Saloon at night. Bed 11 p.m.


Days out 37

Course SSW

Lat 23o 36'

Long 38o 38'

Distance 190

Wind SW


Friday 2nd August


Got up 8.15 a.m. More Cape Pigeons about. John tried fishing for them but we were going too fast. I had two shots at them but missed. John employed from 11 a.m. till 5.30 p.m. winding wool for Miss Paul.


One of the pigs taken ill got foot & mouth disease or something like it, so they have put him by himself. Bed 10.20 p.m.


Days out 38

Course SW

Lat 26o 21'

Long 39o 17'

Distance 175

Wind SW


Saturday 3rd August


Got up 7 a.m. Will & had a bath on deck as usual. We have not had one for some time. W.G.S. has had Rheumatics found the bath rather cold. Weather getting much colder. After my bath I walked a mile around the main Deck.


Saw some Cape Pigeons before breakfast, so I fetched my gun & shot one. All the others flocked round it. The Captain said they were sympathising with it & were wishing that we would get a bad wind for a month. The mate said we could not have a worse than we have got.


Shot two more Cape Pigeons after Breakfast. Will had two shots but missed. He shot at them on the wing. I shot one of mine on the wing & two in the water.


Saw a shoal of porpoise playing around the Bow, but they all made off before I could get a shot at them.


The Cattle were not let out for their usual sun today - the weather is getting too cold.


The first Albatross was seen this afternoon. The 2nd Mate saw it while we were playing Whist in the Starboard St. He came to tell us but it had gone before he found us. I feel anxious to see one of these birds. The Bo'sun says he has seen them 16 ft from tip to tip of wings. He also says they are spirits of old sailors & firmly believes when he dies he will become an Albatross & spend the rest of time flying about the Southern seas.


A sail astern.


Walked a mile round the main deck with Young Pens (Primus). Glass very high. Captain is afraid of a sudden fall. If it does, we shall catch it, he says. Bed 10.30 p.m.


Days out 39

Course S

Lat 29o 31'

Long 39o 35'

Distance 156

Wind SW


Sunday 4th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Weather fine & cold. Service on poop as usual. Found it rather cold, kept our hats on. At night we talked over what we were going to do when we get to Sydney, but find we can do nothing until we get there and get our letters. Sunday is the day for looking at my photos & thinking of home. It seems quite an age already since we left Walsall.


Days out 40

Course S

Lat 31o 27'

Long 39o 29'

Distance 160

Wind E


Monday 5th August


Got up 8 a.m. Find it is "Bank Holiday", so we intend to make a holiday of it. A ship in sight on Starboard Bow.


After Breakfast we played marbles on main deck with Mr Cox & Hillier until nearly dinner time. Got a fair wind at last. Will shot a Cape Pigeon.


After Dinner we played Cricket till we were tired, knocked two balls overboard. The we played whist in the Starboard St till tea time. John & I played 2 handed whist in our cabin until 10 p.m., & Pauls, Captain & Will played Bezique in the Saloon. After that Will John & I finished up the holiday with Cribbage. Bed 11.30 p.m.


Days out 41

Course S

Lat 33o 39'

Long 38o 08'

Distance 172

Wind E


Tuesday 6th August


Got up 8 a.m. Signalled a ship before breakfast. Shot two more Cape Pigeons - there are lots of them about now. Wind right aft so the ship is level. Played marbles again.


2 more ships in sight one about 3 miles, the other quite close. She passed almost within speaking distance. We signalled her. She was a "Yankee" asked her to report us "all well". We could see the Captain's wife on the poop & waved hats & handkerchiefs to her. She waved her handkerchief to us. It would be nice if we could see ships every day so near. Saw 5 more ships this afternoon, making 8 we have seen today. We have never seen so many in one day before.


J.S. the Dr & I have become expert signallers & we find occupation & interest in helping the crew in various ways.


John and I spent the evening at our logs. Will played Bezique with Pauls & Captain. Went on deck at 10 p.m. Turned in 10.30 p.m.


Days out 42

Course S by E

Lat 35o 13'

Long 33o 44'

Distance 200

Wind N


Wednesday 7th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Saw some Whale Birds or Ice Birds, a sign of cold weather. Still a lot of Cape Pigeons about.


The poorly pig died today & was thrown overboard to the sharks. Barque in sight. Weather fine, sea rough. Bed 10.30.


Days out 43

Course S by E

Lat 36o 2'

Long 29o 40'

Distance 190

Wind NW


Thursday 8th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Lot more Ice birds about. Weather very cold & fine. We have made the best run today that we have ever made, viz 260 miles. We are getting on splendidly, every prospect of making a quick passage. The weather is favouring us too. No one on board has ever seen such a run of fine weather. Only one wet day in 7 weeks & not a real breeze of wind. Sea running very high. We rolled very much all day.


Fenced in the afternoon & played whist on the Main deck till she shipped a sea & cleared us out. We were shipping seas all about. A wave broke over the poop & soaked our berths, so we had to have our ports screwed up. It was a good job we did, for we had two or three more waves over the poop. We found it very stuffy in the cabins with the ports shut.


Played "Nap" after tea in the Saloon with Captain & Pauls.


Days out 44

Course S by E

Lat 36o 53'

Long ?

Distance ?

Wind ?


Friday 9th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Had breakfast under great difficulties. We were rolling worse than ever. It was fun to watch the things sliding about although the fiddles were on the table. We had our coffee in mugs instead of cups, but that did not prevent it from being upset. We dirty lots of table cloths. The soup gets upset nearly every day now we have got into rougher weather.


The Captain says these are nothing of rolls (we shall have rolls for breakfast till we get to Sydney). We must wait until she dips her yards in the water, then we shall think she is rolling.


Had some porridge for breakfast. It was very good, but it would have been better if we had had some fresh milk instead of condensed.


Had a heavy shower of rain this morning. First time the sailors have had their oilskins on for a month.


The first pig was killed this afternoon, in rather a funny fashion. The cook held the pig while the butcher stuck him. Then they poured boiling seawater over him and scraped him with a pot-lid. As I was coming aft, after seeing the pig slaughtered I met the Sailmaker alias "Sails" in Port St. He said now was the time to catch Cape Pigeons - we were going slowly & there were a lot about. So I fetched a line & got some fat pork off the Steward. In about five minutes I had the pleasure of hauling the first pigeon onboard. They are peculiar birds. As soon as you get them on deck they are "sea-sick". The 2nd Mate was near when I hooked him, so he tied a string round his throat as soon as he came aboard. John & Will were rather surprised when they saw it - they were below at the time. I hooked two or three more, but could not land them.


Saw a "Molly Hawk", that is a large black & white bird about 8 feet across the wings. It is the largest sea bird except the Albatross I believe.


Weather very cold. Spent the evening skinning the pigeon. I took its breast, back, feet, tail, wings & beak. My collection of curiosities is increasing. Before this I had only a swallow & a mouse.


Went on deck at 9 p.m. Tuned in at 10 p.m. Moonlight night, wind very light.


Saturday 10th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Fished for Cape Pigeons again but we were going too fast. One got entangled in John's line & was caught.


There are a tremendous lot of birds about today. Cape Pigeons, Whale birds, Ice birds, Black Bird, Molly Hawks, etc. John hooked a Molly Hawk, but he got off before he could land him. Weather colder.


In the afternoon another Molly Hawk carried my line away with him. I didn't try fishing after that. Hillier was shooting at them with his revolver so I fetched mine but we could not hit them. Then I got the gun. We had some good sport. I brought down 3 "Cape Hens" - they are birds a good deal larger than the Pigeon. They are nearly as large as a goose. The 2nd Mate wounded a couple & Hillier killed a Pigeon.


Uncle William's birthday.


Sunday 11th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. More birds about than ever this morning. They seem to know they are safe, they fly quite close. Weather fine & cold. The Captain got soaked this morning. He was standing under a break of the poop when a wave came over the side. Service at 4 p.m. as usual, in the Saloon, too cold to have it on deck.


After tea Will & I went in the Fo'castle & sand Moody & Sankey's hymns. The Mate told me we should sight an Island about midnight, so I asked him to call us if sighted before morning. About 12.30 he woke us up & said we could get a good view of it if we would come on deck. So I put on my Ulster & trousers & went on deck. John & the Dr were too sleepy & did not come. I could just see the dark outline of the island on the horizon. I didn't stay long on deck. I was in bed again in no time. The island was "Gough Island" a small island South of "Tristan da Cunha" 4000 feet above the sea.


Monday 12th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. I generally manage to get in time for breakfast although I only have 15 minutes to get a sponge Bath and dress. Still a lot of birds about. We were going too fast to fish for them, so I tried a new dodge. I made a small spear, something like this …


… and stood on the end of the poop throwing it at them all morning, but I only got one, one got entangled in the line. I managed to land him all right. It was a "Cape Pigeon". This afternoon John & I fished for birds. We did not catch any. It was fun to watch them try to catch the bait. They would see the Bait in the water and swoop down on it, but before they reached the water the meat would be skimming yards away. They looked very much surprised. We hooked two or three but we were going too fast to land them. It broke the hook off in their beaks or it pulled out of their mouths. At last a great big "Cape Goose" nailed my bait & went flying away with the whole line. After that Will & I shot a few Cape Hens & Pigeon. One or two nearly fell on deck. We were trying to shoot them so that they would drop on deck. We shot those that were flying to windward.


