As you can see my car is black. I uploaded my paint to trading paints and my teammates can see it but i can't see my own skin. This happens with some other skins from the community too. Addionally I see just half of the BMW paints on track when racing with others. I hope you can help me.
Hey guys! I have been painting for about 2 months now and really want to try out some of the paintings for which bob uses a black canvas. Does he use black gesso or black acrylic paint for this? And if he uses gesso, is acrylic paint a good alternative?
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Home plate is a mostly white slab, but it is bordered on all five sides by a thin black strip. Thus, a pitcher who is frequently hitting the corners of the plate for strikes and avoiding the white portion is said to be painting the black.
This is the World's blackest, mattest, light - trapping paint on the planet, like velvet in a bottle, your surface will be covered in a super flat void finish that gives a unique edge to any painting, sculpture or acme black hole.
Created by British artist Stuart Semple in responce to the claims by Vantablack scientists that artists were too poor and time consuming, this high quality, ultra pigmented Black 3.0 gives an almost identicle Vanta-esque finish without the toxicisity and can be applied just using a brush no fiddly spray booths or heating chambers.
The first images (iPhone) of test-painted aluminium blocks are captured outside on an overcast day at 90deg, ~45deg and ~15deg angles on a black cardboard base. You can see the Mars black is superior at low angles. The big surprise is in deep red/near IR. In the final image I half painted a black anodised M42 T-spacer. You can see the anodising is useless.
After I painted the inside of my hyperstar CPC 925 (f/2.3), I was surprised that shining a white light torch onto the calibration bolts hence onto the corrector plate (originals replaced by ss allen head bolts) did not wash out the image on camera (red light). EAA at f/2.3 appears to have improved contrast. The inside of the telescope tube certainly looks much darker than with the original paint.
hi I really understand what your trying to achieve ie flocking the inside of a sct cassagrain is an open debate there and also scrutiny it actually works in first place as there is no facts and figures to go by would it be worth dismantling an sct correcter plate without knowing any optical gain has been achieved I would say no.and feel the only way you will find out in the long term is to have two identical scopes side by side with each other one with flocking material or painted and one without.
To enhance the effectiveness of the black paint I use geometry. For example I would use sharp V threads on the ID of a tube. Like to see results similar to what was done to the black paint with geometry added.
visit-the-moon - Sennelier seem to be an ARTISTS PAINT producer specialising in oil paints with a high pigment content , and hardness. Some artists supplies shops here in NZ supply these paints. Macleod
Macleod, Yes, the paint was developed for artists, it is sold by quality art suppliers globally. You won't find it in the hardware store. Important point: this is a water-based acrylic paint. Don't use any oil-based paints, they are very very slow drying & are typically based on linseed oil (or similar oil) & turpentine. Here is an image of the 60 mL pack. It costs A$7.50 per pack, no doubt less in USA & Europe. It is also available in larger pack sizes.
Incidentally Sennelier has a strong technical background. They invented & developed the oil pastel medium with Pablo Picasso in 1948-1950. Most recently they have developed materials for other major artists including David Hockney, considered by many to be one of the greatest living painters. Of course their paints weren't developed for astronomy!
Stargazer193857 - I found the paint bonded well to anodised aluminium. It can bond to raw aluminium, but certainly better to a surface coated with spray-based metal primer. The paint spreads well & can be applied to give a thin coat - have a look at the image of the part-painted spacer I posted earlier. It is not a thick, gluggy, lumpy paint. I have used powder coating before - this is a much thinner coat than powder coating. I'll do a before & after micrometer measurement, let's see. I think the performance is in low angle light incidence situations, such as spiders, telescope tubes & baffles, rather than square on light absorption.
stargazer193857, sounds like you are going to check it out. The paint was designed to adhere to paper, canvas, wood etc, but for ATM purposes probably best to seal the wood and as you say apply a dark, ideally black primer. It is an expensive paint if you were covering a large surface area - it will go further if the surface is sealed. I have used Sennelier products for art purposes... but I have only looked at ATM application of 759 to metal and plastic surface. All my telescopes are steel or aluminium. It wouldn't matter much whether the primer was a matt or satin finish as long as there is good adhesion.
