FAQs about Azelaic Acid

Q. What is azelaic acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in whole grains like barley, wheat, and rye. However, the synthetic form of azelaic acid is more often used in skincare products because of its stability and effectiveness.

Q. What is azelaic acid used for in skin care?

Azelaic acid is used to treat the following skin concerns:

Acne & Blemishes

Acne Scars

Mild Melasma

Redness

Rosacea

Q. How does azelaic acid benefit my skin?

The top 6 azelaic acid skin benefits are:

Fights acne bacteria

Removes dead skin cells

Prevents future acne

Anti-inflammatory

Lightens melasma and acne scars

Safer than Accutane

Q. What skin types is azelaic acid good for?

Azelaic acid is safe to use on all skin types.

Q. Is azelaic acid safe for my skin?

Azelaic acid is safe for topical use in concentrations of up to 20% in skin care products.

Q. What are common side effects from applying azelaic acid topically?

Dryness, itching or peeling, and burning or tingling can be common side effects from applying azelaic acid topically. Always be sure to do a patch test on your skin before applying a new product to your entire face.

Q. How long does azelaic acid take to work topically? How much azelaic acid to use ?

It will take 6-8 weeks of consistent topical use of azelaic acid before you begin to see improvements. Remember - consistency is key for optimal results. Results will not happen overnight.

Q. Can azelaic acid be used as a peel?

No, azelaic acid is an ingredient that works over time with consistent application. If you're looking for something quick and intense, consult an esthetician for a glycolic acid or salicylic acid peel.

Q. Is azelaic acid effective on age spots or freckles?

No, azelaic acid is not effective on age spots or freckles - if you want to fade freckles or age spots, try a product with either vitamin C, kojic acid, or arbutin.

Q. How does azelaic acid compare to alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or salicylic acid (BHA)?

Although azelaic acid is similar to these ingredients due to its exfoliating capabilities, azelaic acid does not exfoliate the same way and is not as effective of an exfoliant as alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are for treating hyperpigmentation. However, azelaic acid offers additional benefits that AHA and BHA ingredients don’t provide - it’s great for helping treat rosacea due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties. What to do? Consider using an AHA or BHA exfoliant along with an azelaic acid product. This combination can be ideal for addressing multiple skin concerns, from acne and blemishes to uneven skin tone to age-related concerns you may be struggling with.

Q. Can I use azelaic acid with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)?

Yes, but with caution. This is a great combo if you are looking to treat hyperpigmentation or fine lines and wrinkles. If you are going to use azelaic acid and alpha hydroxy acids together, look for a formula that combines the acids together at lower percentages or use them on alternating days to avoid increasing your chances of irritation.

Q. Can I use azelaic acid with salicylic acid?

Absolutely! This is a great combo if you are looking to treat acne and blemishes. If you are going to use azelaic acid and salicylic acid together to fight breakouts, look for a formula that combines the acids together at lower percentages or use them on alternating days to avoid increasing your chances of irritation.

Q. Can I use azelaic acid with retinol?

Yes, but use with caution. If you are going to use azelaic acid and retinol together, use the azelaic acid product in the morning and the retinol product in the evening, or use them on alternating days to avoid increasing your chances of irritation.

Q. Can I use azelaic acid with vitamin C?

Yes, azelaic acid can be used with vitamin C. However, if you are using both in your skin care routine, use vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid at night. Vitamin C fights to neutralizes free radicals and since free radicals are formed while your skin is exposed to the sun and environmental factors, using it in the evening isn’t necessary.

Q. Can azelaic acid remove acne scars?

Yes, azelaic acid can help remove acne scars.

Q. Can azelaic acid permanently lighten skin?

No, azelaic acid does not have the capability to permanently lighten your skin - it is not destroying melanin - it simply disrupts/slows melanin production. However, azelaic acid has the capability to lighten mild melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (acne scars and dark spots) due to its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme needed for the production of melanin.

Q. Does azelaic acid cause purging?

Yes. Azelaic acid speeds up your skin cell turnover rate - this makes microcomedones turn into acne and blemishes more quickly, causing a sudden rush of breakouts on your face. Surprisingly, this is not a bad thing (no, we aren't joking). It actually means your azelaic acid product is working. However, if the product is causing you to break out in places you don’t normally break out, or your acne has become inflamed, then this is a negative reaction. In this case, you should discontinue using the product because it’s irritating your skin.

Q. How long does the “purge” time period last?

Purging should only last up to a month - if your skin isn’t getting better after 6-8 weeks using the product, than ditch it.

Q. Does azelaic acid bleach clothes?

No, azelaic acid does not bleach clothing or towels.

Q. Do azelaic acid skin care products expire?

Yes. Look for the expiration date or a POA (prescribed period after opening) which tells you how long the product is good after it’s been opened. If your azelaic acid product has expired, do not use it - expired products can cause skin irritation, bacterial infection, or breakouts.

Q. What are common brand names used to identify azelaic acid on an ingredient list for skin care products?

Azelaic Acid

Azelex (contains 20% azelaic acid)

Finacea (contains 15% azelaic acid)