After that I helped the Mate varnish a seat on the poop. Spent the evening writing & playing cards. We find the evenings rather long now. It's dark at 5 p.m. Bed 11 p.m.


Tuesday 13th August


Rather late for breakfast this morning. Not so many birds about as usual. I tried my spear again but with no better success. Walked on the main deck 1 mile or two. Had 2 men in the saloon all day cleaning. Bed 10 p.m.


Wednesday 14th August


Got up 8 a.m. Less birds than ever. Fished but caught none. Tremendous lot of cleaning going on. We have had 2 men in the Saloon for a week & a lot more scraping all the varnish off the front of the poop, going to be re-varnished. Played round games all the evening, Nap, Loo, etc.


Thursday 15th August


All late for breakfast, didn't wake till second bell. I was last because I had to get my sponge bath. I never miss it now.


Helped the sailor scrape the front of the poop, then took "Maggie" for a walk. She is a very nice child. Very few birds. Fine.


Friday 16th August


All late for Breakfast. I did not wake from the time I went to bed till the second breakfast bell was ringing. Had a slight shower of rain this morning. Scraping still going on. Will & I played whist with Mr & Mrs Cox this morning in No 3 Starboard St. "Sails" saw an Albatross this morning. This is the second that has been seen, but I have not had the fortune to see one yet. We are in the Meridian of the "Cape of Good Hope" today.


Saturday 17th Aug


Got up 8 a.m. & had a walk before breakfast. Ship in sight on the Starboard beam about 8 miles off. Another Albatross seen this morning, but not by any of us. In the afternoon John and I had the pleasure of seeing an Albatross, but were surprised, because it was smaller than we expected. The ship in sight is supposed to be the "Hawkesbury". She left London 4 days before us, bound for Sydney. Captain awfully riled because she is gaining on us.


Sunday 18th August


Got up 8 a.m. Ship in sight. Strong wind rather squally. Service in Saloon as usual. Saw the first real Albatross. There seems to be a great difference of opinion about these birds. Some of the sailors call all the large birds Albatross. They are ugly birds, very large & got tremendous wings. The one we saw would be about 10 ft from tip to tip I should think. Some are Brown & some Grey. Sang hymns in evening. Bed 9.30 p.m.


Monday 19th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. A Storm came on this morning. There had been a good deal of snow - I mean wind (Will was reading to the Pauls about snow) - during the night. She Skysail Staysails & Royals had been furled all night. About 12 a.m. the wind blew stronger & the barometer fell so all hands were called to shorten sail. All the rest of the day we were scudding along under reefed Topsails, Main Staysail & Foresail. All the other sails were furled. Rained all afternoon.


Had good sport fishing. John & I put on our Sou'westers, Mackintoshes & Jack Boots, & fished all afternoon. John caught 3 Cape Pigeons & I caught 6. Its good fun landing them, as soon as they have taken the bait they raise & spread out their wings. It's just like pulling in a kite. Sometimes you can bring them right on to the deck without them touching the water. Got wet through. My Mackintosh soon gets wet through. It's very miserable to get things wet at sea, there is no fire to dry them by. We could do a fire this cold weather. Bed 10.30.


Tuesday 20th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Fished for Cape Pigeons again, but caught none. Sea very rough. Rainy. Weather cold & dreary. Wind not quite so strong. Nearly all sail set. Had a coffee fuddle at night.


Wednesday 21st August


Got up 8 a.m. Weather still Bad. Caught a Cape Pigeon & tied some spare yarn round its neck & let it go again. So that we should know if we catch it again. They are very foolish birds. I hooked the same one, two or three times & nearly landed it each time.


Fine sunset. All sail set till 5 p.m. when the Skysail was furled. I thought the mast would have snapped off just before the sail was taken in. It was bending like a cane.


Mr Alexander told me just before tea that he expected that we should have a spree before the night was over, & so we did. About 7.30 p.m. we were paying cards in the Saloon, when we began rolling & pitching nicely & there was as tremendous noise on deck. Officers shouting & men running about. So I put on my Mackintosh & went upstairs to see what wasgoing on. As soon as I got up the Companion Hatch I was nearly blinded by a flash of lightening (it's a grand sight to see lightning on a dark night at sea). All hands were aloft taking in sail. They had been hard at work since tea time. The only three sails on the ship were the tree lower top sails. The crew were just finishing furling the Main Upper Topsail & Foresail. The lightning showed them up nicely every now & then. I would rather them be up there than me on a night like this, when there is a gale of wind blowing, & rain coming down "Elephants & Camels" (ie something much greater than "Cats & dogs") & getting half blind by the lightning. But this is second nature, they didn't seem to mind a bit. They made a frightful noise shouting & singing. A sailor never pulls a rope without singing.


