Nikon App To |VERIFIED| Download Photos

At Three Twenty Studio, we have all Canon gear. We shoot both photo and video with either a Canon 5d Mark IV or a Canon C100. That being said, there are occasions when we may have a second shooter with us that shoots with Nikon. For some Canon photographers this might be a little troublesome when it comes to editing and matching the Nikon photos to the Canon photos, but we have come up with a solution!

The workaround or solution that we have found is making a preset that mimics the look of our Canon edit. This required a good bit of tinkering and tweaking. Once we got it right, it made editing both Nikon and Canon flawlessly efficient. The Camera Faithful profile tends to have a bit more contrast, and the shadows tend to take on a reddish hue. With this in mind, the adjustments we make to Nikon photos goes as follows:

Nikon App To Download Photos

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Second, assuming that it is best not to remove them, how can I transfer photos from the camera via USB-C to my iPad? I connect them up but I'm not seeing the camera in "Files" which is where, ideally I would want the photos to go.

By default, at least on my iPad, the images go to the photos app. Using LR, you can also import to that app. Both of these are advantageous when traveling with access to fast internet as you will be backed up to the cloud. If you are using LR, you can set up your LR classic at home to download the images.

I have tried connecting my Z6 II to my iPad using a USB-C/USB-C cable. The only app on the iPad that sees the camera is Apple's Photos which I detest (not a very well written app). But I thought I could however use Photos as an intermediate location for the photos and then move them to Files for cloud upload. The problem is, as I shoot RAW+JPEG* what gets uploaded in Photos is two JPEG files. Not a RAW and a JPEG but two JPEGs. Another Apple Photos flaw apparently. If however, I shoot only RAW photos, when transferring to Photos I get one RAW file. But that's not how I shoot so, this is not a workable solution.

I will likely stick with what I've been doing which is, remove card, upload to my iPad Files app using a ProGrade dual (CFExpress/SD) card reader, and then I upload all photos to my Dropbox account. This works perfectly.

Well, if you put them in the Apple Photos app then yes, they'll propagate. I don't use Apple Photos as I don't like its implementation. I upload my photos (RAW and JPEG) to the Files app and then from their they go to Dropbox.

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The problem is as just mentioned when shooting in bright daylight - the photos are way underexposed, colors are not as they should be, details cannot be seen. In other conditions photos seem to be fine. I tried auto landscape mode, as well as manual modes with different settings for correct exposure (aperture, ISO, shutter speed), including different metering and white balance settings. The result is every time almost the same.

To minimize noise and maximize sharpness, maximize exposure (which is not the same thing as making your photos as bright as possible). Keep your ISO as low as possible (use Auto-ISO except in cases where you have a good reason not to), use the slowest shutter you can that doesn't result in motion blur, and the widest aperture that doesn't result in too shallow a depth of field or too much aberration blur.

I have a similar issue with 2 Sandisk Extreme PRO 170Mb/s 64GB SD cards. Sometimes it works, but often it downloadds and when I want to look at them via LR or finder, I can't see any photos. I can see them when importing form the 2nd card in mu D750 or D500. It doesn't always happen but often it does. Note when I tried to import via my company laptop, on MS, it worked.

I just shot some test RAW photos with my new Z8. iPhotos recognizes the camera and generates thumbnails just fine. But, all uploaded photos have black thumb nails and when I click to enlarge them the screen is white with no content. If I Select a photo and select "EDIT" i get a message that the "File type is not recognized." Screen shots enclosedAny thoughts? Thank you!

Actually, It turns out that I was only seeing the JPEG when I shot Raw+Jpeg. I just shot some RAW photos and, again, they load into Photos with no image. I can see the thumb nail but the main file shows nothing........I can load them into the Nikon app and then save as TIFFS and then put them in Photos but thats a painfully slow process. Any thoughts???

Usually cameras use filenames which gives them 4-digit numbering (some use 5 numbers), so you could in theory have 9999 photos in a single folder. However, cameras can break down these images in folders differently. Furthermore, some cameras let you control this using their Setup/Config menus:

On my Nikkon D5100 it puts 1000 photos in each directory. The problem, as mentioned above, is that when connecting to the PC from the camera, Windows Exploerer does not see the folders. I recently had over 2300 photos from one session. I only got the photos from the first one. I have a USB chip reader that supports a number of different chips. Using this, Explorer saw the three folders o the chip and I could copy them easily to my PC. This is easier than writing a script,

Hey, I've had my D5000 for a few years now and whilst its a great camera, I seem to suck at getting truly sharp images.

If you don't mind, take a look at the photo stream, (www.flickr.com/photos/samuska/ ) most of it im quite happy with (and more than a lot of it is likely due to me having no formal training what so ever and going on guess work and internet research!)

Anyway, having looked at some real great and sharp images in this group, im wondering if there's a Lens that can improve general image sharpness at all?

Im not really looking for anything in particular, be it telephoto, macro or prime so something all-rounder would be most helpful.

Anyone have any suggestions?

Originally posted at 8:13AM, 21 May 2013 PST(permalink)

Samuska edited this topic ages ago.

This is a good example - www.flickr.com/photos/samuska/6058768307/

I think its a great photo of a good friend of mine, however it lacks the real 'pop' of a really sharp image. I know I could always touch it up in photoshop but im 'that guy' who takes a bajillion photos and I dont have the time to edit that many!

Id quite like to get into B&W 'street' photography, especially people and skateboarding and would like something that could handle that - And I wish I could afford a decent fisheye but that wont be for a whiiiiiile!

Originally posted ages ago. (permalink)

Samuska edited this topic ages ago.

I prefer not to take the time to review the photos in the camera and also potentially delete a photo that I want to keep. I start with a clean card and carry extras. Cards are inexpensive, you could get a larger one and/or carry an extra.

Once the photos are transferred via USB cable to the computer, and you've confirmed the transfer was successful, simply use the camera menu to reformat the cards. Never have to remove the cards, never have to cull using the tiny rear camera screen, and always have cards that are fresh and ready for the next session. Piece of cake and foolproof. e24fc04721