Water Safety

Fishing in a river can be a fun filled adventure but it also presents more safety concerns than fishing from shore or in a boat on a lake. The rivers current, slippery rocks, cold temperature, and fallen or overhanging trees, all can present dangerous obstacles to your safety. It is important that you become familiar with your watercraft and practice how to enter and exit it safely. Practicing this feat in a controlled warm water environment may help you perform it when it is needed during an emergency.

It is also important to know river rapids classification ratings and know your capabilities before you venture out on the water. While experience will allow you to handle bigger rapids in the future, it is important that you do not try to tackle big rapids while you're in a learning stage. Become comfortable with lower rated rapids before you venture out on higher rated one.

A personal flotation device (PFD) should be worn at all times, no matter how good of a swimmer you think you are. If you are thrown from your craft when going through some river rapids you may accidentally hit your head on a rock or one of your limbs may become lodged between some rocks. It is vital that you keep your head above water and be able to float to safety if you fall into the river.

When choosing a PFD for fishing from your canoe or kayak choose one that fits you well (one size does NOT fit all), does not hinder your movement, and is comfortable enough to be worn all day. Following these rules will help assure that you will indeed wear it all day and not take it off because it is uncomfortable.

In the States of Minnesota, Wisconsin, and Michigan, a readily accessible and wearable life jacket is required for each person onboard a boat. This law also applies to canoes, kayaks, stand-up paddleboards, paddleboats and waterfowl boats. Since you have to have it in your watercraft, why not just wear it so it just isn't taking up valuable space?

Fishing in moving water can create some dangerous hazards. It is important to gain paddling skills and know how to approach and conquer river rapids while angling.

If you wish to fish a specific area of a river and the current is too strong, you may want to consider beaching your craft and fishing from shore or wading the river, depending upon the river current and depth.

Another consideration that can be considered, if the river current is not too strong, is by deploying an anchor system to hold you in place. An option is to use a "river anchor" which typically is a set of heavy chains which is dragged along the river bottom. They may not stop your float down the river but they can slow it down and are less subjected to being snagged on rocks or trees on the river bottom which may capsize your craft.

If you use a typical anchor, it is advised that you utilize an anchor trolley system. The benefits of using an anchor trolley are:

An anchor trolley allows you to stay in one place and face the direction you want to face in the river.
Can be used to allow you to fish into the wind or river current.
Allows you more easily pull your anchor up
An anchor trolley system allows you to turn your boat around without having to take up your anchor.

However, a common mistake I have observed is anglers having a permanent connection from their craft to the anchor. Often they are utilizing a cable system that allows them to crank up the anchor. While this sounds like a great feature, it can be very dangerous. All anchor systems should be easily disconnected from the craft in a situation where the river current may start unexpectedly start pulling your downstream or cross ways in the river current. While cutting the anchor line is a potential way to get out of this type of situation, you may not always have ready access to a knife. It is far better to design a system that allows a quick release of your anchor. A float attached to the anchor line will allow you to retrieve your anchor when the danger is under control.

For illustrations of an anchor trolley system click here.

It is also important to know how to rig your anchor so you can retrieve it if it becomes snagged on the river bottom. Instead of having to cut the line and leave the anchor on the river bottom, there is a simple trick you can do to make the retrieval easier.

river rapids classifications

I have attempted to list areas of river rapids in the river float descriptions. It is vital that you are aware of the various classes of rapids you may encounter and use your paddling experience as a guide to know when you feel it is safe for you to run a set of rapids.

There are six categories, each referred to as a "Class" followed by a number. The scale is not linear, nor is it fixed. For instance, there can be difficult Class II, easy Class III, and so on. The Class of a river may (and usually does) change with the level of flow. Often a river or rapid will be given a numerical Class, and then a plus (+) or minus (-) to indicate if it is in the higher or lower end of the difficulty level. While a river section may be given an overall grading, it may contain sections above that grade, often noted as features, or conversely, it may contain sections of lower graded water as well. Details of portages may be given if these pose specific challenges.