As it was too dark to see anything, I went below again. I found Mrs Paul & daughters rather scared. I'm glad Papa & Mama could not see us. They would have thought we were going to the bottom. Every now & then we shipped a lot of water & rolled & groaned frightfully. This is the first proper gale we have had, we can do very well without another. The sailors say they don't want another night like it. It's such work furling wet sails. They are as hard as boards. Went to bed at 10 p.m. & got rocked to sleep nicely.


Thursday 22nd August


Got up 8.30 a.m. Steward came into our cabin at 8.30 & found us all asleep. He kept the breakfast waiting for us. Sea not so rough, but there is a heavy swell on. Carpenter at work in the Saloon changing the silk in the doors. We look quite "swell" with the new silk & the cleaning the Saloon has had lately


Friday 23rd August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Ship in sight getting nearer every minute. When she was about 1½ miles away on the Starboard quarter, she ran up her name "The Hawkesbury of London" 1120 tons. We have sighted her twice before. She is our rival, she left England the same time as us. She is taking Emigrants to Sydney. About 11.30 we were broadside to broadside not above 200 or 300 yards apart. There was a strong wind blowing & we had got les canvas on than she had, so we hauled up out Top gallant sails & took the reef out of the main sail & mad a race of it, but she had the best of it. She was to windward & took the wind out of our sails. It was very vexing to see her creep ahead of us. The emigrants enjoyed it immensely, they made a fine row, cheering & waving handkerchiefs. There were at least 400 or 500 of them, they looked like a swarm of bees.


By 12.30 she was about a length ahead, then we put on our main Royal, & she did the same soon after, but it was no go we could not catch her. She is much lighter than we are. By dusk she was 6 miles ahead.


She signalled when passing:


JHWR Hawkesbury of London

BDTG From Plymouth

BNCJ To Sydney

BQR Wish you a pleasant passage

WDQ 56 days out

WD Yes


We signalled:


HGCQ Ann Duthie

BDPQ From London

BNCJ To Sydney

WDS 58 days out

DAG Are you all well?

Dipped Ensign


I walked 5 miles on the poop this morning. Had a choir practice this afternoon because the folks that live forward dare not undertake to come so far after dark, the main deck is always wet now. If they didn't fall down they would be sure to get soaked by a wave coming over the Bulwarks. It's quite a feat to get from one end of the Ship to the other in the dark now. You have to go from rope to rope.


Another pig killed. Played Whist & Bezique in the evening. Cold & Fine. Wind very squally. Bed 11.15 p.m.


Saturday 24th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Spent most of the morning in Mr Cox's cabin. Hawkesbury in sight this morning from the Fore Topsail yard. Miss Paul asked me to draw the "Ann Duthie" for her so I tried. I drew a ship of some kind but I should not like to call it the Ann Duthie.


Spent part of the evening looking at the Course on the chart. Ought to get to Sydney in three weeks, easy.


Sunday 25th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. First calm day we have had for a long time. Al sail set. Hawkesbury in sight ahead. Wind very light. Service as usual 4 p.m. Wind freshened towards tea time. Overtook the Hawkesbury, saw her lights on the Starboard quarter at night. We sail better than she does with a light wind.


Monday 26th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Thoroughly wet day. Rough sea. Changed bunks for the last time I hope. JS bottom. Lots of birds about. Bed 11 p.m.


Tuesday 27th August


Got up 8 a.m. Had a walk before Breakfast. Sea calm till 10 a.m. when a squall came on which freshened up into a young gale towards evening. Only Top sails set at night. Caught some Cape Pigeons this morning. John caught a Cape Hen in the Afternoon, 4 ft across the wings. Saw a very large Albatross. Very rainy & dark far worse than a November day in England.


Wednesday 28th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Calm sea no wind. Boxed the compass that is the ship's head pointed N.S.E&W. rudder no use. John caught a Cape Pigeon & let him run about the deck. They cannot fly off the deck - he ran about till he ran over the side. Very little Sun. Showery & Misty. Bed 11 p.m.


Thursday 29th August


Got up 8 a.m. Still calm. Proper day not a cloud in sky. Brought our clothes & boots up on deck to dry. Fished for birds, but they were too "canny". Sail astern, a Barque.


Had a Fuddle in the 1st Mate's Cabin in honour of J.S.'s birthday. J.S. proposed that we should try & make ourselves bad by smoking coffee, so we tried it, but didn't succeed. Bed 10.45.


Friday 30th August


Got up 8.15 a.m. Bark not in sight. Had a little wind during the night. Saw a ship on Starboard quarter about 8 miles off. Officers think it's the Hawkesbury. Choir practice only saloon passengers there the others didn't turn up. Sharpened my Bowie Knife on the Carpenter's oil stone.


