Norte 2025

Day zero

Long drive from Guimarães to Oviedo. On the way, stopped at k2 in Leon, a mountaineering shop I know from other walks, so I could buy walking poles, which I forgot at home 🙈 Tough to get a proper free parking place for my car in Oviedo, so I was quite lucky to buy one of the last bus tickets to Llanes (loads of people travelling). Now I am staying at Hostal Llanes, which I find quite expensive for a pilgrim (35€)! Too many surfers and tourists....Llanes is nice, with a peculiar marina, in a serpentine, an interesting fishing community (gathering seaweed at the time I passed by), very aristocratic buildings, an old casino, several ice-cream parlours & loads of restaurants. Had a beer and a hot chocolate (strange combination but not at the same time), walked around slowly, thinking of my beginning the next day!

Day 1, Llanes to San Esteban de Leces, 37,3km

For a 1st day, I walked too much...simply too long (I have this bad habit of starting with a long day....not recommended)....left at 7am, cloudy morning, weird red sun from the forest fires. Nice coastal path, but lots of asphalt too. Not many cafes. Stopped at one in a nice beach, but had to wait for it to open. 3€ for an aquarius, no tapa😩! Later I had a café con leche, no tapa...some parts of this stage reminded me the camiño Frances. Ribadesella was lovely, especially the promenade. Had lunch for 20€... okayish! Tourist town! Still, the portions were big enough so I could take some food with me for dinner!! After Ribadesella it's always up going out of town, and it was quite hot. Now I am in a nice albergue, full of pilgrim life: eating, resting, washing clothes, reading....

Day 2, San Esteban de Preces to Priesca 25,8km

Left in the dark, going downhill on a narrow road. Lots of trouble with my left foot. Strangely enough, a blister on my right foot. I never have blisters! I am trying to compensate whatever is happening with my left foot. Some rain in Colunga, a nice small town where I got my first breakfast...Arrived early (2pm), and I am staying in a great albergue in front of a beautiful pre-Romanesque church from 912 (Wow!) . My lunch and dinner were made from two packets (pasta and soup). Not usual but it happens! The hospitalera was truly friendly and knowledgeble of pilgrim life....some pilgrims were more tourists than pilgrims in their behaviour. Perhaps too young, perhaps just in the wrong place. What a pitty and the place is really nice!

Day 3, Priesca to Deva, 30,6km

Left at 7:20am. Had a small breakfast in the albergue (included in price) and a 2nd breakfast in Villaviciosa....then up 2 hills...really tough, some rain, but met some nice people. Stayed in an albergue within a camping site with a swimming pool. Went for a swim although the water was frezzing! There was a nice pilgrim menu from 6-8pm (very early for Spanish standarts), and had great conversations with various pilgrims...including Santiago Sanchez, a Spanish pilgrim who spent 14 months in jail in Iran, when walking from Spain to Qatar to see the world cup! (you can easily find with story in social media)

Day 4, Deva to San Martin de Laspra, 41,2km

Quite long day, but varied. Down to Gijon, looking at the royal residence, museums and university. I think I have never visited Gijon so I left with a desire to come back. I passed the industrial suburbs and walked up the hill. On the way I talked to a quite international family: French father, French-Spanish daughter, Austrian-Italian boyfriend. Camiño goes through farming country, rolling hills, nice landscapes....then industry, and a lovely restaurant: seafood salad and lubina. Best restaurants are always in busy industrial zones! After lunch I walked along a quite boring road that followed a river and railway. Endless...until Aviles, but no time to explore...medieval streets. Ended up having an aquarius in a shity bar. Then walked a very steep part of the way to reach an albergue run by Maria, a Portuguese. Donativo with drinks, dinner, and good crowd. Quiet night to recover from today!!

Day 5, San Martin de Laspra to Soto de Luíña, 33km

Always up and down, walked with Anna a Czech, and Donal, an Englishman. Stopped at a beautiful hotel (one of these casas indianas from a family who migrated to Mexico in the 19th century and returned with a small fortune) and had a beer and a bocadillo. Then, with Donal, we made a detour from the camiño and went down to the beach. We went for a swim at Playa de la Concha de Artedo. Moisés, a madrileno on a bike, who I had met some days before was also there, so the three of us had a beer by the sea. I am camping at an albergue now...let's see if it works better...

Day 6, Soto de Luiña to Luarca, 38km

The most beautiful day so far, but quite tough. Very difficult first 18km, mostly uphill...passed a really beautiful beach and stopped for a while. Dried my tent of the beach pebbles. Stopped a lot, and unfortunately, I lost my watch (went back about 500m to see if I could find it, but no). Sweated all day. I think my backpack is too heavy, carrying food (the problem of Sundays in Spain and closed supermarkets). Last km before Luarca were tough. Arrived really late, already dark, and could only get a lousy pizza in town. There was also only an upper bunk bed left, which I quite dislike.

