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Use a medium to hard charcoal pencil. Go over your pencil lines with a bit of pressure behind your work. Then, erase using a kneaded erasure. A fairly solid image will remain. Then, paint. Works every time, and eliminates those pesky pencil lines that come back later to haunt you.

Your thin coat of gesso would be fine. Charcoal would be a much better drawing medium. In any case, the graphite drawing should be only a light line without shading or smudging. You should know that graphite is used as a dry lubricant, and so will contribute to adhesion issues.

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If you want your drawing more visible you can use clear gesso, matte acrylic medium or matte alkyd medium in place of regular gesso. All three of them will tend to be less absorbent than regular acrylic gesso, which I prefer, but you might not. By choosing a matte material you are giving it more tooth than a gloss medium for a better bond. Matte alkyd medium will give you the added bonding oil on oil gives in addition to the mechanical bond you get with matte acrylic grounds.

At least one artist here in WC, user name DCam, will work up a fairly detailed and shaded drawing then seal that to continue on with paint. It works well for him and he ends up with some excellent work in my view. I will see if I can find a link to one of them.

How I use pencils on painting surfaces:

1. First, I usually do several thumbnail sketches with separate paper and pencil to figure out values and composition before starting on the actual painting surface. This greatly reduces the number of corrections I have to make in the painting.

2. Then, I use an ordinary B2 pencil to draw the composition on the painting surface, using a few grid lines. I use the pencil for outlines of objects and edges, not shading.

3. After I am satisfied with the composition, I will erase with a kneaded eraser the lines to make them a little lighter in value. I will dust off the painting surface and I am now ready to paint.

4. I do NOT seal the surface before painting.

My suggestion to you:

Figure out your process and technique problems before you start on the desired painting. Do several throw away practice paintings, using different types and amounts of graphite or other pencils, to map the composition. Cover with different amounts and types of white or other semi-transparent oil paint. Let them dry. Examine in a year or so and see what you think. I use inexpensive oil paint paper canva-pads for these types of experiments. Find out what works best for you.

I usually use softer graphite pencil as the under drawings, I always build my layers up so eventually no canvas is visible. Usually my first 2 layers are pretty thinned down and that helps to dissolve and blend in the graphite. Never had a problem with adhesion issues or anything bleeding through.

Recently tried charcoal, but it dissipated too quickly for my taste once I started painting.

I have recently done two pieces of generative artworks, which is code via Processing. These pencil sketch like art are actually drawn in millions of grayscale dots by computer programs and accurate mathematical computation.

Hi everyone, I have paste an article link at the end of this post to show you how I create this drawing. Because I am not very good in English, this article is original written in Chinese and use Google to translate into English plus a little modification, hope it not too difficult to understand.

I'm trying to create rough pencil sketch drawings of popular authors. I have an image that I want to use as a template, I'm trying to get as close as possible to the style of the image below. This image used the prompt "old man portrait sketch in style of Leonardo Da Vinci"

My problem is the images I get are much more detailed and precise than I want. Below is the best result I've been able to get with the following prompt: "A pencil sketch of Sigmund Freud drawn on paper , black and white, sketchfab, precisionist"

You likely have a pretty good sketch at this stage, but there are a few more steps that can make it look even better. First, add another adjustment layer. From the Layers panel, create a new adjustment layer, selecting Levels as the type. Then change the blending mode to Multiply.

One way to make a sketch drawing look more natural is to add in some linework or doodles yourself. Use any of the drawing tools available in Photoshop to draw additional lines and rough up the drawing a bit. The more you do this, the more natural the artwork will look.

You can adjust the blending mode of the layers in your drawing to add in or highlight a specific color. Try adding an adjustment layer with a specific color or changing the blend mode to Color instead of Normal, and see how the drawing changes to look more like a colored-pencil sketch. Adjusting these elements can emulate a drawing with a blue pen, for example. See if you can create the look of an oil painting or watercolor instead.