2nd Mate showed us how to make a "Matthew Walker Knot", "Diamond Knot" & how to make an "Eye Splice".


Saturday 31st Aug


Got up 8.15 a.m. Still calm. Practiced knotting & splicing again. Learnt how to make a "True Lovers Knot".


It's a very pretty knot when properly made, the sketch above is not a good one.


Hawkesbury still in sight. Breeze at last.


Sunday 1st September


Got up 8.15 a.m. Stormy again, sea rough. Captain & mate were called away from breakfast because a squall came on. Rained all day. Hawkesbury still in sight. No service - too stormy.


We have read all the books we brought with us, except the Dr's medical library. The Captain has a complete set of Waverley Novels, which I am getting on with, am now very interested in "Ivanhoe". It is dark early now, but the saloon looks cosy when the lamps are lighted.


Spent the evening in Port St. All three at the large house tale telling. Gale abated at night and more sail was carried.


Monday 2nd September


Got up 8 a.m. Had a walk on deck before breakfast. Hawkesbury in sight, six miles off on the Starboard beam, gained on her during the night. Rainy & cold. John & I played whist in Mr Cox's cabin this afternoon.


We are in rather a fix for a penknife. We have all lost ours. Mine went overboard when I was fishing for Pigeons one day.


Pauls, Captain, W.G.S & W.H. played Speculation all evening. JS at his log. Went on deck at 10 p.m. Walked 2 miles.


Tuesday 3rd September


Got up 7 a.m. intending to have a good walk before breakfast. When I got on deck I found there was a storm coming on. We got it sweetly for about half an hour, hail, snow, rain & wind. All sails but "lower Topsail" taken in on the Mizzen mast, & Skysail & royals on fore & main taken in. Going 12 knots. JS came up at 8 a.m. then we had a walk. Another squall at 9.30 a.m. Heavy sea on.


Wednesday 4th September


Got up 8 a.m. On deck before breakfast. Very squally. Hail & rain. Sun shone from 10 to 1 p.m. Then squalls again in the afternoon. Fish for birds (J.S & W.H.), caught none, going too fast.


The sketch on the other page (sketch missing, Editor) is intended to represent the interior of our cabin with the door open to the Dr's. Folks who look at it please forget that there is such a thing as perspective. Our cabins seem a great deal larger than they did at first. We wish they were smaller when it's rough. It's too far to be thrown from one side to the other. Candles running short. Sat in the signal house until 11 p.m. watching for a storm. Officers say there is one coming. Glass very low, then went to bed & found the Dr's (text missing, half page cut out, Editor).


Thursday 5th September


Got up 8 a.m. & was very much surprised to hear that there had been a grand stir in the night, as I was fast asleep all the time. I will give you John Scott's description of it:-


Extract from J.S.'s Log for Sept 5th


Got up 3.30 a.m. having slept since bed time the thirty odd minutes not more. Too many things adrift, & too much noise above, all round & below to sleep. Went on deck well clothed to face the thickly falling hail & furious gale, which J.S. knew would be found above by the noise & observing the 2 stewards (called by the Captain from their beds) swabbing up some little water that had made its way into the saloon.


On reaching the deck the Captain was found - & communicative as usual told how he had gone below at 1 a.m. with a strong breeze blowing from N.W. how he had lain down of his sofa dressed as he was, how he had fallen asleep & how he from that sleep was suddenly awakened at 3 o'clock by being flung into the middle of his (by this time) flooded floor. The wind had without warning changed from blowing a gale from the N.W. as before mentioned in the twinkling of an eye to a gale from the S.W. plunging the ship before anyone could be aware into the cold seas. The cargo of salt water taken on board before the helm was altered was so considerable as to twist round the massive hen coop, to force up the flooring of the swine house & slip the pigs through into the flood. It was verily a flood seeing that the men were shoulder deep in the water at the time - & to rush up front of poop and down signal house stairs into the Saloon (fortunately but little reached so far). Had there been any fowl in the Hen Coop they would have shared the fate of the one that flew overboard. The last lot had been killed the day before, leaving the house tenantless.


The pigs swam until the waters subsided, carried hither & thither by the great force they (the waters) attained, through heavy rolling of ship. They bumped against the men constantly & occasionally felt the deck when another rush would move them on giving pain (as told by squeals) by banging against bulwarks etc.


No damage was done to the ship except the loosening of a few feet of bulwark & the carrying away of a few ropes & blocks from the rigging which were repaired during the day.


Squally whole of day with showers of rain & hail & falls of snow. Decks constantly flooded. The Ladies & the Pilgrims took advantage of a glorious sun shining hour in the forenoon to promenade on poop, a rope hand rail being fixed by W.H & J.S. for safety. The ship heeled over at times dangerously for walking.