A summary of river classifications as presented by the American Whitewater Association:

class i

Easy

Fast moving water with riffles and small waves. Few obstructions, all obvious and easily missed with little training. Risk to swimmers is slight; self-rescue is easy.

class ii

Novice

Straightforward rapids with wide, clear channels which are evident without scouting. Occasional maneuvering may be required, but rocks and medium-sized waves are easily avoided by trained paddlers. Swimmers are seldom injured and group assistance, while helpful, is seldom needed. Rapids that are at the upper end of this difficulty range are designated Class II+.

class iii

Intermediate

Rapids with moderate, irregular waves which may be difficult to avoid and which can swamp an open canoe or kayak. Complex maneuvers in fast current and good boat control in tight passages or around ledges are often required; large waves or strainers may be present but are easily avoided. Strong eddies and powerful current effects can be found, particularly on large-volume rivers. Scouting is advisable for inexperienced parties. Injuries while swimming are rare; self-rescue is usually easy but group assistance may be required to avoid long swims. Rapids that are at the lower or upper end of this difficulty range are designated Class III- or Class III+ respectively.

class iv

Advanced

Intense, powerful but predictable rapids requiring precise boat handling in turbulent water. Depending on the character of the river, it may feature large, unavoidable waves and holes or constricted passages demanding fast maneuvers under pressure. A fast, reliable eddy turn may be needed to initiate maneuvers, scout rapids, or rest. Rapids may require "must make" moves above dangerous hazards. Scouting may be necessary the first time down. Risk of injury to swimmers is moderate to high, and water conditions may make self-rescue difficult. Group assistance for rescue is often essential but requires practiced skills. For kayakers, a strong roll is highly recommended. Rapids that are at the lower or upper end of this difficulty range are designated Class IV- or Class IV+ respectively.

class v

Expert

Extremely long, obstructed, or very violent rapids which expose a paddler to added risk. Drops may contain large, unavoidable waves and holes or steep, congested chutes with complex, demanding routes. Rapids may continue for long distances between pools, demanding a high level of fitness. What eddies exist may be small, turbulent, or difficult to reach. At the high end of the scale, several of these factors may be combined. Scouting is recommended but may be difficult. Swims are dangerous, and rescue is often difficult even for experts. Proper equipment, extensive experience, and practiced rescue skills are essential.

Because of the large range of difficulty that exists beyond Class IV, Class V is an open-ended, multiple-level scale designated by class 5.0, 5.1, 5.2, etc. Each of these levels is an order of magnitude more difficult than the last. That is, going from Class 5.0 to Class 5.1 is a similar order of magnitude as increasing from Class IV to Class 5.0.

class vi

Extreme and Exploratory Rapids

Runs of this classification are rarely attempted and often exemplify the extremes of difficulty, unpredictability and danger. The consequences of errors are severe and rescue may be impossible. For teams of experts only, at favorable water levels, after close personal inspection and taking all precautions. After a Class VI rapid has been run many times, its rating may be changed to an appropriate Class 5.x rating.

Water Levels

The characteristics of a river can change remarkably as the water level falls or rises. As you may expect, a set of Class II rapids can become raging Class IV when the water is abnormally high following a heavy storms or during spring runoff. Conversely, a Class IV can turn into a easy float when the water level is low in the late summer. Even normally calm stretches can become turbulent and dangerous at flood stage, because the force of currents slammed this way and that by rocks and obstructions can create powerful and dangerous surface conditions.

An International Rating system has been devised to describe river flow. The classification for a specific river may change from season to season; the following letter designations are used to describe water level and rate of flow:

L, or Low. Below-normal levels for the river. Below-normal depth may interfere with good paddling. Shallows may turn into dry banks and low areas become muddy sandbars.
M, or Medium. Normal river flow. Medium water generally is used to describe good water for rivers with slight gradients and enough depth for passage on the steeper sections.
MH, or Medium High. Higher than normal. Faster flow on gentle gradients. The best flow for more difficult river sections with enough water for passage over low ledges and through rock gardens.
H, or High. Water is becoming difficult to handle. he river is well above normal stage. Canoeists may refer to the strong currents as "heavy." Small debris may come floating by, a warning that the river is dangerous and better left to skilled kayakers or canoeists whose craft are supported by flotation bags.
HH, or High-High. Very heavy water. Hydraulics are complex. Even slight gradients become treacherous. Debris frequent. Only for experts.
F, or Flood. Abnormally high water, overflowing the banks; current extremely violent; low-lying areas underwater. TV crews show up to shoot tape for the evening news. Not for any boaters except those with appropriate equipment on dangerous rescue missions.