Day 7, Luarca to A Caridad, 32km

Much easier today, not many steep slopes. Night was crap. Girls giggling, orchestra of snorers, so I left at 6:40. That was good. 12km to breakfast, where I met a Canadian walking in style, staying in hotels (cheap in her opinion). Also good to walk with Angel, a fast walker from Valencia who I had met in Soto. In Navia, after 22km from departure, I had tortilla & aquarius!! Then another 10km over rural landscapes, always close to the sea. Arrived just in time to have lunch in a nearby restaurant, and that was a feast! Bonito steaw, codillo & requeijon con miel! Back in the lovely albergue La Xana. I washed all clothes, went to the supermarket & relaxed in the garden, under a lemon tree. Decided to leave a bag full of stuff in the albergue: Gill waterproof bag, tent, mattress, green trousers, yellow t-shirt, book, warm trousers, front light, penknife, and a few other small things (Ivan, the hospitalero, was quite friendly)...!!

Day 8 A Caridade to Vilela, 31,2km

Lighter today, as I left weight in the albergue. Much easier! Went fast to Ribadeo, trying to connect with a blablacar to go for my car. Didn't happen. Had a coffee in Tapia, and an aquarius on a cafe overlooking a wonderful beach. Rain before crossing to Galicia, misty over the ria! Had lunch in the same place as on August 1st - Madison - simple 11€ pilgrim menu in a tourist town where everyone seems to be eating pulpo and if it was Galician! After Ribadeo the camiño goes inland into rural Galicia, and quickly I arrived in a quiet albergue in the countryside. It has a pool, lots of flies and 7 pilgrims so far. There is a bar/restaurant also where I had some dinner (bit overpriced). Sandra and Angel were there, and we had a glass of 🍷

Day 9 Vilela to Mondoñedo, 31,5km

Same distance as yesterday, but tougher. Ups and downs all the time. Left at 7am...too much noise from the American lady who shouted in the middle of her sleep! Traumas for sure. Perhaps from his husband who seemed like a really strange man. After 12km, had a good breakfast and after another 9km bought some plasters for my blisters and visited the wonderful church of Lourenzá. Very nice and good stamp! Then it was tough to walk the last 9km to Mondoñedo. Just tired and with foot pain. Got to the municipal albergue, and just Angel and Stefan (US) were there. I am now in the restaurant Rincon, waiting for Ternera!!

Day 10 Mandonedo to Villalba, 35km

Tough ascent in the morning...really steep for 3km. Reminded me of Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. Breakfast after 12km, a beer after 22km....spoke to Bruno, a fast Frenchman my age, who started in Santander. After arriving in the albergue, and talk to Angel, I made a change of plans. Decided to continue to Santiago. Cancelled blablacar which was going to take me to Oviedo (was that a good idea?), and will get (hopefully) to Santiago on Monday. Will be in Oviedo on Tuesday lunchtime (bus). Albergue is wonderful. Best bed so far and wonderful sheets and pillow.

Day 11 Vilalba to Miraz, 35km

Left at 7am, still dark. Very fast walking. Stopped for coffee and napolitana (dry, not great), continued to Baamonde (coffee). Then supermarket, fast walking with Mario (a German walking from Berlin for the past 6 months!!) and Stefan. Beer with them (2) and literally ran to a donativo albergue, afraid of not having a place. Now in the albergue (left 20€). Usual chores: shower, wash, lunch, rest...grey most day, & rainy!! Visited a lovely church next to the albergue with the volunteers.

Day 12 Miraz to Sobrado dos Monxes, 26km

First day below 30km in a long time!! Beautiful camiño, mountainous. Only one café in a rural normal house. Strange place. Grey and rainy. Got to the monastery at 1:30pm. Got the menu del dia (lentils and trout, 1 litre bottle of wine [OMG]), and slept a bit, waiting for the 7pm sung mass...What a wonderful place, despite the obnoxious British priest who "welcomes" pilgrims!

Day 13 Sobrado dos Monxes to a Calle, 31km

Last night the highlight was the vispers, a sung mass. Beautiful place, lively ceremony. Reminded me of Ossera and Armentera! Today nice rural landscapes...a festivity in a village, and many pilgrims on the way to Miracules....friendly donkey and cat. Coffee and caracol pastry on the way, bocadillo in Arzua....spoke to Pádraic, an Irish lad with 71 years of age. Now in Ferreiros. Nice albergue with bar/restaurant. There's a good atmosphere!

Day 14 A Calle to Santiago, 32km

Last night there was a wonderful atmosphere in the albergue...great spirit! Today the stage is nothing special. Done it twice before. Walked with Angel, said goodbye to Bruno and after the usual performances at Obradoiro Square, got the Compostela. I am staying at the hostel Blanco (25€, normal for Santiago). It's nice, with towels and views to the cathedral! !1st time here, but a place to return...Had dinner with a few pilgrims from the last 6-7 days...and with Angel, Stefan and Tomas (a czech). We finished with a drink in a relatively quiet bar. My 16th camiño is over.....460km which I felt really tough! Mainly because my backpack was too heavy (tent and all), my boots reached 1200km (shouldn't walk more than 1000km) and that had an impact on my feet....the rest....well, camiños are always wonderful!

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