Mr Alexander stated that when S.W. gale commenced, hail stones were falling in myriads as large as apples (say peas & even that is large J.S.).


The said Mr A. at 4 p.m. boiled water & made cocoa, very welcome to aged Pylgrym be assured. The aforementioned Mr A computed one take in of water to weigh 30 tons which J.S. did not think exaggerating


It continued rough all day. The 2nd class passengers have been confined to their cabins for days for the main deck has been continually swept by heavy seas.


Friday 6th September


Got up 8 a.m. Beastly day again, we are making up for the beautiful weather we had at the beginning of the voyage.


Walked 2 miles on poop this morning during I mean between the squalls.


Aired our clothes this afternoon. In the evening I worked at my bunk & made it more comfortable. I put up a bed's head to keep the draft off. I nailed a piece of board on eh side board & then tacked a towel to the deck above. It's as comfortable now as an old four poster. J.S.'s bunk is a sight. He has in his bunk to make it narrower a portmanteau, 3 chairs & 2 cases so there is not much room for him. I don't wonder he can't sleep. In the night the dumbbells were rolling about on the shelf above my bunk, so J.S. got out & put them in my bed, where found them in the morning.


Choir practice, only saloon passengers turned too wet for folks forward.


Saturday 7th September


Got up 8.15 a.m. Squally & rainy. Lots of birds about - "Molly Hawks", "Gannets", "Cape Hens" etc. I didn't expect to see half so many sea birds, the only part of the voyage birdless was from the "Canaries" to the line.


These are the birds we have seen so far:-


"Mother Carie's Chicken" exactly like a swallow only all Black.

"Whale or Ice Bird" a delicate looking bird about the size of a Thrush, a light drab colour.

"Cape Pigeon" larger than ordinary pigeon, black & white.

"Cape Hen" as large as a goose, white breast & dark black wings.

"Molly Hawk" size of a swan with long wing & short neck.

"Gannet" like a Molly Hawk only larger.

"Albatross" I don't know how to describe him. He's an ugly beast with wings about 10 to 12 feet across.

"Storm Petrels" black birds the size of a rook.


Fishing for sea-birds is the only sport we have had - that is successful - we have fished for "Bineta" & "Dolphin" but caught none. Bed 10.30 p.m.


Sunday 8th September


Got up 8 a.m. Service at 4 p.m. congregation very small, consisted of Pauls, 2 young Pearses, 1st & 3rd Mates, Captain & ourselves. Only had the prayers & hymns no sermon. The reason the congregation was so small was just before Church time we shipped a big sea. The Dr J.S. & W.H. went to see if they could come - to get to the deck-house we had to climb over the Hen coop then round the main mast onto the pumps & jump on to the main hatch then we could walk on the spar to Starboard St. When we got there we found the folks dressed ready to come, but they didn't see to force of going the way we came so the 3rd Mate proposed we should pull them about in a tub. They didn't like that either. Old Mrs ? said she would go in the tub if some one would go first. Just then another wave came over & settled it.


Wrote letters & sang hymns at night, then went up on deck. Beautiful moon light night. Turned in at 10.30 p.m.


Days out 75

Course E

Lat 42o 4'

Long 110o 0'

Distance 263

Wind W


Monday 9th September


Got up 8.15 a.m. "Abreast of Australia" at noon today. Sea calmed down, so we got our meals in peace for the first time for at least 3 weeks I should think. Wind moved to the quarter (port) we got all "fore & aft" canvas on so we don't roll, we only roll when the wind is "right aft". Very little rain. Had a long walk on the poop this morning. Turned in early.


Tuesday 10th September


Got up 8 a.m. Beautifully fine - getting into finer weather to the joy of "all hands". Damages done by gales practically made good.


This morning I was fishing for sea-birds - they were all very hungry after the rough weather - as soon as the line was out a great "Molly Hawk" grabbed the bait & fled away a treble hook in his beak & part of the line. So I went below & got some new hooks. In a few minutes I hooked another & shouted out for "John" & "Will" to help me land him. It was a sight to see us hauling the line "hand over" & the bird holding back as hard as he could with his wing & feet in the water. The line was only very fine, we were frightened of it giving way every second. We managed to get him us to the taffrail when just as we nailed him the line broke, but we got him safe enough. J.S. held him by the neck W.G.S. the feet & W.H. the wings. J.S. had one hand free so he knocked him on the head with a belaying pin which ended his struggles. He measures 7 ft 6 in across the wings. The Bo'sum says it's a "gannet", it's a very pretty bird. White breast, dark back & wings & slate coloured head & neck.


We hooked one or two more but didn't land them, or rather, ship them. Played cards till late.