I've been trying to find a method within Affinity Photo to extract hand drawn and scanned pencil sketches from their background. Something the same as this photoshop technique would be ideal =KE9V3-K8SwI

Thanks @toltec for this post, I'll try this method for my pencil drawings. I used to do that by selecting the sampled color first (select sample color) and then hitting delete, but this method not always gives the desired effects.

I think you could replicate the look of layered watercolor washes if you blended or layered up the pencils. That said, you have a unique style using colored pencils more as quick drawing tools, and less as a means of achieving a labor-intensive painterly effect.

The 9000s are smart hexagonal pencil, in gold and cream on a dark green casing. My favourite fact about them is that their colour scheme was chosen by Count Alexander von Faber-Castell to match his military uniform! They are light to hold and have their grade printed clearly on every other facet so that they are easy to identify. You can buy a version of the HB and B grades with these soft little erasers on top.

Lumograph pencils never scratch or feel gritty and as they rise up the scale the shades become darker in a most reliable and uniform manner. They have the widest range of grades of all of the pencils and go all the way up to a very black 12B, although grades above a 9B can be hard to source in the UK. The Hamilton Pen company carries all of the grades. With such a wide tonal range you are really covered whether you like to draw more lightly or more darkly. If you like to blend your pencils, you will find that they smudge fairly well.

The grades become darker very rapidly as they rise up through the grading scale, and they end up even darker than the Staedtlers in the softer B grades. Therefore you get quite an extreme degree of tonal gradation between the lightest and darkest pencils. My only complaint was a slight lack of consistency rising up through the grades. Whilst the lighter grades had felt very hard (maybe a bit too hard) there seemed to be a rather abrupt jump between the 2B and 3B grades where the consistency changed noticeably and the pencils suddenly became much smoother.

Grafwoods have one brilliant innovation which is that the casings are colour coded, so you can identify the grade of the pencil visually without reading the written grade indicator. The colours start from a pure white casing for the 4H grade, and then get progressively more grey towards the silvery HB. They then continue to darken through the B grades until they reach the carbon-coloured 9B casing.

Cont Paris is another illustrious pencil company and its founder Nicolas-Jacques Cont made a huge historical contribution to the development of the modern pencil when he patented his graphite and clay kiln-fired pencil in 1795. Although Cont are well known and popular in the UK their graphite drawing pencil range is not widely sold which surprises me because it really is very good. The pencils are fairly expensive here if bought individually and are better value when purchased in a tin, where because because the range of grades (only 3H to 6B) is so small you receive several duplicates.

What I have done, however, is made my own 'sketchy' objects just for wireframing. The process was essentially drawing a few UI Primitives (boxes, buttons, etc.) then converting the outlines to shapes, adding extra nodes along each path, then tweaking the position and angle of the nodes to create the 'wiggles'.

Currently, you have to define a stroke placement and a drawing plane to place stroke in 3D viewport.

Then, you can sculpt strokes according to drawing plane (it can be view plane or 3D cursor orientation) or edit them like meshes.

So, experience is similar to Ipad demo.

If you have followed my work for long, you will probably know that I always work from reference images. When I first started drawing, I fell in love with photorealism and the technique and craftsmanship involved in carefully, painstakingly at times, copying a reference image. That is what I enjoy doing and I get really excited about each new project.

When you take your own photos for reference you have complete ownership of the copyright and you never need to worry about crediting another photographer. It can give you a wonderful feeling of creative satisfaction to know that you were a part of the process from the beginning and your drawing is truly one of a kind.

To find reference photos of exceptional quality, you might consider a paid subscription-based site like Adobe Stock or Dreamstime. These sites are expensive and it can be confusing to understand what type of license you need for the way you intend to use the reference, (personal practice vs. selling prints for instance). However, I really feel like using these quality reference images has helped me improve faster as an artist because the images I am drawing from have so much detail and vibrancy and I am able to draw such a wide variety of subjects.

This week, I wanted to share a useful technique that you can introduce into your coloured pencil drawings to bring a strong sense of realism to your artwork. The technique is called indenting, and is absolutely brilliant for creating lifelike fur and features. ff782bc1db