Tools for making the plens
For making a papercraft you probably only think you need scissors and glue. But that is wrong, you need a lot of other materials to make your papercraft smoother. Here’s the list of tools I use when making my own planes:
Large scissors – for clean, sharp cuts
Small scissors – detailed areas and tight corners
Craft knife (like an X-Acto) – cutting inside parts of the paper
Cutting mat – don’t wreck your table please if your not gonna use it
Creaser and a Folder - folding glue tabs
Toothpick & chopstick – for folding and pressing small parts
White glue (like Elmer’s) – dries clear and works great
Tweezers - helps pick up smol parts and place it for the plen
any counterweight, like a coin, paper balls (woah), a nut (dont do it in november) and etc - so the plen with landing gear won't look like it's doing a wheelie (average brazilian motorcycle rider)
this will make your life easy
How much time does it take to make a papercraft model?
That depends on the model and how much free time you have.
Easy builds: 3 to 5 days
Medium: 1 to 2 weeks
More complex planes (like from CityCraft): 3 weeks to 2 months if you’re working solo
If you build with a friend, even the hard models can be done in under 2 weeks.
[Patience is honestly the key to getting great results. Rushing usually leads to mistakes or sloppy glue marks.]
(If you do it from day to night with a duo, it is more likely you finish in less than 2 days.)
What would be the best type of paper for my papercraft?
Here’s what I’ve learned from trial and error:
✅ 100 GSM (My personal favorite)
Pros: Bends well, glues nicely, and holds its shape
Cons: If your scissors aren’t sharp (like cheap school ones), cutting can be rough
⚠️ 180 GSM
Pros: Super sturdy, good for bigger builds
Cons: Harder to glue, and sometimes bulges if you use internal support. I once waited an entire day for glue to dry on an MD-11… and the wing still fell off. It’s also really tough to cut, you’ll need very sharp scissors, and for smaller parts, scissors can actually rip the paper instead of cutting cleanly.
⚠️ 60 GSM or lower
Pros: Easy to cut
Cons: too sloppy. wrinkles easy, especially at folds or tabs and if you let your siblings mess with your plen
Should I use Photo Paper, or Bright White Paper?
Photo Paper (100–120 GSM recommended)
Pros: Colors look amazing and vibrant
Cons: Glossy surface makes it trickier to glue; needs more drying time. Also, if left in the sun for too long, the colors can fade. I had this happen with my KLM 747-100 after just one week. (But if you have a Anti-UV Spray at home, you can apply the spray right after finishing the aircraft (before the colors start fading) and the ink will stay protected.)
Bright White Paper (120 GSM)
Pros: Easy to fold and glue; doesn’t smudge as easily
Cons: Prints look a little duller unless you add some protection. If you want to make your papercraft look extra metallic and shiny, check out the final tip for how to boost the finish, and make your aircraft metallic, shiny and beautiful!
Papercraft Finishing Tips: Glossy & Chrome Effects
If you want your papercraft plane to look extra metallic and shiny, using the right sprays and finishing techniques can make a huge difference. Here’s a simple, step-by-step guide based on Edwin Rodriguez’s tutorial and my own experience — now corrected with the proper order and purposes of each material.
Before cutting or building anything, prepare your printed pages with a thin layer of white glue. This seals the paper surface, giving it a smoother look and helping create a slight natural shine.
How to apply:
Use a stiff card (like an old credit card).
Put a small line of white glue (Elmer’s or similar) along the card’s edge.
Swipe the glue evenly across the surface of each printed page.
The glue should dry clear and form a thin, invisible film.
💡 Tip: You might need to reapply glue to the card for each new page, and it’s okay to go over a page twice if some areas were missed.
This glue layer is not meant to protect the ink — that’s the job of the spray. Instead, it smooths the paper and prepares it for a cleaner, glossier final look.
After applying the glue, let each page dry fully before cutting or building. This step is essential for avoiding smears, warping, or glue buildup.
Drying times may vary depending on humidity and temperature, but give it at least a few hours to be safe.
Now that the pages are sealed and dry, proceed to cut out your pieces and build your papercraft model.
🛑 Important: Only apply finishing sprays after the entire model is completely assembled. Spraying earlier can damage the ink or make the paper difficult to work with during cutting and folding.
Take your time and make sure your model is fully constructed before moving on to finishing.
Once your model is fully built, it’s time to apply the finishing spray. This is what protects your model and gives it that shiny or metallic look.
Choose one or both:
Anti-UV spray: makes it so the sun wont fade your whole plane
Chrome effect spray: Gives a realistic metallic shine. You can apply it over a light gloss coat or use it on its own for a more dramatic effect.
How to apply:
Spray outdoors or in a well-ventilated area.
Make sure it’s a dry, sunny day for best drying conditions.
Hold the spray can 20–30 cm (8–12 inches) away from the model.
Apply light, even coats. Avoid soaking the paper.
Let each coat dry before applying another.
🎯 Reminder: Skipping the Anti-UV spray will end in your ink unprotected and fading if exposed to sunlight or moisture. This spray will make sure the ink doesn't fade
The glue layer makes the paper look glossier and juicy
The anti-UV spray acts as a protective barrier, shielding your model from fading, and UV damage.
The chrome spray adds visual impact with a shiny, metallic look.
Spraying before assembly or placing glue layer can cause problems with cutting, folding, and ink bleeding.
By following these steps, your papercraft will not only look better but also last longer and resist fading or damage over time.