Wednesday 11th September


Got up 8.30 a.m. late for breakfast. My bunk is too comfortable. Fine day - best we have had for some time.


W.G.S skinned the Garnet & I gave it to Mrs Paul. Hope to get some on the return passage to take home. Played "Loo" & "Spec" in the evening with Pauls & Captain. Had a shower of rain at night. Stayed on deck till 10.30 p.m. Bed at 10.30 p.m. My log is getting very stale. I shall be glad when it's done.


Thursday 12th September


Got up 8 a.m. Glorious day again no rain. Long walk on poop in morning. Choir practice. Wind on Port Beam. Bed 11 p.m.


Friday 13th September


Got up 8 a.m. Fine again today. Wind still on the Port Beam. Ship in sight on Starboard Bow 6 miles off. Bed 11 p.m.


Saturday 14th September


Got up 8.15 a.m. Rainy all day. We are beginning to get ready for Sydney. W.G.S, J.S. & W.H. worked all morning at the cable getting it up & arranging it along the main deck. The cables are overhauled ready for anchoring, the first sign of nearing land. It is being got ready now because it might be wanted in Bass Straights which we hope to reach tomorrow. J.S & W.H. rigged up hammocks which took all evening. When mine was fixed W.G.S. got in but it wasn't not strong enough to hold him. It gave way & out he came with a mighty crash. It shook him very much he had to lay down for the rest of the evening. The hammock was slung 5 ft from the deck. We thought we would try hammocks because it's uncomfortable in the bunks when we roll.


Boats spring cleaned for use in Sydney Harbour. Captain says he hopes to make land tomorrow, but is not sure of exact position, not had a sight of the sun for some days.


Hammock 10.45 p.m.


Sunday 15th September


Got up 8 a.m. after a very uncomfortable night in a hammock. I shall not sleep in one again, it almost made me seasick, it knocked about so - at least it stayed still & the cabin knocked about I suppose. It's not a nice feeling & then I couldn't keep the clothes on. I kept waking up about every hour & find the bed clothes on the floor. After W.G.S. fell out of my hammock we slung them nearer the deck. Mine tied one end to a hook in deck above (ie they call everything decks here there are no floors & ceilings) & the other through the key hole in opposite door. J.S.'s was the same in the Dr's cabin.


Dr better, got over his fall. Passed a Barque with only two sails. Set main topsail & fore topmast staysail.


Ship in sight. Captain thought it was the "Centurion" for Sydney which left London two days before us, but about 11 a.m. we signalled her. She was the "Aviemore" for Melbourne sister ship to the "Centurion". We asked her for her Longitude & gave her ours as have been going by dead reckoning since Friday & the Captain does not know exactly where he is.


Got the Sun at noon so we are all right. Captain says we shall make Cape Otway before night.


Service 4 p.m. as usual. At 4.30 the Mate came down for the Captain, we guessed that land was in sight, but we went on with the service. The word "Amen" was hardly finished when I rushed on deck & there on the port bow I could see Land (a welcome sight after three months with nothing but water, although it looked very barren & rocky). I was the first of us three that saw Australia, the first land we have seen since Start Point.


By the time we were within 5 miles of "Cape Otway" the light house was quite visible. After tea the lighthouse was astern & we could see its revolving light every minute. There was great excitement on board when land was sighted, every one looks pleased.


This morning J.S., W.G.S & W.H. helped the sailors get the anchors out. They are lifted by tackle fitted to the Fore Topmast head. Captain expects to make "Wilson's Promontory" early tomorrow. So J.S. & W.H. went to bed at 8.45 p.m. & asked to be called as soon as it was sighted.


Days out 82 Course ENE

Lat 43o 11'

Long 139o 6'

Distance 221

Wind W


Monday 16th September


Called by 3rd mate at 4.45 a.m. Light on Wilson's Promy in sight. John & I were on deck in no time. A glorious sight was in store for us. On the Port Bow we see Wilson's Promy & on the Starboard "The Rotundo" & other rocks. The passage we are entering looked about a mile wide but the Captain told us it was two miles. "The Rotundo" is an immense mass of rock the shape of a sugar loaf & 1150 ft height, & the cliffs on the other side much higher & on a rock about 300 ft stood the lighthouse the most southern point of "Wilson's Promy". In about a quarter of an hour the sun began to rise we say its rays first on top of the Rotundo & watched it till it reached the sea, about 5.15 a.m. John & I went down with the 2nd Mate & got a cup of proper coffee & some bread & butter then went on deck again. We were just abreast of the Lighthouse. It went out as we came up - so we hauled up our name & port & the folks at the signal house answered us - with the glass I could see them quite distinctly - they will Telegraph to Sydney that we are coming.


