Apple MacBooks with Thunderbolt 3 ports running macOS Catalina 10.15.5 or newer have a battery health management feature that can prevent the MacBook from charging to 100%. If your MacBook has this feature, turn it off before beginning calibration.

Figure 2: Full-discharge and full-charge flags. Calibration occurs by applying a full charge, discharge and charge. This is done in the equipment or with a battery analyzer as part of battery maintenance.


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Remember there are two different (but connected) systems at play, the battery management system, which monitors and controls the health of the battery, and the software user interface (and associated power control software), which reads data from the former to display an indication of battery charge status and level and respond to various flags (like shut down when the discharge flag is set).

If you are experiencing incorrect or inconsistent battery level, quick battery discharge, slow or erratic charging speeds, or sudden power off or rebooting, a battery calibration could correct the problem.


iOS 14.5 includes an update where the battery health reporting system will recalibrate maximum battery capacity* and peak performance capability on iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, and iPhone 11 Pro Max to address inaccurate estimates of battery health reporting for some users. Symptoms of this bug include unexpected battery drain behavior or, in a small number of instances, reduced peak performance capability. This inaccurate battery health reporting does not reflect an issue with actual battery health.

While the battery health reporting system is recalibrating, you will see a message in Settings > Battery > Battery Health. Recalibration of maximum capacity and peak performance capability happens during regular charge cycles, and this process might take a few weeks. The displayed maximum capacity percentage will not change during recalibration. Peak performance capability might be updated, but this might not be noticeable by most users. If a previous degraded battery message was displayed, this message will be removed after updating to iOS 14.5.

In a small number of instances, recalibration might not be successful and a new battery service message will appear. If this occurs, an Apple Authorized Service Provider can replace the battery free of charge to restore full performance and capacity. This does not indicate a safety issue and your battery can still be used.

* Maximum battery capacity is determined using a set of algorithms and measurements taken during use. Over time, these algorithms might be updated to provide the best estimate of maximum battery capacity.

Recalibration for maximum capacity and peak performance capability will happen over time with regular charge cycles. If the process is successful, the recalibration message will be removed and your maximum capacity percentage will be updated.

If a previous degraded battery message was displayed, this message will be removed after updating to iOS 14.5. Recalibration for maximum capacity and peak performance capability will happen over time with regular charge cycles. If the process is successful, the recalibration message will be removed and your maximum capacity percentage will be updated.

This message does not indicate a safety issue. Your battery can still be used. However, you might be experiencing more noticeable battery and performance issues. An Apple Authorized Service Provider can replace the battery free of charge to restore full performance and capacity. Learn more about getting service for your battery.

Because current battery health reporting might be inaccurate, we advise waiting until the recalibration process completes to contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider. If your device is covered by warranty, AppleCare+, or consumer law, service coverage for a battery with this issue will be temporarily extended to cover your recalibration period. If your iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, or iPhone 11 Pro Max recommends battery service after recalibration, contact Apple Support to learn more about service options. If your iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, or iPhone 11 Pro Max has any damage which impairs the ability to complete the repair, such as a cracked screen, that issue will need to be resolved prior to the service. In some cases, there may be a cost associated with the additional repair.

You can also contact Apple Support if you previously paid to service an out-of-warranty battery for your iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro, or iPhone 11 Pro Max after seeing a battery health degraded message or experiencing unexpected battery behavior.

I have provided the FAQ article below to serve as a guide on how to do the calibrations, although this is for our SmartUPS unit the procedure is almost the same. Regarding the load, you can plug a different load aside from the light bulb in order to reach the 30% requirement.

Hello, I have recently bought a Thinkpad X220, it works fine, but there's this weird issue. The battery goes down very quickly, after 1 hour it is at 10%, though, when it reaches 7%, it completely stops going down, and lasts for atleast another 30 minutes. I don't think the battery is actually at 7%, is there anything I can do to fix this? Thanks.

For Thinkpads you can use TLP, including a recalibration option. Depending on how old your battery is and whether it has 6 or 9 cells you should at least have 4 to 5 hours to work at normal load. My X220 has about 3 to 4 hours with about 65% capacity left (original battery from 2011).

This looks like a replacement battery and not an authentic, original ThinkPad battery. (I think the originals were made by LG). You need to install tp-smapi to view the cycle count. But it looks like the battery has a lot of dead cells already. The full design is 57720 but now you can only get 25130 as full. Also the charge is already 96% but that charge is only 43% capacity which reflects what the full energy says. 

I think it's just an old battery and this already looks like a replacement battery (you can't expect a laptop battery to last 10 years).

You can install acpi_call kernel module for recalibration as recommended but there's probably very little improvement that will take effect.

You can consider just getting a new battery and use this as a spare.

The explanation for this was that the battery must charge internal camera clock battery, and therefore gets depleted faster at first charge and possibly few subsequent, depending how the camera is used.

On the menu report you'll notice a graph with a bar going from 0 to 4, and an arrow pointing at the current position for your battery. The battery performance *will* decline over time, sometimes very dramatically. All my 2 years-old batteries have come to stage 2 or 3 so they are getting near the end of their useful life-span, and the ones currently at stage 3 behaves badly in cold weather (I'm living in Norway so low temperatures down to -20C are not uncommon in winter).

I've experienced once a battery recalibrating itself during actual shooting. The camera said the battery was nearly depleted with just 3% charge left after 10 shots, then the camera, entirely dead and non-responding for a while, suddenly came to life again and now reporting a 75% charge capacity. Concurrently, the progress bar went from stage 1 to stage 2.

The "Calibrate" light on the charger will flash when you first insert the battery if the battery is in need of calibration. This is also indicated in the battery status in one of the camera menu screens.

with my 3S batteries (16000 & 12000mAh) I have sucessfully used 10.5V as the failsafe threshold the last few weeks - although I have found that what triggers before the battery even reaches the 10.5V level nearly always is the mAh failsafe (which I set to 20% of the the battery capacity).

Does the battery I am using have an impact on the current calibration? E.g. if I switch between 2 different brand 3S 5200mah batteries or a 3S 5200 and a 3S 10,000, do I need to re-calibrate the current?

Sure, with the 1D series cameras, as well as the other "Pro" bodies, in the menu, you can pull up batter information. When the battery needs calibrating, there is a message indicating so. Hope this helps.Wayne

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This results in the battery percent in the indicator bar quickly becoming unreliable and that the phone usually has less power than I think it has. It could also mean, but I am not certain about this, that the phone believes it is fully charged before it actually is.

I am aware of discussions on this forum about different ways to recalibrate the battery charge by various lengthy processes involving turning the phone off, remove/reinsert the battery while phone connected to power, etc. My preferred way of doing this is simply turning the phone off, remove/reinsert battery and let it restart. After that my energy-full and energy-full-design always align perfectly.

If you often unplug and plug it back in while the battery is near 100%, you may end up with elevated energy-full value and the gauge believing that the battery has more charge than it actually has, so avoid doing that. Otherwise, the energy-full estimate should get more accurate with each charging cycle (accurate to the real battery capacity, not to energy-full-design).

which are fare away from making any sense. I have not taken out the battery since ages. And from time to time my L5 shuts down due to battery empty (because I felled into sleep). What is the best advice now to get energy-full to a reasonable value?

Charge the battery to full (until the red LED goes off), then turn the phone off, take the battery out for a few seconds and put it back in. Then let it discharge to 0 and charge it back to 100% afterwards. This should give the gauge enough rope to make its estimations better. ff782bc1db

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