(Intake VVT oil control valve/solenoid circuit fault on the cylinder-1 bank)
Below is a practical, step-by-step workflow you can use on most OBD-II engines with VVT. It covers symptoms, likely causes, electrical and mechanical tests, pass/fail criteria, and verification.
The ECM/PCM detected an electrical fault (open/short/no control) in the intake camshaft oil control valve (OCV/VVT solenoid) circuit on Bank 1 (the side of cylinder 1).
Check Engine Light, P0010 stored (sometimes with P0011/P0012)
Rough idle, hesitation, reduced power, poor fuel economy
Hard start or stalling (less common)
Engine oil issues: low level, wrong viscosity, dirty/sludged oil blocking the OCV screen
OCV/VVT solenoid failure: internal open/short, stuck pintle
Wiring/connector faults: rubbed-through harness, corroded pins, poor ground/power feed
ECM/PCM driver fault (less common; check TSBs before replacing)
Mechanical VVT problems: stuck cam phaser, timing chain stretch, low oil pressure
Scan tool with live data & bi-directional controls (can command VVT)
Digital multimeter (DMM) & test light
Basic hand tools; pick for connector inspection
Oil pressure gauge (if mechanical checks required)
Optional: oscilloscope for cam/crank correlation
Work on a cool engine when unplugging sensors/solenoids.
Use correct oil grade (per vehicle spec).
Battery voltage >12.4V for testing.
Pull freeze-frame data and note RPM, ECT, load.
Check for related codes (P0011/P0012, oil pressure codes, misfire codes). Address obvious oil pressure or powertrain issues first.
Clear codes and see if P0010 returns immediately (KOEO/KOER) or only during drive.
Verify oil level & condition; correct level, replace oil & filter if overdue or sludged.
Inspect OCV/VVT solenoid location (usually on the cylinder head, intake side, Bank 1).
Check connector & harness: broken tabs, pulled pins, corrosion, oil wicking. Perform a wiggle test while watching the scan tool for changes.
Most intake OCVs are 2-pin: one pin is B+ (12V) with key on, the other is ECM-controlled ground (PWM). Some systems invert this, so identify with a wiring diagram if available.
3.1 Power feed test (KOEO)
Back-probe the OCV connector: one terminal should show ~battery voltage with key ON.
No B+? Check the corresponding fuse/relay, shared circuits, and upstream wiring.
3.2 Solenoid coil resistance (Key OFF, connector unplugged)
Measure OCV resistance across the two pins.
Typical healthy range is often ~6–14 Ω (varies by make).
Open (OL/infinite) or very low (<2–3 Ω) = replace the OCV.
3.3 Control/driver check (KOER, commanded)
Use scan tool to command the intake OCV ON (vary duty cycle if possible).
With the OCV plugged in, back-probe the control wire: you should see a pulsed voltage (average often 1–9 V depending on duty cycle).
Alternatively, connect a test light from B+ to the ECM control wire: the light should pulse when commanded.
No pulse but good B+ and good coil → suspect wiring to ECM or ECM driver.
If pulse exists but no cam response, continue to functional/mechanical tests.
3.4 Harness integrity
Key OFF, unplug OCV and ECM. Check continuity from OCV control pin to ECM pin; should be <1 Ω and no short to ground or B+. Repair any opens/shorts.
Perform a wiggle test while measuring continuity to uncover intermittent breaks.
4.1 Command test (best with engine idling & warm)
Command the intake cam advance via scan tool. Monitor “Desired/Target” vs “Actual” cam angle PIDs.
You should see Actual move toward Desired (a few to ~25° depending on engine).
No movement = suspect a stuck OCV, blocked screen, low oil pressure, or a stuck phaser.
4.2 Physical/cleaning check
Remove the OCV. Inspect and clean the mesh screen (if equipped). Look for sludge/metal.
Bench test the OCV briefly with fused 12V/ground: you should feel/hear a crisp click and see the pintle move.
No click or weak motion → replace the OCV.
5.1 Oil pressure test
Verify oil pressure at hot idle and 2–3k RPM per spec. Low pressure can prevent VVT operation and set P0010/P0011.
5.2 Timing & phaser function
Compare cam/crank correlation (scope if available).
If noise/wear or correlation off, inspect timing chain, guides, tensioner, and cam phaser for sticking/binding.
If B+ feed OK, OCV coil OK, harness OK, command absent, and ECM powers/grounds are good, the ECM driver may be faulty.
Check TSBs/calibration updates before replacing the ECM.
Engine oil & filter service with correct viscosity
Replace OCV/VVT solenoid (and clean/replace its screen)
Repair wiring/connectors (broken wires near the solenoid are common)
Address low oil pressure (pickup screen, pump, sludge)
Repair timing/phaser issues (chain, guides, stuck phaser)
ECM update or replacement (rare; verify thoroughly first)
Clear codes. Warm engine to operating temp.
From idle, perform 2–3 light-to-moderate accelerations to ~2500–3500 RPM and let it coast/idle.
Watch Desired vs Actual Intake Cam Angle—they should follow.
Re-scan: No pending P0010 after a short drive and a restart is a good sign.
Check oil level/quality → correct if bad.
Visual: connector/harness → repair if damaged.
B+ at OCV (KOEO)? If no → fuse/power feed.
OCV coil 6–14 Ω? If bad → replace OCV.
Command OCV → PWM present? If no → harness/ECM driver.
PWM OK but no angle change → clean/replace OCV → check oil pressure → check phaser/timing.
If all above good → consider ECM/TSB.