The Minnesota DNR has a website and other links that posts up to date river levels and flows for the major water trails within the state.

Changing Conditions

A rating given to a river or rapid is a snapshot; it's based on the informed opinion of persons who've been there, usually over multiple seasons and in many different flows. Still, it may not capture the difficulty of the river or rapid in all seasons and all flows. What may be a Class II under normal conditions can be Class III during a high spring flood. Wood, strainers and other obstacles can definitely up the difficulty level.

Location

Remoteness of location significantly affects difficulty rating. A stretch that would be Class III+ if it were along a road might well qualify for Class IV or IV+ if it’s in the backcountry, far from needed outside help.

Weather

Cold water and rainy conditions up the hazard level of any water. Taking a swim or even getting and staying wet, in these conditions, exposes boaters to the danger of hypothermia Cold Water Protection & Hypothermia.

How experienced are you?

Paddlers, whether they are canoeists or kayakers, could also be rated based upon their paddling competence:

Class A - No experience. Describe one who has virtually no familiarity with canoes or kayaks or how to paddle.
Class B - Beginner. Is familiar with basic strokes and can handle a tandem canoe competently from the bow or stern in flat water; solo canoeist or kayaker is familiar with basic strokes.
Class C - Novice. Can handle more advanced whitewater strokes solo in a canoe or kayak, or in either bow or stern of a tandem canoe. Knows how to read water; can negotiate easy and regular rapids with assurance.
Class D - Intermediate. Can negotiate rapids requiring linked sequence of maneuvers; understands and can use eddy turns and basic bow-upstream techniques; is skilled in either bow or stern of a tandem canoe; can paddle Class II rapids in a solo canoe or kayak.
Class E - Expert. Has established ability to run difficult (Class III and Class IV) rapids in bow or stern of a tandem craft; can paddle solo in a properly equipped canoe or kayak; understands and can maneuver in heavy (Class H) water.
Class F - Leader. Is an expert canoeist or kayaker; possesses the experience, judgment, and training to lead a group of any degree of skill on any navigable waterway and in the wilderness.

If you are ever in doubt about your own abilities to properly handle a set of rapids, either properly portage around them (if feasible) or don't float the river.

Should you paddle that river?

Three elements must always be evaluated before you are competent to judge your ability to handle a river: (1) your ability; (2) the expected class of rapids; and (3) the river flow level. You should be able to decide whether you should paddle an unknown 10-mile stretch of the Foamy River when a friend tells you:

"Oh, the first couple of miles are sort of flat, but then you'll run into four or five sets of Class II rapids just after you pass the bridge on Highway 8. There's a large rock garden after the river swings past the only island you'll find on your trip. After that it's clear sailing, but the river normally runs pretty fast for the last 3 miles. Of course, you gotta keep in mind we've had a lot of rain the past couple of weeks, and I know before that the river was running maybe a little below Medium, but it could be about Medium-High right now. If it is, you can run a set of ledges to the right of the island. Otherwise, stick to the left. And that rock garden might be a Class III set of rapids, a helluva lot of fun! You'll just have to do a lot of maneuvering."

A helluva lot of fun is right, that is, if you have the experience to handle this kind of water.

The moral: Know what to expect from a technical description of a river and from your own skill at the class of rapids and expected water level. Don't put yourself and others at risk. If in doubt, personally inspect the river first, or don't run it.

River outfitters are an excellent sources of information about the rivers they service and usually are quick to warn customers about any unusual situations. When the waters are dangerous because of high levels or unusual cold temperatures, most outfitters will cancel all rentals. The better ones will give out rain checks. Even if you have your own canoe or kayak, outfitters will be as ready to warn you about dangerous conditions as they are their own customers.

re-entering a tipped over kayak

If you fish from a sit-on or sit-in kayak it is very important that you know how, and practice, re-entering a tipped over kayak. River fishing can present dangers and you are more vulnerable to tipping over while fishing on a river compared to fishing on a lake. Watch the video below for some tips on re-entering a kayak.