Milk cartons
Drill
Seed starting soil
Water
Marker
Ruler
Duct Tape
Scissors and/or box cutter
1. Draw a line around the jugs 4 inches from the bottom.
*Tip - Make a 4 inch paper sleeve out that fits around the jugs for easy and quick measuring.
2. Drill about 9 quarter inch holes in the bottom of the jug.
3. Cut three sides of the jugs on the 4 inch line you drew. Do not cut the side with the handle.
4. Bend back the top of the jugs and fill with about 4 inches of soil.
5. Moisten soil. Let sit for a few minutes for water to drain.
6. Make about 16 half inch deep holes in the soil. Place seeds in soil. You can also sprinkle seeds on soil. Cover seeds with a little bit of soil.
7. Close the top of the container. Seal the container with duct tape.
8. Place the containers outside. Make sure the top of the milk jug is off.
Winter Sowing Milkweed in Jugs -Prepared by Randy Peterson
I recommend winter-sowing be done by early to mid- February
This is my own preferred method of starting milkweed plants. I have had a lot of success with seeds sprouting using this method, where planting in the ground for me has been a bit more ‘good luck’.
SUPPLIES:
Gallon milk jugs. I use the translucent ones that milk and distilled water are sold in. Not clear plastic. Not solid white like juice comes in.
I place about 8-12 seeds in each container (If they all come up in spring you will probably want to pull a couple out to avoid over crowding
Potting soil for Starting Seedlings. Don’t get a moisture control kind. I get my seedling soil from Steins in Green Bay in 8 Quart bags. Probably nothing special about Stein’s. I just stay with what has worked for me.
Duct tape
A drill with a ¼” drill bit
A box cutter or scissors to cut the jug.
If you are preparing them indoors, a tray to set the jugs in while you work so the water and soil don’t get all over your house.
Sharpie marker
Popsicle stick or something like that to label what kind of milkweed it is and stick in the soil
Ruler
DIRECTIONS FOR WINTER SOWING (and planting the seedlings in spring)
Wash out the jug so no milk or whatever is left.
Measure and make a mark 4 inches up all the way around from the bottom of the jug.
Cut along that line around 3 sides, leaving the 4th side as a hinge. (Don’t make the hinge be on a side where the jug handle is. It is just harder to close and tape up)
Drill 8-10 quarter inch holes spaced around on the bottom of the jug.
Fill the jug with about 3-3 ½ inches of soil.
Water the soil. Use a gentle sprinkler can or the sprayer from the kitchen sink.
Place 8-12 seeds on the soil in each jug. Space them out.
Press them lightly into the soil just a little bit. It is tricky because the seeds will stick to your fingers!
Sprinkle a little soil on top of the seeds so they are buried ¼ inch deep.
If you are planting two types of milkweed, you will want to label your jugs. Either write the variety on the jug or label a popsicle stick and stick it into the soil before you close it up.
Close the jug cover. Dry off the outside or the duct tape won’t stick when you do the next step.
Using duct tape, tape all the sides shut. I tear off 8-10 inch pieces of tape ahead of time and use one piece for each side, making each one go around onto the other side. Make sure it is taped up well and that there are no openings, but make sure you don’t tape up too high on the upper lid of the jug. Light needs to get in.
Leave the jug’s cover cap OFF
Set the jugs outside where they won’t blow over and where they will get sun, cold temperatures and most importantly, where snow and rain can get on them. THE SEEDS GET ALL THE MOISTURE THEY NEED THROUGH THE OPENING COVER HOLE.
The rest of these directions are for after the snow has melted and it is warmer outside.
When the weather has warmed up and before they sprout: This is step I do, though it was not in directions I originally followed: When I put my jugs outside the first year, to keep them together I placed them in the snow inside a child’s swimming pool. When the snow melted in April, I suddenly realized my jugs were standing in two inches of water! I quickly took them out, thinking I probably had ruined them by over saturating them. But they all came up! So now, especially if the weather has been dry, I purposely place them for an hour or so in the swimming pool filled with 3” of water and let them soak water up. I just do this once. I haven’t seen this as a step anywhere, and maybe they would do just fine without it, but it is what I do just because it didn’t seem to hurt, and mine have been so successful each year. But don’t leave them in water too long if you do it. Any pan could be used instead of a pool.
In the spring I keep checking through the holes for them to sprout. I leave the jug covered about a week after they sprout. I find common seedlings take longer to germinate. Don’t give up on them.
Gently pull off the tape and cut the cover all the way off.
Water as needed. Don’t let the soil get too dry or over saturated.
I let them grow to about 4-5” tall in the jugs. To plant the seedlings I cut down one side of the jug and gently pull out the whole piece of soil out. Gently pull pieces apart, trying to disturb the plants as little as possible. The roots hold the soil together well.
This is the way I plant them in the ground: (Some of you who are more experienced at gardening than I may have other better methods): I dig a hole about 6” deep. I place a little outdoor garden plant soil into the whole and form it up around the bottom and sides of the whole. I water the hole. Place the plant in, gently bring the soil in and add some to cover the remaining hole.
Water the milkweed daily until it is established.
Here is a link to the original directions I followed for winter-sowing. If my directions are hard to follow, you may find these work better, plus there are photos: