CULTIVATION

It seems to thrive in impossible places — even near the sea - in bad soil and dry areas. Seeds sprout readily in one or two weeks. Alternatively, one can plant a branch and within a week or two it will have established itself. It is often cut back year after year in fence rows and continues to thrive. Because of this, in order to keep an abundant supply of leaves, flowers and pods within easy reach, topping out is useful. At least once a year, one can cut the tree to three or four feet above the ground. It will readily sprout again and all the valuable products will remain within safe, easy reach. The tree responds well to mulch, water, and fertilizer, but the branches are brittle.

COOKING THE LEAVES

Of all parts of the tree, the leaves are most extensively used. The growing tips and young leaves are best. The leaves can be used any way you would use spinach. One easy way to cook them is this: Steam 2 cups freshly picked leaves for just a few minutes in one cup water, seasoned with an onion, butter and salt. Vary or add other seasons according to your taste. In India, leaves are used in vegetable curries, seasonings and in pickles

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COOKING THE PODS

When young, horseradish tree pods are edible whole, with a delicate flavor like asparagus. They can be used from the time they emerge from the flower cluster until they become too woody to snap easily (the largest ones usable in this way will probably be 12 to 15 inches long and 1/4 inch in diameter). At this stage, they can be prepared in many ways. Here are three:

1. Cut the pods into one-inch lengths. Add onion, butter, and salt. Boil for ten minutes or until tender Steam the pods without seasonings, and then marinade in a mixture of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, garlic, and parsley.

2. Steam the pods without seasonings, and then marinade in a mixture of oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, garlic, and parsley

3. An acceptable mock asparagus soup can be made by boiling the pods and onion until tender. Add milk, thicken, and season to taste.

COOKING THE PEAS

The seeds (peas) can be used from the time they begin to form until they begin to turn yellow and their shells begin to harden. Only experience can tell you at what stage to harvest the pods for their peas. To open the pod, take it in both hands and twist with your thumbnail; slit open the pod along the line that appears. Remove the peas with their soft winged shells intact and as much soft white flesh as you can by scraping the inside of the pod with the side of a spoon. Place the peas and flesh in a strainer and wash well to remove the sticky, bitter film that coats them. (Or better still; blanch them for a few minutes, then pour off the water before boiling again in fresh water).

Now they are ready to use in any recipe you would use for green peas. They can be boiled as they are or, seasoned with onion, butter and salt, much the same as the leaves and young pods. They can be cooked with rice as you would any bean. In India, the peas are prepared using this recipe:

12-15 horseradish tree pods

1 medium onion, diced

4 cups grated coconut

2 bouillon cubes

2 inches ginger root

4 tablespoons oil or bacon grease

1 clove garlic

2 eggs, hard-boiled

salt and pepper to taste

Blanch both peas and pods, drain. Remove milk from 2-1/2 cups grated coconut by squeezing water through it two or three times. Crush ginger root and garlic, save half for later. Mix peas, flesh, coconut milk, ginger root and garlic together with onion, bouillon cubes, oil, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cook until the peas are soft - about 20 minutes. Fry remaining half of crushed ginger root and garlic in 2 tablespoons of oil. Dice eggs. Add coconut, ginger, garlic and eggs to first mixture. Heat through.