In a few minutes the "Devils Tower" came in sight - but we didn't get within 6 miles of it.


John & I made sketches of these rocks on scrap paper. It was rather cold work at 5 o'clock in the morning.


Just as we were passing the Light House a steamer going the opposite way passed us, one of the Colonial Steamers between Sydney & Melbourne.


When we got into the wider part of the straights we were completely surrounded by sea-birds. I shall never forget it, it looked just like a black snow storm. They fled round & round the ship about a hundred yards away. From a hundred yards away to the horizon they were as thick as gnats. They seemed to be all the same sort, a kind of Black gull, except a few large white birds that flew close to the ship.


We had a Baracouta line out all the time but caught nothing. It's about the first time anyone has been through the Straits without catching any. Baracouta are fish about 4 ft long, something like salmon, I believe.


By 6 a.m. Hogan Island was sighted. At 7.30 a.m.there were three folks on the Ann Duthies' poop making a sketch of it viz:- Miss L.P., J.S. & W.H. The Dr made his appearance about this time although we had called him often and told him what he was missing.


At 6 a.m. we saw another ship coming through the straights. Beautiful fine day.


10 a.m. out of sight of land again making our way to "Cape Howe" which we hope to make it by 4 p.m. to morrow. This evening we saw a great shoal of porpoise. I fires two or three shots at them without any visible effect. Then I tried my spear, but it was too light altogether, about as much good as throwing a pin at them.


The weather is beautiful, we are getting a taste of the "Colonial" weather. Turned in early. Gave instructions to be called as soon as "Cape Howe" is visible.


Tuesday 17th September


Called by 2nd Mate at 10 min past 5 a.m. & was on deck in no time. Cape Howe in sight. Saw Light of Lighthouse on Gabo Island ahead. At daylight when 4 miles off J.S. & W.H took a sketch of it. 7 a.m. off Cape Howe. Kept in sight of land all day about 8 miles off.


11 a.m. Cape Green very pretty sight. Coast very pretty there were forests all along & high mountains.


Rather rainy all morning but fine in the afternoon. Sea & wind too quiet. Worked all day at packing. Packed everything but our beds.


Wednesday 18th September


Got up 7 a.m. In sight of land about 5 miles off. Glorious day.


11 a.m. "Sydney Heads in Sight" expected to make them about 2 p.m. Wind very light. Saw 2 whales quite close.


1 o'clock Sydney in sight. Ran the flag up the Main mast head for a pilot. Ensign at peak. H.G.C.2 "Ann Duthie" at the Mizzen.


A market steamer passed us at 1.30 rocking tremendously & we were as steady as possible. The Sydney "Mystery" alongside at 20 to 2 to Starboard. A large steamer passed between us & the shore at the same time. 1st mate said he thought it was the mail boat. I was very vexed because there would not be another for some time. The tug came close alongside & the two Captains began straining their lungs. This was the information we got:-


"Hawkesbury" arrived at five o'clock this morning - in quarantine

"Centurion" not arrived (great rejoicing)

"Cairnbulg" (same owners & agents as the "Ann Duthie) arrived 12 days ago, dismasted 100 days out.


Then the Captain of the tug tied a newspaper to an iron bolt & thrown it aboard. There was a general rush to hear the news. All glad to hear that the Eastern Question is being settled peaceably.


3.45 "Let go the Anchor" then there was a fine row for a few seconds the cable rattling through the hawser pipe made the ship shake. I was standing close to the anchor, it splashed me all over.


After we had read all our letters Will & I went ashore to the Post Office. I found a letter from Papa there & none for John or the Dr.




Editor's post script


I was delighted to find the list of passengers and crew arriving in Australia on the internet at: http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1878/09/075ann.htm

A scanned version of the crew list is at http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1878/09/scan.asp?filename=075ann.jpg


Who was Anne Duthie?


Some internet research provided the following observations.


According to this website…


http://ca.geocities.com/taylorhomeca/d22.htm#P3507


…an Anne Duthie was born in 1850. She died on 18 Mar 1884 in Cairnbulg, Aberdeenshire. Her parents were James and Margaret Duthie. She was married to William Cardno on 23 Feb 1871 in Free Church of Rathen, Aberdeenshire. Their children were: Elizabeth, John, Margaret Duthie, and William.


Since the ship Anne Duthie was registered in Aberdeen, it seems possible that she was named after this Anne. The Duthie shipyards operated in Aberdeen from 1816 onwards. Anne probably had a connection to the shipbuilding family, but her father James was not noted as being involved in the yard at:


http://www.aberdeenships.com/sb_duthie.asp


A James Duthie, perhaps Anne's father, was the master of the ship Australian that arrived in Sydney on 25 December 1866. See:


http://mariners.records.nsw.gov.au/1866/12/077aus.htm