Mars Black is "opaque" but it is a very slightly transparent black. It sounds counter-intuitive that this would be a good paint for the interior of telescope tubes. However I painted it over existing black surfaces & observed that it was very dark when viewed at a low angle (incidence angle >75 deg) when facing towards the light source. I don't think it is the best paint at all where a square on black is required, say in a cinema room or as an eye-piece baffle shield in an open frame Newtonian. Just like anything you build, a combination of methods is probably best. However, I painted the inside of one of my plastic dew shields, now it looks black. The image below shows photos taken seconds apart of non-painted & painted Celestron dewshields in identical positions (Canon EOS 450D (IR Mod), 24mm lens, f/4.5, 1/10 sec, ISO800, on tripod), late afternoon. The black one is for my hyperstar - the other is just a spare.
Edgardo, that is an interesting idea. Is there a specific ratio that you used when mixing & does the finished product still have that annoying property of chalkboard paint of scuffing easily? Black toner formulations vary but the major component is very fine carbon black, milled to 10 microns or less.That is very fine! The powder is designed to be electrostatic & the polymers bond when heated so avoid warm water in cleanup.
I recently downloaded paint.net and everything seems to be working except the magic wand tool - Whenever I use the magic wand tool to remove a background from an image and delete it, the image background doesnt go away, but goes black! - I dont know if its meant to be like this, however Ive watched videos on how to remove a background on paint.net and they dont have an issue witht the black screen. Its really frustrating as I can use it to make any thumbnails, designs etc. Ive tried different versions of the software but nothing has changed. Please help!
What I mean is something like this: _rust%20fading%20to%20black.jpg , if you notice the bottom it's fading into black, but i would like to do this to pictures so it slowly faces into complete darkness, or any color really. thanks so much for your time paint experts
If it's not dark enough to suit you, do it once (the first time), deselect, then repeat the process again. Also, as he previously pointed out, ensure your primary color is black and the secondary color is totally transparent.
With chalk paint, you do not need to sand to prep, but I planned to use Silk Mineral paint this time, and that does require a good scuff sanding first. Plus, the finish on this piece was quite rough, so it really needed sanding anyway.
Whaaaat? No bright shiney skeletons on the shelves? (heeheeheehee)
This is gorgeous. I love armoisre and black is my favorite. We live in a log home, and the black just really shoes off the logs.
So feel free to gift that to me!
Christy,
I love everything about this hutch makeover. The finish of the paint is flawless!! The fabric is gorgeous, as is the hardware.
Funny dinner party! Those would scare me every time I passed by!
Hello, I read a lot of reviews, someone mentioned how black paint is durable someone how quickly gets scratched. So, these reports are a little bit confusing especially if I would order black because it looks awesome, stealthy, and save some weight. Win-win in my eyes. But I want this camera for a long time as same as I have MP I know, it is not comparable (almost mechanical camera versus electronic device), but still, I have to sell my kidney (almost) for M11, so I want to hold it as long as possible.
No issues whatsoever. I actually have come to prefer it to the standard black finish on previous Ms. It has some texture to it which adds grip. My impression is that the new finish is likely to be more durable than the previous versions. AFAIK, this issue was only raised for pre-production cameras, perhaps the finish was refined for production models. In any case, as per Photoworks, no scratches or marks of any kind in two months of use.
Anyone using the Visoflex 2? Do you have any problems with the Visoflex 2 creating marks and/or scratches at the hot shoe** or (even worse) at the top plate of the camera? I really love the lower weight, but I really don't like shiny marks or even silver scratches on a black camera. Therefore, I decided to buy a silver M10 last time... Currently, this is really holding me back buying a black M11. 2351a5e196
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