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An Unused Deck
An Unused Deck
We built a large cedar deck in 2002 to supplement our smaller upper deck. However, we rarely used the lower deck so when we decided to build a wood burning sauna, this unused deck became a viable space to use as a base for our sauna and the cooling off area.
Remove and Trim Bushes Around Deck
Remove and Trim Bushes Around Deck
The Japanese Yew bushes which we had planted 20 years ago grew much larger than they were supposed to get. We removed one bush to make way for the future wood pile and the other bushes around the perimeter of the deck were trimmed to make sauna construction easier.
Repurpose Wood to Make Door Handle
Repurpose Wood to Make Door Handle
Some of the wood from the removed Japanese Yew bush was used to make door handles for the sauna door. We thought it would be nice to repurpose something from this area into our new construction.
Remove Railing and Cut Down Posts
Remove Railing and Cut Down Posts
The railing around the lower deck area and posts in the sauna area were removed
Splice Posts
Splice Posts
The posts which remained were extended by splicing the removed posts to the remaining posts
Install Sleeves Over Posts
Install Sleeves Over Posts
The spliced posts were then covered with composite post sleeves to cover up the splice and make the posts more secure. Bottom and top covers were also installed to complete the post new look
These posts were then used to support the privacy fence we built around the cooling off area
Partial Removal of Deck Boards
Partial Removal of Deck Boards
The cedar deck boards which will be in the sauna area were removed. Screw rails had been attached to all of the existing joists and two screws per deck board were used to secure them. All of these boards had been screwed from below to give our deck a more clean look when we built it. It was a pain crawling under the deck to remove some 500 screws and screw rails and I realized it must have been even a bigger pain for me to install all of these screws when we built the deck. I am now 20 years older and it felt like I am 40 years older.
I ended up repurposing some of the screw rails and screws when I built the sauna benches!
Remove Existing Joist Hangers and Water Pipe
Remove Existing Joist Hangers and Water Pipe
The existing 2"x8" joist hangers were removed along with the existing 3/4" copper water line. New joist hangers that could support two joists were then installed to support the beefed up floor joist system.
Beef Up Floor Joists
Beef Up Floor Joists
2"x10" treated floor joists were doubled up with the existing 2"x8" floor joists and glued and screwed together to support the increased floor load. The new joist system also had to be constructed level for the new sauna structure as we had originally provided a slight slope on the existing deck joist system to allow it to more easily shed water.
Making a Solid Base
Making a Solid Base
Cross bracing was also added between the joists to help create a solid base for the floor system
Base Floor
Base Floor
The base floor was constructed from 4'x8'x 3/4" thick treated plywood and was attached to the new floor joist system with construction adhesive and 3" stainless steel screws @ 8" on center along each joist and cross bridging to produce a solid and durable base for the shell construction.
Routing New Water Line
Routing New Water Line
A new 3/4" copper water line was routed from our laundry area and then under the deck to replace the outside water spigot and to provide a cold water source for the sauna. This line has a steep gradient to allow the line to successfully drain. A shutoff valve was also installed on the water spigot line to allow this spigot to be isolated from use in the winter while still allowing the main line to the sauna to remain operational.
The new water line was tapped into the existing cold water piping in the laundry room and valves installed to allow the system to be shut off and drained after each sauna use in the winter.
While all of my solder joints didn't look very nice none of them leaked!
During the winter I forgot to drain the water line one evening and it froze so we added heat tracing cable to the pipe and covered it with pipe insulation. The heating cable is supposed to protect it from freezing down to -40° F but I will still try to remember to drain the pipe after each sauna use during the winter.
Dig Hole for French Drain
Dig Hole for French Drain
A 24"deep x 12" diameter hole was dug below the base floor for the sauna French drain system. This hole was dug before the base floor was installed.
Connect Drain Pipe
Connect Drain Pipe
A 2" PVC pipe (perforated with 1/2" holes below grade) was connected to the sauna floor drain and inserted into the French drain system. A union was provided to allow me to remove, modify, or replace the drain pipe in the future. The hole was lined with geotextile fabric and then filled with washed landscape rock to provide a slow release of water which may be used during a sauna into the surrounding ground
It was our original intention to insulate between the floor joists as the floor would be exposed to our cold Minnesota winter air. However, we decided to forego insulation at this time to see how cold the floor will actually get.
After using the sauna in some below zero weather our first winter we did find the concrete/tile floor to be quite cold so we added some teak wood slat squares in the area where we wash up. We may insulate under the floor and then enclose this space to prevent rodents from having a warm cozy home at some point. Or maybe not....
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